makeup

(The fest continues…)

(continued from yesterday)

Today, I bring you the Raycious cases from 2004 through to today.

The Raycious 2004 case has dynamic zig-zag patterns:

(Raycious 2004, 5th)

The Raycious 2005 case is more slender and wider, with bubble details. I really like this one.

(Raycious 2005, 6th)

Raycious brought out an interesting case in 2006. The color is the lightest of all the Raycious cases so far. It is also the thickest because it has to accommodate three pieces of mirrors.

(Raycious 2006, 7th)

Let’s open it up and have a look:

(It is like a mini dresser…)

A three-way mirror powder case is obviously not a necessity, but it is fun to use. Also, this design goes with the 7th-generation Raycious foundation for 2006, named Perfect Angle Powder. It claims to enhance the definition of facial contour. I guess you have all the mirrors to appreciate the new you!

We are back to one piece of mirror for the current Raycious 2007, Glamorous Skin Powder. The mirror is fitted almost right along the rims of the lid and is larger than most other mirrors in the previous cases.

(Raycious 2007, 8th)

In between the releases of the annual cases, Raycious sometimes brings out limited-edition ones. I don’t usually collect them, but I decided to go for this one earlier this year:

(Raycious 2007 limited-edition case)
Also, Haru over on Rouge Deluxe featues the latest limited-edition case. It is quite a bold design, using my favorite color.

These are all the cases I have from the powder foundations throughout the years so far. (When a new case is released, the previous one will go off the shelves. So I think it will be quite difficult to track down the older editions. In a way, all these cases are limited editions…)

Apart from releasing a new powder foundation each spring, Raycious also brings out new liquid foundations in fall. It also carries various primers, concealers, loose powders and pressed powders. I have several of Raycious pressed powders and a loose powder, and I will feature them in the near future!

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(Raycious Case Assembly)

I have talked about why I love Raycious foundations in an earlier post, so I won’t be going there today. (But mainly, it features fine blue-based particles that even out sallowness and redness to make skin bright and alive.)

Today it is all about all the cases since Raycious was launched in 2000. Each year, the foundation formulation changes slightly, and so does the case design.

I have been collecting these cases throughout the years. (I don’t have all the different foundations. The refills fit all the cases apart from the very first edition.)

Here we go!

The 1st-generation Raycious was launched in 2000. It is probably still the best-selling edition to date. This simple case is also my favorite. I also love this shade of blue. (You can see the difference above in the photo.) All the lines are slightly curved. Very subtly elegant. (This is the only Raycious case for a round refill, which, by the way, fits Anna Sui foundation cases as well.)

(Raycious 2000)
Riding on the success of the original Raycious, the 2nd-generation was launched in 2001.
(Raycious 2001)

It has a very reflective sheet in the lid. It is very shiny and colorful when I play it around the light:


The back of the lid can be opened:


I remember this sheet was given to purchasing customers in a very limited period of time:


This pattern was downloaded from the Sofina website in 2001:


You can put anything in the lid. For example, now I am doing some shameless self-promotion:


Onto 2002…the case has a minimal look:

(Raycious 2002)

Cell phone charms can be attached to the back:



The Raycious 2003 case is gadget-free and features soothing patterns:

(Raycious 2003)
It is quite a cutie!

Tomorrow I’ll come back with the ones from 2004 to 2007. You will have a closer look at the one with a three-way mirror. See you then!!

(See the cases from 2004 to 2007!)

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Some distinctive trends in the fall 2007 makeup releases:

– olive green / grey eyeshadows
– intense lip colors

– retro Audrey Hepburn look

Which trend are you going to experiment with this fall?

—Grey Areas—————

In fashion, grey has been hailed as The New Black for a while. I am surprised that it didn’t trickle down to makeup earlier. This fall, grey eyeshadows will be big, among all the neutral tones.

One palette that epitomizes this trend is Shiseido Clé de Peau‘s Ombres Couleurs Quadri palette in 114 (seen below):

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p. 152-153)

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p.152)

Also, Dior‘s 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in 060 Silver Goddess features an array of grey hues along with a sensual light blue.

Other servings of grey eyeshadows:

-Shiseido Maquillage: Sparkle Contrast Eyes 2 GY851

-Majolica Majorca: Shadow Customize BK922
-Kate: Gradical Eyes S BK-1
-Integrate: Live Fix Eyes GY812
SUQQU: Blend Eyeshadow 04

In a way, grey (especially in metallic finishes) is simply a darker silver. The look reminds me of an old-school silver-screen goddess. Very nostalgic and glamorous.

—Green with Envy—————

Another trendy color this season is olive green. Paired with pink, olive green is featured in Lush & Lovely, Chanel fall 2007 makeup collection, as it appears in the latest eyeshadow palettes: Garden Party (Les 4 Ombres Quadra) and Lotus-Cactus (Irréelle Duo).

(photo: from Chanel
at www.bergdorfgoodman.com)

Also, YSL fall 2007 makeup collection features olive green eyeshadows in a couple of the new Ombres Duo Lumières palettes.

In Japanese cosmetics, Cosme Decorte’s new line, Magie Deco, uses pink and olive green in the opposite way, with olive green above the eyes and pink along the lower lash line:

(Magie Deco ad, backcover of makeup booklet,
Biteki September 2007)

Apart from Magie Deco, olive green eyeshadows are also used in:

Kate‘s fall 2007 TV ad (with Gradical Eyes S GN-1)
SUQQU‘s fall 2007 printed ad (with Blend Eyeshadow 01).

Olive green seems to be a relatively masculine color as an eyeshadow, which might be why it has been paired with pink to create a balanced look. But, worn alone, it can be very edgy.

—A La Audrey—————

Givenchy‘s fall 2007 collection, Camouflage Chic, pays tribute to the classic Givenchy muse, Audrey Hepburn. A search in Google Images comes out with photos of what I think is one of the most beautiful people ever, with clean, crisp, and defined eye makeup. Intense color fills between the lash line and the crease line and it is kept clean everywhere else. No smoky eyes here.

Givenchy’s latest Prismissime Eyes in 54 Cache Cache can get you this classic look:

(photo: from www.sephora.com)

Shiseido The Makeup‘s new Silky Eye Shadow Quad in Q9 Lunar Phases is based on the same trend.

Again, this is definitely a very retro look. I think “Less is more” is the key here. Don’t overdo it and keep it nice and simple.

—Strong Lips—————

What if you don’t want to pile on intense eye colors? You can channel the intensity to the lips. Keep the eye makeup fuss-free and choose a rich satiny (not glossy) lip shade. The cover of Biteki September 2007 shows how it’s done:

(cover of Biteki, September 2007)

It can be a wine red, berry red (as in the Chanel ad above), or a warm brownish red. With careful coordination, they can go with grey or olive green eyeshadows, as in Estee Lauder’s fall 2007 look:

(photo: from esteelauder.co.uk)


I quite like this look. Chic and timeless.

What other trends have you spotted?

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(pictured from left,
Luscious Cosmetics Crystal Nail Lacquer in Topanga
Lip Polish in Belize
Lip Delites Lip Plumper in Palm Beach)


Luscious Cosmetics features simple packaging with a girlie edge. The items are compact and easily portable. Very travel-friendly.

Lip Polish (5ml) takes up very little space in a makeup bag. Belize is a glossy nude with delicate shimmer. Great shade for this coming season.

Crystal Nail Lacquers, Luscious Cosmetics’ signature products, come with Swarovski crystals contained separately in a compartment within the cap. Topanga is a beautiful cranberry with ruby and diamond crystals.

Lip Delites Lip Plumper is an interesting one. According to the website, it is a lip plumper to be worn 1-2 times a day for 30 days to give lips up to 40% more volume. It is not the kind of lip gloss that stings. Instead, it claims to stimulate the production of collagen.

It is essentially a gloss that you wear on a daily basis to see a lip-plumping result. Personally, I don’t usually wear the same lip gloss (or any lip gloss) every day, and, since it has color, I can’t really wear it as an overnight treatment.

But, as a lip gloss alone, it is a fair one. Palm Beach is a sheer orange that looks more wet than glossy. It looks glittery in the tube but the glitters are barely noticeable when applied. Compared with Lip Polish, it is much less glossy and it doesn’t layer as well. It is simply a natural lip gloss that feels lightweight and moisturizing.

Luscious Cosmetics seems to feature quite a few dual-function products, from nail lacquers with Swarovski crystals to lip glosses with lip-pumping effects. (Their Luscious Blooms feature two coordinating shades for face and cheeks.) We’ll see what comes up next!

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(Clockwise from upper left:
Erth Minerals Foundation in 2.3

Eyeshadows in Fern, Night, and Snow

Bronzer in Glow,

Eyeshadows in Rose and Carbon )

More and more mineral makeup lines have been trying to grab a share of the market, apart from major players like Bare Escentuals. Erth Minerals (not “Earth”, to be clear…) is one of them.

Their website describes their foundations as matte and offering excellent coverage, which attracted my attention. After trying them out, I actually wouldn’t describe them as either. They are semi-matte and provide medium (on the sheer side) coverage. There is no obvious shimmer and the finish is all very natural.

For me personally, one drawback is the staying powder. On my oily skin, the foundation started to melt in about two hours (in the less-than-warm British summer). I would not recommend this for people with oily skin or with oily T-zone.

On the other hand, Moth Veil is a good finishing powder for me. Soft and silky, it mattifies my skin and conceals pores nicely (after my usual foundation). Only one shade is available, but I think it is translucent enough to suit most skin-tones.

Their eyeshadows work nicely on me too (I don’t have particularly oily eyelids). All the shades I’ve got are sheer and with multi-color sparkles. My favorites are Snow (pearly white), Rose (very pale pink), and Carbon (dark charcoal, can be doubled as an eyeliner). The sparkles make Snow and Carbon particularly beautiful, while Carbon is great for the smoky-eye look.

I need to point out that the eyeshadow in Night, which appears to be a pastel blue in the container (seen in the photo), looks almost completely grey when applied. Even though the website describes the shade as “deep blue”, it is just too much of an ashy grey to be called blue. This can make on-line ordering confusing.

Since it is also the case with von Natur Lip Shimmer in Sweet Violet (a rosy purple in the container, a brownish brick-red when applied), I wonder whether the blue pigment used in mineral makeup in general is simply not delivering. (I have never experienced this kind of color inconsistency with brands not marketed as mineral makeup.) If you have any similar experience, I would very much like to know about it.

On the whole, mineral makeup, with its simple composition, does not irritate my sensitive skin, but it takes much longer to apply. No surprise, it is the case with Erth Minerals. If you want your foundation to give you a good coverage and your colors to be vibrant, you might need to look elsewhere. But if you prefer your makeup to be sheer and natural (and with shimmer for the eyes), then Erth Minerals will be worth considering.

Related posts:
Von Natur Mineral Powder Foundation
Von Natur Mineral Color Makeup

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(Helena Rubinstein Lash Queen Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 26-27, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

We all know that beauty ads are often about visual impact. Pores are blurred, lines are erased, makeup is retouched, and hair is re-textured. Perfection is what we aspire to, and it is what they are presenting.

Last week, UK’s Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) found L’Oréal in breach of advertising rules after they admitted that, in their TV ad for Telescopic Mascara, Penelope Cruz wore false eyelashes. In their future ads, L’Oréal must include a statement in the ad if false lashes are used. Apart from this, L’Oréal will have to make it clear whether claims like “up to 60% longer lashes” refer to the appearance, not the actual length. (Read the full story in The Guardian.)

I wonder why ASA didn’t do this earlier, but I also wonder whether there is any point in doing it.

Have a look at a few more ads:

(Helena Rubinstein Surrealist Mascara ad,
p. 28-29, October 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Clinique Lash Power Mascara ad,
p. 92-93, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(L’Oréal Volume Shocking Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 84-85, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Notice that three of the four ads appear in the same issue.)

Obviously, there is a difference between stylized eyelashes above and false eyelashes that are meant to blend in with and enhance the real ones. But, in certain contexts, the difference is almost irrelevant. While I do believe in transparent advertising, I do think most of us consumers are (and should be) savvy enough to know what to take away from advertisements. Some ads are more visual than informational, and they are designed to appeal to our senses more than anything else.

Here is a spoof of the TV ad in a comedy sketch show (aired on BBC several months ago), which is very funny but makes a similar point.

One random thought: At least we can put on false eyelashes if we want to, whereas we can’t digitally enhance our image in others’ (or our) eyes……

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(pictured: Rimmel Underground Light Beam Lip Gloss
in #100 In the Mix)

My taste in lip glosses is quite extreme. At one end, I like glossy, glassy, shiny, and luxuriously syrupy lip glosses. At the other end, I go for the kind of healthy, natural, and moist sheen I get after a shower or after I eat a piece of juicy watermelon.


While it’s not difficult to find very syrupy lip glosses, I hadn’t really found any lip gloss that gave me that little touch of natural sheen…until I tried Rimmel Underground Light Bean Lip Gloss. (When it comes to lip balms, Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve excels in this.)

The one I have, #100 In the Mix, is a very sheer pale pink. It is not the color that attracts me. It is the finish. It is that only-slightly wet finish (not glossy or shiny) that I have been looking for. It doesn’t look (or feel) like I am putting anything on. The sheen seems to be from within the lips.

The gadgetry is worth a mention. There is a mirror on the side and a built-in LED light. A bit bizarre as you might think, the light can be as useful as you make it to be, especially on a night out.

(flaunting the beam)

(still showing off…)


If you like a thick lip gloss that layers and layers, this one is not for you. But if you like something ultra-natural, this Rimmel Underground lip gloss will probably be your pick of the day!

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I can’t take credit for this description of Kate, Kanebo‘s consistently successful drugstore line.

One reader, Tammy, left a comment under one of my posts on Lavshuca and asked about Kate. She described Kate as “Lavshuca’s edgier, darker sister“. (Both are Kanebo’s “daughters”.)

She couldn’t have put it any better!

But so far I have never bought anything from Kate. (I almost did for several times though.) Somehow the brand does not appeal to me. But, am I not edgy? Am I not dark enough for Kate??

Well, looking at my avatar….

.

(Well hello!)

…ummm……maybe not. (I do blush too easily!!)

Kate definitely has an edgier image (its slogan “No More Rules” sums it up), while Lavshuca is all very dreamy (yep that’s me). But Kate is also one of the most established and best-selling drugstore brands in Japan. It has a strong brand identity and has survived a lot of competition (against the new wave of drugstore brands such as Integrate, Kiss, Makemania and Love Clover).

You can see some of Kate’s TV commercials on YouTube to see how Kanebo is branding Kate.

Aside from the image, some of Kate’s popular items include:

Dual Carat eyeshadow duos
Deep Eyes N eyeshadow palettes
Line Spicy eyeshadow palettes
Glam Trick Eyes eyeshadow palettes
Super Sharp Liner eyeliners

When it comes to continuously releasing attention-grabbing items, I also have to hand it to Kate. The wide array of eyeshadow palettes and the recent cream eyeliner and loose eyeshadow have indeed given Kate that little extra (and almost semi-professional) edge. (I guess this is what I mean by product designs under one of my Anna Sui posts.)

So, have you tried anything from Kate? And what’s your favorite? Let me know!

I can be convinced!

.

Updated on December 31st, 2012:

Finally I purchased my first ever Kate item, Gradical Eyes A in GD-1!

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Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy will be one of the latest drugstore lines in Japan. (The logo is instantly recognizable as the sister brand of Integrate.)

Launched in Japan on August 21st, Integrate Gracy is targeted mainly at consumers in their 50’s, with understated packaging and timeless, elegant, and wearable colors. Also, all the products are fragrance-free, which can be a huge plus for people across all ages.

Integrate Gracy is not the first drugstore brand in Japan to specifically appeal to a more mature clientèle. Kanebo’s Evita (skincare and foundation) and Media (foundation and color makeup) are two examples. Now it’s Shiseido’s turn to add a new player.

The packaging is predominantly black and the overall look reminds me of Media and another of Shiseido’s drugstore lines, Selfit. I actually slightly prefer Integrate Gracy’s packaging to Integrate’s, which I think is painfully plain. (The case of Integrate Gracy’s loose powder looks simple and elegant.)

The line-up is vast and is actually larger than Integrate (launched in August 2006, targeting consumers in their 20’s and 30’s). It features a full range of foundation products, which Integrate does not have at the moment. It includes cream/liquid/powder foundation, primers, concealer, and loose/pressed powder. I think it is quite exciting.

The color makeup includes lipsticks, lip liners, blushers, eyeshadows, eyeliners, brow pencils, mascaras, and nail colors.

The target audience is very specific. But good prices and good quality are definitely for everyone!!

Source: Nikki Net

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(pictured: my Anna Sui items)

Anna Sui, the mother of dreamy packaging and the Gothic princess of the cosmetics land, will release its fall 2007 collection in August. You’ll find:

NEW Sui Rouge V (8 shades)
NEW Liquid Eye Color (10 shades)
NEW Mini Rouge (with chain and mirror, 10 shades)
NEW Pressed Powder M (with marble patterns, 3 shades, limited editions)
Nail Color (5 new shades, limited editions)

The Mini Rouge, with rose decorative details, looks very cute and reminds me of one of my favorite Anna Sui items, the discontinued Ring Rouge (a lip color housed in a ring, see lower left on the photo above).

Even though the quality of Anna Sui’s products have remain consistent, the past several collections looked lackluster and tiresome and lacked interesting ideas. (I also don’t like the fact that it left the UK several years ago!) This collection looks better, but I would still love to see more ingenious and innovative product designs and to see Anna Sui reclaim her edgy identity.

Related Post: Loving Japanese Brand (2-7): Anna Sui

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