makeup

(continued from Part 1 and Part 2)

3rd: Dior

(image from www.dior.com)

Dior’s makeup collections tend to capture the trend very well, and this season’s release has done it again, with gorgeous pinks, lilacs, and warm neutrals to add depth.
(Dior spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.joseishi.net/voce/)

Visually stunning as well as wearable, the collection is a feast for the eyes. I always like a seasonal collection with a strong identity, and all the variation of pinks, along with the ad campaign, create a distinct look for this collection.

Dior’s eye palettes have been getting more and more shimmery. (Almost all the shades in this season’s two palettes are very shimmery.) Even though I am not sure I like this direction, the finishes of these shades are still flattering.

2nd: Coffret D’Or

(part of Coffret D’Or’s spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

Like EST, Coffret D’Or‘s spring collection is another sublime debut collection. I know some people were not looking forward to seeing T’Estimo being discontinued and replaced by Coffret D’Or. But I simply chose to see Coffret D’Or as the same line (plus base makeup products) being marketed under a new name and new packaging.

I do like the new packaging. It looks more gown-up than T’Estimo and I like the jeweled details on the eye palettes.

The 3D Lighting Eyes palettes are definitely the core of this collection. I have read more reviews where people choose not to buy the spring 2008 palettes from Maquillage or Aube (both of which are similarly priced) and go for Coffret D’Or instead (than the other way around). Even though the color combinations are not particularly unique or striking (see one of my other Coffret D’Or posts for the image of the five palettes), the texture, finish, and lasting power are what make them stand out. (Please check out my review on 3D Lighting Eyes in 04.)

Overall, this is a very exciting debut collection, and Coffret D’Or has probably already created many future loyal followers.

1st: Lunasol

(Lunasol Full Glamor Lips G)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

Since Coffret D’Or is already so good, why makes Lunasol’s spring 2008 collection even better?

It is the core concept, which is what makes a collection memorable. It is also the visual impact of the whole lineup and how it translates to daily wear.

The colors of the sea and the shades of coral reefs provide the inspiration for this collection. The five Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes are simply gorgeous.

(Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

While the Sheer Contrast Eyes palette in Blue Coral (above, bottom left) is used for Lunasol’s main ad campaign and is heavily featured in Japanese beauty magazines, I chose Lavender Coral, which I reviewed earlier. The superb quality has consolidated Lunasol’s position as one of my favorite cosmetics brands.

With a distinctive concept and a beautifully wide range of vibrant yet wearable colors, this is the best collection for me in spring 2008.

This concludes my seasonal roundup for spring 2008. What about you? Which spring 2008 collection/item is your favorite?

More Thoughts on Spring 2008

When I was doing my “seasonal top ten” features in the last few seasons, I did feel that the brands I talked about might be a little repetitive for my readers. Since the top-ten countdown is only meant to reflect my own preferences, I never intend to feature a widely varied selection of brands from season to season.

But it is very refreshing to see Eprise, Clinique, Clé de Peau, and Maquillage come up with appealing collections. Also, Coffret D’Or‘s and EST‘s strong debut color makeup lineups prove to be serious competitors.

On the other hand, for me, the spring 2008 collections from Chanel, YSL, Jill Stuart, and Lavshuca are relatively disappointing. But I am sure these favorite brands of mine will wow me later this year.

Related Posts:

Coffret D’Or’s Spring/Summer 2008 Base Makeup Collection
(The loose powder is on my shopping list.)

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or
(Is Lunasol still winning?)

Loving Japanese Brand – Lunasol

(my personal take on Lunasol)

{ 8 comments }

(part of the EST Summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.cosme.net)

EST will release the summer 2008 collection in Japan on April 26th. The collection includes:

Emotional Aura Gloss: 10 shades, fragrance-free
Nail Color: 12 shades
Nail Foundation (base coat)
Nail Color Remover

Essentially, the collection features more basics which add to the debut collection launched in November 2007, which has been generally very well received. I particularly look forward to seeing the shades of the glosses.

I will update this post with more images later on.

Updated on March 31st, 2008:

The EST website has been updated to include information on the summer 2008 collection. (All images are from www.kao.co.jp/est/.)



(EST Emotional Aura Gloss)

Like EST’s Emotional Aura Lips, the lip glosses are grouped into three categories. Innocent Colors (#101-106) are moderately pigmented, Pure Colors (#201, 202) are on the sheer side, and Deep Colors (#301, 302) are more heavily pigmented.





You can check the EST website to see the shades of the Nail Color.


Related Posts:

Lunasol Summer 2008 Collection

Kate Summer 2008 Collection

{ 0 comments }

(continued from Part 1)


6th: Clinique

(Clinique spring 2008 collection)
(from Voce February 2008
Spring 2008 Makeup Catalog, p. 14 – 15)


I did surprise myself initially by liking this collection. But as the Color Surge Trios have been looking lovely for the past few weeks, I’ve decided to include Clinique‘s spring 2008 collection in my top ten.

(Clinique Color Surge Trios)
(from Voce February 2008
Spring 2008 Makeup Catalog, p. 14)


With brands like Chanel and Givenchy featuring dark and ashy blues for spring, which don’t really appeal to me, Clinique’s soft and cheerful pastels are unexpectedly welcoming. The color combinations are straightforward and wearable, and the lilac and pink look especially dreamy. As someone who doesn’t wear green very much, I actually find the green palette very tempting too.

5th: Eprise

(part of the Albion Eprise spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.albion.co.jp)

Eprise‘ spring 2008 collection is not hugely extensive but still includes items for eyes, cheeks, lips, and nails. Most of the shades have a gentle and girlie feel. Like Clinique, Eprise’ Creamy Eye Colors also feature pastel blue, green, and lilac.

(Eprise spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.albion.co.jp)

What instantly attracted my attention upon seeing this collection was the Water Face Color, which is a range of liquid blushers. I picked up the shade in 100, a very natural pink. Easy to use and long-lasting, it is definitely a great makeup purchase for this season.

4th: EST

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

The EST debut color makeup collection was launched on November 24th, 2007. But Biteki’s spring 2008 makeup catalog (March 2008 issue) includes this collection, so I am counting it as a spring 2008 release.
(EST Emotional Aura Eyes palettes)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

As should a debut color collection, it includes all the basics. I think the highlights of the collection are the Emotional Aura Eyes (above) and Emotional Aura Pack (featured in the ad image above), which is a selection of highlighters for different parts of the eye area. (Please see my brand profile on EST for more on this item.)

Overall, this is a triumphant debut collection with a very feminine and sophisticated feel. I look forward to seeing how this color makeup line evolves.

Do come back for Part 3!

Other spring 2008 collections worth checking out:

Lavshuca Spring 2008 Collection

Kate Spring 2008 Collection

{ 8 comments }

(Anna Sui Luxury Eye Palette)
(image from www.iswii.net)

Repeating the design of the two Luxury Eye Palettes (in black cases) from the 2006 Holiday collection, Anna Sui will be releasing another Luxury Eye Palette and a Luxury Lip Palette. Both are limited editions.

I like the shades in the Luxury Eye Palette, particularly the soft teal and the lilac. The colorful shades are balanced by the warm neutrals.

The Luxury Lip Palette appears to be a combination of lip colors and glosses:

(Anna Sui Luxury Lip Palette)
(image from www.iswii.net)

Anna Sui sometimes releases Asia-only limited-edition items, and at the moment I am not sure if these two palettes will be released in North America. I will keep you updated if I come across any information.

Updated on March 21st 2008:

One of my readers, Ebontien, kindly let me know that the two palettes are being sold in Canada. (Thank you, Ebontien!)

I suppose they are or will be available in the US as well.

Related Posts:

Anna Sui Spring/Summer Base Makeup Collection

We Love Anna Sui Official Book

Sui Lip Gloss in 100


{ 8 comments }

(Lunasol summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)


Lunasol will launch the summer 2008 collection in Japan on May 9th.

The collection includes:

Full Glamor Gloss N: 10 shades (2 of which limited editions)
Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes: 2 new variations (limited editions)
Geminate Liners: 2 new shades
Nail Finish: 4 new shades

This is another stellar collection from Lunasol, with rich and colorful hues. Very exciting!

Lunasol will also release two new skincare products on the same day, Scrubful Wash and Skin Control Mist. Both aim for maintaining a fresh and shine-free complexion for summer.

Updated on April 7, 2008:

First of all, here are photos of the two new eye palettes:

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)

(image from woman.excite.co.jp)

Also, you can see swatches of these two palettes and the two new Geminate Liners.

Related Posts:

Lunasol Spring 2008 Collection
(colorful and wearable)

Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral
(a gorgeous lilac palette)

Lunasol Full Glamor Gloss in Bright Pink
(one of my favorite lip glosses)

{ 0 comments }

(Kate summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)


Kate will release the summer 2008 collection in Japan on May 1st.

The collection includes:

Rouge Trance S lipsticks: 8 shades
Dual Carat eyeshadow duos: 3 new variations

The Dual Carat range has been popular, so I think the new additions will be very welcomed. The Rouge Trance S will be a range of sheer and mildly pigmented lipsticks focusing on creating transparent and dimensional lips.

This is my first summer 2008 makeup collection post, and I am looking forward to bringing you more!

Related Posts:

Kate – Lavshuca’s Darker, Edgier Sister

Kate Spring 2008 Collection

{ 2 comments }

Every season, I count down my ten personal favorite makeup collections. This week, I present my top ten for spring 2008. In reverse order:

10: Clé de Peau

(Eye Color Quad in 116 (left) and 117 (right))
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/cpb)

This is Clé de Peau‘s first time in my top ten in the last few years. I love the ad image and the gentle and feminine look with the blue eyeshadow. The Eye Color Quad in 117 is a delicious combination of purple, aqua blue, and mint green. Apart from capturing the trend, I think this versatile palette can take you right through the summer months.

9. Maquillage

(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/mq)

Maquillage is another line that hasn’t been featured in my seasonal top ten very much. But there is something very striking about their latest seasonal look, which is my favorite look for spring 2008. One of the key items of the collection is Clean Contrast Eyes 2 in SV844, which is used to create the soft lilac eyes we see above:

(Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes 2 in SV844)
(image from www.shiseido.co.jp/mq)

This palette combines the very trendy grey from fall 2007 and the spring 2008 leading color lilac. It can also be seen as a monochrome palette with lilac as the accent color. It can create a variety of looks, from gentle and fresh to intensely smoky.

This shade combination is not the first for Maquillage. Contrast Eyes in SV862, released in spring 2006, is quite similar (but the lilac looks warmer). T’Estimo’s Grande Shine Eyes in 02, from summer 2007, also has a similar concept. But the release of this color combination in spring 2008 as a key item of the collection reflects Maquillage’s attempt to interpret the current trend. (Teaser: A full review of Clean Contrast Eyes 2 in SV844 is coming up next week!)

8: Ayura

(part of the Ayura spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.ayura.co.jp)

Ayura‘s spring 2008 collection is very visually appealing. I am sure some of the people familiar with Ayura were delighted to see the brand take on a new color scheme for the packing. The intricate patterns against the black cases look exquisitely classy.

The collection includes 4 blushers, 21 lipsticks, and 18 nail colors. There is no item for eyes, but it is almost certain that we are going to see some beautiful eye colors in the new black cases.


7. Anna Sui

(part of the Anna Sui spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

Anna Sui is probably the princess of vibrant colors. The spring 2008 collection features bright hues for eyes and nails. The three limited-edition Sui Lip Glosses (above) appear to be very bright, but they all go on naturally sheer. (Have a look at my review of the blue-tinted Sui Lip Gloss in 100.)

This is one of the more memorable seasonal collections from Anna Sui in the last couple of years, and I hope there will be more lovely items to come!

See you in Part 2!

Related Posts:

Magie Deco Spring 2008 Collection
(A great collection that just missed the cut…)

Spring 2008 Makeup Trend Report
(before we move into summer…)

{ 2 comments }

(Paul & Joe
Light Cream Foundation in 03 Clair)

Most of the time, I wear a powder foundation, and my favorite by far is Shiseido ZA’s Two-Way Foundation (which I will be talking about in two weeks). In short, it has good coverage, controls shine fairly well, covers pores effectively, and is long-lasting.

But, occasionally, mostly in winter, I am tempted to play with liquid or cream foundations. At 26 pounds in the UK (around 51 USD), Paul & Joe‘s Light Cream Foundation (SPF 15 PA ++) would be a little too expensive as something to experiment with from time to time. But when I saw it at 13 pounds during the winter sale after Christmas last year, I decided to take it home.

I have used it for quite a few times, and here are my thoughts:

Texture & Consistency: The name “Light Cream” is not a very accurate description of the consistency, but almost in a good way. It is actually a lot more fluidy than many liquid foundations I have tried. I tend to go for a light and liquidy texture rather than a creamier texture, so I am very happy with the smooth double-cream consistency.

Slip & Blendability: There are some quite liquidy foundations that don’t have enough slip and dry too quickly to be blended evenly. Not this one. Out of all the liquid/cream foundations I have tried, this one probably has the best slip. It spreads and blends so easily that it feels like a smooth moisturizer.This is by far the best aspect of this foundation.

Finish: It imparts a luminous sheen, without any visible shimmer. Even though the finish is not overly shiny, I’d still set the foundation with a matte loose/pressed powder. (Also, please note that this foundation is not formulated to control shine.)

Coverage: I have come across a couple of reviews of this item where users praise the good coverage. But I suspect that this observation is based on the comparison with other Paul & Joe foundations, as the brand is known for sheer and ultra-natural foundations. I would still describe Light Cream Foundation’s coverage as light (not even light-to-medium).

Pore Coverage: I have very rarely come across a liquid/cream foundation that gives the pore coverage I want, and I always use a loose/pressed powder afterwards for that purpose. So I didn’t expect much. But because it has a superb texture and slip and it adheres to the skin well, the pore-diffusing ability is fair.

Lasting Power: Due to the sheer coverage, it is not easy to tell how good the lasting/staying power is. Considering the coverage does retain for a good number of hours, the lasting power appears to be relatively satisfactory.

Even though this foundation has an exceptionally pleasing texture and slip, it falls short on coverage. After using it for several times, I actually decided to use it more as a primer and then use a powder foundation to gently add coverage and matte out the shine. For me, this item works the best this way.

(Light Cream Foundation was replaced by Light Cream Foundation N, which is why this original version was being reduced. Currently it is not available at UK Paul & Joe counters anymore. But, several authorized on-line retailers still carry it. Please check the shop list on Paul & Joe’s global website for details. Some shops ship internationally.)

Related Posts on Foundations:

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

Foundation Face-Off – Chanel vs. SUQQU

Related Posts on Paul & Joe:


Paul & Joe Face Powder

(another Paul & Joe acquisition during the sale)

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe
(my take on Paul & Joe)

Japanese Brands Available in the UK
(and where to get them from elsewhere)

{ 12 comments }

UK Follow-Ups in Brief

by PJ on Friday, March 7, 2008

in -Calvin Klein, -SUQQU, 2008 Spring, fashion, makeup

— Originally scheduled to launch on March 6th in the UK, Calvin Klein Beauty will launch on March 31st, according to the customer service at House of Fraser on Oxford Street, London.

Banana Republic’s UK/Europe launch has also been delayed. According to the sign (outside the construction site on Regent Street, London), the launch date is March 20th.

SUQQU’s spring 2008 collection has been launched in Selfridges Oxford Street. The texture of the eyeshadows is smooth as usual, and the Eye Lucent loose eyeshadow has intense but fine shimmer. Kyokkou (in silvery white) is particularly bright and shimmery. It is definitely one of the least matte seasonal collections from SUQQU.

{ 0 comments }

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Pack UV
& Lunasol Skin Fusing Powder Foundation)

After my first “foundation face-off” post (SUQQU vs. Chanel), some readers were wondering if I would do more. So here is another one, focusing on Lunasol’s current powder foundation, Skin Fusing Powder Foundation (referred to as “Lunasol” below), and Coffret D’Or’s debut powder foundation, Beauty Lasting Pack UV (referred to as “Coffret D’Or” below).

I have also tried the matching primers. I will review how the primers work with the foundations later on. The following comparison is based on the foundations worn without the primers (and right after my Olay daytime moisturizer/sunscreen).

Basics

– Lunasol: SPF 20 PA ++, 6 shades, released in spring 2007
– Coffret D’Or: SPF 24 PA ++, 7 shades, released in spring 2008 (March 1st)

Finish

Lunasol gives a luminous and almost glowy finish, while Coffret D’Or has a predominantly matte finish with subtle luminosity. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Lunasol feels very pleasingly soft and velvety, while Coffret D’Or is slightly drier (but not chalky).

Coverage

Lunasol gives a very good above-medium coverage and successfully covers minor imperfections and redness. Coffret D’Or has a slightly below-medium coverage. In terms of how the coverage maintains throughout the day, both have a good staying power.

Pore Coverage

Lunasol has a relatively good pore-diffusing ability mainly due to the exceptionally velvety texture that adheres to the skin very well. Coffret D’Or’s pore-concealing ability is satisfactory but not outstanding.

Shine Control

All along, it seems Lunasol is winning. However, Coffret D’Or’s sebum-controlling ability is so impressive that I prefer it to Lunasol overall.

First of all, with Coffret D’Or on, it takes noticeably longer for my oily skin to appear visibly shiny than it does with some of my favorite foundations, like Sofina Raycious (earlier versions) and Shiseido ZA. Also, after gentling matting out the shine, the face looks nearly as matte as when foundation is first applied, which is not always the case with most foundations I’ve tried.

As for Lunasol, the soft powder (which has an almost-moist feel) does not seem to absorb sebum very well. The luminous and glowy finish makes the shine look more pronounced as the day goes on. Also, the face still looks somewhat shiny after I matte out the shine.

Between the two, I prefer Coffret D’Or for its exceptionally good shine-control ability. For me, the finish can look a little dry during the first hour of wear. But after that, the finish looks natural for the rest of the day with little maintenance. If you have combination or oily skin or if you live in a warm climate, Coffret D’Or is worth considering.

However, if you have dry skin with no issue of excessive sebum, then Lunasol’s soft and velvety powder will probably suit you better and give you a beautifully luminous finish.

With the primers:

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Veil UV
& Lunasol Smoothing Makeup Base)

Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Veil UV (SPF 20, PA ++, alcohol-free) has a very pleasing light milky texture and is easy to apply. Designed to add luminosity to the skin, it goes on almost completely sheer and it has visible shimmer. With this primer, Coffret D’Or’s finish turns considerably more velvety, almost like Lunasol (when worn without any primer) and the level of pore coverage is also increased slightly.

However, for me, the huge drawback is that the shine-control ability considerably lessens, which is very disappointing.

Lunasol’s Smoothing Makeup Base (no sunscreen factor, with some alcohol) is designed to diffuse the appearance of pores. It is slightly thicker than Beauty Lasting Veil UV but it is still easy to apply. It goes on almost completely sheer and does not have shimmer.

When worn with this primer, Lunasol’s smooth and velvety texture remains but the finish turns slightly more matte. Even though I don’t think the primer and the foundation worn together conceal pores better (then the foundation alone), the primer does seem to help control shine to a small extent.

While I would see Beauty Lasting Veil UV as a moisturizing primer for those who think Coffret D’Or is too dry, Smoothing Makeup Base seems to be for those concerned about Lunasol’s lack of shine-control ability.

Overall, in terms of the four options (two foundations with/without the primers), I would still prefer Coffret D’Or worn without primer. The winning attribute is definitely the outstanding shine-control efficacy.

Related Posts:
(spring/summer 2008 base makeup lineups)

Coffret D’Or
(loving the look of the loose powder)

SUQQU
(known for good-quality foundations)

Anna Sui
(very tempted to pick up the loose powder compact)

{ 32 comments }