makeup

Base Makeup Review: RMK Super Basic Liquid Concealer

by PJ on Tuesday, May 5, 2009

in -RMK, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(RMK Super Basic Concealer in 02)

A few weeks ago, I reviewed RMK‘s Powder Foundation EX, one of RMK’s three new base makeup items. Today I am sharing my thoughts on one of the two other products, Super Basic Concealer.

It is available in four shades and has SPF 28 and PA+++, and it uses a twist-click dispenser. The concealer has a creamy consistency, a good opaque coverage and a glowy matte finish. (It doesn’t have visible shimmery particles.)

So far, I have been having little issue with darkness in the eye area, so I can’t really say how well it works on heavy dark circles. (But it does even out the skin tone in the eye area quite well.) My main issue is the occasional breakout, and this product covers the redness effectively.

Also, I think the texture and consistency are just right. It is not so liquidy that it gets blended off where I want it to stay (it is always annoying when a concealer ends up around the breakout and not on the breakout), and the cream is just malleable enough to be blended nicely with enough play time to ensure a seamless finish.

I use this concealer underneath my powder foundation, which helps set the concealer. Once it sets, it is very long-lasting and doesn’t travel or disintegrate (even on my oily skin, where cream-based base makeup products don’t tend to stay on very well).

The shades tested for this review are 01 and 02. My skin tone is between light and light-to-medium (I use ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22 and I would go for the second OC shade in Japanese foundations), and 02 is a fairly good match for me. If you have a fair skin tone and tend to go for the lightest foundation shade, then 01 should be a good fit for you. (Both shades are quite neutral-toned and don’t look pinkish. Apart from being darker, 02 is slightly warmer than 01.)

Overall, Super Basic Concealer seems to be a very competent product, and, for me, it works well in concealing redness/breakouts. Also, the SPF/PA factors are a welcome feature as they provide extra protection for the breakout area, which can be particularly sensitive to sunlight.

“Japanese Base Makeup” series

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer

Prescriptives Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15

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Makeup Review: Illamasqua

by PJ on Friday, May 1, 2009

in makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, makeup - mascara

(image from www.illamasqua.com)

In a typical department store in the UK, most of the beauty (especially makeup) brands are from either the US or Continental Europe. This is why, when the British makeup line, Illamasqua, launched its counter in London’s Selfridges (which has probably the largest beauty department in the UK), it is hard not to get excited.

(image from www.illamasqua)

Illamasqua positions itself as a professional makeup brand that encourages expression and experimentation. As the brand’s slogan is “make-up for your alter ego”, many of the makeup looks on the brand’s website are dramatic, edgy and editorial. Price-wise, it is a medium-to-high end line, with lipsticks priced at £14 and eyeshadow singles priced at £15. Today, I am sharing my thoughts on some of Illamasqua’s products.

– Powder Eye Shadows in Feel and Lick

(Powder Eye Shadow in Feel)

(Powder Eye Shadow in Lick)

Currently, most of Illamasqua’s 107 Powder Eye Shadows that the brand was launched with are matte, and Feel and Lick are among the matte shades. Feel is a light-to-medium taupe while Lick is a bright warm reddish pink. Both are moderately-to-well pigmented, and the texture is relatively smooth, partly down to the talc-based formula.

Feel is a good shade for adding soft depth to the eyes for those with a light or light-to-medium complexion. It goes on a little cooler, and I think it would suit cooled-toned complexions a lot more. (It may be on the ashy side for warm-toned complexions.)

You have to be quite bold to wear Lick on a daily basis, but I find that, used light-handedly, it works well as a blusher. (I also like the fact that it happens to be matte, which is my preferred finish for a blusher.) It blends easily as a blusher and should suit most complexions, particularly warm-toned ones.

– Volume Mascara in Harness

Volume Mascara is currently Illamasqua’s sole mascara product. It is available in three shades, Harness (black), Nocturnal (brown) and Lewd (blue), and it is a non-waterproof mascara.

Harness is a nice black that doesn’t look greyish or ashy. The formula appears to be quite lightweight, as it doesn’t feel heavy on the eyes or weight down the lashes. It creates more volume than length, though the volume might not be as dramatic as some might hope for. A light-handed application with gentle layering is essential to stay clump-free. Once set, it has a satisfactory staying power.

Overall, Illamasqua seems to be a solid brand with a lot of potential, and it has created buzz among makeup lovers in the UK. It would be interesting to see how well it will do in the next few years and whether it will acquire a more international presence.

(Check here for the list of retail points in the UK and Ireland. Illamasqua’s on-line store delivers within the UK as well as internationally.)

Beauty City Guide – London

Barry M Dazzle Dusts for Spring 2009

Clinique Naturally Glossy Mascara

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Lunasol Layer Bloom Eyes in 03 Purple Gradation

by PJ on Tuesday, April 28, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2009 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Another season, another lilac palette joining my collection…

Lunasol‘s Layer Bloom Eyes* palettes are part of Lunasol’s spring 2009 Floral Purification collection. 03 Purple Gradation is inspired by wisteria (fuji) and includes (anti-clock-wise from top-left):

– sheer white with multi-colored sparkles
– medium lilac with a soft pearly finish (moderately pigmented)
– predominantly matte cool-toned dark grey with sparse shimmer (well-pigmented)
– light lilac with a mildly shimmery finish (moderately pigmented)

All the shades are very soft and easy to apply, and the finish lasts well.

According to the eye chart that comes with the palette, the sheer white is used as a base, the medium lilac is used as a shadowing shade, and the dark grey is for the upper lashline and the outer 1/3 of the lower lashline. The light lilac is applied on the inner 2/3 of the lower lashline.

I really like how the two lilacs work together. The medium lilac has an exceptionally soft texture, and blending is effortless. I can go as sheer or intense as I want with this shade. When applied on the lower lashline, the light lilac seems to look more intense (slightly darker) than it does in the pan. It has a delicate iridescence and brightens the eyes very effectively without creating a stark look.

What I also like about the two lilacs is that the beautiful color seems very long-lasting. After 12 hours of wear, it is not uncommon for some lilacs to take on a very mild bluey-grey hue as the color starts to fade (and I don’t usually take this to be an indication of inferior quality). But the two lilacs here are able to stay fresh almost throughout the day, which impresses me.

Compared with Lunasol’s Lavender Coral palette from spring 2008, I think Purple Gradation is a lot more elegant and understated. The colors are less sparkly and the overall finish is more pearly than shimmery. (Between the two main lilac shades, the one in Purple Gradation is slightly warmer than that in Lavender Coral. I like both equally.) On the whole, Purple Gradation is more similar to Scent Form Eyes in 02 but it is marginally more vibrant due to the mild iridescence. (Scent Form Eyes in 02 is certainly the most low-key of the three.)

Overall, this is a beautiful lilac palette which is very easy to wear, in terms of both the colors and the superb texture of the powder. If you are looking for something as vibrant as the Sheer Contrast Eyes and the Geminate Eyes series, then this palette might not be for you. But if you want a sophisticated eye palette that is not overly shimmery, then the Layer Bloom Eyes series is a must-see.

(It appears that, since the fall 2008 Red Purification collection, Lunasol’s eye palettes are returning to the elegant and understated finish that the brand started off with. It would be interesting to see whether the trend will shift again.)

You can read my friend Betsy’s review of this palette here on Autumn Masquerade.

* Though this palette series is officially called Layer Bloom Eyes, the English name on the outer boxes of palettes sold outside Japan is Blooming Eyes. Check out the photo on this post for the difference.

Lunasol Fall 2009 Collection

Lunasol Summer 2009 Collection
(more Layer Bloom Eyes palettes)

My Personal Take on Lunasol

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Makeup Review: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

by PJ on Friday, April 24, 2009

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer

(SUQQU Clear Veil Powder in 101 Clear (refill))

In this post, which I wrote in 2007, I mentioned SUQQU’s Clear Veil Powder. It was launched in fall 2006 and became an instant sensation.

It is a semi-transparent pressed powder. According to SUQQU, the main function of this product is that it sets the foundation without altering the foundation color or leaving any powdered finish. It is also claimed to be able to cover pores and deliver an oil absorption effect.

(It is available in 101 Clear (matte) and 102 Clear Pearl (very slightly shimmery). The case, refill, and brush (similar to the flat powder brush of RMK’s Powder Foundation EX) are all sold separately.)

When I touch the surface of the powder, it feels like a piece of frosted soft plastic. I can’t hardly pick up any powder with my fingers. It does seem considerably different from nearly all the other pressed-powder products I have come across.

The application can be slightly tricky, and, over the last couple of years, I have noticed that the SUQQU sales assistants’ application techniques have changed. I remember they used to advise that we sweep the brush gently across the powder (as we normally would with any pressed powder), but it appeared to me then that the brush was not really able to pick up the powder this way. Now the sales assistants seem to apply a lot more pressure with the brush to sweep up the powder, which I think is the only way to pick up the powder from the pan.

When the powder is applied on the skin (after I apply my powder foundation), the particles are invisible. Therefore, it is certainly true that it is able to set the foundation without leaving any trace of it (no alteration of foundation color or powdered finish). What I see is that the finish of my powder foundation becomes a little more matte and that the appearance of pores is more blurred, and this is obviously down to the semi-transparent silicone particles.

The pore-diffusing efficacy is decent, but I do feel that the oil-control ability is somewhat on the weak side.

In my post two years ago, I mentioned that I imagined Clear Veil Powder would be a pressed-powder equivalent of a silicone-based liquid/gel primer (think Smash Box’s Photo Finish) and that it would probably work as a “post-primer” (something with the same purposes as those of a primer but applied after the foundation). After I have tried it, I do still think of the product in the same way. But I do find that I can also use it as a primer and apply it before my powder foundation, so the product is more versatile than I expected.

Whether Clear Veil Powder serves all of our needs would vary from person to person. If you have finally found a foundation that offers the perfect match with your skin tone and think all the loose/pressed powder products that you come across interfere with the perfect match, then this setting powder is definitely worth looking into. If you use a setting powder to diffuse the look of pores, then this product may work well for you too. But if you rely on a setting powder to keep you shine-free, then this might not be the product you are looking for.

Overall, I commend the design of the product. In Japanese cosmetics, there are a lot fewer multi-purposed products, and, especially within Japanese base makeup, it seems to be mostly about one product serving one very specific purpose.

As I was reminded of all the Japanese office/kitchen/storage gadgets that faithfully and effectively serve their sole duties, I think Clear Veil Powder is another prime example of this sophisticated simplicity of consumer product design that Japanese brands (not just beauty brands) excel at. It also exemplifies the unique quality of Japanese makeup that will always keep me curious and fascinated.

SUQQU Contour Shadows
(another example of a unique and specialized product)

SUQQU Spring 2009 Collection Review

My Personal Take on SUQQU

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Jill Stuart Summer 2009 Makeup Collection

by PJ on Friday, April 24, 2009

in -Jill Stuart, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images/info from www.cosme.net)

Jill Stuart will release its summer 2009 makeup collection in Japan on June 5th. The lineup includes:

– Illuminance Eyes palette (1 new variation (Layered Gem), above)

– Jelly Eye Color N (10 shades)

– Jelly Lip Gloss (3 new shades)

– Nail Lacquer N (5 new shades)

– Base Coat N

– Top Coat N

– Protecting Paper N

Notice that the new packaging of Jelly Eye Color N. I think it looks even cuter now, and I am looking forward to seeing all the 10 colors.

Jill Stuart New Bodycare Items

Jill Stuart Spring 2009 Makeup Collection

Mix Blush Compact in 01 Baby Blush

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Coffret D’Or Summer 2009 Collection Update

by PJ on Wednesday, April 22, 2009

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2009 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(images from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

Coffret D’Or has updated its website to include information on its summer 2009 collection.

The uniqueness of the new series of eyeshadow palettes, Color Mixing Eyes, is that the top two colors are designed to be mixed together for the upper lids (while the left one of the two is used for the inner corners of the eyes).

The series features five variations:

01 Orange Brown Mix
02 Blue Green Mix
03 Silver Pink Mix
04 Lavender Purple Mix
05 Beige Black Mix

I like all the Coffret D’Or eyeshadow palettes I have, so I would certainly be interested in trying this upcoming series.

Updated on June 9th 2009:

Do have a look at the photos of all the Color Mixing Eyes palettes on this blog post.

I am still liking 04 Lavender Purple Mix and I am planning to try it. If I like its texture and finish, I might also get 01 Orange Brown Mix.

Posts on my Coffret D’Or eye palettes:

3D Lighting Eyes in Purple and Gold Variations

Trance Deep Eyes in Rose and Grey Variations

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Lunasol Fall 2009 Collection

by PJ on Monday, April 20, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2009 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

One reader (and a fellow Lunasol fan), Gemilay, kindly posted a comment under my post on Lunasol’s summer 2009 collection. (Thank you, Gemilay!)

She mentions that the Lunasol fall 2009 collection will have a “starry sky” theme. This seems to have already generated much excitement and anticipation among Lunasol fans. (Rich deep colors with dreamy shimmer and sparkles?)

Lunasol released the “Moonlight Purification” collection back in fall 2006, with five Lighting For Eyes palettes among other items. As Lunasol’s seasonal makeup themes have been revolving around the idea of “purification”, perhaps the official theme for fall 2009 could be “starlight purification”.

I can’t wait to see the collection…

(Starry Night over the Rhode, Vincent van Gogh, 1888)

You can also see some sneak-peek photos of some of the items from Lunasol’s summer 2009 collection on Gemilay’s recent blog post. (The collection won’t be released in Japan until May.)

Updated on June 9th 2009:

Please check out some further information on the collection here.

Updated on June 18th 2009:

More information on the collection here.

Updated on July 6th 2009:

More collection update here.

Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Cora l
(Color Purification, spring 2008)

Lunasol Scent Form Eyes 02
(Scent Purification, fall 2006)

Lunasol Full Glamour Gloss in Bright Pink
(Light Purification, spring 2006)

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Dior Lilas Addict Collection

by PJ on Friday, April 17, 2009

in -Dior, 2009 Summer, makeup

(image from beauty.dior.com/fra)

One reader, CedriCeCCentriC, kindly left a comment under my post on Dior’s summer 2009 makeup collection and brought my attention to the Lilas Addict collection on the Dior France website. (Thank you very much!) Some of the items here look gorgeous, and the name of the collection echoes my love (or addiction?) for lilac shades……

The collection includes new shades of Addict High Shine, Addict Ultra-Gloss Reflect and Dior Vernis. The eyeshadow palette in the photo appears to be the 129 Pearly Lilac that is a Neiman Marcus exclusive in the US. (Many thanks to Betsy at Autumn Masquerade for letting me know this a while ago.) It reminds me very slightly of Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Purple Variation.

I would love to see Pearly Lilac in person, but I am not entirely sure at the moment whether it will be available in the UK. I certainly hope so, and I will update this post when I have more information.

A Splash of Color: More Lilting Lilac

Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in Seascape

Dior 5-Color Design Eyeshadow Palettes

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Dior Summer 2009 Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, April 14, 2009

in -Dior, 2009 Summer, makeup

(images/info from www.iswii.net)

I am sure many of you have seen images of Dior’s summer 2009 makeup collection. Here is a quick look at the items.

– Dior Cristal Shine (above, limited edition)

– 5-Color Iridescent Eyeshadow (259, 859 (limited edition))

– Dior Bronze Harmonie de Blush (001, 002, limited editions)

– Diorskin Shimmer Powder (004, limited edition)

– Dior Bronze Original Tan (002, limited edition)

– Crayon Eyeliner (033, limited edition)

– Dior Addict High Shine (154, 374 (limited edition), 864)

– Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss Reflect (377 (limited edition), 647)

– DiorKiss (541 (limited edition), 851)

– Dior Addict Lip Glow SPF 10

– Dior Vernis (681, 741, limited editions)

The star item, Dior Crystal Shine, has a industrial-chic feel. It is not really calling out to me, so I think my Boots points are safe for the moment…

Dior Lady Dior Palette for Spring 2009

Dior Night Diamond for Holiday 2008

From My Treasure Chest – Dior Princess Ring

Dior Pro Face & Eye Creators

Dior Cleansing Gelee for Face, Lips and Eyes

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Makeup Review: RMK Powder Foundation EX

by PJ on Monday, April 13, 2009

in -RMK, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

(RMK Powder Foundation EX in 103)

RMK is one of the Japanese beauty brands known for their base makeup. It doesn’t update its base makeup range as often as many other Japanese beauty lines, so it really attracts attention when it does. Today I am reviewing RMK’s latest powder foundation, Powder Foundation EX (SPF24, PA++, in 9 shades).

The whole idea of this foundation is to create the dewy finish of a cream foundation with a powder foundation. The foundation features a “powder” layer and a “pearl” layer. The powder layer is used as the usual powder foundation, while the pearl layer is used as a highlighter (with the brush that comes with the foundation).

This foundation gives a slightly-above-medium coverage, and the pore coverage and the lasting power are satisfactory. In terms of the dewy finish that this powder foundation sets out to achieve, it is a successful product. The powder is very fine and it doesn’t create a powdered look. The finish is indeed dewy and glowy.

According to the instruction sheet that comes with the foundation, the pearl layer should be avoided on the T-zone and the sides of the nose, which can get oily overtime. I think the pearl layer is definitely more suitable on the top of the cheekbones to both emphasize the dewy look and to highlight the cheekbones.

The downside of this foundation is that it has very little oil control efficacy. If you have oily skin, the dewy finish (just from the powder layer) will not hold overtime and will make your face appear even more oily as the day goes on. (I tried using Kiss Mat Chiffon Powder (which is the most matte loose powder I have) to set the foundation, but my face still started to look oily within two hours.)

The shade you see here is 103, which is a yellow-toned shade. It goes on a little darker than it looks in the pan, and it is about one shade darker than Majolica Majorca Skin Remake Compact in OC20 and two shades darker than my staple, ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22. (The other shade tested is 202, which is a pale pink-toned shade that is considerably paler than ZA 22.)

There are two other things worth mentioning. Firstly, the sponge that comes with the foundation doesn’t work particularly well. The fact that it is so soft and smooth actually works against itself, as it is not porous enough to grab and dispense/spread the powder efficiently. It still helps the foundation create a smooth finish on the face, but it takes a long time. (The sponge from my ZA Two-Way Foundation, which is just an ordinary powder foundation sponge similar to most others, actually works better with this foundation.)

Secondly, I like the grey velvet sleeves for the foundation case and the brush. At the first sight, they didn’t look as glamorous as the dark ones from Chanel, Dior, YSL and SUQQU. But overtime, they prove to be very practical as they never look as dusty as the dark sleeves can sometimes look. They are also somewhat chic-looking.

Overall, I think this product falls into the category of fall/winter foundations from Japanese brands and will suit people with normal or dry skin. Essentially, if your skin can take an emollient cream foundation and if you like the dewy finish from it, then this product can work well for you. (It should also provide a speedier application than applying a cream foundation). However, if you have combination or oily skin, this product is certainly not for you (even if you avoid the pearl layer). A more matte foundation with a good sebum control ability, such as Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Pact UV, will suit you a lot better.