all about Japanese cosmetics

Creating Your New(ish) Foundation Refill

by PJ on Wednesday, September 17, 2008

in -Shiseido, -ZA, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

I am sure many of you have been doing what I do with powder foundations, but since I was again making a new refill a couple of days ago, I thought I’d document it and share it with you.

Some of us who regularly use a powder foundation might find that, as we get towards the end of a refill, the application takes longer and longer as the sponge has to dig into the corners. It can be a bit of a pain, and we just want to open up a new refill.

Some years ago, with several nearly finished refills like those you see above (from different brands actually), I decided to try putting all the powder together and I was a little surprised to see how much powder was actually left on each tray. So I started to save somewhat finished refills to make a new one later. (I stopped pushing my sponge to the very end…)

The steps are what you see in the photos below:

1. Find a small (and perfectly clean) spoon or spatula. (I prefer a plastic one to a metal one.)

2. Start scraping! (Imagine that you are clearing the corners of a delicious Japanese bento box.)

3. Realize how much powder is still left.

4. Put all the leftover powder into one tray. (Here, I have powder from four nearly finished refills of ZA Two-Way Foundation.)

5. With your spoon/spatula, gently pat the powder down.

6. Lay a piece of tissue (which I have folded here) on top of the powder, and apply even and firm pressure with your fingers. Pay specific attention to the corners.

7. Reveal your (semi-)new refill! (The one here is about 75-80% full and will last quite a while for me.)

Tips:

1. Obviously the powder is not pressed to an industrial standard, so we have to be slightly more light-handed with the sponge than usual.

2. Sometimes our complexions can be between two shades with our favorite foundations, and sometimes we are happy with a shade but not the finish. These steps are good for customizing your own powder foundation, as you can mix and match from the same brand or different brands.

3. Make sure you store the nearly-finished refills in a clean/dry place just like your new ones. (I always save the refill boxes for this purpose.)

I hope you find this useful. If you have any related tip that you would like to share with us, do please post it in the comment section!

More beauty-related tips:

Can’t Live Without – Starbucks Napkins

Seasonal Sales on Cosmetics in the UK

Would you like some samples?

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Kanebo Coffret D’Or Christmas 2008 Release

by PJ on Wednesday, September 17, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo seems to be among the first Japanese beauty companies to unveil their holiday 2008 releases. We’ve heard about some of the items from Kate, Lavshuca, and Lunasol, and now it is the palettes from Coffret D’Or.

Coffret D’Or will release its first holiday collection on November 16th in Japan. (The line was launched in December last year with the spring 2008 collection.) The Party Makeup Collection includes two versions of the eye and lip palette, one cooler (Sweet Dress) and one warmer (Noble Dress).

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Both palettes include three eyeshadows (a base color, a shimmery color and a dark color) and three lip colors (a glow-type lip color (sheer and glossy), a color-type lip color (more pigmented) and a shimmery gloss).

Holiday palettes from Japanese brands are mostly about wearability (good as presents for others) and collectibility (good as presents…for yourself…), and they rarely make any bold statement in terms of color combinations. But if you like shimmer and sparkles, holiday palettes from Japanese brands often have a lot of them.

I like the fact that the design of the compact is in keeping with the Coffret D’Or look that we have quickly come to be familiar with (but with a nice little curvy twist). The shades themselves are not calling out to me yet, but I certainly prefer the cooler palette and I think we’ll see more appealing photos of them on magazines and the Coffret D’Or website later.

One thing worth mentioning is that, in photos, some palettes from Japanese brands can create an illusion of size. (I have had experiences of thinking the palettes look a lot smaller in person…or maybe it is just that I usually like larger and more substantial-looking palettes.) I think one thing we can look at in the photo above is the size/length of the applicators (which should be the standard small ones in Japanese palettes) in relation to the size of the palette. I am guessing that these will be around the same size as the very compact Lavshuca Summer Gradually Compacts (which are about 3.7x12cm and are very slim).

Thoughts in Brief – Blusher, Primers, and Jasmin Noir

by PJ on Friday, September 12, 2008

in -Bulgari, -Chanel, -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - blusher

(Les Tissages de Chanel)
(image from www.iswii.net)

I came across some items I was looking forward to testing out in shops earlier this week, and here are my thoughts in brief. (I only tested them on the back of my hands, not on my face.)

– Chanel (Les Tissage de Chanel)

Those of you who find the Irréelle Blush range to be too sheer might be interested in knowing that the powder of this new range is soft and more pigmented. Among the four shades available at the moment, Pink (seen above) and Rose are more of my shades. But Pink is a little too Barbie-pink for me (it is brighter than the color seen above) and Rose is a little too warm for me. Plus, all shades come with gold flecks (I prefer matte blushers). I personally still prefer the Irréelle range and Les Tissages de Chanel is now off my shopping list for the moment.

Even though they are priced at 29 GBP, which is expensive, I think the smooth texture and the shimmer should still tempt many people.

– Paul & Joe (Moisturizing Foundation Primer)

As I was expecting, 01 and 02 seem similar to the previous versions (Foundation Primer N in 01 (reviewed earlier) and 02). I was under the impression that 03, the new shade, would be sheerer and more shimmery, but I wasn’t totally right. It goes on sheer, but it has more or less the same level of (subtle) shimmer as 01 and 02, which is good to know. It is supposed to further condition the skin without adding any color before your foundation and to help the foundation stay on longer.

However, even though the texture of all three shades are basically the same, 03 is formulated differently and has alcohol. It is a real shame. (I nearly decided to buy it.)

– Laura Mercier (Eye Basics)

I tried Eyebright (light blue) and Cotton (off-white cream). I was delighted with the light and almost fluffy texture. It was very easy to blend and I was impressed by how quickly and firmly it set. Also, it didn’t seem to budge, even under a bit of rain. It does seem to be water-resistant, as the Laura Mercier website claims.

– Bulgari (Jasmin Noir)

I like Bulgari’s Voile de Jasmin, and I was looking forward to the new Jasmin Noir. It is deeper and more intense, and it is more of an evening scent that is launched for the right season. It seems to be more complex than Voile de Jasmin and overall it feels less floral. It also smells far less of jasmine than Voile de Jasmin, which I think I like a lot better. (By the way, Harrods was launching B de Boucheron in the fragrance hall. I didn’t like it enough to want to buy it, but to me it was quite appealing.)

You can read more about both Jasmin Noir and B de Boucheron on Now Smell This. (It seems that the reviewer also thinks Jasmin Noir’s jasmine note is faint.)

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

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A Touch of Blusher talks…blushers!

by PJ on Thursday, September 11, 2008

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - blusher, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(It’s more than just A Touch of Blusher, it seems…)

One of the things I try to do on my blog is to share my thoughts on beauty items from both East (mostly Japan) and West. Today I’ll be talking about blushers and, specifically, how pigmented western and Japanese blushers tend to be.

Very generally, there seems to be a wider range of pigmentation levels in blushers from western brands than in Japanese brands. For example, among the ones you see in the photo, Chanel’s Irréelle Blush is quite sheer, while the ones from MAC and NARS are very pigmented. Japanese blushers, like those from Majolica Majorca, Lavshuca and AYURA, are more towards the sheer side.

One of the reasons seems to be that many western makeup brands cater to a wide variety of skin tones (in terms of dark/light as well cool/warm). On the other hand, most major Japanese brands are either sold locally in Japan or within East Asia where there isn’t such a wide range of skin tones. I think people with darker skin tones will find that some blushers from Japanese brands are simply too sheer and don’t really show up on the skin.

Another reason, I think, is that Japanese customers seem to see the role of blushers slightly differently. This is reflected by the fact that some Japanese brands either categorize blushers as part of base makeup (along with primers and foundations) or release new blushers along with new base makeup items.

In most cases, for them, and many customers in Asia, blushers, when worn, just like foundations or concealers, are not to be seen. Like a freshly powdered face that should look ultra-natural (which is something Japanese base makeup excels at), blushers should simply make the face look healthy and slightly flushed, and nothing more. I think this is the main reason why most Japanese blushers are softly pigmented with relatively basic but natural colors. (The shade range is often small.) Even though some of them have shimmer, they still look natural and glowy, not glittery.

But there are of course exceptions. The shimmery particles in Canmake’s Loose Cheek are bigger than the norm in Japanese cosmetics and I think it definitely appeals more to a younger consumer group. (Many thanks to my friend Lynn for having me try this item.) Also, as Shu Uemura has been a professional beauty brand available globally, its blusher range features a very wide variety of shades.

I think, overall, I have been enjoying using Japanese blushers more. It is much harder to go wrong with the shade choices, mainly because most shades are quite natural anyway and they are not that pigmented. Also, since I can be quite heavy-handed at times, I tend to find it easier to apply blushers from Japanese brands. Even for someone like me, who likes to wear blushers relatively sheer, I can still enjoy the fun of slowly building up the color intensity to the level I want.

What about you? Have you tried blushers from both sides of the world? What would be your verdict?

Blushers featured in the photo above:

From Japanese brands-

Majolica Majorca Cheek Customize in PK333 and OR211

Lavshuca Cheek Color in PK-1

AYURA Aura Veil α in Sweet Pink

Albion Eprise Water Face Color in 100

From western brands-

Chanel Irréelle Blusher in Tea Rose

Fafi for MAC Powder Blush in Fashion Frenzy

Prescriptives Blush More Or Less Creamy Cheek Color in Thai Orchid

NARS Highlighting/Blush Duo in Albatross/Torrid

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Jill Stuart Cosmetics Available in the US Soon

by PJ on Wednesday, September 10, 2008

in -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics

(Illuminance Eyes and
Mix Blush Compact Illuminance)

Thanks to The Muse at Musings of a Muse and Jazmin at Makeup Moxie, I learned that Jill Stuart Cosmetics will be available in the US next year.

The report comes from The Wall Street Journal, which also suggests that the line will be launched in Hong Kong soon. (Jill Stuart’s beauty line is currently sold in Japan and Taiwan only.)

According to the report, the prices of the small selection of the line available soon in the US will be between 15 and 50 USD. It appears that the prices will be similar to those in Japan. (The Illuminance Eyes palette (pictured above) is among the more expensive Jill Stuart items and is priced at 5250 JPY, which is currently about 49 USD.) But it will depend on exactly what will be available in the US.

I think it will be interesting to see how well this edited version of the line does in the US and, more importantly (if the full line is introduced to the US), whether the overall direction of the line, from colors to packaging, will be modified to appeal to customers in both Asia and the US. We’ll soon find out.

Again I ask the question…will it make it to Europe? At the moment, I don’t think so…

Possible Jill Stuart Launch in the US?
(back in June 2007)

Jill Stuart Breaks Record

Loving Japanese Brands – Jill Stuart

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Lunasol Holiday 2008 Release

by PJ on Wednesday, September 10, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Lunasol will release items for the holiday 2008 period on November 15th in Japan. The lineup includes:

– Full Glamour Lips S: 3 shades
– Full Glamour Gloss S: 3 shades
– Shining Face Color: 1 shade (a shimmery lavender-toned pressed powder)
– Lip Essence (for Night) Kit: a lip moisturizer and a treatment lip mask

The “moonlight purification” themed collection will feature “soft silver” shimmer in Full Glamour Lips S and Full Glamour Gloss S.

If things remain the same as previous years, there will also be a coffret coming out. I will be looking forward to that.

Also, Lunasol has released the (limited-edition) 2008 Base Makeup Kit on August 28th.

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)

The kit includes:

– Water Cream Foundation (30g, full size)
– Creamy Makeup Base (30g, full size)
– Micro Finish Powder N (3.5g)
– Morning Wakening Massage (10g)
– Night Refining Cream (10g)
– Makeup Pouch

The kit is priced at 8925 JPY, which is the prices of Water Cream Foundation and Creamy Makeup Base combined. If you would like to try some key base and skincare products from Lunasol, this would be a good opportunity. (The foundation would be more suitable for drier skin.)

Lunasol Fall 2008 Collection

Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral

Lunasol Full Glamour Gloss in Bright Pink

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AYURA Night Meditation

by PJ on Wednesday, September 10, 2008

in -Ayura, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance

(AYURA Night Meditation)
(image from i-voce2.com)

On October 23rd, AYURA will release a brand new fragrance, Night Meditation. Featuring notes of sandalwood and bamboo, Night Meditation aims to be a calming scent that is used in the evening, particularly at bedtime.

This cologne will be available in 20ml. I think the portable size is meant to be suitable for travelling as it can help create a feel of familiarity and comfort (if the scent appeals to you, of course).

I personally think this is a significant release from AYURA as well as something I am really looking forward to. Since AYURA was launched in 1995, Spirit of AYURA has been AYURA’s only fragrance. Not only has it been one of my favorite scents, it has consistently been listed on readers’ favorite fragrance lists on Japanese beauty magazines over the years (while other scents come and go).

(part of the Spirit of AYURA range)
(image from www.ayura.co.jp)

If you are interested, you can get a sense of the scent from the note chart (on AYURA’s English site), which was added to the site only very recently. It is a beautiful light floral with a hint of green tea, but, for me, the stroke of genius is the very subtle addition of Chinese ink.

I always thought the scent was so wonderfully unique but I couldn’t figure out exactly why it was so. Then, I read more about it several years ago and realized it must have been the inclusion of Chinese ink. (It was one of those “That’s it!” moments.) According to the AYURA website, the addition of Chinese ink is “to express a noble translucence”. Indeed, the note is very sheer, but it can never be ignored.

But, however much I love Spirit of AYURA, I wouldn’t assume I will like Night Meditation. I will have to wait and see.

Related Posts:

My Three Favorite Fragrances

AYURA Fall 2008 Makeup Collection

Loving Japanese Brands – AYURA

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Kanebo Milano Collection 2009

by PJ on Friday, September 5, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Kanebo Milano Collection, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/milano-collection)

Milano Collection is an annual release of a luxury pressed powder and an eau de parfum from Kanebo. I believe it is only available in Asia.

The Milano Collection 2009 includes:

– Milano Collection 2009 Face Up Powder (SPF 14, PA ++)

The set retails for 12600 JPY. Cosme.Net also quotes 21000 JPY for the set plus an extra refill. The powder puff includes high-quality silk produced in Kyoto.

(image from www.cosme.net)

– Milano Collection 2009 Eau de Parfum

It is a rose-based scent which also features notes of cassis, apple, lemon, camomile, jasmine, melon, musk, and amber. It retails for 15750 JPY for 60ml.

This is a pre-order-only collection, and the pre-order period ends on September 19th. The eau de parfum will be available for collection on November 16th and the Face Up Powder will be available on December 16th.

You can see all the annual designs of the pressed powder from 1991 here.

My Foundation Routine

Sofina Raycious Case Galore

“An Unprecedented Masterpiece”: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

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Lavshuca Holiday 2008 Release

by PJ on Thursday, September 4, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Lavshuca will release Stick Eyeshadows on November 1st in Japan. Eight shades will be available.

They are mostly various tones of neutrals, plus a pastel pink and blue and quite a striking violet.

Their main appeals are the ease of use and the dual function. Apart from being eyeshadows, they can double as eyeliners.

Last year, Lavshuca released a cute lip and eye palette for the holiday season. I am hoping there will be more to come from Lavshuca later on!

Updated on October 21st, 2008:

Please check out this post to see more of Lavshuca’s holiday 2008 collection.

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brand – Lavshuca

Lavshuca Fall 2008 Collection

Lavshuca Face Powder

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Kate Holiday 2008 Release

by PJ on Thursday, September 4, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Kate, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Riding on the success of Gel Eyeliners, Kate will release Gel Eyeshadows on November 1st in Japan.

Eight shades are available, with two different finishes among them. The pastels have a translucent feel, while the three darker shades are more pigmented. All shades have shimmer.

It might have already occurred to you that they seem similar to Coffret D’Or’s July release, Fluffy Shiny Eyes. Both Kate and Coffret D’Or are Kanebo lines, so I wouldn’t be surprised if they have a similar texture and finish. But notice that Kate’s lineup features the three darker colors not available in Fluffy Shiny Eyes.

Updated on November 11th, 2008:

Please see more of Kate’s holiday 2008 releases here.

Kate – Lavshuca’s Darker, Edgier Sister

Kate Fall 2008 Collection

Kate Summer 2008 Collection

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