White eyeshadows are some of the key items this season. In Shu Uemura’s Spring 2007 makeup look, white is the only color around the eyes. This season, a white eyeshadow is not only used as a browbone highlighter but also all round the eyes to create a clean, sophisticated and edgy look.

I have some eyeshadow palettes that feature a white eyeshadow but I decided to experiment different finishes, so over the last couple of weeks, I have bought some more:

1 Rimmel Color Rush Mono Eye Shadow (241 Matte White)
2 Rimmel Color Rush Mono Eye Shadow (244 Moonstone)
3 Boots Natural Collection Eyeshadow (Sea Shell)
4 Boots No. 7 Stay Perfect Eyeshadow (25 Opal)
5 Lancome Color Design (904 Pearly Angel)

(I was tempted to buy Maybelline Dream Mousse Shadow (in 00 Vanilla Veil) just to try a different texture, but the finish was a bit too glittery for my liking.)

Finish-wise, 1 & 3 are completely matte, and 2 & 4 have a pearly finish. 5 also has a pearly finish but with minimal glitter.

Between 1 & 3, 1 is completely white, while 3 is a very pale beige, which doesn’t show very much on my skin.

Out of these five, I am particularly impressed with the texture of the two Rimmel ones. Very smooth and velvety.

So far, I like 1 the most. The matte white looks very good on me and I think the matte finish is the concept in Shu Uemura’s seasonal look as well.

Don’t go overboard with white eyeshadows, though. It should look like there is a soft and flattering spotlight around your eyes, which makes your eyes pop.

Also, sporting too much of a glittery white eyeshadow all around the eyes can backfire spectacularly under heavy pale florescent lighting…You don’t want the reverse-panda look!

I think it is best to use a matte white eyeshadow as an overall base and to use any pearly or glittery white eyeshadow sparingly and strategically (on the browbones or in the inner corners of the eyes), especially when you have to switch between daytime and nighttime looks.

White eyeshadows have always been very basic items, but now you can use them to create a whole new (and flattering) look!

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I have talked about SUQQU several times, and I have praised its strong themes and stunning ad campaigns for its seasonal makeup collections.

Sometimes it only takes a single unique product in the collection to warrant all the building up to it:

Powder Eye Shadow in Daichi (EX-51)

Why? On the website and on the leaflet I got, it just looked like any ubiquitous deep brown eyeshadow. But when I tested it on the back of my hand, I realized that I had never tried anything else like this before.

The smooth (almost-creamy) texture, typical of SUQQU’s eyeshadows and blushers, is still there, but this brown eyeshadow has twinkly deep midnight blue sparkles. The finish is so absolutely gorgeous. It is still predominantly matte, while the sparse diamond-dust deep-blue particles really stand out and shine against the matte brown background.

It must be like a clear night in the desert.

If you happen to be near a SUQQU counter, you simply have to try it.

Again and again, SUQQU shows that their products epitomize Japanese sensitivity and sensuality. It’s all very subtle but it is enough to have you in awe.

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Marc Jacobs Boutique in Mayfair, London

by PJ on Sunday, March 25, 2007

in -Marc Jacobs, fashion

(Marc Jacobs boutique in London)

When I knew that Marc Jacobs opened his first UK boutique in London, I just had to go there and have a look.

It is not on Bond Street or Sloane Street, where fashion boutiques cluster. It is on the quiet and quaint Mount Street in the center of Mayfair, although it is not too far from the hustle and bustle of Bond Street and Oxford Street.

(London’s Mayfair)

It is a modest-sized boutique and everything is conveniently on one floor. The layout is neat, with women’s fashion on the left side and menswear on the right, accessories in the front and clothings in the back. There are also fragrances (Blush being one of my favorites) and home-ware between accessories and clothing.

The approachable staff members were exceptionally friendly and helpful, answering all my questions, as I was browsing all the luxurious handbags. The atmosphere was very easy and relaxing.

Just as I was going through to the men’s clothing section, I noticed some funky T-shirts with bright colors and catchy prints. To my surprise, they were only 14 pounds. (Some of them were made for charity.) I was not planning to buy anything, but if I could find something I liked at 14 pounds by Marc Jacobs…why not? And I did. I found a salmon-pink top with nice subtle patterns. There were also some affordable hats and belts (around 30 pounds) to choose from.

Overall it was a very good experience. I didn’t expect to stay for almost 45 minutes and I didn’t expect to buy something without seriously damaging my bank balance. I will definitely go back again. Even though I still won’t be able to afford any quilted handbag, at least I know the service and atmosphere will be enjoyable.

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In every February issue of Biteki magazine, it reveals the ultimate favorite cosmetics products as voted by the readers. It is always very interesting to see how some veterans battle with the newcomers.

Again, I will only list products sold internationally. (Also, I will not list what I have listed on my previous post about 2006 best-sellers in Japanese department stores.)

*SKINCARE*

Cleansing/Toning
Shu Uemura: Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O

Serum
Guerlain: Super Aqua Serum
Clarins: Contouring Facial Lift
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist
SKII: Eye Treatment Serum

Moisturizer
Creme de la Mer: Moisturizing Cream
Shiseido Cle de Peau: La Creme
SKII: Advanced Signs Treatment
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Creme
Clinique: Repairwear Intensive Eye Cream

Treatment
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch
Clinique: 15-Minute Facial

*BASE MAKEUP*

Primer
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base 02
Paul & Joe: Foundation Primer N 02

Concealer
Laura Mercier: Secret Camouflage SC-3

Foundation
RMK: Creamy Foundation

*COLOR MAKEUP*

Eye:
Chanel: 4 Powder Eyeshadows 27 (Golden Eyes)
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970 Stylish Move
RMK: Metallic Powder Eyes 11
Clinique: Cream Shaper for Eyes

Cheeks:
RMK: Ingenuous Cheeks 30
Anna Sui: Face Color Accent 300
YSL: Touche Blush 4
Shu Uemura: Glow on P Amber 83

Lips:
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal 303
Chanel: Aqualumiere 67
Stila: Lip Glaze (Passion Fruit)
Dior: DiorKiss 758

(from Biteki February 2007)

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As requested by a reader, I am going to talk about my daily foundation routine.

Every foundation product I use is in powder form (loose or pressed). I have oily skin, and anything liquidy or creamy (liquid foundation, creamy concealer,…) doesn’t stay on very well.

I try to make everything simple. I almost never use a primer. I only use a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen (like Estee Lauder DayWear Plus for Oily Skin SPF 15). Then:



1. I put on my ZA 2-way foundation (pictured mid-left).

Well, 70% of the time, that’s actually it. But if I want a more polished look:

2. I put on some transparent loose powder. My favorite two at the moment are from Raycious (mid-right) and Lavshuca (top). They are both very good in disguising pores. They both have minimal shimmer but it is barely visible on the face. Or I use Raycious pressed powder (bottom-left), which is completely matte.

Occasionally, if I need to conceal a pimple (here comes the big trick):

3. I use Raycious powder foundation (bottom-right) as a concealer with the corner of a rectangular sponge and gently press the powder onto a breakout. The light-defusing particles in Raycious powder foundations (especially the earliest generations) are fantastic for precision concealing. Not only is the redness covered, the shadow around the bump is instantly less visible (so the pimple looks much flattened). I want the powder to stay absolutely put on my breakout so it is applied last.

(This trick works wonder for my friends as well when I help them with makeup.)

My suggestion is to always take time doing the foundation. The foundation from a rushed application never stays on well. Taking time and doing everything slowly, gently, and carefully makes a huge difference, even with exactly the same products. (My routine is straightforward enough so it takes 10 minutes from 1 to 3, but I always make sure I don’t rush things through.)

My next post will be about some favorite cosmetics products as voted by Japanese consumers.

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I came across an interesting feature on the January issue of Biteki magazine. It lists best-sellers in each major department store throughout Japan and compares what customers like in different parts of the country. Today I am listing some of them as a whole (non-areal-specific) for you to have a look and I am focusing on products from brands available internationally.

*Skincare/Bodycare*

Shiseido Cle de Peau: Lotion Tendre
Clinique: Turnaround Concentrate
Origins: Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Protection Correction Serum
RMK: Skin Smoother
RMK: Face Protector SPF 31
Biotherm: Celluli Peel
Clarins: Total Body Lift
SKII: Skin Treatment Essence

*Base Makeup*

RMK: Makeup Base
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base Mat
RMK: Liquid Foundation
YSL: Touche Eclat
Clinique: All About Eyes Concealer
Clinique: Perfectly Real Makeup

*Color Makeup*

Bobbi Brown: Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner
Helena Rubinstein: Lash Queen Water-Proof

Lancome: L’Extreme Water-Proof

Lancome: Juicy Tube 17
Chanel: Rouge Allure 04, 13, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 434
RMK: Ingenious Cheeks 29
RMK: Water Color Eyes 04
Anna Sui: Nail Color 333
Paul & Joe: Nail Color 26

(from Biteki January 2007)

One thing I have noticed is that there is one lipstick that tops virtually all the department store top-selling lists: Dior Addict Ultra Shine 2 in 340 Shiniest Peach. Ultra Shine 2 is only available in Asia at the moment, but the very exclusive Harvey Nichols in London actually has it!

Coming up in my next post, I will be sharing my daily foundation routine.

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Today I’ll talk about some other von Natur’s mineral makeup products.

Their eyeshadows are what I really like. They have the same advantages as their mineral foundation I talked about last time (good staying power, good for sensitive skin, proper anti-UVA ingredients), while some of the drawbacks of the mineral foundation are not really an issue here. Even in the loose-powder form, the application is hassle-free. Also, the shimmer which does not appeal to me in the foundation turns out to be a plus in the eyeshadows.

Overall the texture of the eyeshadows is light and smooth. My favorite colors are Pyrope (deep purple), Ruby (warm pink), and Chrysocolla (minty green).

The blusher I got (in Dawn) is a nice neutral pink. It can be slightly too iridescent for daytime wear, but the color itself is wearable and flattering for most skin-tones.

The Face & Body Shimmer is a very shimmery bronzing powder. Considering it is a bronzer, there are many colors to choose from, and the one I have (Sun Worshiper) is great for medium skin-tones.

Personally I think their color cosmetics items fare better than the powder foundation, simply because of the easy application and the shimmer not being a problem for me. Also there are good ranges of colors for the eyeshadows, bronzers, and blushers.

After trying these mineral makeup products for the first time, I can definitely see the appeal and buzz about “going mineral”. As heavyweights like Neutrogena, L’Oreal, MAC, and Laura Mercier are launching their mineral makeup products, it does seem that a new era is coming.

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There has been a lot of hype in mineral makeup in the UK at the moment. When I came across a big beauty feature on mineral makeup on Grazia magazine (it is like US and Allure combined) last week, it’s as if the mineral madness has really started to take shape here.

This major media coverage coincides with my first trial of mineral makeup, with products from von Natur. It is an organic cosmetics brand, and they just launched a collection of mineral makeup.

I have heard a lot about mineral makeup before and how it is compared with non-mineral makeup, so I am particularly interested in how their mineral makeup products figure in the whole spectrum of comments. Today I will talk about their mineral Powder Foundation that I received (and I’ll review some of their other mineral makeup products in my next post).

Overall, the Powder Foundation lives up to the kind of hype among mineral makeup lovers:

1. It offers great coverage and it doesn’t feel heavy, which I love. The coverage is medium at the very least and can be built up much fuller. It can even double as a concealer with the right brush.

2. It doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin, since the foundation is simply made of crushed mineral powder that is not absorbed by the skin.

3. The staying power is quite good. It stays on for the whole day with minimal fading. Also, the color stays nice and fresh and doesn’t darken on my oily skin.

4. The main ingredients of the foundation, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (the typical ingredients in mineral makeup), are both ingredients to protect the skin from UVA. They give the foundation a very beneficial skincare property.

But there are some downsides as well:

1. Even with some practice, the application takes a bit of time. For the 2-way powder foundation that I usually use, it takes about 5 minutes to do the whole face. For the mineral powder foundation, it takes at least 15 minutes. It takes a lot of gradual layering and buffing to get an even coverage for the whole face.

2. The powder has a great deal of shimmer, which doesn’t go very well with my oily skin. (I sometimes layer a matte loose powder to reduce the shine.) I hope they will bring out a matte version, which I am sure I’ll like better. (But, on the other hand, for people who want that glowing luminosity, this can probably be a good choice.)

3. The loose powder is not the most convenient thing to travel with. A pressed form will be much better in this case.

Despite the downsides, it is a good foundation, simply because of the good coverage and staying power. It is a relatively new collection and hopefully they will bring out different formulations. Maybe a matte pressed powder? Then it will be everything I want from a mineral foundation.

In my next post, I’ll talk about some other von Natur mineral makeup products that I tried, which include eyeshadows, blusher, and bronzing powder.

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#2: Jill Stuart (“Brilliant Veil” Collection)

The Look: “Brilliant Veil” is quite an accurate description of the colors on offer here. Medium-pigmented colors add soft hues to the face with a great amount of glow and sheen. The emphasis is on the eyes, with the launch of Jill Stuart’s first collection of eye palettes.

Key Item: Brilliance Eyes palette in 04 Gem Amethyst (reviewed earlier here). A beautiful lilac palette with featherweight powder and intense shimmer and glitter. It gives a veil of color with dazzling and multi-dimensional sparkles. A palette that adds a bit of drama to the eyes.

Winner: Lavshuca

The Look: When I saw the ad campaign featuring the Japanese girl band PUFFY (the two girls you see as soon as you enter the Lavshuca website), I couldn’t believe their transformation. They used to be two funky girls with slightly mad hair jumping around the stage. Now they cannot look more polished and sophisticated while they still keep the coolness and edge. I guess this is the image that Lavshuca’s new collection is trying to convey: cute, fun, feminine, and with a bit of an attitude.

Key Item: Too many to mention, actually, but I will single out Eye Color Select in PK-1 (reviewed earlier here). Pink eyeshadow is hot for this spring, and this pink palette gives a couple of different looks. You can go for a soft pale pink or an intense cherry pink. The lightest shade is good as a base or a highlighter and the brown can be a natural eyeliner.

For me, it was very close between Jill Stuart and Lavshuca this season. They kept switching positions when I was finalizing my rankings. But Lavshuca wins at the end with its more complete range and updated packaging to keep the brand image fresh.

If you are interested in mineral makeup, my next post will be about von Natur’s mineral powder foundation.

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#4: T’Estimo

The Look: The whole collection (both the color and the packaging) is so pretty. The look is femine and elegant. The emphasis is on the eyes. Beautifully and delicately blended gradation from pale to soft to intense, from browbone to lashline, the single-color concept for eye makeup works seamlessly.

Key Items: Frame Impact Eyes palettes. Four eye palettes feature four gradations of colors (blue, green, lilac, and brown). Each palette comes with a cream eyeliner. Don’t be put off by the green and the blue. The colors are soft enough to look natural but pigmented enough to impart a gorgeous hue.

#3: Lunasol (“The Ultimate Skin” Collection)

The Look: The concept is to create flawless skin with the softest colors. Pale pastel colors for eyes and beige-pink for lips. The whole effect is fresh, polished, and very sophisticated.

Key Items: Skin Modelling Lips palettes (second from top on the webpage). It’s the ultimate lip kit. Each of the four palettes features a tinted lip primer, lip color, shimmer-free gloss, and shimmery gloss. The tool for sculpting the perfect pout.

(If you can get hold of the April issue of the Biteki magazine, it comes with a free DVD which is all about creating “The Ultimate Skin” using Lunasol’s latest makeup and foundation collections.)

I’ll reveal my top 2 in my next post (although you can probably guess what they are if you have read some of my previous posts). Still, don’t miss it!

After that, I will talk a bit about one growing trend — mineral makeup.

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