makeup – base makeup

Coffret D’Or Fall/Winter 2009 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Monday, July 6, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image/info from www.nikkei.com)

Ever since I tried out Coffret D’Or‘s Beauty Lasting Pact UV, I have always been looking forward to Coffret D’Or’s new base makeup items. (Beauty Lasting Pact UV is among the best powder foundations for oily skin that I have ever tried.)

On September 1st, Coffret D’Or will release its fall/winter base makeup collection. The new items feature Moisture Color Pearl, which provides extra moisture as well as a translucent finish for the skin.

The new items include:

– Beauty Essence Liquid (liquid foundation, 7 shades)
– Beauty Essence Color Veil (light control primer, 2 shades)
– Tone Up Highlighter (pen highlighter, 1 shade)
– Pure Crystalish Compact (light control powder, 2 shades)
– Retouch Veil (makeup retouch mist)
– Fall/Winter 2009 powder foundation case

(There doesn’t seem to be a new powder foundation for fall/winter 2009.)

Updated on July 7th 2009:

Image of the two cases of Pure Crystalish Compact:

(image from www.cosme.net)

Coffret D’Or Fall 2009 Point Makeup Collection

Coffret D’Or Summer 2009 Collection

Coffret D’Or Shine Accent Eyes in Pink Variation (Spring 2009)

{ 0 comments }

Makeup Review: Lancôme Fall 2009 Collection (Part 2)

by PJ on Wednesday, July 1, 2009

in -Lancôme, 2009 Fall, beauty tools/accessories, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss

Last week, I reviewed some of the eye makeup items in Lancôme’s fall 2009 collection. Today, I will share my thoughts on some items from the rest of the collection.

(Color Fever Matte in (from left to right)
151, 152, and 153)

A new range of Color Fever lipsticks, Color Fever Matte, is introduced to Lancôme’s lipstick lineup. Aaron De Mey wanted to create lip colors that would be richly pigmented as well as matte in order to maximize the color impact, and Color Fever Matte is the result.

To formulate Color Fever Matte, Lancôme tried to combine a matte finish and a smooth and nourishing texture, two things that don’t always co-exist. I think the end result is quite successful. While delivering a velvety matte finish, they glide on easily and don’t make lips feel or look dry.

Among the three shades, 151 Red Avant-Garde (left) is the most vivid and the closest to cardinal red. 152 Red Paris Paris (middle) is slightly cooler and more rose-toned, and it goes on slightly darker than 151. 153 Red Libertine (right) is the most muted and is perhaps the most wearable for those who don’t usually wear rich reds for the lips.

You can wear these colors with a lip liner for a defined and classic look, but my favorite way to apply them is to keep them just inside the lip line and use the fingertip to blend the color gently towards the lip line to create a softer edge and a more sensual look.

The two new Color Fever Gloss shades in this collection are 026 Pure Gold and 125 Aaron’s Red. Aaron’s red is a vibrant cool-toned shimmer-less red. (It goes on cooler than it appears in the tube.) While imparting a glossy transparency, the color (when worn alone) is very intense and the overall look resembles a lipstick-plus-gloss combination. I think the shade can be compared to that of strawberry jelly, which is color-rich but still transparent. Plus the shade does look mouth-watering…

Pure Gold has a completely different finish. It is a semi-opaque gold with fine multi-colored shimmer, and the richness of the color does resemble liquid gold. One coat of it gives the lips a yellow-based neutral tone. (It is a nice way to create a natural neutral tone for the lips without making them overly pale or ashy.) Two or more coats will start to create a rich gold-foil shine.

Both shades complement Color Fever Matte well. Aaron’s Red adds lip-plumping glossiness to the matte finish, while Pure Gold on the center of the lips makes the lips look stunningly luxurious. (If you don’t want any glossiness on the lips but still want a touch of gold, Aaron suggests using one of the golds in the eye palettes for a glistening gold-dust finish.)

Rose Liberté is created to add a veil of gold to the complexion. Some might be disappointed to know that the vibrant shimmer is an overspray, but I think the softly luminous gold-toned beige powder underneath is much more user-friendly. (I think the overspray, which has the same multi-colored shimmer as that in the Pure Gold Color Fever Gloss, is more suited as an eyeshadow.)

Also in this collection is the Powder Brush, which is designed to help apply not only Rose Liberté but also other loose and pressed powder products. The large fluffy brush feels soft on the face and is angled for more flexibility in the application.

Here are my personal picks from the collection:

– Palette Liberté in Bleu Royauté (signature item of the collection)
– Palette Liberté in Or Liberté (chic and wearable)
– Color Fever Matte in Red Paris Paris (vivid but elegant)
– Color Fever Gloss in Pure Gold (versatile and ultra-glamorous)

One of the demanding tasks of an artistic director of an international beauty brand is to express his/her unique vision as an artist and to create products with a mass-market appeal on a global scale. I think Aaron De Mey has done a great job with Lancôme’s fall 2009 collection. The creative vision is crystal-clear, and the products, thorough which we are able to see his original ideas, not only aim to set trends but also attempt to create classics. I wonder what is going to wow us in spring 2010…

Other fall 2009 makeup collections:

YSL

Clé de Peau

SUQQU

{ 2 comments }

Japanese Cosmetics Focus: Covermark

by PJ on Tuesday, June 30, 2009

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Covermark, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(images and info from www.covermark.co.jp)

Covermark was originally an American brand. It was founded by Lydia O’Leary in New York in 1928 as she developed a product to cover the birthmark on her face. (The product was named Covermark.)

In 1960, Japan O’Leary Corporation was established to distribute Covermark in Japan. The company was then separated from O’Leary Coporation in 1992 and became independent. It started to formulate and produce new base makeup products.

Covermark Japan also carries basic point makeup and skincare items. The latest skincare range is the Cell Advanced range. However, Covermark has always been famous in Asia as a base makeup brand.

(The original US Covermark site can be found here, and you can read more about the history of the brand here.)

(Covermark Basic Formula,
in 23 shade, SPF 33, PA+++)

The Covermark Basic Formula (above) is based on two of Covermark’s original products, Covermark S and Excellent Covermark E. It is a paste-type foundation which is able to create a full coverage.

Some of Covermark’s other popular products include Moisture Veil (the brand’s only powder foundation at the moment), Soft ES Pact (also with a paste consistency), Essence Foundation (cream foundation), and Essence Foundation Liquid (liquid foundation, seen at the top of the post).

Covermark is currently available in Japan, China, Hong Kong, Singapore, Taiwan, and Thailand. (Check out the English site here.)

I have not had a chance to try products from Covermark yet. If you have, do let us know what you think. Thank you very much!

Japanese Base Makeup Week

SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

Remembering Raycious

Esprique Precious Fall 2009 Point Makeup & Fall/Winter 2009 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, June 30, 2009

in -Esprique (Precious), -Kosé, 2009 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kosé’s Esprique Precious will release its fall/winter base makeup collection in Japan on August 21st. The lineup includes:

– Dramatical Veil Pact Moisture (7 shades, SPF 20, PA++)
– Dramatical Veil Liquid (7 shades, SPF17, PA++)
– Moisturizing Base (1 shade, SPF 10, PA+)
– Lines Reset (concealer, 1 shade)
– Purely Veil Powder (loose powder, 1 shade, limited edition)

Esprique Precious’ fall 2009 point makeup items will be released on the same day. They include:

– Dress on Glossy Rouge (10 shades)
– True Impact Eyes (2 new variations, limited editions)

Foundation Face-Off – Dior vs. Esprique Precious

Esprique Precious Spring/Summer 2009 Base Makeup Collection

Esprique Precious Spring 2009 Makeup Collection

{ 0 comments }

Foundation Face-Off (4): Dior vs. Esprique Precious

by PJ on Tuesday, June 9, 2009

in -Dior, -Esprique (Precious), -Kosé, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

It has been over a year since my last Foundation Face-Off, and I hope you will enjoy this long overdue addition. Today I am taking you through two spring/summer 2009 releases: Dior’s Snow Whitening UV Compact (White Reveal UV Shield Makeup) and Beauté de Kosé Esprique Precious’ Dramatical Stay Pact UV EX. The two trial samples are from the April and May 2009 issues of Biteki.

(I have oily skin that is prone to slight redness. I prefer powder foundations that control shine well, offer at least medium coverage and have decent pore coverage. I don’t usually wear a primer or a concealer. I have a light-to-medium complexion and ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22 is one of my ideal shades. (I haven’t used MAC foundations for a very long time so I don’t know which shade is currently the closest to my complexion.))

Basics

– Dior Snow Whitening UV Compact (White Reveal UV Shield Makeup): SPF 30, PA +++, 6 shades (shade tested: 020)
– Beauté de Kosé Esprique Precious Dramatical Stay Pact UV EX: SPF 25, PA ++, 7 shades (shade tested: OC-410)

Both shades are lighter than ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22.

Finish

The two differ quite a lot in finish. Dior has a luminous and glowy finish, while Esprique Precious has a soft matte finish which is only very subtly luminous. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Dior has a soft velvety texture, while EP has a slightly drier feel (which is far from chalky). Both go on evenly and smoothly.

Coverage

Both have a light-to-medium coverage, but Dior has marginally more coverage. With Dior, I feel that the coverage is more based on the luminous semi-transparent light-reflective powder than on opaque pigment. One thing I don’t like about this is that, as I have applied the powder evenly and then look straight at the mirror, the coverage looks sufficient on the forehead, chin and top of the cheeks (wherever the light hits straight on and creates the coverage) but the sides of my nose and the sides of my face (where the light bounces off sideways from where I can see) seem to get almost no coverage.

Even though this type of coverage creates more dimension for the face and should please some people (as the powder emulates a shading effect), I prefer EP’s soft-focus and even-looking coverage.

Pore Coverage

Dior’s luminous and glowy powder can exaggerate the look of pores. On the other hand, EP has a decent pore coverage.

Shine Control

Again, Dior’s glowy finish can make shine more pronounced overtime. EP has a fairly good shine control.

Staying Power

Dior does have a reasonably good staying power (with all the blotting), but I am more impressed with EP’s lasting ability. It can be a little hard to tell how the coverage and finish last since they are on the natural side, but, after a whole day, there is no patchiness and my skin tone still looks very even.

Overall, Dior reminds me of Primavista’s Powder Foundation Moist Touch and Esprique Precious reminds me of Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Pact UV. (Coffret D’Or has slightly better shine control). For me, between Dior and Esprique Precious, Esprique Precious is the obvious winner. If it had more coverage, it would definitely be a product I’d consider buying.

You can read my friend Betsy’s review of Esprique Precious Dramatical Stay Pact UV EX on Autumn Masquerade.

Japanese Base Makeup Week

RMK Powder Foundation EX

Foundation Face-Off (1) – Chanel vs. SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off (2) – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

{ 2 comments }

Kanebo Milano Collection 2010

by PJ on Tuesday, June 2, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Kanebo Milano Collection, 2009 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(images/info from www.nikkei.co.jp)

The 2010 edition of Kanebo’s Face Up Powder Milano Collection 2010 will be out in Japan on December 16th. This is a pre-order-only item, and the pre-order period will be between mid-June and September 17th.

The powder (24g, SPF 14 PA++) retails for 12600 JPY. Like the 2009 edition, it includes a powder puff with silk produced in Kyoto.

(motif on the powder case)

Since 1991, Kanebo has been releasing the Milano Collection each year (except 1994 and 1995). You can see all the different case designs below. You can also check out the page on the Kanebo website to see larger photos of the cases.

Updated on June 15th 2009:

The collection will also include a 30ml eau de parfum. It will be available from November 16 and the pre-order period ends on August 20th.

(image/info from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/milano-collection)

Raycious Foundation Case Galore

My Anna Sui Foundation Cases

Foundation Face-Off: Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

{ 6 comments }

Base Makeup Review: RMK Super Basic Liquid Concealer

by PJ on Tuesday, May 5, 2009

in -RMK, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(RMK Super Basic Concealer in 02)

A few weeks ago, I reviewed RMK‘s Powder Foundation EX, one of RMK’s three new base makeup items. Today I am sharing my thoughts on one of the two other products, Super Basic Concealer.

It is available in four shades and has SPF 28 and PA+++, and it uses a twist-click dispenser. The concealer has a creamy consistency, a good opaque coverage and a glowy matte finish. (It doesn’t have visible shimmery particles.)

So far, I have been having little issue with darkness in the eye area, so I can’t really say how well it works on heavy dark circles. (But it does even out the skin tone in the eye area quite well.) My main issue is the occasional breakout, and this product covers the redness effectively.

Also, I think the texture and consistency are just right. It is not so liquidy that it gets blended off where I want it to stay (it is always annoying when a concealer ends up around the breakout and not on the breakout), and the cream is just malleable enough to be blended nicely with enough play time to ensure a seamless finish.

I use this concealer underneath my powder foundation, which helps set the concealer. Once it sets, it is very long-lasting and doesn’t travel or disintegrate (even on my oily skin, where cream-based base makeup products don’t tend to stay on very well).

The shades tested for this review are 01 and 02. My skin tone is between light and light-to-medium (I use ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22 and I would go for the second OC shade in Japanese foundations), and 02 is a fairly good match for me. If you have a fair skin tone and tend to go for the lightest foundation shade, then 01 should be a good fit for you. (Both shades are quite neutral-toned and don’t look pinkish. Apart from being darker, 02 is slightly warmer than 01.)

Overall, Super Basic Concealer seems to be a very competent product, and, for me, it works well in concealing redness/breakouts. Also, the SPF/PA factors are a welcome feature as they provide extra protection for the breakout area, which can be particularly sensitive to sunlight.

“Japanese Base Makeup” series

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer

Prescriptives Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15

{ 4 comments }

Makeup Review: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

by PJ on Friday, April 24, 2009

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder in 101 Clear (refill))

In this post, which I wrote in 2007, I mentioned SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder. It was launched in fall 2006 and became an instant sensation.

It is a semi-transparent pressed powder. According to SUQQU, the main function of this product is that it sets the foundation without altering the foundation color or leaving any powdered finish. It is also claimed to be able to cover pores and deliver an oil absorption effect.

(It is available in 101 Clear (matte) and 102 Clear Pearl (very slightly shimmery). The case, refill, and brush (similar to the flat powder brush of RMK’s Powder Foundation EX) are all sold separately.)

When I touch the surface of the powder, it feels like a piece of frosted soft plastic. I can’t hardly pick up any powder with my fingers. It does seem considerably different from nearly all the other pressed-powder products I have come across.

The application can be slightly tricky, and, over the last couple of years, I have noticed that the SUQQU sales assistants’ application techniques have changed. I remember they used to advise that we sweep the brush gently across the powder (as we normally would with any pressed powder), but it appeared to me then that the brush was not really able to pick up the powder this way. Now the sales assistants seem to apply a lot more pressure with the brush to sweep up the powder, which I think is the only way to pick up the powder from the pan.

When the powder is applied on the skin (after I apply my powder foundation), the particles are invisible. Therefore, it is certainly true that it is able to set the foundation without leaving any trace of it (no alteration of foundation color or powdered finish). What I see is that the finish of my powder foundation becomes a little more matte and that the appearance of pores is more blurred, and this is obviously down to the semi-transparent silicone particles.

The pore-diffusing efficacy is decent, but I do feel that the oil-control ability is somewhat on the weak side.

In my post two years ago, I mentioned that I imagined Clear Veil Powder would be a pressed-powder equivalent of a silicone-based liquid/gel primer (think Smash Box’s Photo Finish) and that it would probably work as a “post-primer” (something with the same purposes as those of a primer but applied after the foundation). After I have tried it, I do still think of the product in the same way. But I do find that I can also use it as a primer and apply it before my powder foundation, so the product is more versatile than I expected.

Whether Clear Veil Powder serves all of our needs would vary from person to person. If you have finally found a foundation that offers the perfect match with your skin tone and think all the loose/pressed powder products that you come across interfere with the perfect match, then this setting powder is definitely worth looking into. If you use a setting powder to diffuse the look of pores, then this product may work well for you too. But if you rely on a setting powder to keep you shine-free, then this might not be the product you are looking for.

Overall, I commend the design of the product. In Japanese cosmetics, there are a lot fewer multi-purposed products, and, especially within Japanese base makeup, it seems to be mostly about one product serving one very specific purpose.

As I was reminded of all the Japanese office/kitchen/storage gadgets that faithfully and effectively serve their sole duties, I think Clear Veil Powder is another prime example of this sophisticated simplicity of consumer product design that Japanese brands (not just beauty brands) excel at. It also exemplifies the unique quality of Japanese makeup that will always keep me curious and fascinated.

SUQQU Contour Shadows
(another example of a unique and specialized product)

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection Review

My Personal Take on SUQQU

{ 10 comments }

Makeup Review: RMK Powder Foundation EX

by PJ on Monday, April 13, 2009

in -RMK, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

(RMK Powder Foundation EX in 103)

RMK is one of the Japanese beauty brands known for their base makeup. It doesn’t update its base makeup range as often as many other Japanese beauty lines, so it really attracts attention when it does. Today I am reviewing RMK’s latest powder foundation, Powder Foundation EX (SPF24, PA++, in 9 shades).

The whole idea of this foundation is to create the dewy finish of a cream foundation with a powder foundation. The foundation features a “powder” layer and a “pearl” layer. The powder layer is used as the usual powder foundation, while the pearl layer is used as a highlighter (with the brush that comes with the foundation).

This foundation gives a slightly-above-medium coverage, and the pore coverage and the lasting power are satisfactory. In terms of the dewy finish that this powder foundation sets out to achieve, it is a successful product. The powder is very fine and it doesn’t create a powdered look. The finish is indeed dewy and glowy.

According to the instruction sheet that comes with the foundation, the pearl layer should be avoided on the T-zone and the sides of the nose, which can get oily overtime. I think the pearl layer is definitely more suitable on the top of the cheekbones to both emphasize the dewy look and to highlight the cheekbones.

The downside of this foundation is that it has very little oil control efficacy. If you have oily skin, the dewy finish (just from the powder layer) will not hold overtime and will make your face appear even more oily as the day goes on. (I tried using Kiss Mat Chiffon Powder (which is the most matte loose powder I have) to set the foundation, but my face still started to look oily within two hours.)

The shade you see here is 103, which is a yellow-toned shade. It goes on a little darker than it looks in the pan, and it is about one shade darker than Majolica Majorca Skin Remake Compact in OC20 and two shades darker than my staple, ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22. (The other shade tested is 202, which is a pale pink-toned shade that is considerably paler than ZA 22.)

There are two other things worth mentioning. Firstly, the sponge that comes with the foundation doesn’t work particularly well. The fact that it is so soft and smooth actually works against itself, as it is not porous enough to grab and dispense/spread the powder efficiently. It still helps the foundation create a smooth finish on the face, but it takes a long time. (The sponge from my ZA Two-Way Foundation, which is just an ordinary powder foundation sponge similar to most others, actually works better with this foundation.)

Secondly, I like the grey velvet sleeves for the foundation case and the brush. At the first sight, they didn’t look as glamorous as the dark ones from Chanel, Dior, YSL and SUQQU. But overtime, they prove to be very practical as they never look as dusty as the dark sleeves can sometimes look. They are also somewhat chic-looking.

Overall, I think this product falls into the category of fall/winter foundations from Japanese brands and will suit people with normal or dry skin. Essentially, if your skin can take an emollient cream foundation and if you like the dewy finish from it, then this product can work well for you. (It should also provide a speedier application than applying a cream foundation). However, if you have combination or oily skin, this product is certainly not for you (even if you avoid the pearl layer). A more matte foundation with a good sebum control ability, such as Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Pact UV, will suit you a lot better.

I will review RMK’s new Super Basic Liquid Concealer next month.

Japanese Base Makeup Week

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel vs. SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off: Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Liquid Foundation

Primavista Powder Foundation Moist Touch

{ 21 comments }

Sonia Rykiel Summer 2009 Makeup Collection

by PJ on Friday, April 10, 2009

in -Sonia Rykiel, 2009 Summer, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(images/info from www.cosme.net)

As one of my readers has observed, blue seems to be the color for summer 2009. YSL, Magie Deco, and Chicca are bringing out blues for their summer 2009 collections, and so is Sonia Rykiel. (Even the packaging is in blue.)

The collection includes:

– Quatre Eyeshadow Collection (1 new variation, above)

– Ombre à Paupières Crème (3 new shades)

– Gloss Trio 2009 (3 variations)

– Poudre Colorée Pour Le Visage (2 variations)

– Nail Color L (3 new shades)

A 2009 version of L’Atout Eclat Sublime (Treatment Makeup Base S) will also be released (in Golden Caress, SPF 15 and PA+). It contains gold pearl to create a shimmery beige finish.

The collection will be released in Japan on May 15. All the items are limited editions.