makeup – base makeup

(SUQQU’s fall 2007 foundation lineup)
(photo from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)


Like the regular seasonal color makeup launches, many Japanese brands release new foundation products in spring and fall. Some are new additions and some replace part of the collection.

SUQQU has been changing the packaging from creamy white to black and a very dark violet, and the new foundation products continue the transformation.

Looking at the whole SUQQU foundation lineup, I notice that a couple of the products have been discontinued (the Cream Foundation, which boasts a natural medium-to-full coverage, and Liquid Foundation Lucent, with sheer coverage).

But overall the foundation line (what SUQQU is mainly known for) has expanded. The new additions include:

One cream foundation
One powder foundation
One primer for the cream foundation
One primer for the powder foundation
One loose powder (SUQQU’s first loose powder)

These new items include red, yellow, and blue pigments to add vibrancy and transparency to the complexion.

I am interested in the loose powder. I usually use a powder foundation, wait for a few minutes, AND set it with loose powder for maximal lasting power. I love the very groomed and polished look. A good loose powder can really make my skin smooth and cover up the pores. (Read about my foundation routine if you are interested.) I look forward to testing all these new products later!

Outside Japan, SUQQU is available in Selfridges London (Yeah!) as well as Isetan and Central Chidlom (from September 15) in Bangkok.

Related Posts:

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(See some stunning ads of this exquisite Japanese brand)

SUQQU Make and Skincare Review
(after trying out a lot of goodies)

SUQQU Clear Veil Powder: An Unprecedented Masterpiece
(I am *still* waiting for its debut in London in October…)


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(The fest continues…)

(continued from yesterday)

Today, I bring you the Raycious cases from 2004 through to today.

The Raycious 2004 case has dynamic zig-zag patterns:

(Raycious 2004, 5th)

The Raycious 2005 case is more slender and wider, with bubble details. I really like this one.

(Raycious 2005, 6th)

Raycious brought out an interesting case in 2006. The color is the lightest of all the Raycious cases so far. It is also the thickest because it has to accommodate three pieces of mirrors.

(Raycious 2006, 7th)

Let’s open it up and have a look:

(It is like a mini dresser…)

A three-way mirror powder case is obviously not a necessity, but it is fun to use. Also, this design goes with the 7th-generation Raycious foundation for 2006, named Perfect Angle Powder. It claims to enhance the definition of facial contour. I guess you have all the mirrors to appreciate the new you!

We are back to one piece of mirror for the current Raycious 2007, Glamorous Skin Powder. The mirror is fitted almost right along the rims of the lid and is larger than most other mirrors in the previous cases.

(Raycious 2007, 8th)

In between the releases of the annual cases, Raycious sometimes brings out limited-edition ones. I don’t usually collect them, but I decided to go for this one earlier this year:

(Raycious 2007 limited-edition case)
Also, Haru over on Rouge Deluxe featues the latest limited-edition case. It is quite a bold design, using my favorite color.

These are all the cases I have from the powder foundations throughout the years so far. (When a new case is released, the previous one will go off the shelves. So I think it will be quite difficult to track down the older editions. In a way, all these cases are limited editions…)

Apart from releasing a new powder foundation each spring, Raycious also brings out new liquid foundations in fall. It also carries various primers, concealers, loose powders and pressed powders. I have several of Raycious pressed powders and a loose powder, and I will feature them in the near future!

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(Raycious Case Assembly)

I have talked about why I love Raycious foundations in an earlier post, so I won’t be going there today. (But mainly, it features fine blue-based particles that even out sallowness and redness to make skin bright and alive.)

Today it is all about all the cases since Raycious was launched in 2000. Each year, the foundation formulation changes slightly, and so does the case design.

I have been collecting these cases throughout the years. (I don’t have all the different foundations. The refills fit all the cases apart from the very first edition.)

Here we go!

The 1st-generation Raycious was launched in 2000. It is probably still the best-selling edition to date. This simple case is also my favorite. I also love this shade of blue. (You can see the difference above in the photo.) All the lines are slightly curved. Very subtly elegant. (This is the only Raycious case for a round refill, which, by the way, fits Anna Sui foundation cases as well.)

(Raycious 2000)
Riding on the success of the original Raycious, the 2nd-generation was launched in 2001.
(Raycious 2001)

It has a very reflective sheet in the lid. It is very shiny and colorful when I play it around the light:


The back of the lid can be opened:


I remember this sheet was given to purchasing customers in a very limited period of time:


This pattern was downloaded from the Sofina website in 2001:


You can put anything in the lid. For example, now I am doing some shameless self-promotion:


Onto 2002…the case has a minimal look:

(Raycious 2002)

Cell phone charms can be attached to the back:



The Raycious 2003 case is gadget-free and features soothing patterns:

(Raycious 2003)
It is quite a cutie!

Tomorrow I’ll come back with the ones from 2004 to 2007. You will have a closer look at the one with a three-way mirror. See you then!!

(See the cases from 2004 to 2007!)

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(Clockwise from upper left:
Erth Minerals Foundation in 2.3

Eyeshadows in Fern, Night, and Snow

Bronzer in Glow,

Eyeshadows in Rose and Carbon )

More and more mineral makeup lines have been trying to grab a share of the market, apart from major players like Bare Escentuals. Erth Minerals (not “Earth”, to be clear…) is one of them.

Their website describes their foundations as matte and offering excellent coverage, which attracted my attention. After trying them out, I actually wouldn’t describe them as either. They are semi-matte and provide medium (on the sheer side) coverage. There is no obvious shimmer and the finish is all very natural.

For me personally, one drawback is the staying powder. On my oily skin, the foundation started to melt in about two hours (in the less-than-warm British summer). I would not recommend this for people with oily skin or with oily T-zone.

On the other hand, Moth Veil is a good finishing powder for me. Soft and silky, it mattifies my skin and conceals pores nicely (after my usual foundation). Only one shade is available, but I think it is translucent enough to suit most skin-tones.

Their eyeshadows work nicely on me too (I don’t have particularly oily eyelids). All the shades I’ve got are sheer and with multi-color sparkles. My favorites are Snow (pearly white), Rose (very pale pink), and Carbon (dark charcoal, can be doubled as an eyeliner). The sparkles make Snow and Carbon particularly beautiful, while Carbon is great for the smoky-eye look.

I need to point out that the eyeshadow in Night, which appears to be a pastel blue in the container (seen in the photo), looks almost completely grey when applied. Even though the website describes the shade as “deep blue”, it is just too much of an ashy grey to be called blue. This can make on-line ordering confusing.

Since it is also the case with von Natur Lip Shimmer in Sweet Violet (a rosy purple in the container, a brownish brick-red when applied), I wonder whether the blue pigment used in mineral makeup in general is simply not delivering. (I have never experienced this kind of color inconsistency with brands not marketed as mineral makeup.) If you have any similar experience, I would very much like to know about it.

On the whole, mineral makeup, with its simple composition, does not irritate my sensitive skin, but it takes much longer to apply. No surprise, it is the case with Erth Minerals. If you want your foundation to give you a good coverage and your colors to be vibrant, you might need to look elsewhere. But if you prefer your makeup to be sheer and natural (and with shimmer for the eyes), then Erth Minerals will be worth considering.

Related posts:
Von Natur Mineral Powder Foundation
Von Natur Mineral Color Makeup

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Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy will be one of the latest drugstore lines in Japan. (The logo is instantly recognizable as the sister brand of Integrate.)

Launched in Japan on August 21st, Integrate Gracy is targeted mainly at consumers in their 50’s, with understated packaging and timeless, elegant, and wearable colors. Also, all the products are fragrance-free, which can be a huge plus for people across all ages.

Integrate Gracy is not the first drugstore brand in Japan to specifically appeal to a more mature clientèle. Kanebo’s Evita (skincare and foundation) and Media (foundation and color makeup) are two examples. Now it’s Shiseido’s turn to add a new player.

The packaging is predominantly black and the overall look reminds me of Media and another of Shiseido’s drugstore lines, Selfit. I actually slightly prefer Integrate Gracy’s packaging to Integrate’s, which I think is painfully plain. (The case of Integrate Gracy’s loose powder looks simple and elegant.)

The line-up is vast and is actually larger than Integrate (launched in August 2006, targeting consumers in their 20’s and 30’s). It features a full range of foundation products, which Integrate does not have at the moment. It includes cream/liquid/powder foundation, primers, concealer, and loose/pressed powder. I think it is quite exciting.

The color makeup includes lipsticks, lip liners, blushers, eyeshadows, eyeliners, brow pencils, mascaras, and nail colors.

The target audience is very specific. But good prices and good quality are definitely for everyone!!

Source: Nikki Net

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(pictured: my Majolica Majorca foundation and blushers)

For me, there are two Japanese brands that combine ultra-princessy packaging and superb pocket-friendliness: (Kanebo’s) Lavshuca and (Shiseido’s) Majolica Majorca.

I haven’t really talked about Majolica Majorca very much because Lavshuca has really edged Majolica Majorca out for me in the last couple of seasons.


I do remember how excited I was when it was first launched in July 2003, which was way before some of my current favorites (like Lavshuca and Jill Stuart) took to the stage. At the time, packaging for Japanese drugstore lines was never about being maximally appealing…until Shiseido launched Majolica Majorca, which targeted consumers in their late teens and early twenties. (There were always lines with cute packaging, but they were never packaged to the point of being invincibly dreamy.)


Gold is the predominant color for most of the casings, with filigree patterns, emblems, words written in fancy styles, and other decorative details. It has a royal and antiquey feel, and it was all very cute and princessy.

Their liquid eyeliners and mascaras have always been very popular. As for me, I have got two of their blushers and a powder foundation.


Both blushers are medium to sheer. PK333 is a cool pink (similar to Lavshuca Cheek Color PK-1) and OR211 is a light orange. I prefer PK333 because OR211 is a bit too warm for me.

The two-way powder foundation (Skin Remake Compact) is quite different from the ZA two-way foundation (also made by Shiseido) that I have been using for years. Relatively, Majolica Majorca’s powder foundation has a more moist feel, has a slightly better coverage, but controls shine much less effectively. (Because it controls shine rather poorly, I only wear it when the weather is very cold.) But if your skin-type is combination or slightly dry, this might be a good choice for you as it does give a smooth and almost satiny finish.

Recently, Majolica Majorca’s packaging has not been appealing to me. I think it is because brands like Lavshuca and Jill Stuart are really pushing it in this area. Also, for me, the recent products are just a little less than exciting.

But I still want Majolica Majorca to wow me again!

I’d be interested to know your view of Majolica Majorca and your favorite Majolica Majorca products.

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(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder)
(photo from
www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

I have mentioned innovation in Japanese cosmetics last week in another post. Today I am talking about another product exemplifying this.

SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder, launch in fall 2006, has created a sensation. “Magical”, “unbelievable”, “shocking”, and “an unprecedented masterpiece” are some of the expressions that Japanese beauty experts used to describe this finishing pressed powder (Frau magazine, November 2006).

What is unprecedented about this pressed powder is that each powder particle is see-through. Yes, we’ve all used loose powder that is translucent and doe not add color, but this one is almost totally “transparent”.

You can see that there seems to be the word “SUQQU” on the powder. But the word is in fact indented at the bottom of the tin case holding the pressed powder. It is for the sole purpose of showcasing this ingenious innovation.

It is able to mattify and smooth the skin without making it chalky. The powder particles are transparent so the face simply won’t look chalky.

Primers are a huge business in Japanese cosmetics, and there have been many innovative products. I would imagine SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder is a silicone-based mattifying liquid primer — in pressed powder form and used as a finishing powder. If this is the case, I’d call it a post-primer. (I know it is sort of an oxymoron, but I am sure you get the idea.) Since it is applied after the foundation (unlike a primer of course), it has the potential of giving (and keeping) a really even, smooth, and matte appearance.

I haven’t actually tried it, but the people at the SUQQU counter in Selfridges in London told me a couple of months ago that it might appear in the UK in the coming fall. I am very excited about this! If I do get to try it, I will follow this up with another report.

Updated on April 24th 2009:

Please check out the review of Clear Veil Powder here.

Related posts:
—SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
—Review: SUQQU Makeup and Skincare
—One of a Kind: SUQQU Spring 2007 Eyeshadow in Daichi (Mother Earth)

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The sun is shining and you are lying on the beach, busy being lazy.

But there’s a masquerade by the sea after sunset. You have your dazzling mask and all your powder and potion to bring out your radiance. All that’s left is to find that perfect floaty summer frock, maybe in blue as well……?

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Makeup

Sofina Raycious: Glamorous Skin Powder
Lavshuca: Eye Color Select BU-1
Lavshuca: Eye Color BG-1
Dior: DiorKiss 198 Plum Tart
Dior: DiorKiss 208 Mint Lemonade
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Gerlain: Guerlain by Emilio Pucci Lip Gloss 03 Sparkling Sea
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Maybelline: Volume Express Waterproof

Fragrance

Anna Sui: Sui Dreams

Skincare

Lancome: Tonique Douceur
KissMe: Lip Care Menthol

Previous Splash of Color: New-Leaf Green
Even more Splashes of Colors to come!

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As requested by a reader, I am going to talk about my daily foundation routine.

Every foundation product I use is in powder form (loose or pressed). I have oily skin, and anything liquidy or creamy (liquid foundation, creamy concealer,…) doesn’t stay on very well.

I try to make everything simple. I almost never use a primer. I only use a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen (like Estee Lauder DayWear Plus for Oily Skin SPF 15). Then:



1. I put on my ZA 2-way foundation (pictured mid-left).

Well, 70% of the time, that’s actually it. But if I want a more polished look:

2. I put on some transparent loose powder. My favorite two at the moment are from Raycious (mid-right) and Lavshuca (top). They are both very good in disguising pores. They both have minimal shimmer but it is barely visible on the face. Or I use Raycious pressed powder (bottom-left), which is completely matte.

Occasionally, if I need to conceal a pimple (here comes the big trick):

3. I use Raycious powder foundation (bottom-right) as a concealer with the corner of a rectangular sponge and gently press the powder onto a breakout. The light-defusing particles in Raycious powder foundations (especially the earliest generations) are fantastic for precision concealing. Not only is the redness covered, the shadow around the bump is instantly less visible (so the pimple looks much flattened). I want the powder to stay absolutely put on my breakout so it is applied last.

(This trick works wonder for my friends as well when I help them with makeup.)

My suggestion is to always take time doing the foundation. The foundation from a rushed application never stays on well. Taking time and doing everything slowly, gently, and carefully makes a huge difference, even with exactly the same products. (My routine is straightforward enough so it takes 10 minutes from 1 to 3, but I always make sure I don’t rush things through.)

My next post will be about some favorite cosmetics products as voted by Japanese consumers.

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I came across an interesting feature on the January issue of Biteki magazine. It lists best-sellers in each major department store throughout Japan and compares what customers like in different parts of the country. Today I am listing some of them as a whole (non-areal-specific) for you to have a look and I am focusing on products from brands available internationally.

*Skincare/Bodycare*

Shiseido Cle de Peau: Lotion Tendre
Clinique: Turnaround Concentrate
Origins: Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Protection Correction Serum
RMK: Skin Smoother
RMK: Face Protector SPF 31
Biotherm: Celluli Peel
Clarins: Total Body Lift
SKII: Skin Treatment Essence

*Base Makeup*

RMK: Makeup Base
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base Mat
RMK: Liquid Foundation
YSL: Touche Eclat
Clinique: All About Eyes Concealer
Clinique: Perfectly Real Makeup

*Color Makeup*

Bobbi Brown: Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner
Helena Rubinstein: Lash Queen Water-Proof

Lancome: L’Extreme Water-Proof

Lancome: Juicy Tube 17
Chanel: Rouge Allure 04, 13, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 434
RMK: Ingenious Cheeks 29
RMK: Water Color Eyes 04
Anna Sui: Nail Color 333
Paul & Joe: Nail Color 26

(from Biteki January 2007)

One thing I have noticed is that there is one lipstick that tops virtually all the department store top-selling lists: Dior Addict Ultra Shine 2 in 340 Shiniest Peach. Ultra Shine 2 is only available in Asia at the moment, but the very exclusive Harvey Nichols in London actually has it!

Coming up in my next post, I will be sharing my daily foundation routine.

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