all about Japanese cosmetics

(part of Cosme Decorte’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)


AQ (Absolute Quality) is Cosme Decorte‘s (owned by Kosé) top-end skincare and makeup line. AQ’s point* (color) makeup line was launched in 2000 and features some of the most expensive makeup items in Japan.

On August 21st, the existing AQ point makeup line will be replaced by new items with brand new packaging.

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

The new AQ makeup collection for fall 2008 includes:

Rouge Supreme: 10 shades
Shadow Supreme (eye palettes): 5 variations
Light Focus (base/highlighter): 3 shades
Nuance Glow (highlighter): 3 shades
Face Color (blusher): 5 shades
Mascara Excellent: 2 shades
Liquid Eyeliner: 5 shades
Pencil Eyeliner: 2 shades
Pencil Eyebrow: 4 shades
Lip Liner: 7 shades
Nail Supreme: 10 shades

With Japanese cosmetics, renewals (particularly with makeup) are usually more about updating the packaging than the actual formulation of products. In Japan’s fiercely competitive beauty market, product packaging has to stay fresh and up-to-date, and many brands revamp the look of their products in their own time frames and either minimally (like Anna Sui and Lunasol) or drastically (like Sofina Aube). Replaced items are either phased out quickly or discontinued immediately.

(part of Cosme Decorte’s summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.biteki.com)

For me, AQ’s packaging renewal is successful. The current packaging (seen above) looks clean and sophisticated but slightly lacks character. The new look is opulent and glamorous. I think Cosme Decorte has worked out a look for AQ that goes with its prices. The lipsticks and blushers are particularly pricey:

Rouge Supreme: 6300 yen (about 59 USD)
Face Color: 7350 yen (about 69 USD)

In contrast, the Shadow Supreme eye palettes (6825 yes, about 64 USD) almost seem relatively reasonable. (The price is about the same as that of a Dior 5-color eye palette in the UK.) If I decide to try an item from AQ, the eye palette will probably be my choice.

* In Japanese cosmetics, the term “point makeup” (constantly written as “point make” in Japan) refers to color makeup items like eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks and lip glosses. On the the hand, “base makeup” (“base make”) refers to items such as primers, concealers, foundations, and loose/pressed powder (and not just bases (primers)).

Other Fall 2008 Makeup Collections:

Chanel

CHICCA

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(part from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Many of Lunasol‘s past makeup collection themes are based on the idea of “purification”. So far, we’ve had:

“Scent Purification” for fall 2006 (Scent Form Eyes)
“Brilliance Purification” for fall 2007 (Geminate Eyes)
“Color Purification” for spring 2008 (Sheer Contrast Eyes)

The clear brand philosophy and the individual yet coherent seasonal makeup themes are what set Lunasol apart from the other Japanese makeup brands, and their brand image has always been very appealing to me.

For fall 2008, it will be all about red, as Lunasol brings us the theme “Red Purification“. For a change, Lunasol’s latest collection will focus on the lips, and 16 red lipsticks take center stage.

All the items are brand new and are not new shades added to the existing items. The full Lunasol fall 2008 lineup includes:

Full Glamour Lips S: 16 shades
Contrasting W Lip Liners: 2 shades
Noble Shade Eyes: 5 variations
Noble Shade Liner: 3 shades
Brow Styling Compact: 2 variations
Coloring Cheeks: 2 shades (refill only, case and applicator sold separately)

Apart from the color makeup items, the fall lineup will also include Nuance Change Foundation B (2 shades), which is supposed to be Lunasol’s equivalent of YSL’s Touche Éclat. The new skincare addition will be Lip Essence, with SPF 20 and PA+.

The collection will be launched in Japan on August 22nd.

I would describe this collection as both classic and edgy, with beautiful red lipsticks and rather bold red-toned eyeshadows. (It seems that each of the five Noble Shade Eyes palette will feature a shade of red.) I am really looking forward to seeing how these red eyeshadow shades will be worn on models in Japanese makeup magazines. Also, for those who look for the ultimate red lipstick, this collection is worth a serious look.

This seems to be another seasonal makeup collection from Lunasol that has a tremendously unique identity, and I think Japanese makeup fans will remember this collection for a long time.

I will update this post when I come across more information.

Updated on July 24th, 2008:

The Lunasol website has been updated
.

Updated on August 21st, 2008:

Please check out this link for swatches of nearly all the items from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection, including all the eye palettes, lipsticks, blushers, and eyeliners (from a Lunasol press event in Taiwan).

Other Posts on Lunasol:

Lunasol Summer 2008 Collection

Lunasol Full Glamour Gloss in Bright Pink

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol

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(part of the Twany Glamacy Fall 2008 Collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Twany Glamacy was launched in April with a full range of wearable basics. For fall 2008, more shades will be added to the existing items of the lineup, plus the new Mascara EU (Under-Eye), a mascara specifically for lower lashes.

The fall 2008 additions include:

Eye Color UE (Under-Eye): 2 new shades
(luminous powder eye colors for the under-eye area)
Eye Color Set (palette): 2 new variations
Eyeliner Pencil: 1 new shade
Gel Eyeliner: 1 new shade
Mascara UE (Under-Eye): 1 shade
Lipstick: 5 new shades
Lip Liner: 2 new shades

(Apart from Eye Color and Eye Color UE, Twany Glamacy also has Eye Color UB (Under-Brow), which currently includes two eye colors specifically for highlighting the under-brow area.)

The collection will be launched in Japan on August 16th.

Other Fall 2008 Collections:

Coffret D’Or

Lavshuca

Kate

Sofina Aube

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(Shibasaki Kou for Coffret D’Or Fall 2008)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

The Coffret D’Or website has been updated with the latest television commercials and the full lists of items used for the brand’s five makeup looks for fall 2008.

Enjoy!

Related Coffret D’Or Posts:

Trance Deep Eyes Palettes (for Fall 2008)

3D Lighting Eyes in Purple & Gold Variations

Full styling Rouge in RS-241 & RS-242

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If you are a fan of Japanese cosmetics and a member of Makeup Alley, then you probably have read some of the great product reviews by Kathi (fleckenschnitte). To me, her reviews are always informative and often very “inspiring” (I am sure you know what I mean…).

Now Kathi has her own blog, Lotus Palace, where she continues to review beauty finds from Japan. It is also a great blog to check out if you are looking for information on Korean cosmetics.

From now on, you will be able to find the link to her blog from my “Loving These Sites” list. I hope you will enjoy her blog as well!

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(part of Sonia Rykiel’s Summer Makeup Collection:
Divines Vacances)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

Like Paul & Joe and Elégance, Sonia Rykiel is a French fashion brand (which I personally like very much). But, just like the brands mentioned above, the Sonia Rykiel beauty line is essentially Japanese and is developed and manufactured in Japan for Japanese and Asian consumers in general.

During my trip to Paris several years ago, staff in the Sonia Rykiel boutique confirmed that the line was not sold in France. At the moment, it is available in Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Macau. (Please check Sonia Rykiel Beauté’s international shoplist for details of retail points outside Japan.)

The Sonia Rykiel beauty line features full skincare, base makeup, and color makeup ranges. All three areas have been performing relatively well in the Asian market. But the brand is particularly famous for its base makeup range. Their Treatment Makeup Base and Water Gel Foundation (both have been updated a couple of times in the past years) have been Sonia Rykiel’s best-selling products. (The brand claims that 80% of Water Gel Foundation, seen below in the center, is water and that it is an ultra-moisturizing foundation.)

(Left to right:
Treatment Powder Foundation,
Water Gel Foundation,
and Moisture Arising Cream Foundation)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

Skincare-wise, I have tried several samples, and the one that left me with a very good impression is the cleansing oil. It cleansed well, rinsed easily, and left no oily residue. (It has also been updated so I can’t say for sure how well the current version works.)

One of Sonia Rykiel’s best-selling skincare products is Hydra Premier Primer Moisture Essence (seen below). As I mentioned a couple of times in the past, many Japanese brands feature more elaborate skincare routines, and this product reflects this. This is a light serum-type product that is used right after cleansing and before any other skincare item is applied. It is supposed to work as a “primer” for subsequent skincare products and help them absorb better.

(Hydra Premier Primer Moisture Essence)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

I got a trial sample of this several years ago, and, to my surprise, alcohol was one of the major ingredients. (Maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise, since alcohol features heavily in Japanese skincare products.) I have to say I would never put this on my face. In the ad above, to me, it’s a splash of (irritating) alcohol, not a splash of water…

I am a lot more pleased with Sonia Rykiel’s makeup products. I have Mono Eyeshadow in #16 and Aqua Cheek Color in 01. Sonia Rykiel revamped the entire color makeup line about two years ago, so both were discontinued (which is why I haven’t touched upon them since I started my blog).



I especially like the Mono Eyeshadow. Its smooth and silky texture rivals that of some of the best eyeshadows I have tried in the last couple of years. (The finish of this particular shade is luminous matte with very little shimmer.) The Aqua Cheek Color is a stick blusher with a cream-to-powder texture. This pigmented blusher takes a bit of time to blend, but the velvety finish is beautiful and long-lasting.

Overall, this is a brand that I do constantly pay attention to, especially its base and color makeup items. (Currently, I am quite interested in the eyeshadow palettes, loose powder, and lip glosses.) Their seasonal makeup collections are often very visually pleasing.

If you are going to Asia this summer and are interested in checking out beauty lines not available in the west, this brand is worth a look. (In Tokyo in particular, Sonia Rykiel Beauté is available in major department stores such as Takashimaya Shinjuku, Isetan Shinjuku, and Seibu Ikebukuro. All have heavenly beauty departments which cover a great variety of brands.)

Edited on May 30, 2008:

Sonia Rykiel is a high-end line and its pricing is similar to Lunasol’s. A Sonia Rykiel lipstick costs about 33 USD and a 4-color eye palette costs about 50 USD in Japan. All the items’ retail prices in Japan are listed on the Sonia Rykiel Beauté website.

On Other Japanese Cosmetics:

Vecua

Elégance

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(Maquillage Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310)

Since I tried Maquillage‘s Clean Contrast Eyes in SV844, I had wanted to try something else from the line. I decided to go for one of their lipsticks and picked up Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310, from Maquillage’s spring 2008 lineup.

RS310 is medium warm rose and goes on a little more vibrant. It has a natural and slightly glossy finish. It goes on easily and the color and finish last well. While it is not the most moisturizing lipstick I have, it is not drying. (So far, my SUQQU lipstick is probably the most moisturizing lipstick I’ve had.)

I was expecting the Lasting Climax Rouge range to be quite sheer, and I was surprised by the medium pigmentation level when I tried the sample card, which contained five shades (but didn’t contain RS310). RS310 also has a medium color pay-off, while its pigmentation level is slightly lower than that of Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color.

In terms of the finish, compared with Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color and Lavshuca Jewelry Lips, this one is slightly glossier and has a tad more micro-shimmer. But it doesn’t have a frosty/metallic finish, which I don’t like.

Shade-wise, it is lighter, warmer and slightly more vivid than Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color in RS-241 and Lavshuca Jewelry Lips in PK-1. It is quite a girlie color.

Overall, as an RS (Rose) shade, Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310 is relatively vibrant, and I feel it is more of a cool PK (Pink) shade than a typical RS shade from Japanese brands. (Many RS shades I have seen are more muted.) I personally prefer to wear it for the evening (without layering it too much). For daytime, I simply gently dab it on for a mild stained look.

For another review (written in Chinese, with this very shade worn on lips), please check out this post.

Updated on June 6th, 2008:

Please check out the review of RD359 on Autumn Masquerade.


————

Thoughts on photographing lipsticks: I have personally observed that capturing the actual color of a lipstick is a lot trickier than showing that of, for example, an eyeshadow. I think it is because the lipstick itself is more dimensional. A friend of mine commented that it might also be because it is in a semi-liquid form. (Interestingly, I don’t really have this issue with lip glosses. Maybe it is because they are inside solid containers.) The lipstick color in the photo you see above is closest to its actual color under sunlight. (I don’t tend to digitally fine-tune color, brightness, or contrast of my photos for my reviews.)

The two photos below are taken within minutes of the one above. As you can see, in terms of the lipstick color, the first one looks slightly warmer (than the one above), while the second one looks darker and cooler.



(You can see that, in the second one, less light is reflected back to the camera and the lipstick shade looks darker. When it comes to photographing other makeup items, there is usually not this degree of difference (when the amount of light reflected back to the camera slightly varies).)

Based on my experiences, I have also come to understand why a lipstick (in the container, not worn on a model’s lips), compared with other makeup items, can look so different in different magazines or even in different features in the same issue of a magazine.

————

Other Shiseido-Related Posts:

Maquillage Summer 2008 Collection

Can’t Live Without – ZA Two-Way Foundation

Budget Princess: Majolica Majorca


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(cover of Biteki July 2008)
(image from www.biteki.com)

Some of you might be able to recognize the person on the magazine cover above.

Barbie (Hsi-Yuan) Hsu, a popular Taiwanese TV actress and singer in Asia, is the cover star of the July 2008 issue of Biteki.

Unlike Voce, Biteki rarely features celebrities on the covers, and there are very specific reasons why Hsu is fronting this issue:

– She is one of the Taiwanese actors/actresses that enjoy popularity in Japan, largely due to her leading role in the extremely successful TV drama Meteor Garden, an adaptation of the Japanese manga story Hana yori Dango (Boys Over Flowers). The series has been widely popular in East Asia.

– Hsu is the write of two beauty-related books, Beauty Queen and Beauty Queen II: Female Celebrities Exposed. According to Taipei Times, Beauty Queen II shifted 800,000 copies in China and Taiwan within two months of its release. (She shares some of her beauty secrets with the Japanese readers in the July issue of Biteki.)

– Most importantly, July 2008 sees the launch of Biteki’s Chinese Edition. Even though some popular Japanese fashion magazines already publish Chinese editions, this is a first for a Japanese beauty magazine. Despite the fact that Japanese beauty products have long been popular in the nearby Chinese-speaking regions, I am still deeply fascinated by this move from Biteki.

At the moment I don’t have full information on whether the Chinese edition is in Traditional or Simplified Chinese, but I’d imagine that it would be in both. (Currently, Traditional Chinese is used in Taiwan and Hong Kong, while Simplified Chinese is used in China and Singapore.)

It seems to me that the presence of Japanese cosmetics is slowly going international (even though, presumably, the Biteki Chinese edition will focus on what is available locally instead of a translation of the Japanese version). According to recent reports from Nikkei Net, not only is Shiseido expanding retail points in China, Europe, and Middle East, the Maquillage Fall 2008 collection will include items in collaboration with British designer Christopher Kane and the ad campaign will feature model of the moment Agyness Deyn. (Well, I’d say why not just bring Maquillage to the UK….)

These are all very interesting developments, and I will try my best to keep you updated.

Related Posts:

Biteki – My Ultimate Beauty Archive

Japanese Cosmetics in the UK

All about Japanese Cosmetics

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(Mini Rouge W)
(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

On June 5th in Japan, there will be more items from Anna Sui‘s summer 2008 collection being released. They include:

Mini Rouge W (limited-edition, 3 shades, seen above)

Bath & Body Primary Kit: The set includes a pouch with Hair Shampoo, Conditioner, and Body Shampoo, each in a travel-size 60ml bottle.

(Bath & Body Primary Kit)
(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

Hair Spray G: A hair-conditioning product (not a styling product).

UV Body Spray G: SPF 30/ PA+++

(Left: Anna Sui UV Body Spray G
Right: Anna Sui Hair Spray G)
(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

These items join the currently available eyeliner pencils, mascaras, and nail colors as the full lineup of the Anna Sui summer 2008 collection.

Mini Rouge, released last fall (packaged in black cases), has been very popular, so I am sure these three white limited-edition ones will be equally coveted. (As far as I know, the black Mini Rouge shades are not limited-edition items.)

Related Posts:

Anna Sui Lip & Eye Luxury Palettes

Loving Japanese Brands – Anna Sui

My Latest Foundation Cases

(featuring Anna Sui and Jill Stuart)

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(More from Coffret D’Or fall 2008)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

I have been quite excited about Coffret D’Or’s early fall 2008 collection, and now there is more.

On July 16th, Coffret D’Or will release Part II of its early fall 2008 collection, which includes:

Fluffy Shine Eyes (new, 5 shades, seen above)
Combient Rouge (5 new shades)

The Fuffy Shine Eyes shades look soft and wearable. I am liking the lilac and the pale cool green at the moment. I think the emphasis will be on shimmer rather than pigmentation.

I’d like to see swatches of these to have an idea of the finish, as I much prefer something not too shimmery or glittery. Before that, I will concentrate on saving up for the upcoming Trance Deep Eyes palettes.

Related Posts:

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Purple and Gold Variations

Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge in RS-241 & RS-242

Lavshuca Fall 2008 Collection

Kate Fall 2008 Collection

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