all about Japanese cosmetics

A Class Act: SUQQU Creamy Lipstick

by PJ on Thursday, June 12, 2008

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - lip color, stash focus

(SUQQU Creamy Lipstick in 22 Benikoji)

Ever since I visited the SUQQU counter (English site here) in London’s Selfridges for the first time, the brand has a special place in my makeup-loving heart.

The quality of some of their makeup items is sublime. Apart from their base makeup products, which SUQQU is renowned for, the texture of their eyeshadows and blushers (and the way the powder melts into the skin) is unparalleled. (I am just waiting for a lilac palette to be released…)

(However, some SUQQU’s skincare products feature excessive alcohol. I personally don’t recommend them.)

Today I am focusing on the SUQQU Creamy Lipstick I have. I very briefly mentioned it earlier, but I think this item more than deserves its own post.

The defining characteristic of SUQQU’s Creamy Lipsticks is the wonderfully rich emolliency. It feels very creamy (but not heavy) on the lips and the color glides on with tremendous ease. Out of all my lipsticks, this one is the most moisturizing. (But I do still always apply a lip balm underneath all lipsticks and lip glosses. It has been a habit of mine for years.) Even when my lips are sometimes not as conditioned as they normally are, especially in winter, the color still goes on quite evenly.

#22 Benikoji is a soft beige pink. I don’t really like nude lipsticks, and this shade is probably as nude as I would ever go. It is moderately pigmented but can be layered for more intensity, and it has no multi-colored micro shimmer that a lot of lipsticks from Japanese brands have. It goes on slightly lighter and imparts a beautiful sheen that does not look greasy. The soft sheen looks classy and understated.

The moisture, finish and color are all long-lasting. Also, for me, apart from the lovely color, this lipstick makes the lips both look and feel ultimately conditioned.

The Creamy Lipstick costs 5250 yen in Japan (about 50 USD) and 24 pounds in the UK. It is expensive, but, for the outstanding quality, I think it is worth it. I have not been planning on getting another color (since I would love to have a SUQQU eye palette first), but I would still be interested in getting a slightly darker and cooler lipstick color.

If you are going to Japan, Thailand, or the UK this summer (SUQQU is currently only available in these three countries), do have a look at SUQQU’s items. You can find all the current SUQQU retail points in the three countries here.

– Please head over to Autumn Masquerade for a brief review of Blend Eyeshadow palette in #06 Touryoku from SUQQU’s spring 2008 collection.

– If you are interested (and read Chinese), please check out this great post on various SUQQU makeup products, including the Creamy Lipstick. I fully agree with the writer that, again, even though this lipstick is expensive, it is absolutely worth it.

Related Posts:

SUQQU Breaks Records
(a brand profile with my personal take)

SUQQU Makeup Base Creamy & Brightup

SUQQU Spring 2008 Collection

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Japanese Cosmetics Brand Profile – New Category Added

by PJ on Wednesday, June 11, 2008

in all about Japanese cosmetics, announcement



A new post category, Japanese Brand Profile, has been added to the “Read by Topics” list on my blog sidebar.

Under this category, you will find my recent brand-focus posts, posts on news of brand launches, and others where I briefly profile a brand within a product review.

The posts in my Loving Japanese Brands series, which highlights my seven favorite Japanese beauty brands, are also placed in this category for your ease of navigation.

More posts will be added to this category as I continue to highlight other Japanese beauty brands. Some future posts include profiles on Kanebo Freeplus (up later this week), Ettusais, Kesalan Patharan, Lissage, and ECM. Please stay tuned!

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Kanebo Lissage Fall 2008 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, June 11, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lissage, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(part of Lissage’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

The currently Kanebo-owned Lissage was launched in 1992 and remained a predominantly skincare-focused (high-end) brand. (The pricings are similar to Lunasol’s.) Last fall, the brand went through a revamp and a readjustment of brand focus, and its products have been getting more print media coverage in Japan.

(Lissage Ltd. also owns ECM and Bath Tours. I will post more detailed brand profiles of Lissage and ECM later on.)

On August 16th, Lissage will launch its fall 2008 makeup collection, which includes:

– Nuance Fit Eyes (eye palette): 4 variations
– Long Curl Mascara: 1 shade
– Long Curl Mascara Base: 1 shade
– Contrast Eyeliner: 2 shades
– Slim Eyebrow: 3 shades
– Creamy Fit Rouge: 6 shades
– Lip Base Liner: 3 shades
– Lip Repair Serum
– Blush Veil: 2 new shades

(The holders of Contrast Eyeliner, Slim Eyebrow and Lip Base Liner refills are sold separately.)

(Lissage Blush Veil for spring 2008)
(image from www.lissage.jp)

Many Japanese makeup lines are quite specific about the consumers they are trying to appeal to. Somewhat similar to Twany Glamacy, the Lissage point makeup line focuses on understated basics that suit makeup-wearing consumers in corporate settings in Japan that tend to go for clean and low-key colors (as well as packaging).

Items of these two brands might not look as impressive on magazine pages as those from the dreamy Jill Stuart and the trend-setting Dior, but I think they do have a reasonably wide appeal to those who (have to) wear makeup on a daily basis but don’t necessarily use makeup to express themselves in certain sterile office environments. If you regularly stock up trust-worthy essentials, this line is worth following up on.

Fall 2008 collections from other Kanebo-owned brands/lines:

CHICCA

Lavshuca

Kate

Coffret D’Or (early fall 2008 collection)

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Cosme Decorte AQ Color Makeup Renewal for Fall 2008

by PJ on Monday, June 9, 2008

in -AQ, -Cosme Decorte, -Kosé, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(part of Cosme Decorte’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)


AQ (Absolute Quality) is Cosme Decorte‘s (owned by Kosé) top-end skincare and makeup line. AQ’s point* (color) makeup line was launched in 2000 and features some of the most expensive makeup items in Japan.

On August 21st, the existing AQ point makeup line will be replaced by new items with brand new packaging.

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

The new AQ makeup collection for fall 2008 includes:

– Rouge Supreme: 10 shades
– Shadow Supreme (eye palettes): 5 variations
– Light Focus (base/highlighter): 3 shades
– Nuance Glow (highlighter): 3 shades
– Face Color (blusher): 5 shades
– Mascara Excellent: 2 shades
– Liquid Eyeliner: 5 shades
– Pencil Eyeliner: 2 shades
– Pencil Eyebrow: 4 shades
– Lip Liner: 7 shades
– Nail Supreme: 10 shades

With Japanese cosmetics, renewals (particularly with makeup) are usually more about updating the packaging than the actual formulation of products. In Japan’s fiercely competitive beauty market, product packaging has to stay fresh and up-to-date, and many brands revamp the look of their products in their own time frames and either minimally (like Anna Sui and Lunasol) or drastically (like Sofina Aube). Replaced items are either phased out quickly or discontinued immediately.

(part of Cosme Decorte’s summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.biteki.com)

For me, AQ’s packaging renewal is successful. The current packaging (seen above) looks clean and sophisticated but slightly lacks character. The new look is opulent and glamorous. I think Cosme Decorte has worked out a look for AQ that goes with its prices. The lipsticks and blushers are particularly pricey:

Rouge Supreme: 6300 yen (about 59 USD)
Face Color: 7350 yen (about 69 USD)

In contrast, the Shadow Supreme eye palettes (6825 yes, about 64 USD) almost seem relatively reasonable. (The price is about the same as that of a Dior 5-color eye palette in the UK.) If I decide to try an item from AQ, the eye palette will probably be my choice.

* In Japanese cosmetics, the term “point makeup” (constantly written as “point make” in Japan) refers to color makeup items like eyeshadows, mascaras, lipsticks and lip glosses. On the the hand, “base makeup” (“base make”) refers to items such as primers, concealers, foundations, and loose/pressed powder (and not just bases (primers)).

Other Fall 2008 Makeup Collections:

Chanel

CHICCA

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Lunasol Fall 2008 Collection – Red Purification

by PJ on Monday, June 9, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(part from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Many of Lunasol‘s past makeup collection themes are based on the idea of “purification”. So far, we’ve had:

“Scent Purification” for fall 2006 (Scent Form Eyes)
“Brilliance Purification” for fall 2007 (Geminate Eyes)
“Color Purification” for spring 2008 (Sheer Contrast Eyes)

The clear brand philosophy and the individual yet coherent seasonal makeup themes are what set Lunasol apart from the other Japanese makeup brands, and their brand image has always been very appealing to me.

For fall 2008, it will be all about red, as Lunasol brings us the theme “Red Purification“. For a change, Lunasol’s latest collection will focus on the lips, and 16 red lipsticks take center stage.

All the items are brand new and are not new shades added to the existing items. The full Lunasol fall 2008 lineup includes:

– Full Glamour Lips S: 16 shades
– Contrasting W Lip Liners: 2 shades
– Noble Shade Eyes: 5 variations
– Noble Shade Liner: 3 shades
– Brow Styling Compact: 2 variations
– Coloring Cheeks: 2 shades (refill only, case and applicator sold separately)

Apart from the color makeup items, the fall lineup will also include Nuance Change Foundation B (2 shades), which is supposed to be Lunasol’s equivalent of YSL’s Touche Éclat. The new skincare addition will be Lip Essence, with SPF 20 and PA+.

The collection will be launched in Japan on August 22nd.

I would describe this collection as both classic and edgy, with beautiful red lipsticks and rather bold red-toned eyeshadows. (It seems that each of the five Noble Shade Eyes palette will feature a shade of red.) I am really looking forward to seeing how these red eyeshadow shades will be worn on models in Japanese makeup magazines. Also, for those who look for the ultimate red lipstick, this collection is worth a serious look.

This seems to be another seasonal makeup collection from Lunasol that has a tremendously unique identity, and I think Japanese makeup fans will remember this collection for a long time.

I will update this post when I come across more information.

Updated on July 24th, 2008:

The Lunasol website has been updated.

Updated on August 21st, 2008:

Please check out this link for swatches of nearly all the items from Lunasol’s fall 2008 collection, including all the eye palettes, lipsticks, blushers, and eyeliners (from a Lunasol press event in Taiwan).

Other Posts on Lunasol:

Lunasol Summer 2008 Collection

Lunasol Full Glamour Gloss in Bright Pink

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol

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Kanebo Twany Glamacy Fall 2008 Collection

by PJ on Monday, June 9, 2008

in -Glamacy, -Kanebo, -Twany, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(part of the Twany Glamacy Fall 2008 Collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Twany Glamacy was launched in April with a full range of wearable basics. For fall 2008, more shades will be added to the existing items of the lineup, plus the new Mascara EU (Under-Eye), a mascara specifically for lower lashes.

The fall 2008 additions include:

– Eye Color UE (Under-Eye): 2 new shades
(luminous powder eye colors for the under-eye area)
– Eye Color Set (palette): 2 new variations
– Eyeliner Pencil: 1 new shade
– Gel Eyeliner: 1 new shade
– Mascara UE (Under-Eye): 1 shade
– Lipstick: 5 new shades
– Lip Liner: 2 new shades

(Apart from Eye Color and Eye Color UE, Twany Glamacy also has Eye Color UB (Under-Brow), which currently includes two eye colors specifically for highlighting the under-brow area.)

The collection will be launched in Japan on August 16th.

Other Fall 2008 Collections:

Coffret D’Or

Lavshuca

Kate

Sofina Aube

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Coffret D’Or Website Update

by PJ on Monday, June 2, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics

(Shibasaki Kou for Coffret D’Or Fall 2008)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

The Coffret D’Or website has been updated with the latest television commercials and the full lists of items used for the brand’s five makeup looks for fall 2008.

Enjoy!

Related Coffret D’Or Posts:

Trance Deep Eyes Palettes (for Fall 2008)

3D Lighting Eyes in Purple & Gold Variations

Full styling Rouge in RS-241 & RS-242

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Brand New Blog – Lotus Palace

by PJ on Saturday, May 31, 2008

in all about Japanese cosmetics, announcement

If you are a fan of Japanese cosmetics and a member of Makeup Alley, then you probably have read some of the great product reviews by Kathi (fleckenschnitte). To me, her reviews are always informative and often very “inspiring” (I am sure you know what I mean…).

Now Kathi has her own blog, Lotus Palace, where she continues to review beauty finds from Japan. It is also a great blog to check out if you are looking for information on Korean cosmetics.

From now on, you will be able to find the link to her blog from my “Loving These Sites” list. I hope you will enjoy her blog as well!

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Japanese Cosmetics Focus: Sonia Rykiel

by PJ on Thursday, May 29, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Sonia Rykiel, all about Japanese cosmetics

(part of Sonia Rykiel’s Summer Makeup Collection:
Divines Vacances)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

Like Paul & Joe and Elégance, Sonia Rykiel is a French fashion brand (which I personally like very much). But, just like the brands mentioned above, the Sonia Rykiel beauty line is essentially Japanese and is developed and manufactured in Japan for Japanese and Asian consumers in general.

During my trip to Paris several years ago, staff in the Sonia Rykiel boutique confirmed that the line was not sold in France. At the moment, it is available in Japan, Korea, Taiwan, Hong Kong, Singapore, and Macau. (Please check Sonia Rykiel Beauté’s international shoplist for details of retail points outside Japan.)

The Sonia Rykiel beauty line features full skincare, base makeup, and color makeup ranges. All three areas have been performing relatively well in the Asian market. But the brand is particularly famous for its base makeup range. Their Treatment Makeup Base and Water Gel Foundation (both have been updated a couple of times in the past years) have been Sonia Rykiel’s best-selling products. (The brand claims that 80% of Water Gel Foundation, seen below in the center, is water and that it is an ultra-moisturizing foundation.)

(Left to right:
Treatment Powder Foundation,
Water Gel Foundation,
and Moisture Arising Cream Foundation)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

Skincare-wise, I have tried several samples, and the one that left me with a very good impression is the cleansing oil. It cleansed well, rinsed easily, and left no oily residue. (It has also been updated so I can’t say for sure how well the current version works.)

One of Sonia Rykiel’s best-selling skincare products is Hydra Premier Primer Moisture Essence (seen below). As I mentioned a couple of times in the past, many Japanese brands feature more elaborate skincare routines, and this product reflects this. This is a light serum-type product that is used right after cleansing and before any other skincare item is applied. It is supposed to work as a “primer” for subsequent skincare products and help them absorb better.

(Hydra Premier Primer Moisture Essence)
(image from www.soniarykiel-cosmetics.com)

I got a trial sample of this several years ago, and, to my surprise, alcohol was one of the major ingredients. (Maybe it shouldn’t be a surprise, since alcohol features heavily in Japanese skincare products.) I have to say I would never put this on my face. In the ad above, to me, it’s a splash of (irritating) alcohol, not a splash of water…

I am a lot more pleased with Sonia Rykiel’s makeup products. I have Mono Eyeshadow in #16 and Aqua Cheek Color in 01. Sonia Rykiel revamped the entire color makeup line about two years ago, so both were discontinued (which is why I haven’t touched upon them since I started my blog).



I especially like the Mono Eyeshadow. Its smooth and silky texture rivals that of some of the best eyeshadows I have tried in the last couple of years. (The finish of this particular shade is luminous matte with very little shimmer.) The Aqua Cheek Color is a stick blusher with a cream-to-powder texture. This pigmented blusher takes a bit of time to blend, but the velvety finish is beautiful and long-lasting.

Overall, this is a brand that I do constantly pay attention to, especially its base and color makeup items. (Currently, I am quite interested in the eyeshadow palettes, loose powder, and lip glosses.) Their seasonal makeup collections are often very visually pleasing.

If you are going to Asia this summer and are interested in checking out beauty lines not available in the west, this brand is worth a look. (In Tokyo in particular, Sonia Rykiel Beauté is available in major department stores such as Takashimaya Shinjuku, Isetan Shinjuku, and Seibu Ikebukuro. All have heavenly beauty departments which cover a great variety of brands.)

Edited on May 30, 2008:

Sonia Rykiel is a high-end line and its pricing is similar to Lunasol’s. A Sonia Rykiel lipstick costs about 33 USD and a 4-color eye palette costs about 50 USD in Japan. All the items’ retail prices in Japan are listed on the Sonia Rykiel Beauté website.

On Other Japanese Cosmetics:

– Vecua

– Elégance

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Maquillage Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310

by PJ on Wednesday, May 28, 2008

in -Maquillage, -Shiseido, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - lip color, stash focus

(Maquillage Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310)

Since I tried Maquillage‘s Clean Contrast Eyes in SV844, I had wanted to try something else from the line. I decided to go for one of their lipsticks and picked up Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310, from Maquillage’s spring 2008 lineup.

RS310 is medium warm rose and goes on a little more vibrant. It has a natural and slightly glossy finish. It goes on easily and the color and finish last well. While it is not the most moisturizing lipstick I have, it is not drying. (So far, my SUQQU lipstick is probably the most moisturizing lipstick I’ve had.)

I was expecting the Lasting Climax Rouge range to be quite sheer, and I was surprised by the medium pigmentation level when I tried the sample card, which contained five shades (but didn’t contain RS310). RS310 also has a medium color pay-off, while its pigmentation level is slightly lower than that of Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color.

In terms of the finish, compared with Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color and Lavshuca Jewelry Lips, this one is slightly glossier and has a tad more micro-shimmer. But it doesn’t have a frosty/metallic finish, which I don’t like.

Shade-wise, it is lighter, warmer and slightly more vivid than Coffret D’Or Full Styling Rouge Color in RS-241 and Lavshuca Jewelry Lips in PK-1. It is quite a girlie color.

Overall, as an RS (Rose) shade, Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310 is relatively vibrant, and I feel it is more of a cool PK (Pink) shade than a typical RS shade from Japanese brands. (Many RS shades I have seen are more muted.) I personally prefer to wear it for the evening (without layering it too much). For daytime, I simply gently dab it on for a mild stained look.

For another review (written in Chinese, with this very shade worn on lips), please check out this post.

Updated on June 6th, 2008:

Please check out the review of RD359 on Autumn Masquerade.


————

Thoughts on photographing lipsticks: I have personally observed that capturing the actual color of a lipstick is a lot trickier than showing that of, for example, an eyeshadow. I think it is because the lipstick itself is more dimensional. A friend of mine commented that it might also be because it is in a semi-liquid form. (Interestingly, I don’t really have this issue with lip glosses. Maybe it is because they are inside solid containers.) The lipstick color in the photo you see above is closest to its actual color under sunlight. (I don’t tend to digitally fine-tune color, brightness, or contrast of my photos for my reviews.)

The two photos below are taken within minutes of the one above. As you can see, in terms of the lipstick color, the first one looks slightly warmer (than the one above), while the second one looks darker and cooler.



(You can see that, in the second one, less light is reflected back to the camera and the lipstick shade looks darker. When it comes to photographing other makeup items, there is usually not this degree of difference (when the amount of light reflected back to the camera slightly varies).)

Based on my experiences, I have also come to understand why a lipstick (in the container, not worn on a model’s lips), compared with other makeup items, can look so different in different magazines or even in different features in the same issue of a magazine.

————

Other Shiseido-Related Posts:

Maquillage Summer 2008 Collection

Can’t Live Without – ZA Two-Way Foundation

Budget Princess: Majolica Majorca


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