(Is the dilemma necessary?)

More and more of us savvy customers know that high price does not necessarily equal high quality. But why are some products getting more and more expensive?

From the marketing point of view, price range and targeted consumer group almost define each other. High-end products (which are getting “higher” all the time) will always have a specific arena to thrive.

But, from a personal point of view, a perfect skincare product for someone, regardless of age, gender, or skin-type, can simply be from any price range. As long as we have the adequate knowledge, the rest is mere preference.

I don’t necessarily see anything wrong with going for a relatively expensive moisturizer if it happens to be a well-formulated product that has a consistency, texture, and aroma that suit or appeal to someone. A good moisturizer will indeed hydrate the skin, improve its feel and texture, maintain its good condition, and delay the appearance of signs of aging.

However, I think it is wrong to assume, believe, or dream that a fancy and pricey face cream will permanently erase any wrinkle or lift any part of our faces. (That is what plastic surgery is for.) Many cosmetics companies know how dreams and promises are worth, and they are putting them on the price tags and touting them with provocative but ambiguous language.

I remain skeptical of the word “anti-aging” as a marketing term. An enduringly successful marketing term as it has proven to be, the word itself can be rather misleading. It creates a whole new genre of skincare products, but, unfortunately, some of them are shockingly redundant.

It is a blessing to able to have and afford choices, but let’s all know more about what we are paying for…

Catch up with previous posts in A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series:

5-1: Wisdom from Mom
5-2: Top of the Chart
5-3: The Only Words You Need to Know
5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend


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Some time ago I read the article What Makes a State-of-the-Art Moisturizer? on Paula Begoun‘s website.

I urge everyone to read it. Clear, concise, jargon-free, and informative, it has all we need to know about moisturizers.

In summary of her article, a top-of-the-notch moisturizer, by today’s standard, should include these ingredients:

–ingredients that mimic the structure of the skin
–anti-irritants

–anti-oxidants

–cell-communicating ingredients

–emollients

–sunscreen ingredients (for daytime moisturizers)

I will leave you to have a look at the article to see exactly what these ingredients are and what they do for our skin.

With this knowledge, we don’t necessarily need others (sales assistants, celebrities in TV adverts,…) to tell us what product works. (It doesn’t have to be any of Paula’s products.) We can all make a sound judgment on our own and pick out products that are superior to others wherever we do our skincare shopping.

Concluding tomorrow: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse…

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They are:

-zinc oxide
-titanium dioxide
-avobenzone
(aka Parsol 1789
or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
-Mexoryl SX
-Tinosorb

Each of these ingredients protects against UVA, which has been proven to cause signs of aging and skin cancer.

On your next shopping trip for a daytime sunscreen moisturizer, if you don’t see any of those on the ingredient list as an active ingredient*, put it back. You’ll be surprised at how many moisturizers that claim to offer UV protection actually don’t have any of these ingredients. These products are simply not suitable for daytime use alone and will have to be paired with a proper sunscreen product.

Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin (featured yesterday) is a great daytime moisturizer because:

1. It has butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as an anti-UVA ingredient.

2. It includes anti-oxidants such as grape seed extract and rosemary extract.

3. The product is housed in an opaque bottle and is dispensed with a pumper, so the anti-oxidants don’t lose their benefits due to exposure to light and air.

During daytime, UV protection is really all we need. The rest is just a plus.

In Japanese skincare and foundation products, a PA marking (ranging from PA+ to PA++++) specifies the level of UVA protection alongside the SPF marking (which only indicates UVB protection). For example, Sofina’s Very Very UV Cut Milk has the “SPF 24 , PA+++” marking.

This is standard practice in Japanese cosmetics, and I hope more western brands would adopt a similar system. This will definitely raise the awareness of proper sun protection, which is the most vital part of anti-aging skincare.

Tomorrow: Five pillars of a great all-round moisturizer.

*If the list does not indicate what the active ingredients are, at least it has to be close to the top of the full ingredient list. (The ingredients are listed roughly in the order of the percentages they occupy in the formulation.)

Related Posts:

Anti-Aging Week 5-1: Wisdom from Mom

Anti-Aging Week 5-2: Top of the Chart

Anti-Aging Week 5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend

Anti-Aging Week 5-5: Sagging Skin vs. Thinning Purse

Sunscreen Basics

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(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Normal/Combination Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

Britain’s How to Look Good Naked is Extreme Makeover without the knife. It is about dressing right for every body-type, a healthy lifestyle, and body-image confidence. It is also one of the very few prime-time TV programs in the UK that touch upon skin/hair/body care.

Each week (during the second series) they presented the result of a consumer trial. In their anti-aging moisturizer test, Estée Lauder’s DayWear Plus SPF 15 topped the chart.

To me, this result is immensely interesting in two ways. Firstly, as far as I know, DayWear Plus has never been marketed as an anti-aging moisturizer. (It is not in the anti-aging category on Estée Lauder’s website either.) But I am glad that it was included in the test, because I have always believed that, so far, sunscreen products with UVA and UVB protection are the only truly anti-aging products.

Secondly, I have been using DayWear Plus for years. I used the original DayWear for a while and I switched to the oily-skin version (seen below) when it came out. This lighter version is moisturizing (without being greasy), features anti-UVA and UVB ingredients, and serves as a good makeup primer. (Now I alternate between this and Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid, which has the same assets.)

(Estée Lauder DayWear Plus
Multi Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme SPF 15

for Oily Skin)

(Photo from esteelauder.co.uk)

The test in the program is by no means exhaustive. Only four moisturizers were chosen, based on a wide range of prices and general popularity. But it is great to see one of my favorite moisturizers beat the others, which all claim to have anti-aging properties.

Read the rest of the articles in my Anti-Aging Series!

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My mother rarely wears makeup. She doesn’t need it. In fact, I think she looks the best with no makeup.

She will turn 60 in a couple of years and she has very dry skin. But she always looks wonderful and younger than her childhood friends of similar ages.

There is absolutely no secret to her radiantly dewy complexion, but I’ve always observed that–

–She rarely stays up.

–She is one of the most positive and stress-free people I know.

–She eats a wide range of fruits and vegetables every day. (When I was growing up, I had to eat at least two kinds of fruits every day apart from the usual meals, which were already packed with veggies.)

–She loves walking, cycling, and line-dancing.

—She never buys expensive skincare products. (Olay and Nivea are her usual choices.) But she uses sunscreen every single day. At night, Vaseline Petroleum Jelly is one of her staples for her very dry skin.

–She doesn’t smoke.

–She drinks a bit of red wine (about one-third of a glass) every now and then, which is probably the healthiest possible way to consume alcohol. (Some research showed that it is better than totally avoiding alcohol.)

For me, “anti-aging” is not just a word written on skincare products. It is written on fresh fruit, a good night’s sleep, running shoes, and relaxing laughter. (Most of my 10 Golden Skincare Rules are reflections of my mother’s lifestyle habits.)

Tomorrow: an “anti-aging” moisturizer that tops a consumer test in the UK

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Since I started this blog, I have not touched upon a hot topic: anti-aging skincare.

This will be my focus throughout next week. All the five posts (one for each day, from Monday to Friday) will be about the idea of anti-aging. Here is a preview:

—You’ll read about what my mother does to keep her skin healthy, radiant, and dewy and to keep her looking younger than her (jealous) school friends.

—You’ll read about a moisturizer that tops a consumer test in a popular British TV program and why I have been using it for years. (It is not Boots No. 7’s Protect & Perfect (named Restore & Renew in the US).)

—You’ll read about what I refer to when I choose moisturizers and about relations between price and quality.

I am not a skincare expert, but there are simple things I believe in and I look forward to hearing what you think next week!

(Do subscribe to my e-mail updates so you won’t miss out!)

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The Weekend Beauty Read

by PJ on Friday, August 3, 2007

in Weekend Beauty Read

From The Beauty Blog Network:

Beautynomics: Kiss My Face Whenever, Wherever Conditioner

Canadian Beauty: Makeup Artist Makeup

Face Candy: Face Candy Contest Extended!

Lipstick, Powder ‘n Paint:
Lipstick, Powder ‘n Paint’s Summer Bag Basics

Makeup Moxie’s Beauty Blog:
Nivea Visage Sun-Kissed Facial Moisturizer

Makeup and Beauty Blog:
Salon Grafix Spray Powder Shampoo for Brunette Shades

Mystical Beauty’s Musings: Milani’s French Manicure Nail Lacquer

Sarah’s Surprises: Cocoa Bombs

The Mineral Makeup:
What’s New with Valerie Beauty Mineral Makeup

Have a great weekend!

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(pictured from left,
Luscious Cosmetics Crystal Nail Lacquer in Topanga
Lip Polish in Belize
Lip Delites Lip Plumper in Palm Beach)


Luscious Cosmetics features simple packaging with a girlie edge. The items are compact and easily portable. Very travel-friendly.

Lip Polish (5ml) takes up very little space in a makeup bag. Belize is a glossy nude with delicate shimmer. Great shade for this coming season.

Crystal Nail Lacquers, Luscious Cosmetics’ signature products, come with Swarovski crystals contained separately in a compartment within the cap. Topanga is a beautiful cranberry with ruby and diamond crystals.

Lip Delites Lip Plumper is an interesting one. According to the website, it is a lip plumper to be worn 1-2 times a day for 30 days to give lips up to 40% more volume. It is not the kind of lip gloss that stings. Instead, it claims to stimulate the production of collagen.

It is essentially a gloss that you wear on a daily basis to see a lip-plumping result. Personally, I don’t usually wear the same lip gloss (or any lip gloss) every day, and, since it has color, I can’t really wear it as an overnight treatment.

But, as a lip gloss alone, it is a fair one. Palm Beach is a sheer orange that looks more wet than glossy. It looks glittery in the tube but the glitters are barely noticeable when applied. Compared with Lip Polish, it is much less glossy and it doesn’t layer as well. It is simply a natural lip gloss that feels lightweight and moisturizing.

Luscious Cosmetics seems to feature quite a few dual-function products, from nail lacquers with Swarovski crystals to lip glosses with lip-pumping effects. (Their Luscious Blooms feature two coordinating shades for face and cheeks.) We’ll see what comes up next!

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(Clockwise from upper left:
Erth Minerals Foundation in 2.3

Eyeshadows in Fern, Night, and Snow

Bronzer in Glow,

Eyeshadows in Rose and Carbon )

More and more mineral makeup lines have been trying to grab a share of the market, apart from major players like Bare Escentuals. Erth Minerals (not “Earth”, to be clear…) is one of them.

Their website describes their foundations as matte and offering excellent coverage, which attracted my attention. After trying them out, I actually wouldn’t describe them as either. They are semi-matte and provide medium (on the sheer side) coverage. There is no obvious shimmer and the finish is all very natural.

For me personally, one drawback is the staying powder. On my oily skin, the foundation started to melt in about two hours (in the less-than-warm British summer). I would not recommend this for people with oily skin or with oily T-zone.

On the other hand, Moth Veil is a good finishing powder for me. Soft and silky, it mattifies my skin and conceals pores nicely (after my usual foundation). Only one shade is available, but I think it is translucent enough to suit most skin-tones.

Their eyeshadows work nicely on me too (I don’t have particularly oily eyelids). All the shades I’ve got are sheer and with multi-color sparkles. My favorites are Snow (pearly white), Rose (very pale pink), and Carbon (dark charcoal, can be doubled as an eyeliner). The sparkles make Snow and Carbon particularly beautiful, while Carbon is great for the smoky-eye look.

I need to point out that the eyeshadow in Night, which appears to be a pastel blue in the container (seen in the photo), looks almost completely grey when applied. Even though the website describes the shade as “deep blue”, it is just too much of an ashy grey to be called blue. This can make on-line ordering confusing.

Since it is also the case with von Natur Lip Shimmer in Sweet Violet (a rosy purple in the container, a brownish brick-red when applied), I wonder whether the blue pigment used in mineral makeup in general is simply not delivering. (I have never experienced this kind of color inconsistency with brands not marketed as mineral makeup.) If you have any similar experience, I would very much like to know about it.

On the whole, mineral makeup, with its simple composition, does not irritate my sensitive skin, but it takes much longer to apply. No surprise, it is the case with Erth Minerals. If you want your foundation to give you a good coverage and your colors to be vibrant, you might need to look elsewhere. But if you prefer your makeup to be sheer and natural (and with shimmer for the eyes), then Erth Minerals will be worth considering.

Related posts:
Von Natur Mineral Powder Foundation
Von Natur Mineral Color Makeup

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Announcement: New Category and Links Added

by PJ on Tuesday, July 31, 2007

in announcement

I have added a new category on the sidebar, which features posts with great comments. Have a look (and keep them coming)!!

I have also reorganized the links under “Loving These Sites!”. Since the latest links are no longer toward the top, I’d like to bring your attention to my latest links:

Musings of a Muse: A-Mused shares her stash with the world. Also, check out her YouTube channel MuseTV (loving this name). (Caution: Ask someone to hide your credit cards first.)

My Women Stuff: Paris writes about a wide range of beauty-related topics. I also like the clean and calming design of her blog.

Rouge Deluxe: Haru brings you first-hand information on the latest gems from Japan. (It makes me want to fly to Tokyo immediately…)

Enjoy!

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