makeup

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 1)

by PJ on Monday, March 2, 2009

in _Japanese Base Makeup Week, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

Part 1: Why Japanese?

(from Kanebo Coffret d’Or via YouTube)
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Many years ago, I read an article on Japanese base makeup, which mentioned that the technologies in Japan involved in producing base makeup were about a decade ahead of those of most western brands. While it is not easy to prove this (and whether it is still true today), I do feel that Japanese base makeup items are constantly out-doing their western counterparts.

It seems that we can draw inferences from the cultural side of things. I have often heard that, if one can only choose to wear one makeup item for the day, a western consumer is likely to choose a mascara (or an eyeliner). On the other hand, a Japanese consumer would go for a foundation. (It can be a sweeping generalization, but I do find some truth in it.)

From the articles written by Kaoru Saito, a Japanese beauty expert, it seems that Japanese people perceive having shine and open pores in public as something impolite. Having a fresh and impeccable complexion, free from shine and open pores, seems to be part of the social etiquette. (Maybe this is why there are a lot more products (mainly primers) that tackle these two issues in Japanese beauty brands.)

In this case, it is the consumers’ needs that drive product research and innovation, and the result is products that work better.

I have oily skin and almost always use a powder foundation, and I think I probably want quite a lot from it. I want it to have a fair amount of coverage but to still look natural. I want it to cancel out mild redness, conceal pores, control sebum and last throughout the day. The powder should have a smooth texture, and the finish should be predominantly matte.

Generally, I find that Japanese foundations cancel out mild redness and conceal pores considerably more effectively than western ones. Also, the foundations I have tried that have a good sebum-control efficacy are all from Japanese lines. So, based on personal experience, I’d say that Japanese base makeup products generally perform a lot better.

(I have less experience with liquid/cream foundations. If you have any observation on how Japanese products fare with western ones, please do let me know your thoughts.)

In the next few days, I will talk briefly about the rhythm of product releases in Japanese base makeup, how to choose the right shade, some Japanese beauty brands that are particularly known for base makeup, and some of my personal favorites and recommendations. Do come back!

(The ad on top of this post is the TV ad for Coffret D’Or’s latest powder foundation, Lasting Power Pact UV. It was officially out on March 1st and is something I am interested in trying.)

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Continue reading the series:

Part 2: When are they coming out?

Part 3: Which one is my shade?

Part 4: Which brand shall I look into?

Part 5: My Favorites (& Yours)

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Related posts:

Western vs. Japanese…Who’s Winning?

All About Japanese Cosmetics

“Japanese Brand Profile” Series

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Makeup Review: SUQQU Contour Shadows

by PJ on Monday, March 2, 2009

in -SUQQU, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)


Over the years, SUQQU has been going beyond consistently good quality, exquisitely sophisticated colors, and stunning promotional images. It continues to come up with new product designs (such as Clear Veil Powder, reviewed later on) and strengthen an existing makeup concept.

The new Contour Shadows, available in 5 shades, are a great example of how a brand takes on a makeup concept, explores it, and comes up with its own unique interpretation and wearable products. Also, this is a collection where products for a relatively peripheral purpose take center stage (and very deservedly so).

Contour Shadows are part of SUQQU’s spring 2009 makeup collection, which is inspired by the colors of cherry blossoms. They are worn under the brow bones to accentuate the eyes and highlight the brow bones. The uniqueness of these items is that they are all with varying degrees and tones of pink. The idea is to create a fresh, delicate and youthful look for the eye area with a pink-toned shade.

This idea immediately intrigues me. Some people use a frosty silvery shade to highlight the brow bones. The look can be quite harsh and severe, as it overtakes rather than accentuates the eye area. The three shades below effectively highlight the brow bones and enhance the dimension of the eye area, but they all have a very natural and delicate finish.

(Contour Shadow in 02)

02 is essentially what the Contour Shadow range is all about and is the shade used on the model in the promotional image above. It is a very soft neutral pink (neither too cool nor too warm) with a glowy finish and fine multi-colored shimmer. One layer of it gives you a subtle pink glow. More layers will give you more color as well as the look you see on the ad image above.

While an usual brow highlighter can perform just as well in nearly all aspects, a pink-toned highlighter seems to infuse a lovely and fresh vividness in the eye area (and even in the whole face) which the usual white-toned, silver-toned or fleshed-toned brow highlighters are not able to bring out.

(Contour Shadow in 01)

(Contour Shadow in EX-02 (limited-edition))

01 and EX-02 are closer to the brow-highlighting shades that we would usually expect. 01 is an off-white with a very faint neutral-to-warm pink iridescence, and EX-02 is an off-white with a very subtle neutral-to-cool pink undertone. 01 is more glowy than EX-02, and both shades have less shimmer than 02.

All three shades are (almost precisely) pigmented in such a way that they never look too bright or harsh (even if you are quite heavy-handed with them). At the same time, they can be layered to create subtly different degrees of intensity to go with your overall makeup looks (especially with 02).

The brush in the compact has very soft hair and is nicely-shaped to do the job it is supposed to do. With very minimal effort, it dispenses the product very gently and evenly and leaves no demarcation lines.

If you would like to try one shade from the Contour Shadow range, I would definitely recommend 02. It is the shade that represents this range and it is more difficult to find the same shade (with the same finish and pigmentation level) from other brands.

Overall, these items truly exemplify the attention to detail in Japanese cosmetics (which is also a reflection of the Japanese culture). To come up with a new product range with five shades just for the brow bones almost defies the current economic climate where beauty companies try to come up with products that work for all complexions and where many consumers opt for multi-purposed products. But for a makeup fan like me, it is almost as if SUQQU shared the meticulous passion for the right product for one very specific purpose.

SUQQU’s spring 2009 makeup collection is out now in Japan and will be available in London’s Selfridges from March 5th. (Check the SUQQU global website for the spring 2009 collection event from the 5th to the 8th.)

Next week, I will be reviewing more items from the collection.

Related posts:

My Personal Take on SUQQU

SUQQU Creamy Lipstick in 22

SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy & Brightup

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Makeup Review: Barry M Cosmetics (2)

by PJ on Thursday, February 26, 2009

in makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, makeup - mascara

(Eyeliner Pen in Dark Emerald)

Earlier this month, I reviewed the colorful Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit from Barry M Cosmetics. Today I will be talking about three other (nicely turquoise and purple) items from Barry M: Eyeliner Pen, Super Soft Eye Crayon, and Lengthening Coloured Mascara.

The Eyeliner Pen boasts a “waterproof, smudge-proof, and super long-wear” formula, and it is not an exaggeration. Once it sets, it is indeed smudge-proof and doesn’t budge. (This is not a smudge-able eyeliner for creating a smoky look.)


The retractable pen glides on very smoothly and the color is richly intense. The shade in Dark Emerald is more of a deep turquoise than emerald and beautifully so, with a softly metallic finish.

Available in eight shades, Eyeliner Pen includes some vibrant colors such as pink, silver, and gold. I would love to see a deep purple in this range.

(Super Soft Eye Crayon in No. 5 Purple)

The Super Soft Eye Crayon (5 shades) in Purple is a warm medium purple with a subtly pearly finish. It is quite a nice soft shade for daytime makeup.

I expected this to have some blendability, but it doesn’t have a lot of it. It does go on relatively smoothly but it doesn’t have a lot of movement when blended with fingers. Overall I see this as a moderately-pigmented chunky eyeliner or an eyeshadow that is applied close to the lashline.

(Lengthening Coloured Mascara in Electric Purple)

The Lengthening Coloured Mascara is available in 5 bright shades and adds color to the lashes. Electric Purple is a medium-to-dark warm purple that is pigmented and opaque enough to cover the original dark color of my lashes.


It gently lengthens the lashes (without clumping) and doesn’t add a lot of volume. While it does not dramatically lengthen or volumize the lashes, it can be a fun item to have if you want some funky color on your lashes. It can be used alone or on top of your usual lengthening/volumizing mascara or mascara base. For a pop of color, try using it on the ends of the lashes or on the lashes towards the outer corners of the eyes.

The Lengthening Coloured Masara range is waterproof, even though neither the packaging nor Barry M’s website indicates so.

Related posts:

Cult Product in the Making: MAMEW Mascara Kit

Clinique (Truly) Naturally Glossy Mascara

Kasalan Patharan Eye Color Palette in S007

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RMK for London Fashion Week

by PJ on Wednesday, February 18, 2009

in -RMK, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.rmkrmk.com)

RMK will be hosting an event for London Fashion Week from 19th to 25th of February.

The RMK makeup artists will give you a makeover using RMK’s base makeup products as well as items from the spring 2009 “Spring Translucence” makeup collection.

Also, on the 19th and 21st, you can also book to experience the latest catwalk hairstyles with Wella, Schwarzkopf and Frédéric Fekkai hair stylist Dawn Wellam, who will demonstrate the spring hairstyle trends to go with RMK’s spring makeup looks.

The booking fee is £20, which is redeemable against purchases on the day. Booking customers will receive a skincare trial kit, and those with purchases over £50 and £70 will also receive, respectively, the RMK spring/summer 09 scented candle and a handy cheek brush.

For more information and for booking an appointment, please call RMK at Selfridges on 0207 318 3538.

(information from RMK)

Related posts:

RMK Water Color Eyes in 02 Lavender

Beauty City Guide: London

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Makeup Review: Barry M Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit

by PJ on Monday, February 16, 2009

in makeup, makeup - eyeshadow



Founded by Barry Mero in 1982, Barry M has been quite a popular UK makeup line here. Its vibrant colors, reminiscent of the 80s when the line started, always seem to stand out among other drugstore lines in Boots and Superdrug stores. Today I am reviewing the Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit.

The cardboard compact comes with a mirror and a double-ended sponge applicator.

From top to bottom, left to right:

– dark royal blue, yellow gold, warm purple
– aqua blue, dark grey, cool green
– beige gold, silver, medium brown

The finish and the pigmentation level seem unified across the board. All the colors are well-pigmented. They have a subtle pearly finish with very fine shimmer. None of the shades looks overly frosty.

The colors go on quite smoothly and blend well, and the staying powder is good

I like the fact that the nine colors range from the neutral and office-friendly beige gold and brown to the more 80s-tastic blue, green, and purple. (These three colors go on very slightly lighter, but they are still very vibrant.)

The bright shades complement one another. The aqua blue and the green (with a hint of light turquoise) blend with each other well when I try to wear both of them at the same time. Also, the neutrals can create quite a seamless gradational look.

To have fun with the palette, you can take the three colors from each row or column and see what look you can come up with. (I find that most of the combinations do make sense, and I particularly like the top row, with blue, purple, and gold.)

Considering the fact that Barry M’s eyeshadow singles (Dazzle Dust) cost 4.50 GBP each, the Deluxe Eyeshadow Kit’s price tag (9.95 GBP) seems modest. I think this is a good palette to go for either if you would like a versatile palette at an affordable price or if you want to experiment with colors that you don’t really wear very often.

(The Barry M website ships internationally.)

Related posts (other good items at affordable prices):

– Maybelline Dream Mousse Blush

– Simple Moisturising Facial Wash

– Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Jill Stuart Mix Blush Compact in 01 Baby Blush

by PJ on Monday, February 9, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - blusher, stash focus



Since Jill Stuart‘s Mix Blush Compact was launched in fall 2007, it has become one of the brand’s most popular products. Currently, there are six shades available. (01, 02, 03, and 04 were out in fall 2007, 06 was released in spring 2008, and 07 and 08 were recently available for spring 2009. 05 was a limited-edition item in fall 2007.) Today I am sharing my thoughts on 01 Baby Blush.


Like all the other variations, the blusher comes in a very pretty and princessy compact. A retractable brush is attached to the compact. (It can be detached.)

All Mix Blush Compacts feature four shades that can be used separately or together. I decided to go for 01, which contained an off-white pink, two cool pinks, and one warm pink with a hint of coral.

The powder is very fine and silky. The lightest shade has a pearly finish and some fine shimmery particles, while the other three have a subtly luminous finish. Used together, they give a glowy finish to the cheeks. I personally think it is a little too glowy for me, so I usually skip the lightest shade. The lasting power is fairly good, and the fresh cool-pink shade doesn’t turn dull overtime.

I am sure many of you have read other reviews of Mix Blush Compacts, and opinions seem to vary with regard to the quality of the brush and the pigmentation level of the colors. I think the quality of the brush is decent. The hair is nicely dense and the bristle-heads are soft to the touch, but the hair is slightly stiff. The brush is on the small side but it can be very useful in picking up individual colors from the compact.

In terms of the color intensity, I would say the blusher is moderately pigmented. You will be likely to think it is quite sheer if you are used to some of the highly pigmented blushers from MAC and Bobbi Brown. But Japanese blushers, overall, tend to be subtle and are more about recreating the natural flush, and Mix Blush Compact is actually more pigmented than items like Lavshuca’s Cheek Color in 01 and SUQQU’s Blend Cheeks in 05. (Personally, I prefer lightly-to-moderately blushers, and I actually have to be slightly light-handed with it.)

Overall, Mix Blush Compact is a very good item, as it combines beautiful packaging and a solid performance of the colors. Last year, I came across the news that Jill Stuart Beauty would be launched in the US this year. If you are interested in trying out the line, I think Mix Blusher Compact is a good item to go for.

Related posts:

A Touch of Blusher talks…blushers!

Maybelline Dream Mousse Blush in 04

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Western vs. Japanese…Who’s Winning?

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SUQQU Base Makeup Kit & Pore Covering Base

by PJ on Thursday, February 5, 2009

in -SUQQU, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images and info from www.cosme.net)

On March 6th, SUQQU will release Base Makeup Kit, which includes four existing items from SUQQU’s base makeup range. The kit (10,500 JPY) includes:

– Liquid Foundation Aqua (full-sized)
– Makeup Base Creamy (travel-sized, 7g; please see my review here)
– Loose Powder Natural (travel-sized, 5.5g)
– Loose Powder Deep (travel-sized, 5.5g)
– original pouch

This is a good set to go for if you are interested in trying items from SUQQU’s renowned base makeup range. Also, it is nice that the kit includes both Loose Powder Natural and Deep, which are supposed to be used together (Natural for highlighting and Deep for contouring).

Also, on March 6th, SUQQU will release Pore Covering Base, which will be SUQQU’s fourth primer.

Related posts:

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection

SUQQU Creamy Lipstick in 24

Japanese Cosmetics in the UK

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Dior Lady Dior in 002 French Chic…After All the Indecision

by PJ on Monday, February 2, 2009

in -Dior, 2009 Spring, makeup, stash focus

The Lady Dior palette is part of Dior’s spring 2009 collection, and it is certainly among the most expensive makeup items I have ever bought.

I saw it in person last month, and the long decision process began. My first impressions were not all good, mainly because I had high expectations for Dior’s most expensive seasonal limited-edition item to date (68.5 pounds). First of all, it was smaller than I expected. (The bottom (6.7cm) is slightly wider than the top (6.3cm), and the side measures 5.4cm.) Secondly, I didn’t like the acrylic parts attached to the handles.

My indecision was also surrounded by the fact that I didn’t have enough Boots points for this. If I had gathered enough at the time (which has usually been the case), I would probably have got it sooner.

However, I did think it was overall very beautiful and that it was among the most visually appealing items from Dior. Also, Lady Dior bag and the doctor bag are my two favorite bag designs from Dior, and it was nice to see one of them as the inspiration for a makeup item.

While trying to make a decision, I found some information on the Lady Dior bag and I was reminded that some of the classic versions do have acrylic handles. (Then I stopped fussing…) Also, with all Lady Dior bags, “CD” was stamped on all the oval parts to which the handles are attached (and you can see them in the photos above). Based on these, as well as the obvious quilting and the “DIOR” charms, it does seem that quite a few details are replicated on this palette.

Finally, after I saw the palette at the counter for three times and twice nearly decided not to buy it, I decided to get it. (I also decided to delete a few items on my makeup shopping list.)

The palette comes in a drawstring pouch, and a chain is attached to the palette. It can be too heavy if you want to use it as a bag charm or a key chain. But I am only displaying it on my dressing table, so I actually prefer it to be even heavier for an even more luxurious and substantial feel.


The two sides of the palette attach to each other magnetically. Inside the palette are a mirror, a lip/cheek color and a highlighter. French Chic (002) features an off-white pink with a pale-gold undertone and a warm red. (In the UK, two shades are available (001 and 002). I find that the lip/cheek shade in 001 to be too peachy for me. On the other hand, 001 and 003* are sold in Asia. The lip/cheek shade in 003 is the coolest of the three.)

Both colors are cream-based (not cream-to-powder-based) and they glide relatively well. The highlighter mainly adds shimmer rather than color. (The finish is more intense than what Dior Night Diamond creates.) The lip/cheek shade can go from sheer to intense depending on how much is layered. It has a moist and dewy finish and isn’t too shimmery. (This is based on the testing at the counter. I think I will leave the palette unused for some time until I want to dig in.)

Sold at such a price, it is clearly more of a collector’s item rather than just a makeup product…and I did buy it as someone that enjoys collecting Dior’s limited-edition items that I like. However, I have a feeling that, as a whole, the prices of Dior’s future limited-edition items are likely to continue to go up, partly because it seems that Dior is trying to be even higher-end than it is now. I was thinking to myself that there would probably be a time when I might have to stop collecting them simply because they are too expensive.

In the meantime, it is still handy to have all my Boots points ready. We never know what Dior is going to come up with next…

(For another review of this item (also in 002), please head over to Beauty Anonymous.)

(*003 is also called French Chic, but the colors are different. For a review of it, please check out the post on My Women Stuff.)

Related posts:

Dior Pro Face & Eye Creators

DiorLight Jewelled Makeup Necklace

Golden Dior Luminizing Makeup Jewel

My Personal Take on Dior

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Dior Pro Face & Eye Creators

by PJ on Tuesday, January 27, 2009

in -Dior, 2009 Spring, makeup

(images and info from www.cosme.net)

On March 6th, Dior will launch Pro Face Creator and Pro Eye Creator in Japan, two luxury items with rather hefty price tags.

The Pro Face Creator includes a blusher, a concealer, a highlighting powder, a shading powder, Backstage Mini Cheek Brush, Backstage Concealer/ Highlighter Applicator, and a gold cannage case.

The Pro Eye Creator includes a choice among 5-Color Designers, 5-Color Eyeshadow Palettes, and 5-Color Iridescent Eyeshadow Palettes, as well as DiorShow Iconic mascara (090), Backstage Eyeshadow Brush M, and a gun-metallic silver cannage case.

It seems that, since Night Diamond and Lady Dior, Dior hasn’t stopped coming up with pricey items. The Pro Face Creator is priced at 12,600 JPY (142 USD, 100 GPB), while the Pro Eye Creator is priced between 16,590 and 16,695 (187 USD and 132 GBP on average), depending on which eye palette a customer chooses. (It doesn’t help when yen is very strong at the moment. This time last year, 12,600 JPY equaled 118 USD and 59 GBP.)

At the moment, I am not sure if both items will be sold outside Japan. (Any Dior set that involves a customer’s choice of color is usually exclusive to Japan.) If the Pro Face Creator is available internationally, I will be very interested in its prices in various countries.

Related posts:

Dior Luxury Holiday Collection 2008

TOTALLY DIOR Cannage (Holiday 2007)

My Personal Take on Dior

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CK Calvin Klein Tempting Glimmer Sheer Crème Eyeshadow

by PJ on Tuesday, January 27, 2009

in -Calvin Klein, 2009 Spring, makeup

(image and info from woman.excite.co.jp)

Tempting Glimmer Sheer Crème Eyeshadow is CK Calvin Klein Beauty’s latest item. The cream formula claims to be smudge-proof and long-lasting. (Woman.Excite describes the items as having a mousse texture. I think the consistency is probably somewhere in between.)

It is currently available (in 8 shades) in the US exclusively at Sephora. (It has got a few positive Beautyinsider reviews.) It will be launched in Japan on February 18th (in 6 shades).

As for CK Calvin Klein in the UK, I noticed that the counter in London’s House of Fraser had disappeared. I am not sure whether it has moved to another department store or whether the line has pulled out of the UK market. I will look for further information and I will keep you posted.

Related posted:

CK Calvin Klein Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder

Calvin Klein Secret Obsession

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