makeup – base makeup – primer/concealer

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 3)

by PJ on Wednesday, March 4, 2009

in _Japanese Base Makeup Week, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

Part 3: Which one is my shade?

(Shiseido Maquillage Lasting Powdery UV)
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/mq)
I am often asked about choosing the right foundation shade from a Japanese brand. One question that comes up the most is “What is the difference between Ochre shades and Beige Ochre shades?” If you have wondered about the same thing, I hope this part of the series will help you a little.

Many major Japanese foundation lines categorize their shades into three groups:

– Neutral Ochre (OC) shades
– Yellow-toned Beige Ochre (BO) shades
– Pink-toned Pink Ochre (PO) shades

(Notice that some brands don’t carry PO shades.)

Sometimes the shade name can vary. (Coffret D’Or’s pink-toned shades are called Soft Ochre shades.) But, on a typical shade chart, neutral shades are usually in the middle, with pink-toned shades on the left and yellow-toned shades on the right. Below is the shade chart for Coffret D’Or’s Lasting Power Pact UV:

(shade chart for Coffret D’Or Lasting Power Pact UV)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

In the shade chart for all the Sofina Primavista foundations (below), Ochre 05 is marked as the “standard shade”, which is the shade that suits most people of East-Asian descent. This happens to be the shade I would usually go for, as the second lightest Ochre shade usually suits me quite well.

(shade chart for all Primavista foundations)
(image from www.sofina.com/jp/primavista)

If you are of East-Asian descent and you have never tried a foundation from Japanese brand, then I would recommend trying an Ochre shade, which is likely to suit you reasonably well. Also, once you know what an Ochre (neutral) shade looks on you, it is slightly easier to know what to expect if you decide to try a yellow-toned or pink-toned shade.

(Since most Japanese makeup lines are only sold in Japan or in East/ Southeast Asia, the foundation shades are not made to suit a wider range of complexions. If you are of Caucasian descent, then you can probably find Japanese foundation shades that suit you. If you are of Latina or Afro-Caribbean descent, then most Japanese foundations might be too light for you. But I have had good feedback from readers of Afro-Caribbean descent on Japanese loose powder products, which are usually translucent and can work for most complexions.)

However, not all Japanese foundation shades are categorized like what you see above. Other brands use a linear presentation of the shades and the shade names don’t suggest their undertone. Below is Paul & Joe’s Protective Fluid Foundation N:

(Paul & Joe Protective Fluid Foundation N)
(image from www.paul-joe-beaute.com)

Overall it can be a lot trickier to tell which shade would suit you the most. In this case, apart from weeding out shades that might be too light/dark for you, try to compare the swatches in terms of yellow/pink undertones.

(If I have to pick a shade only by looking at the swatches here, I would first eliminate the two lightest shades, 10 and 20. I tend to avoid peachy/pink-toned shades, and 30 looks like a shade that might work for me as it looks slightly more yellow-toned than the neighboring shades.)

Having to choose a foundation shade on-line can be very difficult. (I can occasionally choose the wrong shade even when I can see all the shades in person…) But once you have some experience, things will get a lot easier.

(Sometimes it might be worth learning to recognize the Japanese characters for the three shade groups. Please refer to the Primavista shade chart for the characters (those printed within the color swatches). The names happen to be the same ones used by Maquillage, so you will be able to make more sense of the shades you see for Maquillage’s Lasting Powdery UV at the top of this post.)

Are you ready for some on-line browsing? Tomorrow I will talk about some popular Japanese base makeup lines.

Related posts:

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Foundation

Majolica Majorca Skin Remake Compact

Japanese Base Makeup Week Part 1 & Part 2

{ 22 comments }

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 2)

by PJ on Tuesday, March 3, 2009

in _Japanese Base Makeup Week, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

Part 2: When are they coming out?

(Sofina Primavista’s spring/summer 2009
base makeup lineup)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/primavista)

Partly due to the speed of development in Japanese base makeup (and partly due to marketing tactics), the frequency in which a brand’s base makeup products get updated is a lot higher than that of most western brands.

Many major Japanese beauty brands release two base makeup collections a year. Spring/summer releases are usually in March and April, and fall/winter releases are usually in September and October. (They are more or less released two months after the seasonal point makeup collections are available.)

The size of the collection varies. Sometimes there are just a couple of items (perhaps a new foundation and a primer), and sometimes there can be a major collection revamp.

Very often, when a new product is launched, the existing equivelant will be discontinued. This means that a Japanese base makeup product can sometimes only be available for 12 months. (This is especially the case with some department store brands.) For example, during the Raycious era (2000 – 2007), a new powder foundation was released every March and the previous version would be discontinued. Not all the products are updated at this rate, but many do get revamped about every other year.

So, on the whole, every six months, a base makeup collection goes through an update, and possibly a few products are phased out. (One obvious exception would be a new base make range whose lineup is still growing, like Primavista.) My suggestion is that, if you discover a Japanese base makeup product that you can’t live without, consider picking up some extras. (The next version might not suit you equally.)

There are some general differences between spring/summer and fall/winter releases. Spring/summer releases tend to have higher SPF and PA. They are often more sweat-resistant and are better at sebum-control, and the finish is often slightly more matte. Sometimes, the coverage is more on the natural side.

Fall/winter releases usually have a more emollient texture. The foundations sometimes have more coverage, and the finish is more luminous. The primers tend to be for further moisturizing the skin.

It can be quite useful to know in which season a product (particularly a foundation) is released. In Japan, there is quite a big temperature difference between summer and winter. If you have combination or oily skin and you happen to live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate, you probably don’t need a very emollient cream foundation (even though it might be a best seller in Japan.)

(Though the choice of a powder foundation or a liquid/cream foundation is often a matter of preference, I tend to suggest powder foundations for people with combination or oily skin. I think those with normal or drier skin do have more choices. Liquid/cream foundations would generally work fine, and there are some powder foundations with a very smooth and velvety texture that can work very well on dry skin even without a primer.)

Apart from regularly checking the official websites of Japanese beauty brands, Japanese beauty magazines offer great editorial content on new base makeup releases. Biteki runs a major base makeup feature twice a year (usually in the May and October issues). Voce’s popular monthly feature, “Voce Experiment” regularly tests out the latest foundations. Even if you don’t read Japanese, these features are usually abundant in photos of new products.

Tomorrow, I will touch upon the choice of foundation shade.

Related posts:

SUQQU Base Makeup Kit

Esprique Precious Spring/Summer 2009 Base Makeup Collection

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 1)

{ 6 comments }

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 1)

by PJ on Monday, March 2, 2009

in _Japanese Base Makeup Week, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

Part 1: Why Japanese?

(from Kanebo Coffret d’Or via YouTube)
.

Many years ago, I read an article on Japanese base makeup, which mentioned that the technologies in Japan involved in producing base makeup were about a decade ahead of those of most western brands. While it is not easy to prove this (and whether it is still true today), I do feel that Japanese base makeup items are constantly out-doing their western counterparts.

It seems that we can draw inferences from the cultural side of things. I have often heard that, if one can only choose to wear one makeup item for the day, a western consumer is likely to choose a mascara (or an eyeliner). On the other hand, a Japanese consumer would go for a foundation. (It can be a sweeping generalization, but I do find some truth in it.)

From the articles written by Kaoru Saito, a Japanese beauty expert, it seems that Japanese people perceive having shine and open pores in public as something impolite. Having a fresh and impeccable complexion, free from shine and open pores, seems to be part of the social etiquette. (Maybe this is why there are a lot more products (mainly primers) that tackle these two issues in Japanese beauty brands.)

In this case, it is the consumers’ needs that drive product research and innovation, and the result is products that work better.

I have oily skin and almost always use a powder foundation, and I think I probably want quite a lot from it. I want it to have a fair amount of coverage but to still look natural. I want it to cancel out mild redness, conceal pores, control sebum and last throughout the day. The powder should have a smooth texture, and the finish should be predominantly matte.

Generally, I find that Japanese foundations cancel out mild redness and conceal pores considerably more effectively than western ones. Also, the foundations I have tried that have a good sebum-control efficacy are all from Japanese lines. So, based on personal experience, I’d say that Japanese base makeup products generally perform a lot better.

(I have less experience with liquid/cream foundations. If you have any observation on how Japanese products fare with western ones, please do let me know your thoughts.)

In the next few days, I will talk briefly about the rhythm of product releases in Japanese base makeup, how to choose the right shade, some Japanese beauty brands that are particularly known for base makeup, and some of my personal favorites and recommendations. Do come back!

(The ad on top of this post is the TV ad for Coffret D’Or’s latest powder foundation, Lasting Power Pact UV. It was officially out on March 1st and is something I am interested in trying.)

.

Continue reading the series:

Part 2: When are they coming out?

Part 3: Which one is my shade?

Part 4: Which brand shall I look into?

Part 5: My Favorites (& Yours)

.

Related posts:

Western vs. Japanese…Who’s Winning?

All About Japanese Cosmetics

“Japanese Brand Profile” Series

{ 12 comments }

Coming Up: Japanese Base Makeup Week

by PJ on Friday, February 20, 2009

in all about Japanese cosmetics, announcement, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

To me, one of the most fascinating aspects of Japanese cosmetics is the generally outstanding quality of the base makeup*.

In the first week of March, I will be posting five articles on Japanese base makeup. These posts are largely based on the questions that I have often been asked in the past two years by readers new to or interested in Japanese makeup. I hope these articles will be helpful to some of you as well as any future reader who might have similar questions.

The first article will go up on Monday March 2nd. If you have any question on Japanese base makeup or suggestions on what you would like to see covered, please feel free to leave a comment or send me an e-mail.

Thank you very much, and stay tuned!

* In Japan, “base makeup” (or “base make”) refers to items applied before any color is added. They include primers, concealers, foundations, highlighting/contouring items, and loose/pressed powder. With some Japanese brands, they can also include delicately pigmented blushers.

Items featured in the photo:

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Foundation

Paul & Joe Light Cream Foundation

Anna Sui Fluid Foundation

{ 10 comments }

Mineral Makup Review: Alima Cosmetics

by PJ on Friday, October 10, 2008

in makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, makeup - blusher, makeup - eyeshadow, mineral makeup

(Clockwise from top:
Color Balancing Powder in Buttercup,
Satin Finishing Powder in Keiko,
Satin Matte Blush in Tulip,
Pearluster Eyeshadow in Taupe
Luminous Shimmer Eyeshadow in Aubergine)


Among so many mineral makeup brands that have been trying to be part of the mineral movement, Alima is one of those that seem to have been noticed by many. Today I am reviewing its items for face, cheeks, and eyes.

– Color Balancing Powder in Buttercup

It is supposed to work as a primer and is applied before the (mineral) foundation. It is available in tinted yellow, lavender, pink, and green. Buttercup is the tinted-yellow one, and I’ve tried applying it as a primer before my ZA Two-Way Foundation. The powder does have a little bit of coverage and evens out the complexion to some extend, which means my foundation does not have to work that hard. However, like many mineral items for the face, it can dry out my skin, which I can feel after I take my makeup off in the evening. I prefer using it as a setting powder after my foundation. The matte finish helps control the shine although it does not happen to have any noticeable pore coverage.

– Satin Finishing Powder in Keiko

This is a fairly decent setting powder with a very softly luminous finish that doesn’t look shimmery. It is less matte and has less coverage than Color Balancing Powder but it has slightly more pore coverage. Keiko will suit light complexions.

– Satin Matte Blush in Tulip

Tulip is another item that will suit light complexions. It is nicely moderately pigmented, unlike some other mineral blushers which are too densely pigmented and are difficult to work with. The finish looks very natural, but I think it might look ashy on darker skin tones.

– Pearluster Eyeshadow in Taupe

Among all the mineral makeup items I have tried, I tend to like eyeshadows more than anything else. The two Alima eyeshadows I’ve tried continue the postive experience. (On the other hand, I think mineral foundations still have a lot of room for improvement in many respects.) Taupe has a very pearly and almost metallic shimmer. I usually wouldn’t go for such a finish, but, since this shade goes on only slightly darker than my skin tone without looking either too ashy/greyish or too bronze, the very pearly finish actually works fine for me. As a very subtle shading color, it gently adds depth to as well as brightens up my eyes.

– Luminous Shimmer Eyeshadow in Aubergine

Aubergine is a deep violet that works well as a lining shade and it can also be used to create an intense smoky-eye look. It is quite shimmery but noticeably less pearly/metallic than Taupe, which I will take to be the difference between the two eyeshadow ranges. Some violet shades can go greyish in hours, but I am relatively pleased with how Aubergine’s color and shimmery finish last.

Overall, I think the eyeshadows are good items to try if you are interested in testing out the brand. The good things about Alima’s on-line shop are that small samples are available for purchase and that the color swatches seem fairly accurate (based on the items reviewed above). Also, you can check the ingredient lists of all the products, which is particularly useful if you have very sensitive skin.

Related Posts:

My “Mineral Makeup” category

ck Calvin Klein Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

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The New Thierry Mugler Makeup Line – A Guest Review by Lynn Chrisman

by PJ on Sunday, June 1, 2008

in -Thierry Mugler, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, makeup - mascara

Some of you might have heard about or seen the new makeup line by Thierry Mugler. I have not seen it in person myself, and today I am excited to present a guest review by my friend Lynn, who has tried out some of the products.

Hope you will enjoy this review!

Special Report from New York—Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes

Owned by Clarins, the new Thierry Mugler cosmetic collection is called The Art of Metamorphosis: A Line of Make Up. In the United States, it is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and online at http://boutique.thierrymugler.com. Bloomingdales is also expected to carry the line. I am going to share my impressions of the products I have been using lately: Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. I was interested to note that the products are made in different countries. Bleu Glacis comes from Japan, the lipgloss from Italy, and the lash gloss is made in Germany.

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer,
“Disguise with ice and light”

I became curious about this new line after reading an announcement about the line in a Fashion-Week edition of Women’s Wear Daily, but the real motivator to track it down was a paragraph in Allure about Bleu Glacis Cooling-Effect Concealer ($45 USD for 11 grams). It is unlike any concealer I have ever used—with a spongy, bouncy texture, and cooling sensation on the skin. The first time I applied it was on a nothing-on-my-face day, and it melded with my skin without creasing—almost like a waterproof product with a soft, matte finish. I find this remarkable since it is so watery and wet. When I am doing full make-up, I use Bleu Glacis on top of Clarins Perfecting Touch Primer, which is applied over Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream. It is so effective at luminizing the undereye area that I find myself using fewer products, and it does not crease or fade for hours. Since I have some fine lines, I just redistribute if I see a little crease. Bleu Glacis comes with a thin sponge applicator, but I have been comfortable applying it with my fingers. Most days, I just brush on a bit of Bobbi Brown Eye Brightener to blend the Bleu with my complexion, but I will be trying out Teint Glacis, which is a foundation that is also a cooling-effect product. For me, Bleu Glacis is the Product of the Year—so far.

Dee, a sales associate representing the line at Saks, told me that Bleu Glacis worked beautifully for a woman with rosacea and darker skin. For her, it was more of a colour correcting layer to be followed by foundation. Dee also mentioned that Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas foundation has a similar texture, but very different properties. On my second visit to the Thierry Mugler outpost in Saks, I saw a makeup artist applying Bleu Glacis and Teint Glacis to a young woman with caramel-coloured skin, and the effect was flawless and stunning. She said “Wow!” when she saw herself, and remarked that she had not looked so well-rested in a long time.

Thierry Mugler Lip Lacker, Bleu Effect Plexigloss,
“Liquid Crystal Hologram”

Another product I purchased is Blue Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker ($40 USD). It is very a lightweight and moisturizing gloss without any stickiness, and reminds me of liquid opals. Yes, liquid opals! How did they do that? I find myself just gazing at the beauty of the product wand sometimes and daydreaming about its inner light…chances are that it will need to be moved into another room if I want to get any work done today. The applicator is the same type of flexible spatula used in many Japanese lipglosses. I wore it alone as a test for lasting power, and it held up for about four hours on a warm day. My natural lipcolour is quite red and Bleu Effect looks like an intense translucent violet until I blend and distribute the colour to a subtle sheen. When used as a top coat over a darker colour, the effect can be intense and multidimensional. The lipgloss has a mild honey-flower fragrance, but no taste. At Saks, I saw the other two glosses from the collection—the Reflection Effects in Pink and Coral have more shimmer and a holographic quality.

Thierry Mugler Vinyl Gloss for Lashes,
“A new beauty ritual for vinyl shine”

Vinyl Gloss for Lashes ($49.00 USD) is a lightweight, very liquid formula that is meant to be painted on the lashes and layered. It provides delicate coverage with nice lengthening. I have found the liquid formula long-lasting and very black. The small brush, in my opinion, is not easy to maneuver, and needs to be wiped off very carefully to avoid drips and clumps. I think that an applicator like the MAC-Mascara-Fan brush would be amazing with this formula. (For people who may have issues with lashes sticking together, Mascara Fan beautifully separates the lashes before the mascara dries. I am a devoted MAC-Mascara-Fan fan.)

In October 2008, 7 shades of lipstick called “Rouge Unique, The ultimate pigment explosion” will be introduced. In a tiny printed swatch on a brochure I was given with my purchases, I see what seems to be a lavender-lilac shade called Fantasy. Do I hear applause, PJ? Also in October, a new mascara called “Flash on Lashes, Spectacular lash mascara” will join Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. Mousse Foundation, “The ultimate pleasure in foundation” will be introduced in December 2008. According to Jason, another Thierry Mugler sales associate, over fifty new products will be introduced to the line this Fall. As for me, I’ll be spending this summer cleaning out my cabinets to make way for those tempting new lipsticks, conjuring Glacis Powder and Liquid Opal Nail Varnish while keeping cool under a lovely Bleu Glacis veil.

Special thanks to PJ for publishing this review and encouraging lilac-shadowed blue lipgloss lovers everywhere!

Lynnderella

{ 14 comments }

SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy & Brightup

by PJ on Thursday, March 13, 2008

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, stash focus

(samples of SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy (left)
& Makeup Base Brightup)
SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy and Makeup Base Brightup are part of SUQQU’s Fall 2007 base makeup lineup.

For me, they are very welcome additions, since SUQQU’s then only primer, simply called Makeup Base, is loaded with alcohol and I simply wouldn’t put it on my face.

According to the SUQQU website and the counter staff, Makeup Base Creamy is designed to be used before SUQQU’s (cream) Foundation and Makeup Base Brightup is used before Powder Foundation Glow. For me, I have been trying out these two primers under my usual Shiseido ZA Two-Way Foundation (which I will review later this month.)

(SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy)
(image from www.suqqu.com)

Makeup Base Creamy has a light cream texture. It has a nice slip and goes on very easily. Unlike most primers, which impart luminosity and/or carry pigments to even out the skin-tone, this primer seems to disappear into the skin as it goes on more or less transparent and without any visible shimmer.

However, after application, the skin feels very moisturized and well-conditioned and is ready for all the powdering action. My powder foundation goes on more smoothly, and, more importantly, it helps the foundation last a lot longer.

As it has relatively little efficacy in concealing pores and it doesn’t really control shine, I position it as a skin-conditioning primer that helps the foundation stay fresh for longer.

(SUQQU Makeup Base Brightup)
(image from www.suqqu.com)

Compared with Makeup Base Creamy, Makeup Base Brightup has a creamier consistency. It also has some subtle shimmer to add luminosity and brightness. (I can understand why this is marketed as a primer for a powder foundation, since the powder needs something to stick to.)

Having said that, the two share most traits in terms of their performances. Again, Makeup Base Brightup successfully helps the foundation last longer.

Overall, I prefer Makeup Base Creamy, since the texture is lighter and it has no shimmer. It suits my oily skin better and it is more in tune with the matte finish I want from my foundation.

Note that neither of the two primers has any SPF.

If you have a powder foundation that is spot-on for your skin-tone but your skin is often too dry for a powder formula to wear well, then either of these two primers could be worth considering.

[I haven’t checked the outer packaging of full-size products to see if these two primers contain alcohol. But they don’t smell of alcohol or irritate my skin. Even if they do contain alcohol, the portion should be relatively minimal.]

Related Posts on Primers:

– Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N

– Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Veil UV & Lunasol Smoothing Makeup Base

{ 6 comments }

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

by PJ on Tuesday, March 4, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2007 Spring, 2008 Spring, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, stash focus

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Pack UV
& Lunasol Skin Fusing Powder Foundation)

After my first “foundation face-off” post (SUQQU vs. Chanel), some readers were wondering if I would do more. So here is another one, focusing on Lunasol’s current powder foundation, Skin Fusing Powder Foundation (referred to as “Lunasol” below), and Coffret D’Or’s debut powder foundation, Beauty Lasting Pack UV (referred to as “Coffret D’Or” below).

I have also tried the matching primers. I will review how the primers work with the foundations later on. The following comparison is based on the foundations worn without the primers (and right after my Olay daytime moisturizer/sunscreen).

Basics

– Lunasol: SPF 20 PA ++, 6 shades, released in spring 2007
– Coffret D’Or: SPF 24 PA ++, 7 shades, released in spring 2008 (March 1st)

Finish

Lunasol gives a luminous and almost glowy finish, while Coffret D’Or has a predominantly matte finish with subtle luminosity. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Lunasol feels very pleasingly soft and velvety, while Coffret D’Or is slightly drier (but not chalky).

Coverage

Lunasol gives a very good above-medium coverage and successfully covers minor imperfections and redness. Coffret D’Or has a slightly below-medium coverage. In terms of how the coverage maintains throughout the day, both have a good staying power.

Pore Coverage

Lunasol has a relatively good pore-diffusing ability mainly due to the exceptionally velvety texture that adheres to the skin very well. Coffret D’Or’s pore-concealing ability is satisfactory but not outstanding.

Shine Control

All along, it seems Lunasol is winning. However, Coffret D’Or’s sebum-controlling ability is so impressive that I prefer it to Lunasol overall.

First of all, with Coffret D’Or on, it takes noticeably longer for my oily skin to appear visibly shiny than it does with some of my favorite foundations, like Sofina Raycious (earlier versions) and Shiseido ZA. Also, after gentling matting out the shine, the face looks nearly as matte as when foundation is first applied, which is not always the case with most foundations I’ve tried.

As for Lunasol, the soft powder (which has an almost-moist feel) does not seem to absorb sebum very well. The luminous and glowy finish makes the shine look more pronounced as the day goes on. Also, the face still looks somewhat shiny after I matte out the shine.

Between the two, I prefer Coffret D’Or for its exceptionally good shine-control ability. For me, the finish can look a little dry during the first hour of wear. But after that, the finish looks natural for the rest of the day with little maintenance. If you have combination or oily skin or if you live in a warm climate, Coffret D’Or is worth considering.

However, if you have dry skin with no issue of excessive sebum, then Lunasol’s soft and velvety powder will probably suit you better and give you a beautifully luminous finish.

With the primers:

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Veil UV
& Lunasol Smoothing Makeup Base)

Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Veil UV (SPF 20, PA ++, alcohol-free) has a very pleasing light milky texture and is easy to apply. Designed to add luminosity to the skin, it goes on almost completely sheer and it has visible shimmer. With this primer, Coffret D’Or’s finish turns considerably more velvety, almost like Lunasol (when worn without any primer) and the level of pore coverage is also increased slightly.

However, for me, the huge drawback is that the shine-control ability considerably lessens, which is very disappointing.

Lunasol’s Smoothing Makeup Base (no sunscreen factor, with some alcohol) is designed to diffuse the appearance of pores. It is slightly thicker than Beauty Lasting Veil UV but it is still easy to apply. It goes on almost completely sheer and does not have shimmer.

When worn with this primer, Lunasol’s smooth and velvety texture remains but the finish turns slightly more matte. Even though I don’t think the primer and the foundation worn together conceal pores better (then the foundation alone), the primer does seem to help control shine to a small extent.

While I would see Beauty Lasting Veil UV as a moisturizing primer for those who think Coffret D’Or is too dry, Smoothing Makeup Base seems to be for those concerned about Lunasol’s lack of shine-control ability.

Overall, in terms of the four options (two foundations with/without the primers), I would still prefer Coffret D’Or worn without primer. The winning attribute is definitely the outstanding shine-control efficacy.

Related Posts:
(spring/summer 2008 base makeup lineups)

Coffret D’Or
(loving the look of the loose powder)

SUQQU
(known for good-quality foundations)

Anna Sui
(very tempted to pick up the loose powder compact)

{ 32 comments }

Primed for Primers – Featuring Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N in 01

by PJ on Sunday, December 2, 2007

in -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, stash focus

(Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N in #01)

For me, foundation primers are never a necessity. For my oily and sensitive skin, the fewer products I have on my face, especially during daytime in warmer months, the better.


But, occasionally, I really want my base makeup to give me an ultra-flawless finish. This is when primers can potentially make a positive difference.

In the past couple of years, more and more brands are coming up with various kinds of primers. (For Japanese brands in particular, primers have long been a crucial aspect of base makeup.) There are just so many kinds of them: those that cover pores, those that make fine lines appear less visible, those that control shine, those that add luminosity, those that further condition the skin, green ones that conceal redness, purple ones that cancel out sallowness, pinks ones that combat ashy skin tones, those specifically for the eye/lip/T-zone areas, and those with a combination of the purposes above…

If you want to try a foundation primer, do know exactly what you want it to do for you. Otherwise it is very easy to be confused with all the products with all the various purposes. Think specifically about what you want your usual foundation to do for you and you will know what kind of primer you are looking for to work hand in hand with your foundation to give you the overall finish you want.

For me, I want my base makeup to even out my skin tone (particularly some minor redness) and to conceal pores. So, I naturally look for primers that achieve these alongside my foundations.

Between the two, I am slightly more concerned about concealing pores than evening out my skin tone, and I have found that I don’t really need a primer for pore-concealing. Any heavily silicone-based skincare product will make the skin look and feel more even and help the foundation go on smoother. I happen to have a couple of trial samples of the new Estee Lauder Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher, and, like the previous version, it gives me the (temporary) pore-concealing effect that I want. When my foundation goes on after that, my pores look much less obvious.

So, for a long time, I never really wanted a primer. But when I tried the samples of Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N from the October issue of Voce, I was pleasantly surprised by what it did in terms of evening out the skin tone. So I decided to pick up the product.

The one I bought is #01, which is the lighter shade of the two. (#02 is slightly too orange for my skin tone.) It is a little bit like a yellow-based tinted moisturizer. But in many subtle ways, it works better than just a tinted moisturizer in the sense that it really complements my foundation (usually a powder foundation), which is exactly what a primer should do. For me:

1. It unifies my skin tone and makes redness less obvious.

2. It brightens my skin subtly and effectively, without leaving any visible shine.

3. It further moisturizes and conditions my skin and makes the foundation stay longer. This injection of moisture, especially on the cheek areas, is particularly helpful for me in winter.

Overall, what I like about this primer is that my foundations don’t have to work that hard to achieve and maintain the coverage I want. One thing worth noting is that this primer is not silicone-based (silicone is quite far down on the ingredient list) and it is not a product designed specifically to conceal pores. But it still has a minimal pore-concealing effect.

In short, it is a good all-rounder for me.

On the other hand, one drawback that I can envisage at the moment is that it might be too emollient for some people with oily skin in warmer months, since it is quite moisturizing in itself.

Interestingly, I went to my own Biteki “archive” and found that it had been popular with Biteki readers. Each February, Biteki publishes results of the readers’ poll on their favorite products in various categories. This primer was among the top five in 2006 and 2007. I don’t usually pay a lot of attention to poll results, since different products suit different people, But in this case, for me, it deserves the high placings.

Lastly, this primer comes with SPF 12 and PA+, which is not enough in itself for daytime use. An effective sunscreen with at least SPF 15 and anti-UVA ingredients has to be used before this primer for proper sun protection.

Related posts:

Paul & Joe Lip Gloss N
(part of the holiday 2007 collection)

Loving Japanese Brands: Paul & Joe
(my personal thoughts on the brand)

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel Mat Lumière & SUQQU Powder Foundation Glow
(Find out which one I like better)

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Product Review: Prescriptives primer, concealer and cleanser

by PJ on Friday, November 16, 2007

in -Prescriptives, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Prescriptives Better Off Fast-Acting Makeup Remover,
Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer,
and Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)


Prescriptives is generally renowned for base makeup products. I am going to review two of them, plus a water-proof makeup remover. Let’s dive straight in.

Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer:

It is a primer that is supposed to even out redness. I understand what the product is trying do, as it imparts some yellow and green shimmer which attempts to cancel out redness. But overall, the shimmer sits on top of the redness (which is still visible) instead of neutralizing it.

Basically it is a primer that adds quite a lot of luminosity to the face (which can be a little too shiny for some people), and it is also able to alter the finish of your foundation. (My matte powder foundation takes on a more luminous finish.)

However, the overall texture is slightly too greasy and the finish is too shiny for my personal liking (apart from the fact that it doesn’t neutralize my redness).

Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15:
(with titanium dioxide to protect against UVA rays)

As we know, there are many products in the same category as YSL’s Touche Éclat, and this is one of them. Some of these products rely more on light-reflective particles while some use more opaque pigments. I think Prescriptives’ version is more toward the opaque-pigment end of the spectrum. Apart from that, the consistency is very creamy and it dries quite quickly, so swift blending is essential. It can be used as a general cream concealer for the face.

For covering imperfections around the eye area, I have noticed that, to reach the desired effect, it is better to put on the needed amount all at once and keep blending. Don’t layer and layer, as it will cake easily.

(Prescriptives Sight Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

The brush is wider than that of most other similar products, so it is not particularly designed for precision concealing. It is more for sweeping across slightly larger areas. Overall, as long as the blending is done speedily, the coverage is relatively satisfactory.

Better Off Fast-Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover:

This is a dual-phase makeup remover for eye and lip makeup. I always go for a dual-phase formula since it is able to dissolve makeup quickly and only very little rubbing and tugging is required for effective removal.

This one doesn’t disappoint me. It cleanses effectively and doesn’t irritate my eyes. It doesn’t leave any greasy residue, but I do suspect that it could possibly be a bit drying for some people. (I don’t have a particular preference regarding this, and I don’t mind some slightly oily residue since I always wash my whole face thoroughly after taking off the eye and lip makeup.)

Overall this is something worth considering, but do bear in mind that there are less expensive options that can preform equally well.

Related Posts:

Prescriptives Foundation Review: Flawless Skin & AnyWear
(Find out which one I prefer.)

My Foundation Routine
(as requested by one of you)

My Skincare Routine
(featuring my favorite makeup remover)

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