(Raycious Case Assembly)

I have talked about why I love Raycious foundations in an earlier post, so I won’t be going there today. (But mainly, it features fine blue-based particles that even out sallowness and redness to make skin bright and alive.)

Today it is all about all the cases since Raycious was launched in 2000. Each year, the foundation formulation changes slightly, and so does the case design.

I have been collecting these cases throughout the years. (I don’t have all the different foundations. The refills fit all the cases apart from the very first edition.)

Here we go!

The 1st-generation Raycious was launched in 2000. It is probably still the best-selling edition to date. This simple case is also my favorite. I also love this shade of blue. (You can see the difference above in the photo.) All the lines are slightly curved. Very subtly elegant. (This is the only Raycious case for a round refill, which, by the way, fits Anna Sui foundation cases as well.)

(Raycious 2000)
Riding on the success of the original Raycious, the 2nd-generation was launched in 2001.
(Raycious 2001)

It has a very reflective sheet in the lid. It is very shiny and colorful when I play it around the light:


The back of the lid can be opened:


I remember this sheet was given to purchasing customers in a very limited period of time:


This pattern was downloaded from the Sofina website in 2001:


You can put anything in the lid. For example, now I am doing some shameless self-promotion:


Onto 2002…the case has a minimal look:

(Raycious 2002)

Cell phone charms can be attached to the back:



The Raycious 2003 case is gadget-free and features soothing patterns:

(Raycious 2003)
It is quite a cutie!

Tomorrow I’ll come back with the ones from 2004 to 2007. You will have a closer look at the one with a three-way mirror. See you then!!

(See the cases from 2004 to 2007!)

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The "Bring Back Sephora" Campaign

by PJ on Thursday, August 16, 2007

in _Bring It Back, announcement

Bring_back_sephora

(Click on link to sign the petition.)


Oh…Sephora…why did you leave us in the UK?

There were several Sephora stores in the UK, but they all disappeared in 2005…and I miss them!!

Charlotte at Kiss and Makeup has started a “Bring Back Sephora” campaign. You can simply click on the banner above and sign the petition. (It really just takes about 10 seconds…)

It doesn’t matter where you are. Please support us! (Imagine how you might feel if the Sephora shops where you are all disappear suddenly…)

It might not make a huge difference, but we want the voice to be heard!

(At least, like Charlotte said, a Sephora.co.uk would be a great addition!)

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Some distinctive trends in the fall 2007 makeup releases:

– olive green / grey eyeshadows
– intense lip colors

– retro Audrey Hepburn look

Which trend are you going to experiment with this fall?

—Grey Areas—————

In fashion, grey has been hailed as The New Black for a while. I am surprised that it didn’t trickle down to makeup earlier. This fall, grey eyeshadows will be big, among all the neutral tones.

One palette that epitomizes this trend is Shiseido Clé de Peau‘s Ombres Couleurs Quadri palette in 114 (seen below):

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p. 152-153)

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p.152)

Also, Dior‘s 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in 060 Silver Goddess features an array of grey hues along with a sensual light blue.

Other servings of grey eyeshadows:

-Shiseido Maquillage: Sparkle Contrast Eyes 2 GY851

-Majolica Majorca: Shadow Customize BK922
-Kate: Gradical Eyes S BK-1
-Integrate: Live Fix Eyes GY812
SUQQU: Blend Eyeshadow 04

In a way, grey (especially in metallic finishes) is simply a darker silver. The look reminds me of an old-school silver-screen goddess. Very nostalgic and glamorous.

—Green with Envy—————

Another trendy color this season is olive green. Paired with pink, olive green is featured in Lush & Lovely, Chanel fall 2007 makeup collection, as it appears in the latest eyeshadow palettes: Garden Party (Les 4 Ombres Quadra) and Lotus-Cactus (Irréelle Duo).

(photo: from Chanel
at www.bergdorfgoodman.com)

Also, YSL fall 2007 makeup collection features olive green eyeshadows in a couple of the new Ombres Duo Lumières palettes.

In Japanese cosmetics, Cosme Decorte’s new line, Magie Deco, uses pink and olive green in the opposite way, with olive green above the eyes and pink along the lower lash line:

(Magie Deco ad, backcover of makeup booklet,
Biteki September 2007)

Apart from Magie Deco, olive green eyeshadows are also used in:

Kate‘s fall 2007 TV ad (with Gradical Eyes S GN-1)
SUQQU‘s fall 2007 printed ad (with Blend Eyeshadow 01).

Olive green seems to be a relatively masculine color as an eyeshadow, which might be why it has been paired with pink to create a balanced look. But, worn alone, it can be very edgy.

—A La Audrey—————

Givenchy‘s fall 2007 collection, Camouflage Chic, pays tribute to the classic Givenchy muse, Audrey Hepburn. A search in Google Images comes out with photos of what I think is one of the most beautiful people ever, with clean, crisp, and defined eye makeup. Intense color fills between the lash line and the crease line and it is kept clean everywhere else. No smoky eyes here.

Givenchy’s latest Prismissime Eyes in 54 Cache Cache can get you this classic look:

(photo: from www.sephora.com)

Shiseido The Makeup‘s new Silky Eye Shadow Quad in Q9 Lunar Phases is based on the same trend.

Again, this is definitely a very retro look. I think “Less is more” is the key here. Don’t overdo it and keep it nice and simple.

—Strong Lips—————

What if you don’t want to pile on intense eye colors? You can channel the intensity to the lips. Keep the eye makeup fuss-free and choose a rich satiny (not glossy) lip shade. The cover of Biteki September 2007 shows how it’s done:

(cover of Biteki, September 2007)

It can be a wine red, berry red (as in the Chanel ad above), or a warm brownish red. With careful coordination, they can go with grey or olive green eyeshadows, as in Estee Lauder’s fall 2007 look:

(photo: from esteelauder.co.uk)


I quite like this look. Chic and timeless.

What other trends have you spotted?

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(My all-time favorite fragrance:
Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert )



First, let me indulge myself and take you through the Bulgari world…


It is a brand that appeals to me on so, so many levels.

Its jewelry is bold and striking but classic and elegant. The contrasts are sublimely complimentary. I can’t imagine anything more beautiful than the Sapphire Flower Collection. (Do have a look through the link above and through Jewels -> Collections -> Sapphire Flower.)

(the cover of the Bulgari jewelry catalog 2005/2006,
featuring a necklace from the Sapphire Flower Collection)

(the front cover/in-fold and back cover of the catalog)

Bulgari’s hotels in Milan and Bali (not that I have been there) look…familiar. I have seen them in my dreams, I think. It is as if the architects and interior designers knew me. Angular and masculine, but somehow feminine and cozy. Again, I love contrasts that gel together.

The staff in Bulgari boutiques are so polite, friendly, and professional, even though all I have done is marvel at the shining things I can’t afford and, once or twice, picked up a fragrance. If I ever have the good fortune and privilege to afford something luxurious, I will not look anywhere else.

I am wearing Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert as I am writing this. It is Bulgari’s first attempt, back in 1992, to enter the world of fine fragrance, and it is still very popular today. With notes from green tea, lemon, orange, lily, rose, and coriander, it is fresh, uplifting, straightforward, and uniquely romantic. It is my perfect daytime scent.

(I love the design of the bottles as well.)

Also, I am wearing it because I am trying to remind myself of the wonderful sensation I got from their skincare line, HydraThé Vitalisant, in which all the items were infused with my favorite scent.

(the Bulgari skincare calalog)

(the Bulgari HydraThé Vitalisant skincare line-up,
from the catalog)

One of my favorite items is Neutralizing Cleansing Gel. Price-wise, it was as expensive as cleansers from Chanel and Dior, but this foamed so incredibly well with so little amount that no other cleanser has lasted longer.

(Bulgari HydraThé Vitalisant Neutralizing Cleansing Gel,
from the catalog)

As for makeup, I don’t think many people remember that Bulgari used to have foundations. (I think the whole skincare/foundation line was discontinued soon after the foundation was launched.) I happen to have samples of Total Performance Cream Foundation SPF 15 PA ++. They will always be part of my Permanent Collection.


(samples of Bulgari Total Performance Cream Foundation)

Unfortunately the line was discontinued several years ago. There are still websites that carry some of the products, but I am simply not interested because the stock must be very old.

Back in June, I planned to write about Bulgari Skincare for my Bring It Back! series. (Two more are planned for September and October.) Interestingly, a few days ago, I was surprised and delighted to find on Women’s Wear Daily that Bulgari will release a new skincare line!

After some brief googling, I found a post on Fashionese Daily (with a photo of part of the line) and another one on CCP Management Consultants Ltd. blog (with some relevant background information). In summary, the line will be launched in October and will only be available in Italy until next year, and there are no plans at the moment to expand the line into color cosmetics. (But I shall remain hopeful.)

I don’t think I will find my favorite scent in the upcoming skincare line, but I am still eagerly waiting for Bulgari to appeal to me on yet another level……

Related Posts:
My Fragrance Favorites
Sheer Stella 2007
Bring It Back: Calvin Klein Makeup, Cynthia Rowley, and Helena Rubinstein

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The Weekend Beauty Read

by PJ on Saturday, August 11, 2007

in Weekend Beauty Read

From The Beauty Blog Network:

All Lacquered Up: OPI Russian collection

Beauty and Fashion Tech: Sunscreen Week

Canadian Beauty: Emporio Armani Diamonds

Elke Von Freudenberg: Elke’s Fav Lip Gloss

Hello Dollface: New From Tarte

Lipstick, Powder ‘n Paint:
New and Exciting Fragrance from AVON!

Makeup Moxie:
Complete Drugstore Mineral Foundation Reviews and Rankings

Makeup and Beauty Blog: Rimmel Light Beam After Dark Lipgloss

Indieperfumes: Niche Perfumers

Happy Weekend!!

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(Is the dilemma necessary?)

More and more of us savvy customers know that high price does not necessarily equal high quality. But why are some products getting more and more expensive?

From the marketing point of view, price range and targeted consumer group almost define each other. High-end products (which are getting “higher” all the time) will always have a specific arena to thrive.

But, from a personal point of view, a perfect skincare product for someone, regardless of age, gender, or skin-type, can simply be from any price range. As long as we have the adequate knowledge, the rest is mere preference.

I don’t necessarily see anything wrong with going for a relatively expensive moisturizer if it happens to be a well-formulated product that has a consistency, texture, and aroma that suit or appeal to someone. A good moisturizer will indeed hydrate the skin, improve its feel and texture, maintain its good condition, and delay the appearance of signs of aging.

However, I think it is wrong to assume, believe, or dream that a fancy and pricey face cream will permanently erase any wrinkle or lift any part of our faces. (That is what plastic surgery is for.) Many cosmetics companies know how dreams and promises are worth, and they are putting them on the price tags and touting them with provocative but ambiguous language.

I remain skeptical of the word “anti-aging” as a marketing term. An enduringly successful marketing term as it has proven to be, the word itself can be rather misleading. It creates a whole new genre of skincare products, but, unfortunately, some of them are shockingly redundant.

It is a blessing to able to have and afford choices, but let’s all know more about what we are paying for…

Catch up with previous posts in A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series:

5-1: Wisdom from Mom
5-2: Top of the Chart
5-3: The Only Words You Need to Know
5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend


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Some time ago I read the article What Makes a State-of-the-Art Moisturizer? on Paula Begoun‘s website.

I urge everyone to read it. Clear, concise, jargon-free, and informative, it has all we need to know about moisturizers.

In summary of her article, a top-of-the-notch moisturizer, by today’s standard, should include these ingredients:

–ingredients that mimic the structure of the skin
–anti-irritants

–anti-oxidants

–cell-communicating ingredients

–emollients

–sunscreen ingredients (for daytime moisturizers)

I will leave you to have a look at the article to see exactly what these ingredients are and what they do for our skin.

With this knowledge, we don’t necessarily need others (sales assistants, celebrities in TV adverts,…) to tell us what product works. (It doesn’t have to be any of Paula’s products.) We can all make a sound judgment on our own and pick out products that are superior to others wherever we do our skincare shopping.

Concluding tomorrow: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse…

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They are:

-zinc oxide
-titanium dioxide
-avobenzone
(aka Parsol 1789
or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
-Mexoryl SX
-Tinosorb

Each of these ingredients protects against UVA, which has been proven to cause signs of aging and skin cancer.

On your next shopping trip for a daytime sunscreen moisturizer, if you don’t see any of those on the ingredient list as an active ingredient*, put it back. You’ll be surprised at how many moisturizers that claim to offer UV protection actually don’t have any of these ingredients. These products are simply not suitable for daytime use alone and will have to be paired with a proper sunscreen product.

Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin (featured yesterday) is a great daytime moisturizer because:

1. It has butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as an anti-UVA ingredient.

2. It includes anti-oxidants such as grape seed extract and rosemary extract.

3. The product is housed in an opaque bottle and is dispensed with a pumper, so the anti-oxidants don’t lose their benefits due to exposure to light and air.

During daytime, UV protection is really all we need. The rest is just a plus.

In Japanese skincare and foundation products, a PA marking (ranging from PA+ to PA++++) specifies the level of UVA protection alongside the SPF marking (which only indicates UVB protection). For example, Sofina’s Very Very UV Cut Milk has the “SPF 24 , PA+++” marking.

This is standard practice in Japanese cosmetics, and I hope more western brands would adopt a similar system. This will definitely raise the awareness of proper sun protection, which is the most vital part of anti-aging skincare.

Tomorrow: Five pillars of a great all-round moisturizer.

*If the list does not indicate what the active ingredients are, at least it has to be close to the top of the full ingredient list. (The ingredients are listed roughly in the order of the percentages they occupy in the formulation.)

Related Posts:

Anti-Aging Week 5-1: Wisdom from Mom

Anti-Aging Week 5-2: Top of the Chart

Anti-Aging Week 5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend

Anti-Aging Week 5-5: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse

Sunscreen Basics

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(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Normal/Combination Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

Britain’s How to Look Good Naked is Extreme Makeover without the knife. It is about dressing right for every body-type, a healthy lifestyle, and body-image confidence. It is also one of the very few prime-time TV programs in the UK that touch upon skin/hair/body care.

Each week (during the second series) they presented the result of a consumer trial. In their anti-aging moisturizer test, Estée Lauder’s DayWear Plus SPF 15 topped the chart.

To me, this result is immensely interesting in two ways. Firstly, as far as I know, DayWear Plus has never been marketed as an anti-aging moisturizer. (It is not in the anti-aging category on Estée Lauder’s website either.) But I am glad that it was included in the test, because I have always believed that, so far, sunscreen products with UVA and UVB protection are the only truly anti-aging products.

Secondly, I have been using DayWear Plus for years. I used the original DayWear for a while and I switched to the oily-skin version (seen below) when it came out. This lighter version is moisturizing (without being greasy), features anti-UVA and UVB ingredients, and serves as a good makeup primer. (Now I alternate between this and Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid, which has the same assets.)

(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Oily Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

The test in the program is by no means exhaustive. Only four moisturizers were chosen, based on a wide range of prices and general popularity. But it is great to see one of my favorite moisturizers beat the others, which all claim to have anti-aging properties.

Read the rest of the articles in my Anti-Aging Series!

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My mother rarely wears makeup. She doesn’t need it. In fact, I think she looks the best with no makeup.

She will turn 60 in a couple of years and she has very dry skin. But she always looks wonderful and younger than her childhood friends of similar ages.

There is absolutely no secret to her radiantly dewy complexion, but I’ve always observed that–

–She rarely stays up.

–She is one of the most positive and stress-free people I know.

–She eats a wide range of fruits and vegetables every day. (When I was growing up, I had to eat at least two kinds of fruits every day apart from the usual meals, which were already packed with veggies.)

–She loves walking, cycling, and line-dancing.

She never buys expensive skincare products. (Olay and Nivea are her usual choices.) But she uses sunscreen every single day. At night, Vaseline Petroleum Jelly is one of her staples for her very dry skin.

–She doesn’t smoke.

–She drinks a bit of red wine (about one-third of a glass) every now and then, which is probably the healthiest possible way to consume alcohol. (Some research showed that it is better than totally avoiding alcohol.)

For me, “anti-aging” is not just a word written on skincare products. It is written on fresh fruit, a good night’s sleep, running shoes, and relaxing laughter. (Most of my 10 Golden Skincare Rules are reflections of my mother’s lifestyle habits.)

Tomorrow: an “anti-aging” moisturizer that tops a consumer test in the UK

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