skincare – cleansing/toning

Skincare Review: Själ Mineral Källa & Kura Intuitif

by PJ on Friday, February 20, 2009

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from www.sjalskincare.com)

Själ is a high-end skincare line featuring a concise range of products, with a cleanser, toner, a serum, two facial moisturizers, and an eye cream. (“Själ” is a Swedish word meaning soul.) Today I am reviewing the Mineral Källa Energy Tonic and Kura Intuitif Cellular Repair Cream from the range.

– Mineral Källa Energy Tonic (above)

Currently the only toner from Själ, Mineral Källa comes with a spray dispenser. Some of the key ingredients are rice bran extract and ginseng extract.

The product contains benzyl alcohol. When it is towards the top of the ingredient list, it can irritate the skin. But, as it is second to last on the ingredient list of this product, it is very unlikely to cause skin irritation.

Overall the toner sinks in fairly easily, but, compared with one of my favorite toners, Lancôme’s Tonique Doucer, I feel that Mineral Källa is slightly less calming.

The product does not contain parabens.

– Kura Intuitif Cellular Repair Cream

It is the more emollient one of the two facial moisturizers from Själ. Some of the moisturizing agents are squalane, borage seed oil, glycerin, grape seed oil, and a small amount of shea butter and mango butter. It is alcohol free.

Even though the product is targeted at those with dry or very dry skin, the texture is not overly dense or balmy.

One thing worth noting is that both products contain a small amount of gold and silver. Even though it is one of Själ’s main selling points, there are some potential issues with these ingredients. Gold could be a skin irritant and there is no research showing that it has benefits when applied topically on the skin. Also, while silver does have disinfecting properties, it should not stay on the skin for a prolonged period of time. (Information from Paula Begoun.)

I think the two products would have been better formulated had these two ingredients been left out. The Energy Tonic would have suited most skin types and the Cellular Repair Cream, with its soft and smooth texture, would have suited those with normal or dry skin.

Redefining Skin Types

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Product Review: Nude Skincare

by PJ on Tuesday, December 30, 2008

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Nude Skincare Cleansing Facial Oil)
(images from sephora.com)

Nude Skincare is a UK-based beauty brand that has generated buzz in the UK and the US. In the UK, their products are sold in high-end department stores like Harvey Nichols and beauty boutiques such as Space NK. Today I am reviewing three of their products.

– Cleansing Facial Oil

This product works in the same way as a standard cleansing oil. I tend to prefer cleansing oils to other types of cleansers because they are efficient to use. (They take off all the makeup at once and there is less rubbing and massaging involved compared with using a cleansing cream or gel.)

For me, a good cleansing oil has to emulsify well and leaves as little filmy residue as possible. Unfortunately, this cleansing oil does not fare well in this aspect. It is not easy to manoeuvre on the skin due to its thick texture and it doesn’t emulsify well enough. The skin is left rather greasy, and even using a face wash immediately afterwards still leaves the skin filmy. Overall, this is not among the better cleansing oils that I have used.

– Advanced Smoothing Complex

This is a serum-type product that is applied between a toner and a moisturizer. It has a watery-gel texture that has a good slip. Upon application, it can seem difficult to absorb, but, after some gentle pressing and patting, it sinks in quite thoroughly. It is a decent (and alcohol-free) serum to be paired with your usual moisturizer to help your skin cope with the colder months.

It is well-packaged in an air-tight opaque bottle, which is probably the best way to package a skincare product in terms of preserving the benefits of some ingredients.

– Replenishing Night Oil

It is a similar type of oil-based product to those such as DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil and the Rodial Glamotox Night that I reviewed earlier. It contains apricot kernel oil, jojoba seed oil, raspberry seed oil and cranberry seed oil. (The latter two have antioxidant properties.)

Because of its occlusive quality, it is more suitable for those with dry or very dry skin. Like Rodial Glamotox Night, it can be used as a good cuticle moisturizer or a moisture booster for any part of the body prone to severe dryness. (It is packaged in the same air-tight opaque bottle as the Advanced Smoothing Complex.)

(According to the Nude Skincare website, their products are free from parabens, mineral oils, silicones, and propylene glycol. Though this is useful information to know if you can develop adverse reaction to one or more of these ingredients, I personally do not have outright concerns over them. (Even though mineral oil in moisturizers can be too occlusive for some skin types, it is not a harmful ingredient.) Please refer to the articles/entries on parabens, mineral oil, silicone and propylene glycol on Paula Begoun‘s website.)

(Full product ingredient lists can also be found on Nude Skincare’s website.)

Makeup Review – SUQQU Eyelash Kit

by PJ on Friday, December 5, 2008

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, beauty tools/accessories, makeup, makeup - mascara, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

Since SUQQU was launched in September 2003, some products have, one after another, become the brand’s most talked-about items. Among them, one that some of you have told me about is the Eyelash Curler. Currently, it is included in SUQQU’s Eyelash Kit, which I am reviewing today.

The SUQQU Eyelash Kit includes:
– Eyelash Curler
– Mascara Volume Long in EX-01 Green
– Screw Brush
– Eye Makeup Remover (travel-sized, 50ml)

The items come in a roll-up folder, which is presented a bucket pouch. The curler doesn’t come with refills but they are available separately at the SUQQU counter.

First, the Eyelash Curler. The problem I have with eyelash curlers of this design is that they simply do not get to the two ends of my lashes, and it seems that SUQQU’s version has the same issue. The curler does give a flattering curve to the lashes and the rubber pad seems very sturdy and durable, but I have to position the curler in so many angles to get to the two ends of the lashes that it takes a lot of time to achieve a finished look. Also, my middle lashes end up being curled for too many times and the curl looks slightly less natural.

According to what I have heard in the past few years, this curler does work well for most people, but unfortunately it doesn’t perform well enough for me. I have to say I still much prefer the precision lash curler that I previously talked about. It is much more efficient to use and I can achieve a natural fan-like curve in a very short amount of time.

SUQQU has three kinds of mascaras: Volume, Long, and Volume Long. (All three are water-resistant.) The one in this kit is a Volume Long version in a limited-edition green shade. On my dark lashes, the green pigment doesn’t show up very much, but I do like the soft look and it doesn’t clash with eyeshadows of other shades. For me, this mascara, which contains fibers, does a better job at building up length than adding volume. (The Separate Curl Mascara in RMK’s Christmas Palette 2008 delivers more volume.)

The Screw Brush and Eye Makeup Remover are very good additions to the kit. The brush is surprisingly soft and separates lashes nicely. (It is also a very good eyebrow brush if you find the bristles of most eyebrow brushes to be too hard and scratchy.) The Eye Makeup Remover has a bi-phase formulation, which I always like. It takes off the Volume Long Mascara very easily, and it doesn’t feel greasy or irritate my eyes.

Overall, this is a good kit to try if you are interested in both the Eyelash Curler and the mascara. (The Kit is priced at £40, which is the prices of the two items combined.) This kit is a limited edition and is currently still available at the SUQQU counter in Selfridges on London’s Oxford Street.

SUQQU Holiday 2008 Collection

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection

Review: SUQQU Fall 2008 Collection Part 1 & Part 2

{ 4 comments }

L’Oréal De-maq Expert Makeup Remover

by PJ on Monday, September 1, 2008

in -L'Oréal, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, stash focus

(Velvet Creme Wash Expert Makeup Remover)

The De-maq Expert range is a relatively new line of cleansers from L’Oréal. I bought the Velvet Creme Wash Expert Makeup Remover last year and I have been using it on and off for a while.

It is a gel-cream makeup remover that foams somewhat like a face wash. (The main ingredients are emollients that can dissolve makeup. Decyl glucoside, a mild detergent, appears later in the list, after the emollients, water, and glycerin.) The direction on the back says, “Apply a small amount of Velvet Creme to damp skin using your fingertips. Gently massage into a creamy lather to foam and then rinse with water.”

It doesn’t really foam up in my hands like a face wash does, but it does slowly lather up as I apply it and gently massage my face. The lather is very cushiony and is not the kind of frothy/bubbly lather from an usual face wash. It dissolves the foundation quite quickly.

(When I don’t use a cleansing oil, I almost always use a bi-phase cleanser to remove my eye/lip makeup first. Like how I tested waterproof mascara removal with Dior’s Cleansing Gelee, I put Maybelline’s Volum’ Express Waterproof on the back of my hand, waited for it to dry up, and tried to remove it. I found that it did take a lot of massaging to dissolve the mascara.)

It takes more water to rinse than normal foaming face washes, but, as a cream cleanser, it rinses fine. There is still minimal emollient residue, and I usually use a face wash (with one-third of the amount I use in the morning) right afterwards.

Overall, I like it and don’t like it at the same time. I like it because it does do the job for me while not irritating my skin and it doesn’t drag my skin like many cream cleansers do during the massaging (mainly because it foams gently). But, what sometimes bothers me is how heavily scented it is. There are times when I can still smell the cleanser after using a face wash and having a shower. It is a little unsettling as I feel that I haven’t rinsed it off thoroughly, although it is clearly not the case.

I have still been using it alternately with my trusted RMK Cleansing Oil N (partly to save cost, since RMK Cleansing Oil N is about three times more expensive), but, as a cream-based cleanser, I think I slightly prefer Dior’s Cleansing Gelee mentioned earlier.

Johnson’s Eye Makeup Remover

Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid

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Dior Cleansing Gelee for Face, Lips, and Eyes

by PJ on Monday, July 28, 2008

in -Dior, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Dior Cleansing Gelee for Face, Lips and Eyes)

I have disliked almost all the cleansing creams that I have tried. Most of them either are too thick to manoeuvre (too much massaging involved) and/or leave some greasy residue. But Dior‘s Cleansing Gelee for Face, Lips and Eyes is one of the very few cream-based cleansers that I like. (I used a couple of 7ml trial samples before and I was glad to get a 50ml one from a gift with purchase.)

It has a very pleasant light-cream texture. With minimal massaging, it melts into a watery lotion consistency. It rinses off nicely and does not leave a greasy film. I still use a little bit of face wash after that, but I’d think some people probably don’t need that extra step as the cleanser does leave the skin quite refreshed.

It did remove lipstick and waterproof mascara when I tested it on the back of my hand (I tested it on Maybelline Volum’ Express Waterproof), but I usually still use an eye/lip makeup remover before using any cleansing gel/cream. (I don’t like any massaging/rubbing in my eye/lip area.)

This product is alcohol-free but contains fragrance.

Generally, I still prefer a cleansing oil, which is quick and easy to use and removes everything at one go. But if you are looking for a light gel/cream-based makeup remover for this summer (and are not sensitive to fragrance), this can be a good candidate.

Can’t Live Without – RMK Cleansing Oil N

Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash

Johnson’s Eye Makeup Remover

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My Current Staple: Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash

by PJ on Wednesday, June 4, 2008

in -Simple, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash)

In my post on RMK’s Cleansing Oil N, I mentioned that I used a face wash after the cleansing oil. In the last few years, I have used (foaming) face washes from Chanel, Lancôme, L’Oréal, Nivea, and Johnson’s. After the Johnson’s one was discontinued (at least here in the UK) last year, I went through a mini-hunt for my next staple face wash.

(One of my favorite face washes is Lancôme’s Gel Clarté. But, it costs 17.5 GBP (for 125ml) and lasts about 5 weeks for me, so I’d rather go for a cheaper alternative, which is not impossible to find.)

Among the several face washes I picked up, two were from Simple, which is a UK drugstore skincare brand available in major chains like Boots and Superdrug. (It doesn’t seem to be available outside the UK, but I might be wrong.) I had never tried their products before, but the Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash (2.79 GBP for 150ml) impressed me.

It is a straightforward and gimmick-free face wash that gets the job done, and it happens to be fragrance-free and colourant-free. It has a fluidy gel consistency and it foams and rinses very well. (The main cleansing agents in this product are, as in the order on the ingredient list, sodium laureth sulfate, decyl glucoside, and cocamidopropyl betaine.)

What I like the most about this face wash is that, after I rinse it off, I simply feel nothing. No tightness, filminess, or slipperiness. The face feels well-cleansed, fresh, and not stripped. (I much prefer this to the other Simple’s face wash I tried, Refreshing Facial Wash Gel, which feels a little filmy after rinsing.)

This is very suitable for my oily-dry skin, and I have been using it both in the morning and the evening (after the cleansing oil if I wear makeup for the day). (When I use it after the cleansing oil, I only use 1/3 of the amount I use in the morning.) I think this face wash will suit people with most skin types (apart from those with very dry skin).

My other current daily skincare products:

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

Olay Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Product Review – Johnson’s Baby Lightoil Spray & Eye Makeup Remover

by PJ on Saturday, May 10, 2008

in bodycare, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Make-up Remover)

Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Makeup Remover

Most of the time, I use a cleansing oil to remove my makeup all at once, including waterproof mascara. (I am currently using RMK’s Cleansing Oil N.) But when I play with my eyeshadows and don’t have a full face of makeup, I use an eye makeup remover before the usual face wash.

I almost always use bi-phase eye makeup removers. I’ve had good experiences with them as I like their efficiency and gentleness. Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Makeup Remover is no exception. It removes waterproof mascara efficiently and thoroughly. (I tested it with Maybelline’s Volum’ Express Waterproof.)

I also like how this makeup remover is dispensed. The hole is small enough and I can gently squeeze the bottle to dispense exactly the amount I want. Also, I personally don’t feel that this product leaves the skin dry or greasy, which is a plus. Overall I think this is a very effective and user-friendly cleansing product.

(John’s Baby Lightoil Spray)

Johnson’s Baby Lightoil Spray

I think most of you have tried or tested the original John’s Baby Oil. I have used it as a body moisturizer and even as a makeup removing oil. (I simply used it as a tissue-off cleansing oil and followed with a face-wash.)

If you like the simple and skin-friendly formulation of the original Baby Oil but think the texture is too greasy, then the Lightoil Spray is worth considering. Unlike the original formula, it actually does not contain mineral oil. Its main ingredients are water, glycerine, and polysorbates (fatty acids used as emollients). The watery texture is indeed substantially lighter, and it absorbs well and moisturizes the skin effectively. (The two products have the same scent.)

It comes with a spray nozzle, but it can be a little slippery to use. I usually remove it and pour the oil in my hand during application.

Even though the texture is a lot lighter than the original Baby Oil, I would still say a little goes a long way. An overzealous application will still leave a little shine on the skin that some people might not like. I would recommend this to people with dry (but not very dry) skin who are not sensitive to fragrance.

Can’t Live Without – Dove Body Silk
(my favorite body moisturizer)

E45 Endless Moisture Bodycare Range
(featuring two body moisturizers)

Prescriptives Better Off Fast Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover
(another bi-phase eye makeup remover)

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Skincare Review: Crème de la Mer

by PJ on Friday, April 25, 2008

in -Crème de la Mer, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

After the review of the loose powder from Crème de la Mer two weeks ago, today I am reviewing three skincare products from the brand.

Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid

This is basically a cleansing oil, like those from Shu Uemura, DHC, and RMK. However, I would like it more if it were simply a cleansing oil and nothing else.

This cleansing oil contains tourmaline, pearl powder, mica, and titanium dioxide, which act as mild exfoliants in this product. If you like constant exfoliation done mildly on a regular basis and want to save time, perhaps this two-in-one product, which cleanses relatively effectively, might be worth considering. (On a minor note, the texture is slightly on the thick side, somewhere close to DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil.)

However, for me, I am not sure I would exfoliate my face when there is still makeup on. Also, after using this for the third time during one week, my face was a little red after rising off the cleansing oil. If you have sensitive skin that doesn’t handle regular exfoliation well, then this cleansing oil might not be for you.

(Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial

This exfoliator has a dense and creamy texture. The physical exfoliating particles are fine enough not to irritate my skin. (I use extremely gentle large circular motions.)

The creamy texture is mainly down to kaolin, which is often used in deep-cleansing masks for its absorbent properties. After using it, if you find your complexion suddenly becomes much and almost unnaturally brighter, it is not because tourmaline and diamond powder have buffed off the dead skin cells. It is because you haven’t rinsed off the kaolin properly.

The white cast looks like the kind from a high-SPF sunscreen product (with physical sunscreen ingredients). I find that it is not easy to rinse it off completely, and extra care needs to be taken to make sure that it is fully removed. (I use a wet cotton pad for extra help.) I certainly don’t want clay on my skin before applying other skincare products.

Overall, I find this exfoliator satisfactory but not outstanding. Also, please note that it contains spearmint and lime extracts, which can be skin irritants.

(Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion

This is essentially a lighter version of the original Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream. The texture is definitely lighter, and it goes on and spreads more easily.

But this is still a very occlusive moisturizer, with petrolatum (vaseline) and shea butter high on the ingredient list. Even though it is lighter than the original cream and absorbs slightly better, it is still not suitable for people with normal-to-oily and oily skin. People with dry skin would probably find it more pleasant to use.

This product contains a small amount of niacin (niacinamide), which is vitamin B3 and has shown to increase ceramide and fatty acid levels in the skin. (Please check out the link to see niacinamide’s entry on Paula Begoun’s ingredient dictionary.) However, niacin is far down on the ingredient list and it is after lime extract, which can be a skin irritant.

(If you are interested in what niacinamide can do for your skin, several products from Olay contain niacinamide as one of the major ingredients, including Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid and Complete Care Night Enriched Cream.)

10 Golden Skincare Rule

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series

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Skincare Review: Marie Chantal Rose Signature Line

by PJ on Friday, March 21, 2008

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Marie Chantal Rose Lotion)

Marie Chantal is a line of essential oils and handmade skincare products. From the ingredient lists of the two items I am reviewing below, it is easy to see how they differ from many items sold in drugstores and department stores.

The two moisturizers in the Rose Signature range, Rose Lotion and Rose Cream, have very simple ingredient lists which do not feature a staggering number of ingredients. (You can check the Marie Chantal website for product ingredient lists.) Generally, for people with sensitive skin, the fewer the ingredients in a skincare product, the better. The fact that they are alcohol-free is also a huge plus for people with sensitive or very dry skin.

(Marie Chantal Rose Cream)

They are also free from parabens and other preservatives, and, according to the website, contain many organic ingredients.

The Rose Lotion has a rich lotion consistency, while the Rose Cream has a very rich texture. Both spread easily and have a gorgeous rose scent.

However, for me personally, even though they absorb relatively well, they didn’t quench my face effectively enough. I suspect that the reason is that both of them have plenty of occlusive moisturizing ingredients like shea butter and rosehip seed oil (which seal in the moisture) while the humectant moisturizing ingredient, glycerin (which can absorb moisture from the air), is further down the list. In many cases, such moisturizers leave my skin supple to the touch but I can feel the dryness and tightness underneath. (There is not enough moisture for the occlusive ingredients to seal in, even after I cleanse and tone my face.)

The kinds of moisturizers that suit me better have a little more humecants than occlusives. (I have oily-dry skin.) Whenever I come across a predominantly occlusive moisturizer, I use it as what I call a “top-up” moisturizer. It means I use it very sparingly on top of my usual moisturizer when the weather is particularly cold and dry and only on the cheeks where more emollients are needed. These two moisturizers work better for me this way, and the fact that they have very simple ingredient lists means I am not loading too many extra ingredients onto my sensitive skin.

Overall, the Rose Lotion and Rose Cream by Marie Chantal have many objective assets, but, just like any other moisturizer, the combination of various types of moisturizing ingredients might not suit all people.

(If you are wondering what ingredients are classified as occlusives/humectants, one article worth checking out is 15 Minute Beauty Fanatic’s post on moisturizer basics.)

Lancôme Tonique Douceur
(my favorite toner at the moment)

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream
(light but very moisturizing)

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s all try to stick to them.)

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Refreshing and Calming – Lancôme Tonique Douceur

by PJ on Tuesday, February 12, 2008

in -Lancôme, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, stash focus

(Lancôme Tonique Douceur)

Since I have quite sensitive skin, I think I am rather picky about what skincare products to use.

Just like makeup, old favorites get discontinued and we look through new candidates. I used to love Shu Uemura’s Refreshing Lotion, but it was discontinued a couple of years ago. After I used up my last bottle, the audition process started again.

Although there are a couple of toners I really like from Japanese brands not available in the UK, when it comes to skincare products, I tend to use what is available locally. It makes shopping (and restocking) a little easier.

I think Lancôme‘s Tonique Douceur has been around ever since I started to be interested in cosmetics. I am not sure if the formula has ever changed, but when I tried samples of it in the past, I did like them. After comparing it with a couple of others just to be sure, I decided to settle on Tonique Douceur.

It is alcohol-free and has a light, soothing, and refreshing feel. (I don’t really like toners with a serum-y texture or those that leave a slippery film on the skin.) I find that it eases up the mild redness of my skin and helps the skin look clearer and more transparent.

Also, the ingredient list is shorter than those of a lot of other toners I have come across. For people with sensitive skin, the fewer ingredients applied on the skin, the better.

After water and glycerin, rosa centifolia flower (rose hip) water is third on the ingredient list. According to Paula Begoun’s Cosmetics Ingredient Dictionary, rose hip has antioxidant properties. It is a pity that the toner is packaged in a transparent toner. Otherwise the antioxidant properties would last longer.

I usually don’t use cotton balls or cotton pads when applying a toner. I dispense 4 or 5 drops of a toner, spread them across my palms, and gently pat the toner onto the skin. (I put Tonique Douceur in another bottle with a pump dispenser so I don’t accidentally pour too much out.) During the application, I also like to cover my cheeks and eyes with my palms and do some deep breathing. I find it very calming.

Overall this is a toner that really suits my slightly sensitive skin, and the fact that I don’t use cotton balls/pads also makes a 200ml bottle go a long way.

(Please note that Tonique Douceur contains fragrance and preservatives. Do make sure you read through the ingredient list if you have relevant concerns.)

Related Posts:

Other steps of my skincare routine:

Makeup remover

Daytime Moisturizer

Nighttime Moisturizer

Lip Balm

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