all about Japanese cosmetics

PJ’s Rankings: Christmas 2006 (10th to 7th)

by PJ on Sunday, December 10, 2006

in -Anna Sui, -Kanebo, 2006 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10


This week I reveal my top ten Christmas collections for 2006. It is purely based on my personal preference. I look at the variety within the range of the collection, and the design/packaging of the products. Here they are, in reverse order:

10. Marc Jacobs
I didn’t get to buy this last year, thinking that it would be on sale after Christmas. But I didn’t see any of them during the sale. So when I happened to see this again last month, I thought I had to get it (pictured centre). Each votive candle features a different scent: Marc Jacobs Perfume, Marc Jacobs Perfume Essence, and Blush. I have Blush already and I do love all of these scents, so this set is a good addition.

9. Anna Sui
The collection includes two purse-like palettes, one for lips and the other for eyes. It also includes a vanity case and a limited version of the Secret Wish perfume: Magic Romance. The princessy packaging lives on…

8. Clarins
It is all about diamond-shine for Clarins. The eyeliner works as a hair accessory. I like the fact that Clarins went all out for the shininess for the packaging. Some might think it is a bit over the top, but I think it is fine for this time of year. I don’t think this collection is available in the UK though.

7. Lunasol
A limited edition with a selection of products and a glamorous evening bag is very common across brands in Japan during the Christmas season. (Even western brands produce these sets only for the Japanese market.) Lunasol’s set includes an eye palette, a lip gloss, shimmering loose powder, a powder brush, and an evening bag. All the colors are sophisticated and wearable, even though the loose powder may be too sparkly for the face. The black evening bag is simple and elegant and it actually doesn’t look like a free gift, according to those who have purchased the sets.

Tomorrow: 6th to 4th.

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My Daily Skincare Routine

by PJ on Friday, December 8, 2006

in -Chanel, -Estée Lauder, -Lancôme, -RMK, -Shu Uemura, all about Japanese cosmetics, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

I don’t have naturally perfect skin. It is a bit sensitive, a bit oily, and a bit dry underneath all at the same time. These are the products that really work for me and help keep my skin in its best possible condition.

Morning:
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin
Chanel’s Soin Tendre Levres SPF 15
No7 Uplifting Day Cream SPF 15 (something more emollient for my neck)

Evening:
RMK Cleansing Oil (if I wear makeup during the day)
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Lancome Hydra Zen for Normal to Dry Skin
Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve (for lips)

I try to keep the routine simple. I don’t use an exfoliator or a moisturizing mask regularly. I have them and I use them when I need to. They are SOS products that I only use several times a year.

I don’t switch between products in different seasons. I simply apply a more generous amount of moisturizer in winter.

Also, I don’t use an eye cream. Eye creams are a complete marketing myth. A well-formulated moistuizer should work on the entire face, and there is no need to have another moisturizer that usually costs three times more than the facial moisturizer in the same line (in terms of unit price). I don’t have dark cycles, dry lines, and puffy eyes, and I don’t own an eye cream.

In terms of skincare, I think simpler is better. Cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreening are all you need.

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SUQQU in Selfridges London and Shu Uemura in Fenwick Bond Street

by PJ on Thursday, December 7, 2006

in -Shu Uemura, -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, all about Japanese cosmetics (overseas availability information), makeup, skincare



Finally I was at the SUQQU counter to see all the products for the first time yesterday. Wonderful service there, which reminded me of my trip to Japan when the sales assistants bowed to me after hearing my compliments on their products.

This time, she didn’t bow to me, but she did say “Thank you” when I complimented on their nice packaging. (Usually, at most other counters in the UK, I get the reply “It is indeed nice, isn’t it?” They will *never* say this in Japan. You are supposed to be thankful for a customer’s compliment, not to eagerly agree with it. Well, I know there is no right or wrong about this.)

I left with a Creamy Lip Stick in 22 Benikoji, a nice beige pink. I also got samples of HA Complex Lotion and HA Complex Emulsion. In true Japanese style, the sales assistant came around the counter and handed the bag to me with both hands. Again, I felt like I was in Takashimaya Shinjuku.

Later, I went to Fenwick Bond Street Christmas Shopping Evening. As I expected, there were loads of people in the beauty section. It’s because it was rare for a department store to have a 20% discount on all cosmetics and fragrances. (As far as I know, on special 20% off days, department stores like Debenhams and House of Fraser only do 10% on cosmetics and fragrances.) No surprise, the accessory section was full of people looking through all the “it” bags for this season.

I bought a few things, including the Depsea Therapy Moisture Recovery Nanowater. I left feeling satisfied and wanted to come back next year.

By the way, I saw Dior’s Asia-only “Ultra Shine 2” lipsticks in Harvey Nichols.

I will now save the money for the coming winter sale.

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2007 Spring Makeup Galore!

by PJ on Friday, December 1, 2006

in 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

I was on MakeupAlley last night and I came across something I was not prepared to see. Haruchan posted loads of photos (from Urb magazine January 2007) of 2007 spring makeup collections of various brands. (Usually Biteki does it on the March issue, which is why I didn’t expect this at this time of year.)

I could just feel money flying away from me as I browsed (okay, closely studied!) the photos…

I am sort of glad that there weren’t all the major brands. After all, I always need something to look forward to. It was only November (I saw the photos yesterday), for goodness sake!

There are already some stuff on my shopping list (even though I haven’t totally taken care of what is on my Christmas makeup list):

Jill Stuart eyeshadow palette 04
Lunasol lip gloss palette EX04
Anna Sui lip gloss
YSL Pure Lipstick 135
YSL eyeshadow palette 06
Estee Lauder blusher stick

For what’s new for other brands like Paul & Joe, Givenchy, Lancome, Giorgio Armani, NARS, Sonia Rykiel, IPSA, Visee, M.A.C (and many more), go to MakeupAlley *NOW*.

Thanks again, Haruchan!

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New on My Watch List: M.A.Couture and Shu Uemura Rouge Unlimited

by PJ on Wednesday, November 29, 2006

in -MAC, -Shu Uemura, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

I really like the packaging of the new MACouture collection. It is very chic and glamorous. I know it is more expensive than the usual MAC products (and it will be more expensive in the UK), but I will be more than happy to own a piece of it. Right now I am interested in MACouture Lipstick, Lipglass, and Sheer Mystery Powder.

The other thing is Shu Uemura’s new range of lipsticks “Rouge Unlimited“. I don’t normally like transparent packaging, but out of the 48 shades, there are a few interesting choices. The six artist shades (white, yellow, green, blue, purple, and black) are to be layered onto the other shades to give a sheer accent color, according to my Biteki magazine (November 2006). It also suggests PK308 as the base shade to experiment the layering. (You have to go to the Japanese website to see the shade. The color naming is different in the US. But I think it might be Nude Pink Pearl under Pink.) Can’t wait to see how the layering works, especially how the green and the blue layer on to the pink shade.

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Loving Japanese brands (7 of 7): Lunasol

by PJ on Monday, November 27, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Kanebo, -Lunasol, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Meaning “moon and sun”, Lunasol is a very chic and gown-up line from Kanebo Group. In the last few years, the packaging has changed twice but has always maintained a low-key demure image. It used to have a skincare collection but it was discontinued.

I am glad that Lunasol has been quite popular in a couple of other Asian countries. The brand does exude quality inside and out, and the whole collection seems to have a quiet confidence about it in the sea of attention-grabbing merchandise in department stores.

The first two Lunasol items I bought were the lipstick and the powder case, and I bought them on my first trip to Tokyo when Lunasol was only available in Japan. I was then able to fit my own Kanebo foundation cake into the case. (I think all the foundation cakes from most Kanebo-owned lines should fit into one another’s cases.)

I don’t usually go for simple designs (I like glamourous and intricate designs, like Jill Stuart and Anna Sui), but there is something very elegant and sophisticated about Lunasol that really appeals to me. Even though I still prefer the silver and copper-beige square design when the line debuted, the current rich and glossy chocolate-brown look has a great sense of low-key glamour.

Their blusher is the only peach-tone blusher I have (in 03 Light Orange). (It seems to have been discontinued in Japan. See the rest of the colors here.) Most of the time, cool or neutral pink blushers work better for me. (Warm-tone blushers usually make me look too flushed.) But this one actually looks slightly more neutral once it has sat on my face for a while.

The blusher itself, the case, and the brush have to be purchased separately, but the quality of the brush is very good. It is exceptionally soft and has a good density of hair.

The lip gloss I have is in 04 Bright Pink. It is not really a shockingly bright pink. It is a very natural pink with delicate shimmer. (See the rest of the lip products here).

Their 2006 Fall Collection (especially the eyeshadow palettes) and 2006 Holiday sets have been extremely popular.

In the last couple of years, Lunasol has been consistently launching great seasonal collections. Look out for what’s new in the coming year!

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Update: Gemma Ward fronts new cosmetics line in Japan

by PJ on Sunday, November 26, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Esprique (Precious), -Kosé, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(Gemma Ward for Esprique Precious)
(image from www.interwoman.co.jp)

Even though many Japanese companies love having western superstars as their spokespeople, it is relatively rare for Japanese cosmetics companies to do so. Usually they use famous local movie or television actresses, and a couple other companies prefer relatively unknown western models.

However, Shiseido first broke the tradition by having Angelina Jolie to front the new budget cosmetics line Integrate earlier this year (see the television commercial on YouTube here). Now, Kose has international supermodel Gemma Ward to front their new makeup line Esprique Precious.

The line will debut with a limited edition set on December 1st, and the whole collection will hit the shops on December 16th in Japan.

The packaging is surprisingly similar to Kose’s other skincare and makeup line Beaute de Kose. Esprique Precious will have all the basics: lip sticks/glosses/liners, eye shadows/liners/mascaras, eyebrow pencils, blushers, and the face powder (similar to Guerlain’s Meteorites Powder). I am particularly interested in the blushers and the face powder. We can’t see the prices of the items on the website yet. I am sure they will appear later.

Do have a quick glance at part of the line.

Tomorrow: Lunasol, the concluding post to my Loving Japanese Brands series

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Loving Japanese brands (6 of 7): Lavshuca

by PJ on Thursday, November 23, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Lavshuca is the latest addition to my favorite brands. It was launched in February this year and has foundation and color makeup products. (The flash version of the website is worth a look. It does a great job of attracting potential customers.)

Price-wise, it is also the cheapest. It is a shelf-top (budget) brand rather than a counter-top (premium) brand, so it is in the same league as Maybelline and Bourjois. (A single-color eyeshadow costs 840 Japanese yens, which is about 7.2 USD.) It is launched by Kanebo Cosmetics, so quality-wise, it is on the same level as RMK and Lunasol.

As with all my other favorites, one major part of Lavshuca’s appeal is in its packaging. (Kanebo launched Lavshuca in a bid to lure the image-conscious teenage market in Japan.) It has that dreamy quality, with a lot of curves and filigree patterns.

I have got the loose powder in the 2006 Fall Collection. It has a little light-reflective particles to add luminosity (not greasiness) to the complexion. The single-color eyeshadow I have has a really great texture.

For me, Lavshuca (and Shiseido’s Majolica Majorca) are the only two shelf-top brands that feature both top quality products and great packaging. No western budget brand comes even close. It would have no problem “looking expensive” if it had its own counter in a department store. Maybe this is part of the reason it has been extremely popular with teenagers and young 20-somethings in Japan. Other nearby countries in East Asia have already caught on the trend and many people there want a piece of Lavshuca as well.

As long as it keeps the dreaminess, the fun, and the coolness of the brand, I think Lavshuca will continue to be very popular.

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Japanese beauty magazine: Biteki

by PJ on Monday, November 20, 2006

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare

(Biteki magazine, August 2007)

Biteki is one of the major beauty magazines in Japan. There are others, such as Voce and Maquia, but Biteki has always been my firm favorite.

The magazine was launched in May, 2001. I think I have almost every issue. Even here in the UK, I subscribe to it at JP-Books in Mitsukoshi Department Store London. I pay the airmail rate so the latest issue arrives about 5 days after it is in store in Japan. The service at JP-Books is absolutely wonderful.

Biteki is like Allure in America (there is no equivalent in the UK!!), but I have to say Biteki is much better. First of all, it is much more up-to-date. The regular feature “launch calendar” lists all the major launches in the upcoming month, and there are comments on some of these new products from readers who were asked to try them by the magazine.

Second of all, it is *way* more comprehensive (there’s simply no comparison). Every March, June, September, and December issue has a major feature (for at least 20 pages) of virtually all the new seasonal makeup products (usually around 1000 items, mostly with actual-size photos) by all the major brands (around 45 brands).

Biteki focuses specifically on skincare and makeup. There is very little fashion, or even perfume. That’s what I like about Biteki. With it, I know everything I need to know about what to expect in the beauty market and I can make very informed purchase choices.

As mentioned earlier, there is no equivalent to such kind of magazine in the UK. Compared with British people, Japanese people are much more into skincare and makeup. They want to know everything and they enjoy staying updated. British people are much more laid-back about this and they don’t do nearly as much research. Certainly a huge cultural difference. (I would probably put American consumers in the middle. Websites like MakeupAlley and most blogs about beauty products are US-based, while there are extremely few beauty blogs in the UK.)

I have shown many issues of Biteki to my local Dior sale assistant. She loved them and agreed with me that there should be a magazine just about cosmetics in the UK. I wonder when it is ever going to happen…

Updated on October 24, 2007:

Photo of the cover of Biteki magazine August 2007 is added above.

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Loving Japanese brands (5 of 7): Sofina

by PJ on Sunday, November 19, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Sofina, part of the Kao Group, is a major cosmetics brand (along with Shiseido, Kanebo, and Kose). It has an efficient and no-nonsense concept of skincare and makeup with a sense of fun and enjoyment. It mostly appeals to the 20-something generation.

One of the two Sofina’s foundation lines, Raycious, is probably more popular than the skincare and the color makeup lines. The debut of the 1st-generation Raycious powder foundation in 2000 was a sensation. It was said to have sold 1 million in its first year in Japan.

The innovation of Raycious lies in the ultra-fine luminous pale-blue particles (which the blue packaging represents). It counteracts the dark orange undertone (which makes skin look dull and lifeless) and keeps the face bright (not shiny) and fresh-looking throughout the day. The color of the foundation does not fade or turn dull when the face gets oily.

When I tried it for the first time, I was amazed. All the advertising claims were lived up to. No wonder it sold so well. The color does not darken over time, unlike what usually happens with a lot of other foundations. And the foundation stays fresh throughout the day and my face actually looks more luminous (not greasy!) by the end of the day.

Each year the packaging and the formulation of the foundation change, so we’re in the 7th-generation in 2006. But the fine blue-based particles have always been the main feature of Raycious. This year, the new formulation is all about defining the facial contour, and the foundation case became as much of a talking point as the foundation itself when it features a three-way mirror (for seeing exactly how the foundation defines the contour of our faces from multiple angles).

Aube, Sofina’s color makeup collection, offers all the good basics for daily makeup. The packaging changes entirely every two years or so. New products replace existing ones season after season and we end up with a completely new line every two years, in line with the revamped packaging. The Spring 2007 Collection is mentioned in a previous post.

The daytime moisturizers with proper sunscreen ingredients are the most popular items in the skincare line. They are fresh and still great as a makeup base.

Packaging-wise, Sofina is the most down-to-earth one among all my favorite brands, but it consistently offers great and innovative products. I will always be its loyal customers.

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