all about Japanese cosmetics

(Sofina Raycious Frosty Loose Powder (left)
and Ray Crush Powder (right))

As I mentioned previously, when Raycious didn’t release any new item for spring/summer 2008, I suspected that the line was going to be discontinued. When news about Sofina’s new base makeup line, Primavista, arrived last month, it was obvious the line would be Raycious’ successor.

As Sofina‘s webpage for Raycious has been updated with the official announcement that the sales of Raycious will be terminated on August 25th, I would like to take a look back at one of my favorite base makeup lines.

(This post is not meant to be a product review, since the items you see here (except Frosty Loose Powder, which I only have the case of) were released quite some time ago and are not sold anymore. Also, for hygiene reasons, I have not been using these items (apart from Ray Crush Powder).)

(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious, debuted in 2000, is the base makeup line of Sofina. (Raycious is not a brand in itself. It is one of Sofina’s two base makeup lines, alongside Finefit.) Looking back, I think Raycious was one of the reasons why I started to be drawn into Japanese cosmetics (particularly foundations) because the line clearly offered something that western brands hadn’t come up with. (
For more information on this (and on Sofina in general), please have a look at this previous post.)

One of Raycious’ best-selling products was the powder foundation, whose formula was updated every year (in spring). People seemed to either love it or hate it, and I wasn’t surprised. Raycious’ powder foundation didn’t try to please everyone, and I believe this was one of the reasons for its success. (I suppose when we try to please everyone, we please no one.)

(Glamorous Skin Powder, Raycious’ last powder foundation release,
along with a limited-edition pink case)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious’ powder foundation is generally a lot more suitable for people with oily skin or people living in a warm climate. While people with dry skin can find it dry and chalky, those with oily skin (like me) tend to find it effective in sebum control. What I also love about it is that the foundation shade doesn’t darken or turn dull overtime. It is one of the very few foundations that wear better and better for me throughout the day. (By the way, Raycious’ powder foundations are
meant to be applied dry and are not two-way foundations.)

The first few editions of the powder foundation are the ones I particularly love, as the finish of the later ones seems so luminous that it can look a little too glowy/shiny for me. However, their pressed powder and loose powder have constantly been part of my base makeup routine up until today (with all the extra refills I got). The Ray Crush Powder (seen above, on the right) was my sole favorite loose powder until I tried Lavshuca’s Face Powder (I now like both equally). The pressed powder does everything that a pressed powder should do in terms of gently mattifying the skin and diffusing the appearance of pores.

As I have alluded to, not all Raycious items are equally fantastic. For instance, people seem to complain that its liquid foundation (updated annually in fall) often lacks coverage.

One item I do also like is Stick Makeup, which is the kind of stick foundation that many major brands (both western and Japanese) were releasing one after another many years ago. The lovely cream-to-powder formula blends very easily and has a lovely matte and subtly luminous finish.

(great-looking skin in a stick)
On the other hand, Beads in Gels are not really for me. They are color-adjusting primers (available in soft green, blue and purple). The colored particles are crushed during the application to form a very subtle light-reflective pearlescence.
(They don’t really suit me…)


Unfortunately, they have quite a lot of alcohol. (This is fairly typical of Japanese primers.) I happened to get the one in blue (above the green one in the photo) in a gift with purchase (after I tried the green one), and I never opened it. It is still in the box in the unwrapped cellophane. It will probably always stay unopened in its “brand new in box” condition. A nice time-capsule candidate for the history of Japanese cosmetics, I suppose…

If you have also seen my Raycious foundation cases and pressed powder items, you have now seen pretty much all my Raycious collection…

Even though I think this is probably my last post on Raycious, I don’t think this is my last time mentioning the line. Various products from Raycious are among my favorite base makeup finds, and I am sure I will compare others with them in the future. In the meantime, let’s hope that Primavista will live up to the expectation of all the Raycious fans as well as surprise a few others!

Related Posts (my recent base makeup favorites):

ZA Two-Way Foundation

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

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(Freeplus Maintenance Lotion and Maintenance Emulsion)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo‘s skincare range for sensitive skin, Freeplus, will release two new items for fall 2008.

The new toner, Maintenance Lotion, and the new moisturizer, Maintenance Emulsion, will be added to the range. Apart from the six oriental herbal extracts featured in Freeplus’ lineup (please see my brand profile on Freeplus to find out more), Jezo Spruce and Chinese Peony extracts will be included in the two new products. They are said to be able to improve skin’s elasticity.

The two products will be available in Japan from October 16th.

Related Posts (skincare items I am currently using):

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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(SUQQU Dual Pressed Powder)
(all image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

SUQQU is renowned for its base makeup, and the brand will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on September 5th, 2008. (It should be available in the UK about a month later.)

The main new item is Dual Pressed Powder, which is essentially the pressed version of the two shades of Loose Powder released in fall 2007.

With the Loose Powder, the two shades (Natural and Deep) are meant to be used together. Natural is for the T-zone and the eye area as a subtle highlighter while Deep contours the face. I think this is how it works with the two shades (also named Natural and Deep) in Dual Pressed Powder as well.

All the parts (Natural (refill), Deep (refill), case, and brush) are sold separately.

If you simply want to see how the two shades work together and don’t care about the amount of powder you get, getting the pressed versions (even along with the case and the brush, all together 10500 JPY) will work out cheaper. (The Loose Powder costs 6300 JPY each (puff included).)

The fall 2008 release will also include a new shade for Powder Foundation Glow and Foundation (a cream foundation). Both products were first released in fall 2007. (Please see my review of Powder Foundation Glow here.)

(Powder Foundation Glow)

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(image from www.iswii.net)

Here is the new promotional image for Paul & Joe‘s fall 2008 base makeup collection.

Generally, Paul & Joe’s base makeup items are revamped every two years or so. This season, it is the cream compact foundation and the fall/winter primer that will be updated:

Creamy Powder Compact Foundation (6 shades, SPF 15, PA +)
Moisturizing Foundation Primer (3 shades, SPF 12, PA +)

Two of the three shades of Moisturizing Foundation Primer will supposedly have more or less the same shades as the existing two (the neutral #01 (the one I have) and the slightly darker and warmer #02 ). #03 will be a new shade, which is translucent and with more shimmer than #01 and #02.

(Paul & Joe Moisturizing Foundation Primer)
(image from www.cosme.net)


There will also be three additions to the Face Color (blusher/highlighter/contourer) range, in 11 Rhapsody, 12 Chic, and 13 Bohemian.

(Paul & Joe Face Color in 13 Bohemian)
(image from www.iswii.net)

It is worth noting that, with Japanese brands, blushers are often released with base makeup items and they are sometimes categorized as part of the base makeup range. I think this reflects the Japanese aesthetics of everyday makeup, where, just like foundation, blushers are meant to look ultra-natural and barely noticeable. I will go back to this in another post later on.

The official release date of the Paul & Joe fall 2008 base makeup collection is September 5th in Japan and September 1st in Taiwan.

If you have your September 2008 Biteki with you, you might have noticed the October teaser. Like last October with Voce, the October 2008 issue of Biteki will come with a Paul & Joe pouch with samples of the new foundation and primer. I am not usually a creamy compact foundation user, but I will probably try the primer. If I do, I will certainly share my thoughts with you.

Updated on August 24, 2008:

Paul & Joe has updated its website.

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel vs. SUQQU

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(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

Anna Sui’s website has been updated with information on the fall 2008 collection. The collection features the display-worthy Makeup Color Collection D, which marks the 10th anniversary of Anna Sui Cosmetics.

This set is officially out in Japan on August 21st. If you are considering buying this, do check the website for the photos. If, like me, you’ve decided not to splash out (it costs 18,900 JPY), you can still enjoy how Anna Sui presents their lovely products.

The website now also has new downloadable goodies, such as desktops and blogparts, for a limited period of time only. I have placed an Anna Sui clock at the end of the sidebar just for fun, probably for limited time as well…

If only I could have a life-size photo of this set as my computer desktop…that’s all I ask for…

Also, if you are an Anna Sui fan, do check out Citrine’s Blog and her beautiful collection of Anna Sui items.

Related Posts:

To Buy or Not To Buy – Anna Sui Makeup Collection D


My Anna Sui Foundation Cases

Loving Japanese Brands – Anna Sui

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(image from www.chanel.com)

If there is one word that sums up the makeup trends for fall 2008, it is “warmth”. We had grey from fall 2007 and cool lilac and blue from spring 2008, and now we are greeted by opulent gold and red.

Fields of Gold

Chanel leads the pack with a collection with gold in the eye palette, lip gloss, face highlighter, and nail color. It is a decadent shade of gold, although it can be too warm for some complexions. If this is the case with you, items from Lavshuca (Grade Color Select in GD-1) and Shiseido The Makeup (Lip Gloss in G29 Mellow Gold) might suit you better.

(Lavshuca Grade Color Select in GD-1 (among swatches))
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca)

(Shiseido The Makeup Lip Gloss in G29 Mellow Gold)
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/themakeup)

Gold is also seen in Vernis Crème de Nacres, two nail products in Lancôme‘s fall 2008 collection that are applied with a special applicator. (I am not entirely certain whether they are sold in North America, but they are already available in the UK.)

(Lancôme Vernis Crème de Nacres)
(image from www.lancome.jp)

Shades of Red

If you are fans of purples, there are still some nice shades from Givenchy, Clarins, Awake and Sonia Rykiel as these beautiful hues continue the trend in spring 2008. But many purples are taking on a much warmer tone for fall 2008 and turning into plum purples. We are also seeing shades of burgundy and red, which, just like gold, are the key shades for this fall.

For plum and burgundy, which still somewhat echo the spring trend, look into the palettes from Laura Mercier, EST, and Magie Deco:

(Laura Mercier Eye Color Trio in Mauve Sunset)
(image from www.lauramercier.com)


(EST Emotional Aura Eyes in 07)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

(Magie Deco Shadow Brilliance in 021 Bordeaux Shadow)
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco)

Apart from gold, Chanel‘s fall 2008 collection also features delicious plums in Rouge Hydrabase in Fantastic Plum and Nail Colour in Fantastic.

While warmer reds are seen in major Japanese brands (like Lunasol and SUQQU below), Dior, always a trendsetter, features a muted warm red in 5-Colour Eyeshadow in #673 Earth Tones:

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)
(image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)
(Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow in 673 Earth Tones)
(image from www.sephora.com)


Mix & Match

If you love experimenting with makeup trends, why not try wearing gold and warm purples/reds to sport both trends at the same time?

(Magie Deco Pure Color in GD076 and RD470)
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco)

(Cosme Decorte AQ Shadow Supreme in 015)
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/aq)
(Maquillage Forming Shiny Eyes in 54)
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/mq)

If reds around the eyes don’t suit you, try gold with deep cool violets. It is a beautiful and modern way to wear violets. I am thinking about trying the items below:

(Maquillage Forming Shiny Eyes in 52)
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/mq)
(Lavshuca Dual Prism Eyes in PU-1 (among the swatches))
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca)

Last but not least, the two makeup looks for fall/holiday 2008 from Shiseido The Makeup epitomise the key trends for the coming seasons:

(Eyeshadow Quad Shimmer in Q11 (left) and Q12 (right))
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/themakeup)

This season, I think I will be trying slightly deeper purples (than the ones I have been wearing) as well as platinum golds (not bronze golds). What about you? What shades are tempting you?

Related posts (more red, plum, and lilac):

Coffret D’Or Trance Deep Eyes in Grey Variation

(with a cool medium lilac)

NARS Fall 2008 Collection

ck Calvin Klein Fall 2008 Collection

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(YSL Ombres 5 Lumières)
(image from www.ysl.com)

I had a chance to do a quick dash around the shops a few days ago, and I saw the new palettes from YSL that I had been really looking forward to.

Lilac Sky (seen above) was what I was mainly waiting to see. I really wanted to love it, but unfortunately I didn’t.

The palette contains an off-white, a light lilac, a warm orchid purple, a cool medium-to-dark lilac, and a deep violet. (The latter two are matte.) The deciding factor for me was the medium-to-dark lilac. I swatched it on the back of my hand, and it was too dark and too greyish for me. The orchid shade was essentially matte but had sparse bronze-gold flecks, which somehow looked awkward against the bright orchid.

The softly shimmery light lilac is the only shade I like, but it is similar to the lilac in Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes’ Purple Variation and the Purple Variation lilac has a more pleasing and dimensional finish.

It is such a shame. It really is a stunning palette to behold, but most of the shades won’t suit me. I won’t be paying £35 for this.

Then, walking in the streets of London and on my way to meet up with a friend, I was flipping through the attached booklet (featuring fall 2008 makeup items, brand by brand) from the September issue of Biteki that I had picked up earlier in the day. After nearly walking into a lamppost (walking and obsessive makeup reading do *not* go hand in hand), I saw something that instantly put my lilac disappointment behind.

(image from www.kesalanpatharan.co.jp)

(Eye Color Palette in S007)
(image from www.kesalanpatharan.co.jp)

Kesalan Patharan‘s fall 2008 collection, titled Melty Color Magic, will be launched in Japan on August 22nd. The collection features three limited-edition Eye Color Palettes. All three look beautiful and wearable, but I think you know which is the one I was immediately drawn to. The website describes it as “plum, aqua blue, and purple”; I describe it as perfection. The lilac reminds me of the one in Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral, which has been my ultimate lilac and the standard against which all lilacs are judged.

On the previous photo from Cosme.Net, it wasn’t easy to make out the actual colors of this palette. After seeing the photos in Biteki (and on the website later), this palette is now on top of my fall 2008 makeup shopping list…

Related Posts:

YSL Fall 2008 Makeup Collection

Keep It Gold – YSL

A Splash of Color – More Lilting Lilac

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(All images are from
www.cosmedecorte.com/magiedeco)

Magie Deco has updated its website to feature its fall 2008 collection – Bordeaux Magic.

This is yet another interpretation of red by a Japanese brand for fall 2008, and the color figures in the eye palette, eyeshadow single, cream eyeshadow, lipstick, lip gloss, mascara and nail color. The collection therefore has a very coherent look.

(the two new Shadow Brilliance palettes)

Compared with SUQQU and Lunasol, the red used in Magie Deco’s collection is deeper and has a plum-purple tone, which fits the theme. #21 Bordeaux Shadow palette looks especially striking.

I think the wine-reds in this collection can be more wearable for some people than warmer reds, but I am only judging by the colors themselves, not finish or pigmentation level.

Again, Magie Deco has come up with interesting color combinations for the eye palettes to give itself an edge over wearable but somewhat safe palettes from Maquillage and Coffret D’Or, although I didn’t expect its seasonal theme to be so similar to those of Lunasol and SUQQU.

Personally, neither of the two palettes suits me enough to tempt me for a purchase. But Magie Deco is a brand that I really want to try and I hope there will be a good palette for me soon. (When it’s love at first sight, I’ll know it.)

Related posts – a quick look back at Magie Deco:

Summer 2008 Collection

Spring 2008 Collection

Christmas 2007 Collection

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(Cosme Decorte AQ Shadow Supreme)
(image from www.cosmedecorte.com/aq)

Cosme Decorte AQ has updated its website to feature the fall 2008 collection in the revamped packaging. (Please check my previous post for quick details of the lineup.)

Overall the palettes look good. Each of them combines a more vibrant color (blue, green, violet,…) and dark/light neutrals. I am happy that there is one palette with purple, but the shade, beautiful as it is, looks just a little bit too warm and dark for me. I should not be surprised, since we are entering fall. (AQ items are pricey, so I have to be picky.)

Please be aware that the price of the palette itself does not include the two sponge/brush applicators, which are sold separately for 525 JPY (about 4.8 USD) each. (This is not uncommon with Japanese cosmetics. For example, with Lunasol’s blushers, the refill, the case, and the brush are sold separately as well.)

The collection will be available in Japan on August 21st.

Related Posts:

Beauté de Kosé Fall 2008 Collection

Esprique Precious Fall 2008 Collection

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(Paul & Joe Eye Color in 05)

More lilac for today…

Almost all Paul & Joe‘s eyeshadows are available in singles, and the occasional palettes are usually seasonal limited editions. As I am more of a palette person, this is the only Paul & Joe eyeshadow I have, and, yes, it is a lilac.

This is a sheer light lilac. The color only builds up minimally when layered. The powder is very soft and has almost a fluffy feel. I can also use my fingers to apply this eyeshadow and get a nice and natural look.

It has a low-key mildly shimmery finish. What is unique about this shade is the very subtle warm pink and gold shimmer. It adds some vibrancy to the overall finish and prevents the shade from looking one-dimensional when worn alone.

I can use this alone for a barely-there look, as the sheer lilac and the soft veil of shimmer can brighten my eyes. I can also use it to complement my lilac-based eye palettes as a base or where needed.

For me, this is a good time-saver when I want a quick and easy minimal lilac look. It is also nice for travelling when I don’t want to spend too much time putting on makeup but want to look refreshed. (Again, I can use my fingers to apply it, so there is more precious packing space.) I will obviously have to pair it with other colors if I want more depth, but, overall, this is a simple and foolproof basic in my lilac repertoire.

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe

Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N

Paul & Joe Loose Powder

Paul & Joe Pressed Powder

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