makeup

(Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Stage Lights)

Lilac eyeshadows are some of the most on-trend items for spring 2008, and I have been a fan of them for a while. Today I bring you another lilac palette that can create this season’s hottest look.
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Chanel’s Quadra Eye Shadow in Stage Lights is perhaps the softest (in terms of color) and the sheerest lilac eye palette that I’ve had so far.

– Top left: white with substantial pearly shimmer
– Top right: pale lilac with soft shimmer
– Bottom left: medium lilac with soft shimmer
– Bottom right: a very pale pink with substantial pearly shimmer

Stage Lights is part of Chanel’s spring 2006 collection. While I distinctively remember liking the look of this, I had no intention of buying it at the time. My minty-green-and-turquoise phase was just about to start back then, and I picked up the Irréelle Duo in River-Light later that year.

My lilac phase started later that year and this palette was under the radar several months ago. After testing the shades many times recently and seeing the colors under different lighting conditions, I decided to have it.

The colors go on lighter than they appear in the container. Initially this was one of my reasons against buying it, but then I thought the soft and gentle finishes are great for a barely-there veil of lilac for the eyes. Also, I like the fact that the two lilacs and the pink are on the cool side and that they look more flattering on me than warmer ones.

Compared with many other eyeshadows from Japanese cosmetics brands, the texture of Chanel’s baked eyeshadows can be a little dry and the pigmentation level would disappoint many people. (The Irréelle range seems to fare better on these.) While a smoother texture would be more ideal, I don’t do a lot of layering for a daytime look so the sheerness is not a negative attribute. Obviously this palette can be worn wet for added intensity, but I simply reach for my other lilac palettes for that.

For spring 2008, Chanel released 4 Fleurs de Chanel, which is a very pretty item.
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(4 Fleurs de Chanel,
from Chanel’s spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.chanel.com)
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When I saw it for the first time last November (here), I thought I would definitely get it. But later on I got less and less excited, hearing that the colors are all very pale and very similar. (The collection was released a lot later in the UK than the US and Asia.) So I actually took a small risk and bought Stage Lights before 4 Fleurs de Chanel was released here. At least Stage Lights has two lilac shades, whereas 4 Fleurs de Chanel only has one.
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When I finally got to try 4 Fleurs de Chanel, things I heard were confirmed. They are essentially white eyeshadows with various undertones (blue, lilac, and pink). While I do think the texture is very smooth and that the shimmer is quite intense but still sophisticated, I have no intention to buy it. I am still very happy with my Stage Lights.

Although, among all my lilac eye palettes, it does not rank as highly as my Coffret D’Or or Lunasol, the fact that the tones of the two lilacs are also spot-on for my skin-tone is enough for me to go back to it from time to time.

[A reader kindly reminded me that I didn’t actually describe my skin-tone in the last paragraph of my review. I have a medium-to-light skin-tone, with a pink undertone. The foundation I have been using in the past few years is ZA Two-Way Foundation in 22. It has a slight yellow undertone and I use it to neutralize my pink undertone. With foundation on, I would still describe my facial skin-tone as having a very slight touch of pink undertone.]

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Related Posts:

Spring 2008 Makeup Trend Report
(not just about lilac…)

Jill Stuart Brilliance Eyes in Gem Amethyst
(diamond-dust shine)

Kanebo T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes
(discontinued but not forgotten)

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(Prescriptives Lip Strips in Techno Cool
& Blush More or Less in Thai Orchid)

Prescriptives’ spring 2008 collection, The Technotropics, features vibrant-looking but very wearable colors. Here I review two items from this collection.


Lip Strips
in Techno Cool (limited-edition)

This compact includes five lip glosses with mostly cooler pinks. (Tropical Warm features five warmer shades.) The darkest shade (second from the top) is relatively pigmented as a lip gloss while the rest four are quite sheer. The top shade has no shimmer, and the middle three shades have subtle shimmer. The bottom white-ish shade has a lot of quite sparkling shimmer, and the finish is too intensely shimmery for my liking. But the product design does allow the user to easily mix two or more colors together, particularly any two adjoining shades.

My observation of most lip glosses in this semi-solid form is that they don’t usually give a watery or glassy shine. The finish tends to be more of a luminous sheen, which sometimes can look a little oily. While the finishes of these glosses are more balmy than greasy, personally I’d prefer a more watery shine.

Blush More or Less Creamy Cheek Color in Thai Orchid

I find that the Prescriptive website seems to have quite an accurate description of the texture of this product. This cream blusher is described to have “the smoothness of a cream and the lightness of a mousse”. Indeed, this is not like most cream blushers which can feel a little greasy, and the texture is light and almost mousse-like. (But it is not as mousse-y or spongy as, for example, Maybelline’s Dream Mousse Cheek Color.)

What impresses me about this formulation is that the mousse-like texture makes blending very easy, which is particularly vital for a blusher. It dries to a smooth semi-powdery finish with very subtle luminosity. It has a fairly satisfactory staying powder.

Thai Orchid appears to be a very intense rosy red. But it can easily be worn with varying intensity and it looks very natural worn sheer.

Between the two items, I much prefer the blusher. But the lip compact, which is the size of a typical round foundation case, can be a competent space-saver during traveling and go with various eye and cheek looks if you enjoy the balmy finishes.

Related Posts:

Blushers:

Albion Eprise Water Cheek Color
(another non-powder formulation that works well)

Ayura Aura Veil α in Sweet Pink

(perfect for spring)

Lip Glosses:

Lunasol Full Glamor Gloss in Bright Pink
(one of my favorites)

Rimmel Underground Light Beam Lip Gloss
(natural watery sheen)

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(Radiant Pastels
Shiseido The Makeup Spring 2008 Collection)
(image from www.shiseido.com/themakeup)

With Dick Page as the artistic director, Shiseido The Makeup‘s spring 2008 collection is looking fresh and colorful. (On the Shiseido website, the collection is billed as a (Dick Page) “inspired collaboration”.) While there are no new product designs, this is a visually very pleasing collection, from the shade selection to the ad image.

The collection includes:

— Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow: 4 new shades (seen below)
— Shimmering Lipstick: 4 new shades
— Multi-Shade Enhancer: 2 shades, Terra-Cotta Glow and Sunset Glow (Sunset Glow is a limited-edition item from summer 2007 and is now a regular product.)

(Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow)
(image from www.shiseido.com/themakeup)


I have tested Hydro-Powder Eye Shadow in H10 Languid Lagoon at the counter. The actual color is darker than what we see in the image above. It also looks greener and is less aqua-ish. I have to say, for me personally, it looks slightly better on the website and in magazine pages.

I might not pick up any item from this collection, but I will still look forward to more creations from the master.

Related Posts:

Shiseido Clé de Peau Spring 2008 Collection
(another gorgeous ad image)

Spring 2008 Makeup Trend Report
(featuring key items for this season)

Must-Try Look for Spring 2008
(trendy and wearable)

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(French graffiti artist Fafi at Henri Bendel)
(from www.nypost.com)

The Fari for MAC collection might have a bright and funky image with its fair share of vibrant colors. But, there are some very wearable shades and several bright-looking items that are not too difficult to work with. Even though the packaging is obviously targeted at a young audience, I feel that many shades have a more universal appeal.

Here are my favorites from the Fafi for MAC collection:

(Clock-wise from upper right:
Powder Blush in Hipness & Fashion Frenzy,
Lipstick in Fun ‘n’ Sexy & Strawbaby,
and Lipglass in Totally It)


My favorite items by far are the two blushers (Powder Blush in Fashion Frenzy & Hipness). Fashion Frenzy, my preferred one out of the two, has the kind of cool pink shade that I know would suit me. But because it is on the vibrant side and the blush is very pigmented, I do have to be very light-handed with it. (I also like the turquoise Fafi logo on the lid against the pink blusher.) Hipness initially appeared to be a peachy shade that might not suit me, but I was pleasantly surprised by its wearability as it turned more pink after a few hours’ wear. Both blushers have a fair lasting power.

Totally It is my favorite Lipglass from this collection. It is a bright pink with cherry pink and purple shimmer. Even though two of the other Lipglasses, Cult Fave and Sugar Trance, have more wearable shades, the shimmer is too frosty for my liking. On my lips, one sheer layer of Totally It actually looks relatively natural and this is how I’d wear it most of the time. With a second layer, the brightness of the pink really intensifies. Apart from the lovely pink and purple shimmer, I also enjoy the lasting shine.

The Lipstick in Strawbaby is a very wearable warm-rose with some delicate blue-green shimmer and should suit most skin-tones. On the other hand, Fun ‘n’ Sexy is a similar bright pink to the Totally It Lipglass with purple and bright pink shimmer.

I think the wearability of many items in the Fafi for MAC collection also appeals to some younger customers that have just started to experiment with makeup and want something easy to use. The Fafi Eyes palette in #1 is a very basic palette that would suit a beginner in makeup, and it actually reminds me of Chanel’s 4-color eyeshadow palette in Influences, which is one of the first eye palettes I bought. (The actual shades and finishes do vary, but the concepts are similar.)

(left: MAC Fafi Eyes #1;
right: Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Influences)


Despite MAC Paint Pots‘ rich colors and long-lasting quality, I am not really a fan of them. The colors are difficult to blend and none of the finishes featured in the Fafi for MAC collection (cream, satin, and frost) looks optimally flattering. This is a bit of a shame, because Rollickin’ and Girl Friendly could have potentially been shades I’d constantly reach for. (Rollickin’ is a turquoise with pale gold shimmer, which is better than the distracting yellow and green shimmer commonly seen in turquoise eyeshadows. Girl Friendly is a dusty rose-petal pink that is subtly elegant.)

Overall, the Fafi for MAC collection offers something for most people, from eye-catching lip shades to subdue neutrals for eyes. I still find it hard to like most of the packaging and the Fafinettes, but the two lovely blushers (which, for me personally, pleasantly don’t feature the Fafinettes) will potentially be very active members in my blusher family.

Related Posts:

MAC for A-Mei Collection
(perfectly in tune with her heritage)

Alexander McQueen for MAC Eyeshadow in Haunting
(loving this turquoise)

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New Side Bar Categories Added!

by PJ on Monday, February 25, 2008

in announcement, makeup, skincare, stash focus

I have added two new categories on my side bar so you can locate my past posts more easily:

My Current Makeup Favorites

My Skincare Essentials

The items in “My Current Makeup Favorites” include both some of my long-term staples and seasonal favorites. “The Skincare Essentials” feature items I am using on a daily basis now.

I will update these two categories constantly to reflect my current preferences (especially regarding my seasonal favorites), so do check back!

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(a tearful diva)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

A reader once asked me why, regardless of the generally consistent quality, certain Japanese makeup lines (under the same company) are more expensive than others. To summarize my answer for her, apart from the fact that price-points and target consumer groups define each other, more prestigious makeup lines tend to have a fuller philosophy behind their creations.

One prime example is Sofina EST.

Sofina‘s EST is not new. It has been a skincare line under Kao’s Sofina for many years, and it is Sofina’s most expensive line. In fall 2007, EST launched a full color makeup line, following the earlier debut of the base makeup range. (While, obviously, the brand name reminds people of the superlative suffix “-est”, Sofina also advocates that it is an acronym for “Essence of Sofina Technology”.)

The over-arching concept of EST’s color makeup is Emotional Beauty. As our faces are always displaying various feelings and emotions, EST attempts to use colors and finishes to enhance our day-to-day expressions of emotions. So, our beaming smiles look even more dazzling, our focused determination is even more infectious, and our sorrow melts the hardest of hearts.

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


I love EST’s recent ad images. They are beautifully and subtly compelling, with colors that enhance the facial features rather than overtake them. To embody the essence of the line, the model (April) displays a much wider range of emotions than what we usually see in makeup advertisements. The image on the top of this post is by far my favorite. As for the two below, I call them “despair & hope”:

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

However, all this ethos will be hollow if it can’t translate to product designs. So how does EST carry out their promise?

One item that defines the line is Emotional Aura Pact. Essentially, this is a highlighter for the eye area. It includes four subtly different shades of various finishes and opaqueness, and each of them is used on a specific part of the eye area.

(Emotional Aura Pack)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


Apart from the eye area, this multi-purpose item can also be used around the lips to sculpt your pout. So, when you feel surprised, happy, curious, excited, inspired, or moved, this item is designed to capture your million faces and help them make a lasting impression.

Also, so far, I have come across good comments on Emotional Aura Eyes, the eye palette range:

(Emotional Aura Eyes palettes)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


After the huge success of Kanebo’s Lunasol in the last couple of years, Kosé’s Magie Deco and Sofina’s EST were two of the major makeup launches in late 2007 that posed as rivals. Similarly priced and packaged with a sophisticated flair, they appeal to similar demographics. With a strong and distinctive concept behind it, Sofina EST’s development and evolution will be immensely interesting to chart and will serve as an indication of the future of Japanese cosmetics.

[Even though Sofina is available in Japan and several other countries in Asia, the EST line is currently only available in Japan as far as I know. The EST website is for information only and does not offer on-line ordering.]

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol
(my current favorite Japanese brand)

Brand Profile: SUQQU
(a reverse strategy that works)

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes
(replacing the beloved T’Estimo)

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(Dior Eyeshadow Duo in DiorLagoon)

I started this blog in November 2006. If I had started it several months earlier, many of my initial posts would have probably been about finding the best turquoise eyeshadow for myself.

That was a major quest in the summer of that year. I got Dior’s Seascape a couple of months earlier. While loving the purple and the blue, I decided I wanted a nice turquoise. Not a soft pastel turquoise…a real turquoise. So the search began.

I soon found that many turquoise shades had yellow and/or green shimmer. While I see how it balances the blue undertone of the shade and makes the finish more dynamic, I think it is a little distracting, and I really just wanted a nice straightforward rich turquoise. (Bourjois’ Mono Eyeshadow in Turquoise Ensoleillée is one that has the yellow/green shimmer that doesn’t appeal to me.)

After auditioning many turquoise contenders during that time, I found myself going back to Dior.

Apart from the fact that Dior’s eyeshadows are consistently silky and easy to blend, I like the satiny finish in the eyeshadow duo range. DiorLagoon features a cream white with soft pearlescent sheen and a semi-matte turquoise which is slightly more matte than the cream white. It is a true turquoise with no trace of yellow/green shimmer. Both shades are nicely pigmented and last well.

It has become my gold standard for turquoise shades as it still remains one of the nicest I have ever seen.

Related Posts: (featuring two other lovely turquoise shades)

Maybelline Dream Mousse Eyecolor in Fabulous Turquoise

(my second turquoise eyeshadow)

Alexander McQueen for MAC: Eyeshadow in Haunting

(with a little more blue undertone)

Loving Dior

(my personal take on Dior)

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(part of the SUQQU spring/summer 2008
base makeup lineup)
(image from www.suqqu.com)

As SUQQU is one of the few Japanese brands available in the UK (in London’s Selfridges), I always look forward to all the new releases.

Following the spring color collection, released earlier in Japan and launching in the UK later, SUQQU will release the spring/summer base makeup collection on March 15th.

With many Japanese cosmetics brands, the spring/summer base makeup releases, mostly in March, tend to focus on sebum-controlling and maintaining a fresh complexion. On the other hand, the fall/winter lineups (launched around September) are more about combating dryness and creating a luminous look.

SUQQU’s base makeup collection for fall 2007 features a very delicately smooth and luxuriously velvety Powder Foundation Glow. It goes on beautifully, has a good coverage, and covers pores well, but it lacks the sebum-controlling ability. So it will be interesting to see what the new Powder Foundation Fresh can do.

The SUQQU spring/summer 2008 base makeup lineup includes:

Powder Foundation Fresh: 6 shades, 11g, SPF 27 PA++

Liquid Foundation Aqua: 6 shades, 24ml, SPF 26 PA++

Face Protector N (daytime sunscreen): 30g, SPF 30 PA+++

I am expecting these to be launched in the UK in April, and I look forward to testing all the items, especially Powder Foundation Fresh. If it has all the merits of Powder Foundation Glow plus a decent shine-controlling ability, it could be an all-round winner for me!

Related Posts:

Loving SUQQU
(my personal take on SUQQU)

Anna Sui spring/summer 2008 base makeup collection
(featuring a cute loose powder compact)

Kanebo Coffret D’Or spring/summer 2008 base makeup collection
(More loose powder for me to try?)

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(Albion Eprise Water Face Color in 100)

Before talking about my first ever Albion purchase, I’d like to briefly mention the brand itself.

Albion is one of the largest cosmetics brands in Japan. I have also occasionally come across passing mentions of Albion as a brand favored by the Japanese royalty. Few can really be sure of this, but it is true that Albion has always had a very upmarket image. [The Albion website is for information only and doesn’t offer on-line ordering.]

Albion’s most popular products are mainly skincare and foundation items. The Essential Skin Conditioner and Exage powder foundations are almost permanent fixtures on most best-selling and magazine readers’ favorite product lists.

One unique aspect of all Albion’s various skincare ranges is a creamy skin-softening emulsion that is applied in circular motion with a cotton pad before the toner and the moisturizer. The Albion sales assistants often remind customers that this moisturizer-like emulsion is not a moisturizer and that it is used to help the absorption of all the subsequent skincare products.

I have tried samples from Albion’s skincare routines but I personally didn’t enjoy using the skin-softening emulsions. They felt quite filmy on the skin and I didn’t feel like using any other product afterwards. Plus the circular motion during the application left my skin slightly red, not to mention that most of them had alcohol. (So do many of the toners.) But I am aware that some people swear by Albion’s unique skincare routines and can’t imagine using anything else.

So, with Albion, their makeup ranges are much more suitable for me to get a taste of the brand. I had long been interested in trying out Eprise, one of Albion’s makeup ranges. (Albion’s website is completely in Flash, so do click on the Albion link above to find the Eprise line.) As someone that loves blushers, when I saw Water Face Color from the spring 2008 collection, I almost instantly decided that this would be my first-ever Albion purchase.

(Eprise Water Face Color)
(image from www.albion.co.jp)

This item still features alcohol, which is third on the ingredient list (after water and cyclomethicone (a kind of silicone) and before talc). But, since this is applied after my toner and daytime mosturizer/sunscreen (occasionally after a makeup base and/or a liquid foundation as well), it doesn’t irritate my skin.

The bottle is shaken before application. The blusher liquid has a watery consistency and glides with ease. (But this is not a cheek stain and has a slightly milkier consistency than a typical water-based cheek stain.) It is very easy to blend and layers well for more intensity. The finish is softly luminous and non-greasy, without any visible shimmer. After the blending is done, it almost feels as if the color came from within the skin.

#100 is quite a natural pink for me. It has a bouncy feel but doesn’t make my cheeks look overly flushed.

Another aspect that impresses me is that the color is very long-lasting. I usually use a powder foundation so this liquid blusher would go underneath it. There were twice when I had it on for about 12 hours, and the fading was very minimal and barely noticeable. I was initially slightly worried that, like a couple of cheek/lip staining items I tested, the color wouldn’t easily come off with a cleanser, but it came off swiftly and effortlessly with my RMK Cleansing Oil.

Overall, this is a very good blusher for me. A little goes a long way, so this 10ml liquid blusher will last a long time and create a lot of long-lasting rosy cheeks. I have a feeling that it won’t be long before I am interested in trying another makeup item from Albion.

Related Posts:

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose
(one of my absolute favorites)

Boots No. 7 Cheek Colours
(home favorites)


Budget Princess: Majolica Majorca
(featuring two blushers from the line)

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Shiseido Hair & Makeup Creation 2008 – 10 Minds

by PJ on Monday, February 18, 2008

in -Shiseido, makeup

Later this month in Tokyo, the Shiseido Beauty Creation Institute will unveil Shiseido Hair & Makeup Creation – 10 Minds, a photographic showcase of editorial creations by 10 Japanese hair & makeup artists.

You can follow the link above for a preview of the works.

Have a look, and enjoy!

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