all about Japanese cosmetics

Jill Stuart 2009 Summer Collection Update & Future Release

by PJ on Friday, May 15, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup

(image from www.jillstuart-beauty.com)

Jill Stuart has updated its website to feature the summer 2009 makeup collection (out in Japan on June 5th). The main eye makeup item for the seasonal ad image (below) is Jelly Eye Color N in 08 Crystal Sky (pictured above). It seems to be a very pretty medium purple shade and I am seriously considering getting it.

(image from www.jillstuart-beauty.com)

Also, on July 3rd in Japan, Jill Stuart will release Jill by Jill Stuart Perfumed Body Powder (7g). It is an addition to the Jill by Jill Stuart Eau de Toilette range.
(image from www.joseishi.net/voce)

(Jill by Jill Stuart EDT)
(image from www.jillstuart-beauty.com)

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Kanebo Coffret D’Or Shine Accent Eyes 02 Pink Variation

by PJ on Tuesday, May 12, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Coffret D’Or‘s Shine Accent Eyes is part of the brand’s spring 2009 collection and the brand’s third series of eye palettes. Having good experiences with the previous two, I decided to try one palette from the new series. Of course I went for the one with lilac.

02 Pink Variation includes:

Top: very sheer white with soft fine shimmer
Left: sheer light pink with pearly shimmer
Right: moderately-pigmented medium lilac with a pink-plum undertone and pearly shimmer
Middle: a gel-cream liner with off-white sparkles

As with other Coffret D’Or eye palettes, the powder is soft and very easy to blend. The colors have a good staying power.

The pink is on the sheer side and it shows up less on my eyes than on the back of my hand, which is slightly lighter than my face. It should show up more on a fair skin tone than on my light-to-medium skin tone. (It is still more pigmented than the off-white pinks in Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral and Coffret D’Or’s Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation.)

The lilac is a soft shading color that goes on warmer than it looks in the pan as it has a pronounced soft muted pinkish (but not reddish) plum undertone. It is warmer than the main lilac in Lunasol’s Layer Bloom Eyes in Purple Gradation.

The gel-cream liner has a dense consistency. According to the eye chart on the back of the outer packaging, it is applied along the lower lashline. The shimmery flecks are larger than the shimmery particles in the other three shades, and the finish is quite sparkly.

This palette creates a soft daytime look with a beautiful shimmery finish. (But I would go easy on the gel-cream liner for daytime.) Compared with the previous Coffret D’Or releases, the overall finish (of the three powder shades) is slightly more shimmery than 3D Lighting Eyes (between pearly and shimmery) and less so than the Trance Deep Eyes (quite sparkly). I also like the pinkish lilac, which is different from the (many) ones I have.

However, because there is no dark lining shade, I personally feel that this palette is less versatile than those from the previous series. Also, I would prefer the pink to be slightly more pigmented so that I could create more looks.

(I have been using the deep violet from 3D Lighting Eyes’ Purple Variation as an eyeliner to go with this palette.)

I think I have more or less formed the habit of trying Coffret D’Or’s new eye palette series, and I am looking forward to the upcoming Color Mixing Eyes, out next month.

Betsy at Autumn Masquerade has reviewed Shine Accent Eyes in 04 Blue Variation. Do have a look!

Other posts on Coffret D’Or:

3D Lighting Eyes in Gold Variation

Trance Deep Eyes in Grey Variation

Makeup Powder (loose powder)

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Jill Stuart Jelly Eye Color N for Summer 2009

by PJ on Tuesday, May 12, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.iswii.net)

In my post on Jill Stuart’s summer 2009 makeup collection, I mentioned that the existing Jelly Eye Color would be replaced by Jelly Eye Color N. Here is a quick look at the ten new shades.

I think this is a fairly good selection of shades, with a nice range of lighter and darker colors. I am sure more shades will be released later on.

Related posts:

Jill Stuart Breaks Record

Jill Stuart Spring 2009 Makeup Collection

Foundation Face-Off – Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

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RMK Makeup Renewal

by PJ on Saturday, May 9, 2009

in -RMK, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images from www.rmkrmk.com)

The RMK website (the Japanese site) is now featuring the information on the brand’s revamp of eyeshadows and blushers. The new items include:

– Ingenious Powder Eyes (35 shades)
– Ingenious Jelly Eyes (8 shades)
– Ingenious Powder Cheeks (23 shades)
– Ingenious Jelly Cheeks (6 shades)

(RMK’s cases for eyeshadow and blusher singles used to be sold separately. Now customers don’t have the choice of buying the refills anymore.)

I haven’t seen the new colors in person, but I am suspecting that some of the colors are probably very similar to or the same as the old ones. I was comparing the new Ingenious Jelly Eyes with the old Jelly Eye Color (the RMK English site hasn’t been updated with the new lineup), and it appears that the middle six of the new eight shades look more or less the same as the previous shades of Jelly Eye Color.


At the moment, it seems that the renewal features repackaged items with some new additions. I will bring you more observation and thoughts when I have a chance to see the new lineup.

Updated on May 27th 2009:

Check out a link to some very good product photos and swatches here.

Related posts:

RMK Powder Foundation EX

RMK Spring 2009 Collection

Can’t Live Without – RMK Cleansing Oil

Cosme Decorte Makeup Renewal for Fall 2008

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Base Makeup Review: RMK Super Basic Liquid Concealer

by PJ on Tuesday, May 5, 2009

in -RMK, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(RMK Super Basic Concealer in 02)

A few weeks ago, I reviewed RMK‘s Powder Foundation EX, one of RMK’s three new base makeup items. Today I am sharing my thoughts on one of the two other products, Super Basic Concealer.

It is available in four shades and has SPF 28 and PA+++, and it uses a twist-click dispenser. The concealer has a creamy consistency, a good opaque coverage and a glowy matte finish. (It doesn’t have visible shimmery particles.)

So far, I have been having little issue with darkness in the eye area, so I can’t really say how well it works on heavy dark circles. (But it does even out the skin tone in the eye area quite well.) My main issue is the occasional breakout, and this product covers the redness effectively.

Also, I think the texture and consistency are just right. It is not so liquidy that it gets blended off where I want it to stay (it is always annoying when a concealer ends up around the breakout and not on the breakout), and the cream is just malleable enough to be blended nicely with enough play time to ensure a seamless finish.

I use this concealer underneath my powder foundation, which helps set the concealer. Once it sets, it is very long-lasting and doesn’t travel or disintegrate (even on my oily skin, where cream-based base makeup products don’t tend to stay on very well).

The shades tested for this review are 01 and 02. My skin tone is between light and light-to-medium (I use ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22 and I would go for the second OC shade in Japanese foundations), and 02 is a fairly good match for me. If you have a fair skin tone and tend to go for the lightest foundation shade, then 01 should be a good fit for you. (Both shades are quite neutral-toned and don’t look pinkish. Apart from being darker, 02 is slightly warmer than 01.)

Overall, Super Basic Concealer seems to be a very competent product, and, for me, it works well in concealing redness/breakouts. Also, the SPF/PA factors are a welcome feature as they provide extra protection for the breakout area, which can be particularly sensitive to sunlight.

Related posts:

“Japanese Base Makeup” series

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer

Prescriptives Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15

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Lunasol Layer Bloom Eyes in 03 Purple Gradation

by PJ on Tuesday, April 28, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus



Another season, another lilac palette joining my collection…

Lunasol‘s Layer Bloom Eyes* palettes are part of Lunasol’s spring 2009 Floral Purification collection. 03 Purple Gradation is inspired by wisteria (fuji) and includes (anti-clock-wise from top-left):

– sheer white with multi-colored sparkles
– medium lilac with a soft pearly finish (moderately pigmented)
– predominantly matte cool-toned dark grey with sparse shimmer (well-pigmented)
– light lilac with a mildly shimmery finish (moderately pigmented)

All the shades are very soft and easy to apply, and the finish lasts well.

According to the eye chart that comes with the palette, the sheer white is used as a base, the medium lilac is used as a shadowing shade, and the dark grey is for the upper lashline and the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline. The light lilac is applied on the inner 2/3 of the lower lashline.

I really like how the two lilacs work together. The medium lilac has an exceptionally soft texture, and blending is effortless. I can go as sheer or intense as I want with this shade. When applied on the lower lashline, the light lilac seems to look more intense (slightly darker) than it does in the pan. It has a delicate iridescence and brightens the eyes very effectively without creating a stark look.

What I also like about the two lilacs is that the beautiful color seems very long-lasting. After 12 hours of wear, it is not uncommon for some lilacs to take on a very mild bluey-grey hue as the color starts to fade (and I don’t usually take this to be an indication of inferior quality). But the two lilacs here are able to stay fresh almost throughout the day, which impresses me.

Compared with Lunasol’s Lavender Coral palette from spring 2008, I think Purple Gradation is a lot more elegant and understated. The colors are less sparkly and the overall finish is more pearly than shimmery. (Between the two main lilac shades, the one in Purple Gradation is slightly warmer than that in Lavender Coral. I like both equally.) On the whole, Purple Gradation is more similar to Scent Form Eyes in 02 but it is marginally more vibrant due to the mild iridescence. (Scent Form Eyes in 02 is certainly the most low-key of the three.)

Overall, this is a beautiful lilac palette which is very easy to wear, in terms of both the colors and the superb texture of the powder. If you are looking for something as vibrant as the Sheer Contrast Eyes and the Geminate Eyes series, then this palette might not be for you. But if you want a sophisticated eye palette that is not overly shimmery, then the Layer Bloom Eyes series is a must-see.

(It appears that, since the fall 2008 Red Purification collection, Lunasol’s eye palettes are returning to the elegant and understated finish that the brand started off with. It would be interesting to see whether the trend will shift again.)

You can read my friend Betsy’s review of this palette here on Autumn Masquerade.

* Though this palette series is officially called Layer Bloom Eyes, the English name on the outer boxes of palettes sold outside Japan is Blooming Eyes. Check out the photo on this post for the difference.

Related posts:

Lunasol Fall 2009 Collection

Lunasol Summer 2009 Collection
(more Layer Bloom Eyes palettes)

My Personal Take on Lunasol

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Makeup Review: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

by PJ on Friday, April 24, 2009

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder in 101 Clear (refill))

In this post, which I wrote in 2007, I mentioned SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder. It was launched in fall 2006 and became an instant sensation.

It is a semi-transparent pressed powder. According to SUQQU, the main function of this product is that it sets the foundation without altering the foundation color or leaving any powdered finish. It is also claimed to be able to cover pores and deliver an oil absorption effect.

(It is available in 101 Clear (matte) and 102 Clear Pearl (very slightly shimmery). The case, refill, and brush (similar to the flat powder brush of RMK’s Powder Foundation EX) are all sold separately.)

When I touch the surface of the powder, it feels like a piece of frosted soft plastic. I can’t hardly pick up any powder with my fingers. It does seem considerably different from nearly all the other pressed-powder products I have come across.

The application can be slightly tricky, and, over the last couple of years, I have noticed that the SUQQU sales assistants’ application techniques have changed. I remember they used to advise that we sweep the brush gently across the powder (as we normally would with any pressed powder), but it appeared to me then that the brush was not really able to pick up the powder this way. Now the sales assistants seem to apply a lot more pressure with the brush to sweep up the powder, which I think is the only way to pick up the powder from the pan.

When the powder is applied on the skin (after I apply my powder foundation), the particles are invisible. Therefore, it is certainly true that it is able to set the foundation without leaving any trace of it (no alteration of foundation color or powdered finish). What I see is that the finish of my powder foundation becomes a little more matte and that the appearance of pores is more blurred, and this is obviously down to the semi-transparent silicone particles.

The pore-diffusing efficacy is decent, but I do feel that the oil-control ability is somewhat on the weak side.



In my post two years ago, I mentioned that I imagined Clear Veil Powder would be a pressed-powder equivalent of a silicone-based liquid/gel primer (think Smash Box’s Photo Finish) and that it would probably work as a “post-primer” (something with the same purposes as those of a primer but applied after the foundation). After I have tried it, I do still think of the product in the same way. But I do find that I can also use it as a primer and apply it before my powder foundation, so the product is more versatile than I expected.

Whether Clear Veil Powder serves all of our needs would vary from person to person. If you have finally found a foundation that offers the perfect match with your skin tone and think all the loose/pressed powder products that you come across interfere with the perfect match, then this setting powder is definitely worth looking into. If you use a setting powder to diffuse the look of pores, then this product may work well for you too. But if you rely on a setting powder to keep you shine-free, then this might not be the product you are looking for.

Overall, I commend the design of the product. In Japanese cosmetics, there are a lot fewer multi-purposed products, and, especially within Japanese base makeup, it seems to be mostly about one product serving one very specific purpose.

As I was reminded of all the Japanese office/kitchen/storage gadgets that faithfully and effectively serve their sole duties, I think Clear Veil Powder is another prime example of this sophisticated simplicity of consumer product design that Japanese brands (not just beauty brands) excel at. It also exemplifies the unique quality of Japanese makeup that will always keep me curious and fascinated.

Related posts:

SUQQU Contour Shadows
(another example of a unique and specialized product)

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection Review

My Personal Take on SUQQU

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Jill Stuart Summer 2009 Makeup Collection

by PJ on Friday, April 24, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images/info from www.cosme.net)

Jill Stuart will release its summer 2009 makeup collection in Japan on June 5th. The lineup includes:

– Illuminance Eyes palette (1 new variation (Layered Gem), above)

– Jelly Eye Color N (10 shades)



– Jelly Lip Gloss (3 new shades)

– Nail Lacquer N (5 new shades)



– Base Coat N

– Top Coat N

– Protecting Paper N

Notice that the new packaging of Jelly Eye Color N. I think it looks even cuter now, and I am looking forward to seeing all the 10 colors.

Related posts:

Jill Stuart New Bodycare Items

Jill Stuart Spring 2009 Makeup Collection

Mix Blush Compact in 01 Baby Blush

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Anna Sui Summer 2009 Hair & Bodycare Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

in -Anna Sui, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, bodycare, haircare

(images/info from woman.excite.co.jp)

Anna Sui will release a collection of hair and bodycare products in Japan on June 4th. The items include:

– Bath & Body Trial Kit (with Hair Shampoo 60ml, Hair Conditioner 60ml, Body Shampoo 60ml, and a tote pouch)

– Hair Treatment Oil


– Hair Comb R



Updated on April 25, 2009:

– Body Protection N (SPF 30, PA++)



Related Posts:

Anna Sui Spring 2009 Makeup Collection

Anna Sui Makeup Color Collection D

Anna Sui Face Color Accent in 400

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Coffret D’Or Summer 2009 Collection Update

by PJ on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

Coffret D’Or has updated its website to include information on its summer 2009 collection.

The uniqueness of the new series of eyeshadow palettes, Color Mixing Eyes, is that the top two colors are designed to be mixed together for the upper lids (while the left one of the two is used for the inner corners of the eyes).


The series features five variations:

01 Orange Brown Mix
02 Blue Green Mix
03 Silver Pink Mix
04 Lavender Purple Mix
05 Beige Black Mix

I like all the Coffret D’Or eyeshadow palettes I have, so I would certainly be interested in trying this upcoming series.

Updated on June 9th 2009:

Do have a look at the photos of all the Color Mixing Eyes palettes on this blog post.

I am still liking 04 Lavender Purple Mix and I am planning to try it. If I like its texture and finish, I might also get 01 Orange Brown Mix.

Posts on my Coffret D’Or eye palettes:

3D Lighting Eyes in Purple and Gold Variations

Trance Deep Eyes in Rose and Grey Variations

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