What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(The answer is behind the question mark.)

I have been enjoying collecting Dior’s seasonal limited-edition items in the past few years. But most of the time, I don’t have to pay for them.

It is not a secret of any sort. I am sure some people are doing exactly what I do.

All, in an extended report, will be revealed on Thursday.

Do come back tomorrow!

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“The new way of selling clothes seems to be not wearing them.”
(quoted from The Daily Mail)

I took this photo when I stopped by the Abercrombie & Fitch store in London some time ago just so that you can literally see what I mean.

This is the very first Abercrombie & Fitch store in Europe, which opened in May this year, and it instantly became an attraction.

I have very mixed feelings about it. I do like the clothes. They fit me very well, and the fabrics seem reasonably good. But that’s about all that I feel positive about the store.

Bizarrely, the store does not have any sign or any display window. As I was approaching the front entrance for the first time, I wasn’t entirely sure if this was Abercrombie & Fitch. I was relatively certain that it was, judging by the two preppy “doormen”. (I knew the brand’s image and reputation, but still, why were they there?) But it looked like the store was having a private press event, with very loud music pumping out from inside.

I saw some customers coming out with the A&F bags. Then I decided to just head in anyway (and walked past the mannequin who apparently forgot his shirt).

Inside, it felt like a club. For a clothing store, the lighting was too dark and the music was almost unbearably loud. (One of my friends told me that, while in the shop, he felt like ordering a gin & tonic from the staff.)

The shop staff, both boys and girls, were probably the most attractive group of sales assistants I had ever seen. Later I found that their proper job title is “in-store models“. No wonder. They certainly look modely…

Everything is pricey. A short-sleeved T-shirt costs 30 pounds (about 60 USD). I liked it when I tried it on, but I am not going to pay this amount of money just on a T-shirt.

Also, the Abercrombie & Fitch store is located at the southern end of Savile Row, the heart of the finest British bespoke tailoring. This is where a couple of my all-time favorite shops are, and I perfectly understand why they don’t like a mass-market chain store next to them.

Abercrombie & Fitch has certainly made its first store in Europe a shopper’s destination, but I am not sure they did it in the right way.

I would like to go on a bit more, but each thing I have mentioned had been written in much greater detail. If you are interested, I have selected some very relevant articles for you to enjoy.

On their criticized hiring policies
from (UK’s) The Daily Mail (This is by far the most interesting article I have come across regrading the launch of Abercrombie & Fitch in the UK. If you are not going to browse through all the articles, do read this one to find out what it is like to work in Abercrombie & Fitch as an “in-store model”.

“The company told us it was an equal opportunity employer. Funny, because all its visible staff are young and beautiful.”


On the huge mark-up in the UKfrom (UK’s) Evening Standard

“I was horrified that British teenagers are being expected to pay almost double the price of their American counterparts.”


On the impact of Savile Row
from Shopping Centers Today

“Exploiting the Savile Row name to attract high-paying retailers and businesses at the cost of this world-esteemed industry is shortsighted.”

Related Posts:

Zac Posen Spring & Summer 2008 Ready-to-Wear Collection
(one of my recent favorites)

The Marc Jacobs Boutique
(the first one in the UK)

The Jimmy Choo / Marks & Spencer Lawsuit
(What is your take on this?)

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(“Could I have some water with this?”)


(Catch Part One from yesterday.)


Samples don’t lure me just because they are free, since storing these little fiddly bits can be painful.
But using a sample as part of my daily routine is probably the only way to know whether a product actually suits me. (Also, in the UK, I can’t return cosmetics items just because I don’t like them. The return policies here are totally different from those in the US.)

So, how do we get our hands on what’s on the other side of the counter? (Again, do let me know your thoughts!)

Look It
No, no flashy bling or designer handbag necessary. Looking presentable should do. I know it is a cliché. But, if there is no prior knowledge of a certain customer, the sales assistants will have to base their judgment partly on appearance when it comes to handing out samples.

To be fair and to put ourselves in their shoes, samples are not unlimited and they have to last comfortably until the next supply. So, in a way, sample-giving is almost an investment for them. I guess it’s only natural that they will choose to give them to whoever they think might have more purchasing potential.

Act It
Continuing with the idea of purchasing potential, I think it pays to do research before we hit the counter. If you are a devoted cosmetics fan who enjoys browsing related magazines, websites, blogs, and forums, I am sure you have found that all of it helps a little when you discuss products and ask for samples.

With some homework done, chances are that the sales assistants will echo your knowledge and enthusiasm by inviting you to try more of their products.

Target It
If you can, be specific. I find that cosmetics counters usually have two kinds of samples — those of star products and the latest additions. In my local Boots, it seems that Estee Lauder often has Idealist samples and that Elizabeth Arden often has Eight Hour Cream samples.

For me, I usually ask for samples of toners and moisturizers for my sensitive skin. If they give me something I already know I don’t particularly like, at least I can give it to one of my friends…

Time It
Apart from trying to buy from the same person when the store is not busy (which is by no means a new discovery), I find that the best time to ask for samples is *right before* you commit to a transaction. I tell my friends “Always ask politely for samples right before reaching in your handbag for your credit card.” They all say it works. For me, it certainly does.

By the time the assistant hands back your card and receipt, you’re done. Oftentimes, their eyes are already following other waiting customers. It is too late, and you can’t really blame them, especially when the store is busy. So, ask for samples while it is still all about you.

This is just part of my personal experience. Do share more of your tips and observations with me!

(I shall name your comments Part Three: The Dessert!)

————-

Want to voice more of your views?

You Mean That’s NOT Real?
(I am sure it is obvious to you. But what do you think of it all?)

Japanese vs. Western
(Battle of the brands…Who has won your heart?)

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(Bon appétit!)


(The main course is served tomorrow…)

I guess it is fair to say that we all love freebies. Getting cosmetics samples is a great way to test-drive potential candidates and discover new favorites.

Like return policies (and thank you for all your comments and contributions), I have also observed that the level of generosity when it comes to samples seems to differ from country to country.

In my own experience, sales assistants in Japan seem to be particularly generous.

I had an unforgettable experience when I was in Tokyo. I bought two small travel-size (30ml) Shiseido toners in a drugstore. I didn’t expect to get any sample and I felt embarrassed to ask, since the toners were inexpensive and since the staff so kindly offered to keep and watch over my heavy belongings behind the counter while I was browsing.

But when I showed interest in another Shiseido skincare line (after I paid for my toners), one assistant not only gave me samples of virtually the whole line of about 15 products but also taped all of them, one by one, next to where they appeared on the product brochure (so I wouldn’t mess up the routine due to my lack of competence in Japanese).

Well, in a way, she didn’t achieve her purpose (of having me try more of their products) at all, because the brochure and samples have been kept untouched as a souvenir. (I wish I had a photo to show you! It is quite a sight.) But this level of patience and service has impressed me tremendously.

What about the US? I have never lived in the US but I have an impression that the sales assistants are also generous, even for non-purchasing customers, as long as they show enough interest. (This is where I’d love your stories and thoughts. Let me know!)

In the UK, it can be difficult to get samples without any purchase. Generally, even when I do buy things, it depends on whether the assistant knows me from previous purchases or it depends on how much I buy.

But I did once experience moments of brilliance in a Boots store in London. After using my Boots advantage card loyalty points on a Chanel blusher (so technically I didn’t pay for it), I was looking at some Chanel skincare products. It just so happened that whatever product I was pointing at and said I was interested in trying, the assistant managed to find a sample for me.

My friend who was with me then said it looked as if the assistant had been hypnotized by me… (Ummm…is this a skill that I actually have?)

But, most of the time, I need to try way harder than this…

I am interested to know about the sample-giving “culture” where you are. Do drop a comment, and please let me know which country (or city) you are in!

Tomorrow (the main course): I talk about how I usually ask for samples at the counters. I don’t want to keep my experience to myself anymore, so do stay tuned!

Other mini discussion going on:
Can I Return This, Please?

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(Is the dilemma necessary?)

More and more of us savvy customers know that high price does not necessarily equal high quality. But why are some products getting more and more expensive?

From the marketing point of view, price range and targeted consumer group almost define each other. High-end products (which are getting “higher” all the time) will always have a specific arena to thrive.

But, from a personal point of view, a perfect skincare product for someone, regardless of age, gender, or skin-type, can simply be from any price range. As long as we have the adequate knowledge, the rest is mere preference.

I don’t necessarily see anything wrong with going for a relatively expensive moisturizer if it happens to be a well-formulated product that has a consistency, texture, and aroma that suit or appeal to someone. A good moisturizer will indeed hydrate the skin, improve its feel and texture, maintain its good condition, and delay the appearance of signs of aging.

However, I think it is wrong to assume, believe, or dream that a fancy and pricey face cream will permanently erase any wrinkle or lift any part of our faces. (That is what plastic surgery is for.) Many cosmetics companies know how dreams and promises are worth, and they are putting them on the price tags and touting them with provocative but ambiguous language.

I remain skeptical of the word “anti-aging” as a marketing term. An enduringly successful marketing term as it has proven to be, the word itself can be rather misleading. It creates a whole new genre of skincare products, but, unfortunately, some of them are shockingly redundant.

It is a blessing to able to have and afford choices, but let’s all know more about what we are paying for…

Catch up with previous posts in A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series:

5-1: Wisdom from Mom
5-2: Top of the Chart
5-3: The Only Words You Need to Know
5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend


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Some time ago I read the article What Makes a State-of-the-Art Moisturizer? on Paula Begoun‘s website.

I urge everyone to read it. Clear, concise, jargon-free, and informative, it has all we need to know about moisturizers.

In summary of her article, a top-of-the-notch moisturizer, by today’s standard, should include these ingredients:

–ingredients that mimic the structure of the skin
–anti-irritants

–anti-oxidants

–cell-communicating ingredients

–emollients

–sunscreen ingredients (for daytime moisturizers)

I will leave you to have a look at the article to see exactly what these ingredients are and what they do for our skin.

With this knowledge, we don’t necessarily need others (sales assistants, celebrities in TV adverts,…) to tell us what product works. (It doesn’t have to be any of Paula’s products.) We can all make a sound judgment on our own and pick out products that are superior to others wherever we do our skincare shopping.

Concluding tomorrow: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse…

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They are:

-zinc oxide
-titanium dioxide
-avobenzone
(aka Parsol 1789
or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
-Mexoryl SX
-Tinosorb

Each of these ingredients protects against UVA, which has been proven to cause signs of aging and skin cancer.

On your next shopping trip for a daytime sunscreen moisturizer, if you don’t see any of those on the ingredient list as an active ingredient*, put it back. You’ll be surprised at how many moisturizers that claim to offer UV protection actually don’t have any of these ingredients. These products are simply not suitable for daytime use alone and will have to be paired with a proper sunscreen product.

Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin (featured yesterday) is a great daytime moisturizer because:

1. It has butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as an anti-UVA ingredient.

2. It includes anti-oxidants such as grape seed extract and rosemary extract.

3. The product is housed in an opaque bottle and is dispensed with a pumper, so the anti-oxidants don’t lose their benefits due to exposure to light and air.

During daytime, UV protection is really all we need. The rest is just a plus.

In Japanese skincare and foundation products, a PA marking (ranging from PA+ to PA++++) specifies the level of UVA protection alongside the SPF marking (which only indicates UVB protection). For example, Sofina’s Very Very UV Cut Milk has the “SPF 24 , PA+++” marking.

This is standard practice in Japanese cosmetics, and I hope more western brands would adopt a similar system. This will definitely raise the awareness of proper sun protection, which is the most vital part of anti-aging skincare.

Tomorrow: Five pillars of a great all-round moisturizer.

*If the list does not indicate what the active ingredients are, at least it has to be close to the top of the full ingredient list. (The ingredients are listed roughly in the order of the percentages they occupy in the formulation.)

Related Posts:

Anti-Aging Week 5-1: Wisdom from Mom

Anti-Aging Week 5-2: Top of the Chart

Anti-Aging Week 5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend

Anti-Aging Week 5-5: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse

Sunscreen Basics

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(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Normal/Combination Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

Britain’s How to Look Good Naked is Extreme Makeover without the knife. It is about dressing right for every body-type, a healthy lifestyle, and body-image confidence. It is also one of the very few prime-time TV programs in the UK that touch upon skin/hair/body care.

Each week (during the second series) they presented the result of a consumer trial. In their anti-aging moisturizer test, Estée Lauder’s DayWear Plus SPF 15 topped the chart.

To me, this result is immensely interesting in two ways. Firstly, as far as I know, DayWear Plus has never been marketed as an anti-aging moisturizer. (It is not in the anti-aging category on Estée Lauder’s website either.) But I am glad that it was included in the test, because I have always believed that, so far, sunscreen products with UVA and UVB protection are the only truly anti-aging products.

Secondly, I have been using DayWear Plus for years. I used the original DayWear for a while and I switched to the oily-skin version (seen below) when it came out. This lighter version is moisturizing (without being greasy), features anti-UVA and UVB ingredients, and serves as a good makeup primer. (Now I alternate between this and Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid, which has the same assets.)

(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Oily Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

The test in the program is by no means exhaustive. Only four moisturizers were chosen, based on a wide range of prices and general popularity. But it is great to see one of my favorite moisturizers beat the others, which all claim to have anti-aging properties.

Read the rest of the articles in my Anti-Aging Series!

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My mother rarely wears makeup. She doesn’t need it. In fact, I think she looks the best with no makeup.

She will turn 60 in a couple of years and she has very dry skin. But she always looks wonderful and younger than her childhood friends of similar ages.

There is absolutely no secret to her radiantly dewy complexion, but I’ve always observed that–

–She rarely stays up.

–She is one of the most positive and stress-free people I know.

–She eats a wide range of fruits and vegetables every day. (When I was growing up, I had to eat at least two kinds of fruits every day apart from the usual meals, which were already packed with veggies.)

–She loves walking, cycling, and line-dancing.

She never buys expensive skincare products. (Olay and Nivea are her usual choices.) But she uses sunscreen every single day. At night, Vaseline Petroleum Jelly is one of her staples for her very dry skin.

–She doesn’t smoke.

–She drinks a bit of red wine (about one-third of a glass) every now and then, which is probably the healthiest possible way to consume alcohol. (Some research showed that it is better than totally avoiding alcohol.)

For me, “anti-aging” is not just a word written on skincare products. It is written on fresh fruit, a good night’s sleep, running shoes, and relaxing laughter. (Most of my 10 Golden Skincare Rules are reflections of my mother’s lifestyle habits.)

Tomorrow: an “anti-aging” moisturizer that tops a consumer test in the UK

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Since I started this blog, I have not touched upon a hot topic: anti-aging skincare.

This will be my focus throughout next week. All the five posts (one for each day, from Monday to Friday) will be about the idea of anti-aging. Here is a preview:

You’ll read about what my mother does to keep her skin healthy, radiant, and dewy and to keep her looking younger than her (jealous) school friends.

You’ll read about a moisturizer that tops a consumer test in a popular British TV program and why I have been using it for years. (It is not Boots No. 7’s Protect & Perfect (named Restore & Renew in the US).)

You’ll read about what I refer to when I choose moisturizers and about relations between price and quality.

I am not a skincare expert, but there are simple things I believe in and I look forward to hearing what you think next week!

(Do subscribe to my e-mail updates so you won’t miss out!)

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