all about Japanese cosmetics

(Pictured: my Ayura stash)

The new Ayura collection includes lipglosses, eye palettes, nail colors, and aromatic face absorbent paper. It is out on January 26th.

I quite like the lipglosses. The ones with three layers seem intriguing, especially the BL one. But the layers will probably merge after several uses.

The whole collection is soft and breezy. There are no garish colors. It might lack the drama that some people look for, but for me these are lovely items that can enhance our natural beauty.

I consistently like Ayura’s seasonal makeup collections. It always has something interesting, like the stunning creamy eyeshadows last autumn.

Ayura doesn’t have the ultra ornate packaging of Anna Sui or the glamorous look of Dior. But it is the epitome of elegance. The packaging is soft and feminine and so are most of the colors in the makeup line. Moderately pigmented and without too much glitter, the understated makeup is for everyday use and for most occasions.

To me, it is a brand I can always count on, and the new makeup collection proves it again.

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(Paul & Joe, Suqqu, Visee, and YSL…
so which side is winning?)


Several days ago, someone in the asian_beauty community over at LiveJournal asked me whether I preferred Japanese over western cosmetics. I gave an answer but was inspired to write a longer post here.

In terms of makeup, I do actually prefer Japanese products. I have ten favorite makeup brands and seven of them are Japanese. There are three main reasons:

1. I tend to go for sheer pigmentation for eyeshadows, blushers and lipsticks.

2. I love cute/elegant/princessy (depending on the brand) packaging. I know this is purely subjective. Brands like Pout and Benefit have more than merely functional packaging and they are known for cute and quirky images respectively, but I am never a fan. Not even Stila (sorry Stila fans)…I don’t like cartoon drawings on my makeup. On the other hand, brands like Ayura and Jill Stuart can do no wrong for me.

I don’t usually put my makeup items away in toiletry bags or drawers. I arrange them beautifully and display them happily on my dressing table and on the shelves. They are part of the room and part of the decor. I choose my makeup with the same aesthetic eye as I choose a table lamp or a coffee table.

The bottom line is, with many brands that have looks that appeal to me, when I need something (be it a lipstick or a foundation), I am usually able to find something that looks great, both on my face and in front of my eyes, and I will use it with more enthusiasm and joy.

And it just happens that most of these brands are Japanese.

3. A simple reason: most Japanese makeup items are scent-free.

Skincare-wise, I don’t have a preference. When I first started using skincare products, I chose them by reading the blurbs. If they sounded like something I wanted my skin to look like and if the price was within my budget, I would consider trying them. But over the years, I have learned to pay attention to the chemical aspects of skincare products. Now the first thing I look at when choosing skincare products is the ingredient list. I know what is good for my skin and what I should avoid.

In this case, the packaging is important in terms of preserving the antioxidants in, say, a moisturizer. A container with a pump dispenser is far better than a jar with a lid. (So of course we are not talking about aesthetics here.)

The thing with quite a few Japanese toners and moisturizers is that they tend to have alcohol to create that fresh feel after each use. But my sensitive skin can’t really tolerate that. (I don’t think alcohol should be in any skincare product anyway. It is potentially drying and irritating.) I do love some of the Shu Uemura products because they are alcohol-free and are so gentle. But currently most of my skincare products are from western brands. For example, my moisturizers are from Estee Lauder and Lancome, and recently I bought one from Nivea. If you happen to wonder what I use on a daily basis, read my post here.

I think many of us, especially the younger generation, are getting quite knowledgeable about what does and doesn’t work, but there are still some people who buy whatever the sales assistants say is good. I do try to encourage friends around me to learn more about ingredients in skincare products. After all, they go on our faces every single day…we might as well learn about them. I think a good place to start would be Paula Begoun’s website, as I am sure many of you know. Do some research and it will benefit you immensely!

Overall, Japanese makeup has the edge. Skincare-wise, I simply use what works for me. At the moment, there are more western products in my skincare routine, while several years ago, I used more Japanese products. So I wouldn’t say I have a clear preference. It depends on what suits my skin and what is more available at a given time and place.

So, what’s your take on this?

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(pictured: my Lunasol stash)


I am loving the look of Lunasol’s new collection! It is going toward a very soft look. All the colors look so gentle and wearable. It is about subtle and barely-there makeup.

My top pick is the lip palette, or Skin-Modeling Lips as it is properly called. This limited edition palette has four parts:

creamy-matte color (lip base)
natural color (lip color)
sheer gloss
jewel gloss

I’d like to have the one in EX04. I am a fan of blue-tone (but nearly totally sheer, of course) lipglosses. They make lips look really dewy and create a very natural and watery gleam.

This kit reminds me of another one by Ayura. It features a lip base, a lip liner, a highlight liner (for the two ridges of the upper lip, for extra perkiness), and a lip gloss. It is more of a lip-shaping kit that works in combination with your own lipsticks. I have it in 01 and I really like it.

The eye palettes also feature some soft colors. They are not as striking as what Lunasol had for last autumn (which has proven to be so successful that they top the favorite eye palette lists of Biteki and Frau magazines in Japan as voted by the readers), but they are great basics that look airy, breezy and beautiful. They also remind me of Jill Stuart’s latest eye palettes For example, Lunasol’s 04 looks very similar to Jill Stuart’s 02 Crystal Jade, and they both have the ubiquitous beige-tone palettes. I think, in this case, I’ll stick with Jill Stuart’s 04 Amethyst.

Both the four-color face powder palettes (Tone-Up Powder) look similar to Dior Detective from last autumn. It would be interesting to see how different Lunasol’s take on this will be.

The lip and nail colors will be great for the nude-color look.

As you can see, most of these products do remind me of some others. (Of course it is not unusual. New products are usually existing ones with a twist anyway.) But the texture and the pigmentation will vary (and the packaging, of course!) and I look forward to trying them out.

Apart from those above, you can also see Lunasol’s new foundation items here.

The color makeup items are out on January 19th, and the foundation items are out on February 23rd.

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(pictured: my Anna Sui stash)


Anna Sui is one of my absolute favorites (see this post), and I do like the fact that they have brought the main packaging color scheme back to black.

The first thing about the new collection is the array of new lipglosses. There are 19 of them, in different color palettes (pink, orange, red, and beige) and varying pigmentations. There are also six new lipsticks (in two different finishes, and in pink and beige) and six nail colors.

Also included in the collection is a square black brush holder.

It is a basic collection and it does lack a bit of a wow factor compared with Jill Stuart from yesterday and Lunasol and Ayura which I will touch upon in the next few days. Also it lacks items for eyes or cheeks. Overall it is slightly disappointing.

The collection is out on January 11.

Wednesday: Lunasol’s new collection

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(my Jill Stuart items)
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Happy New Year, everyone!

Jill Stuart has updated its website to feature the upcoming spring 2007 makeup collection. It is a very pink collection with a lilac and aqua-blue edge.

I saw magazine photos of the collection items on MakeupAlley a while ago, and the first things that caught my eye were the eyeshadow palettes. All four palettes look great. I read from Bea’s Up magazine (January 2007) that they are quite pigmented and glittery. Not for everyone, I guess, but I’d certainly like to try them.

I am particularly interested in 04, which is a lilac-toned palette. The case looks extremely cute and I like the longer double-ended applicator, which should be easier to work with than those fiddly ultra-short ones.

The rest of the collection seems great as well. There has been some buzz about the two new shades of Jelly Eye Color. I have never tried Jelly Eye Color, but it seems to be one of Jill Stuart’s best-sellers.

Judging by what I have seen so far, I think this collection is among the best in spring 2007.

The collection will be released in Japan on January 19th.

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(pictured: my Lavshuca items)


Hope everyone had a great Christmas.

There is an event report on Kanebo’s website about the Lavshuca Spring 2007 collection launch party. It seems to be such a glamorous occasion! I wish I could be there.

But that’s fine, as long as I can get hold of some of these lovely items. The collection includes eyeshadow palettes, single-color eyeshadows, lipsticks, and lipglosses, among other things. You can see the whole Lavshuca collection and all the new items here.

There are three things I think I will be getting:

1 lipstick (Very Anna Sui.)

2 lipgloss pen (One of the photos on the event report features the tip of the applicator, which has a cute heart shape where the lip gloss comes out. This little touch definitely seals the deal for me!)

3 eyeshadow palette (I’ll probably get the one in PK-1.)

The collection will be out on February 1 next year.

I went to Central London for the start of Winter Sale yesterday. I actually saw YSL’s and Givenchy’s new Spring 2007 collections in Selfridges. I will talk about them tomorrow.

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Each year, the November issue of Frau magazine in Japan releases the annual makeup and skincare ranking. Beauty experts and makeup artists give points to all the new launches this year and the top-finishing products make the list.

I am listing the products sold internationally.

SKINCARE

Anti-aging:
SK-II: Signs Dual Treatment Mask
Guerlain: Orchidee Imperiale
Chanel: Sublimage
HR: Prodigy Mask
Estee Lauder: Advanced Night Repair Concentrate
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch

Toner:
Chanel: Hydramax+ Nanolotion
Natura Bisee: Diamond Mist
Dior: Deep Hydration Refreshing Spray

Moisturizer:
SK-II: Skin Rebooster
YSL: Fresh Hydrating Water Gel
YSL: Super Hydrating Detoxifying Essence

Cleanser:
Clarins: Pure Melt Cleansing Gel
RMK: Cleansing Milk
Clarins: Water Comfort One-Step Cleanser
HR: Prodigy Makeup Remover
Restgenol: Active Collagenol Lifting Force Cleansing

New Skincare Lines:
Givenchy: Power Youth

Pore Care:
HR: Pore Genius
Clinique: Turnaround 15-minute Facial
Biotherm: Line Peel Pore Targeter
Chanel: Purete Ideale Serum

MAKEUP

Mascara/Eyebrow:
Max Factor: Lash Artist
HR:Lash Queen Waterproof
Chanel: Inimitable
Givenchy: Eyebrow Prisme
Maybelline: Lash Stylist Waterproof
HR: Surrealist

Eye Color:
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970
RMK: Ingenious Natural Eyes 02
Chanel: Quadra Eye Shadow 51
YSL: Ombre Solo Double-Effect Eye 4
Sonia Rykiel: Cream Eyeliner 01

Lip Color:
Chanel: Rouge Allure 4, 14, 24, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 132
Sonia Rykiel: Lipstick AC 03
RMK: Irresistible Lips C 08
Guerlain: KissKiss Laque 740
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal Lipstick 304

BASE MAKEUP

Foundation:
Laura Mercier: Silk Cream Foundation
Laura Mercier: Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 Nude
Paul & Joe: Creamy Compact Foundation
SK-II: Airtouch Foundation

Others:
Givenchy: Prisme Libre #2
De la Mer: The Powder
Giorgio Armani: UV Master Primer SPF 40/ PA+++
Laura Mercier: Secret Brightener #2

PERFUME/ HAIR/ BODY
Chanel: Allure Sensuelle
YSL: Profil Minceur
Clarins: Body Shaping Supplement

(Frau magazine, November 2006)

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For me, I bought these:

*Visee Dual Shine Rouge Palette*


I always like lip palettes. Visee’s Gothic design looks cute and glamorous. The grey lipgloss looks very dark on the photo, but it is actually quite a transparent grey hue with sparse glitters. It is mainly for a very toned-down version of dark gothic lips.

*Paul & Joe Hummingbird Collection*



Cosmetics stuff don’t get prettier than this. I like the fact that the lipstick does not have any shimmer. It is just a nice creamy muted pink. The eyeshadow, however, has tones of iridescence. When used light-handedly, it can be a good blusher.

*Dior Pretty Charm*


Tacky as some might think, I love this one-off design. I have not used the lip colors yet, and I doubt I will soon. I am just enjoying the sight of it for the time being. I like the fact that it is rather heavy so there is a sense of existence, as I always call it.

*YSL Gold Celebration Palette “Star Glow”*



Except for the fact that I need to be careful not to leave fingerprints all over the case, I am really glad that I bought this. The two pale lipglosses look like they have tons of glitters. I would like to try them soon. YSL should definitely keep releasing a palette for each Christmas. But I feel that, after four years, they might want to do something different…

*Marc Jacobs votive candle set*


I finally got it after missing it last year. Since last year, I have developed an interest in fragranced candles. The Stella McCartney candle is my favorite. Smaller than the usual glass candles, each one of the three features a different Marc Jacobs scent.

I realize that there are loads of lip colors from what I bought. Ummm…maybe I will buy more things for eyes in the coming spring, to balance out…

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(Continued from Sunday and Monday)

Finally, here are the top 3!

3rd: Paul & Joe

(pictured: hummingbird collection)

Pressed powder set with brush, body glitter powder, lip glosses…the list of Paul & Joe’s Christmas collection goes on. But the most fantastic items have to be the hummingbird lipsticks, eyeshadows, and pouch. The exquisite print is colorful, vibrant, and elegant. It is like a uplifting piece of artwork. Absolutely gorgeous. (I was always on the fence with the paper-wrapped seasonal collections and have never bought any item. They were always nearly there but not quite. The hummingbird collection is so much more striking than all the previous ones.)

It is interesting that the hummingbird lipsticks and eyeshadows are only sold in New York, Paris, and London — not in Tokyo. (Finally there is something NOT available in Japan…)

I bought the eyeshadow in 200 Cherubin Rose, which can double as a blusher if you don’t mind the pearly iredescence. I loved the collection so much that I went back to get the lipstick in 200 Ange Rose, a very wearble muted pink. The pouch, of the same print, is just so pretty as well. But I am happy with what I have got.

2nd: YSL


I finally bought the Gold Celebration palette (pictured above), after missing out on all the previous three. Called “Star Glow”, it is their fourth one and is probably the prettiest in my opinion. The only drawback is that fingerprints are easily left everywhere on the bright gold packaging.

But YSL wouldn’t make it to the second place without the rest of the colleciton. The colors of the eyeshadows (which have a great creamy texture), blushers, and the lipsticks all compliment one another. I think the bracelet is an improvement from last year’s slightly brassy design (which would probably work better as a bag charm). But the design of the front panel is a bit too complicated for me, and the velvety strap will quickly gather a lot of dust. Nonetheless it is a bold and catchy design that I generally like.

1st: Dior


Overall, Dior has done so well this year. The revamp of the makeup line is immensely successful. The seasonal limited editions link makeup and fashion together effortlessly, and what a way to end Dior’s 2006 with a stunning Christmas collection. Both eyeshadow palettes feature soft pastely colors which are easy to use along with what you already have. The texture of the powder is silky smooth as always. The collection also features lipsticks, lipglosses, nail colors, a highlighter, and a limited eidtion fragrance Midnight Charm. A true all-rounder, and that’s why it tops my list.

I really like the Dior Pretty Charms. They have done the ring and the bracelet. As I was guessing, sooner or later they would bring out a bag charm, and they did. A heart-shape lip-color palette surrounded by beads of four different shapes. It can be a very cute stocking filler.

So there you go, this year’s top ten. (I will keep compiling my top 10 of each coming season.)

Later on, I will talk more about the Christmas items I bought this year.

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(continued from yesterday)

6th: Jill Stuart
The collection includes a set of pressed powder, two eye glosses, and a nail polish. The collection also includes two lipstick charms. Everything is ultra cute and glossy. The pink and golden eye glosses look extremely cute, but the color might a bit too sheer for some people. I nearly decided to buy the lipstick charm, but I settled for another one (you can look for it on the photo above), which I will review tomorrow.

5th: AYURA
Another makeup and evening bag set. The bag looks exquisite. There are one-off creations like the bubble bath, the hair gloss, and the face highlighter. The set also includes a choice of lipstick. Again, AYURA creates interesting one-off products to entice us. (I want the bubble bath and the hair gloss!!)

4th: Visee
I have never bought anything from Visee before, but this chic and edgy Gothic-style lip palette won me over (pictured upper left). The palette features a lip base, a lip liner, four lip colors and two lip glosses. The colors are basic and wearable, with the catchy exterior being the main selling point. The Gothic design, not the usual Visee packaging, is also a one-off. The real thing looks as good as it does on the website and on the magazine.

Tomorrow I will reveal the top 3.

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