skincare

Skincare Review: Elizabeth Arden Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum

by PJ on Thursday, March 25, 2010

in -Elizabeth Arden, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(image from Elizabeth Arden)

Produced by Allergan, Prevage is a premium line of anti-aging skincare products sold via Elizabeth Arden. Today I will be featuring one of the latest additions to the line, Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum.

According to Allergan and Elizabeth Arden, the star ingredient of the serum (and of the whole Prevage line) is the antioxidant Idebenone (listed as hydroxydecyl ubiquinoyl dipalmitoyl glycerate in the ingredient list). Also, according to Elizabeth Arden, it is superior to some other antioxidants such as vitamin C, vitamin E, and coenzyme Q10 and is the most effective antioxidant.

On the other hand, according to Paula Begoun’s review of Prevage Day Ultra Protection Anti-Aging Moisturizer SPF 30, idebenone is a good antioxidant but it is not the best or the most potent. (Also, see the entry on idebenone in Paula Begoun’s Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary.)

Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum has a lightweight lotion consistency. (It does not have the kind of consistency that many skincare serums have.) It is very spreadable and it feels quite hydrating on the skin. Some of the moisturizing ingredients in this product are butylene glycol, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, glycerin, sodium hyaluronate, caprylyl glycol, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil, propylene glycol, sodium PCA, trehalose, urea, and phospholipids.

Apart from Idebenone, this product also contains antioxidants such as ergothioneine and dimethylmethoxy chromanol.

The product is alcohol-free.

Overall, this is a decently formulated product with skin-benefiting ingredients. (It is up to individual consumers to decide whether it is worth 155 USD (its retail price in the US).) If you have combination or oily skin, it can be used as a lightweight moisturizer (instead of a serum). If you have normal, dry, or very dry skin, then it can be used as a serum (underneath a moisturizer).

(In the US, Prevage Face Advanced Anti-Aging Serum has replaced Prevage Anti-Aging Treatment. It will be released in the UK in April.)

(The product featured in this article is provided by Elizabeth Arden.)

Elizabeth Arden Intervene Radiance Serum & Night Cream

Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Gentle Line Smoothing Exfoliator

Can’t Live Without: Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream

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Skincare Review: Elemis Pro-Radiance Cream Cleanser

by PJ on Friday, February 5, 2010

in -Elemis, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(image from www.elemis.com)

Launched this year, Pro-Radiance Cream Cleanser is one of the latest products from Elemis.

The cleanser has a very creamy texture and is applied onto dry skin. It is then left for one minute and removed with the cotton mitt (which comes with the cleanser) and warm water. (The cotton mitt also gently exfoliates the skin while removing the cleanser.)

(The Elemis website mentions that warm water can be mixed with the product before application. I think this way of applying the product may suit those who think it is too densely creamy.)

The product contains quite a few ingredients that are in many typical moisturizers, such as caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, cetearyl alcohol, and beeswax. It is mainly these emollients that help dissolve makeup.

The cleanser removes light makeup effectively. However, it is not able to remove waterproof mascara. (I tested it on Maybelline’s Volum’ Express Waterproof, and it was not able to remove it.)

After removing the cleanser with the cotton mitt and warm water, I find that there is an emollient film on the skin, which would not fare well with my oily skin. (I use a face wash to wash off the residue.)

Because of the occlusive emollients that this cleanser contains, I would suggest this cleanser to those with dry or very dry skin. Also, because of the exfoliating action of the cotton mitt, I would suggest this cleanser to those whose skin is not particularly sensitive and can cope with gentle daily exfoliation. (The cleanser itself is relatively gentle. It is the exfoliating action of the cotton mitt that may not appeal to those with sensitive skin.)

(During the launch period, Pro-Radiance Cream Cleanser and the cotton mitt come with a 15ml Pro-Collagen Marine Cream (reviewed earlier here).)

(The product featured in this review is provided by Elemis.)

Posts (on other facial-cleansing products):

Can’t Live Without: RMK Cleansing Oil

My Current Staple: Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash

L’Oréal De-maq Expert Velvet Creme Wash Expert Make-up Remover

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Skincare Review: Pond’s Dry Skin Cream & Hydro-Nourishing Cream

by PJ on Wednesday, January 20, 2010

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from Pond’s)

Last week I featured two body moisturizers from Neutrogena that would be suitable for winter. Today I will be looking into two facial moisturizers from Pond’s.

Pond’s Hydro-Nourishing Cream has a light-cream consistency. The consistency of the cream is probably predominantly shaped by propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate (second on the ingredient list), which, according to Paula Begoun, is an emollient with a gel texture and is used in many lightweight moisturizers.

Some of the other moisturizing ingredients in this product are paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, cetyl alcohol, stearic acid, glycerin, oenothera biennis oil (evening primrose oil, with anti-inflammatory properties), lecithin, and glyceryl strearate.

The product also includes tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), tocopherol (vitamin E), ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin C), and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), all of which are anti-oxidants.

This product does not contain alcohol. Those who are sensitive to fragrance might want to know that It contains parfum and quite a few other scenting agents. (I do find that the scent of this product is slightly on the strong side.)

Compared with Hydro-Nourishing Cream, Dry Skin Cream is more emollient. One thing I have noticed is that when it is applied on damp/moist skin (after cleansing), it appears to almost float over the skin. Then it seems to switch positions with the water, as it sticks to the skin, leaving a layer of watery moistness on top of it. I am suspecting that this is due to the hydrophobic nature of the ingredients that this product contains, such as paraffinum liquidum, petrolatum, and paraffin/synthetic wax.

Some of the other moisturizing ingredients in this product are isopropyl palmitate, glycerin, stearic acid, persea gratissima oil (avocado oil, with anti-oxidant properties), glyceryl stearate, cetyl alcohol, and lecithin. The product also includes anti-oxidants (tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E) and tocopherol (vitamin E)).

Like Hydro-Nourishing Cream, it does not contain alcohol and it contains parfum and many other scenting agents. (I personally find that the fragrance in this product is more pleasant.)

Overall, both moisturizers are decent products with skin-benefiting ingredients, although some might not enjoy the occlusive feel of Dry Skin Cream. I think Hydro-Nourishing Cream will suit those with slightly dry skin and that Dry Skin Cream will suit those with dry skin.

(I am not opposed to mineral oil or petrolatum in skincare products. Mineral oil is unlikely to cause skin irritation, and petrolatum has anti-inflammatory and healing properties. But those with oily skin should avoid these occlusive emollients in skincare products, especially when they are towards the top of the ingredient lists.)

(The products featured in this article are provided by Pond’s.)

Daytime Moisturizer Update – Olay Complete Care Daily Sensitive UV Fluid SPF 15

Skincare Review: Nude Skincare

Skincare Review: Elizabeth Arden Intervene Radiance Serum & Night Cream

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Japanese Cosmetics Focus: Ettusais

by PJ on Friday, January 8, 2010

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Ettusais, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, skincare

(image from www.ettusais.co.jp)

It has been a while since I last added an article to the “Japanese Brand Profile” series, and today I am going to talk about Ettusais.

Ettusais was launched in 1991 and I believe it is still owned by Shiseido. The name of the brand comes from “Et tu sais?” (“And you know?”) in French. The brand includes skincare, bodycare, base makeup, and point makeup products. The Ettusais Homme sector features an extensive range of male grooming products.

One area that Ettusais focuses on is the skincare regime for those with acne-prone skin. Quite a few years ago, I purchased a trial set of basic skincare products for acne-prone skin. The set included a gel makeup remover, a face soap, a toner, and a moisturizer, and I later on purchased full-sized products of the makeup remover and the face soap.

(I don’t think I would be able to use the face soap now, since my skin is less acne-prone than how it used to be and I live in a generally cooler and drier climate. Most face soaps would be far too drying for me now.)

Ettusais’ current makeup remover designed for acne-prone skin is Medicated Acne Gentle Make Off, which is a cleansing oil. I have been using RMK’s Cleansing Oil for many years, and I am quite interested in seeing how well this one works.

(Medicated Acne Gentle Make Off)

Many of Ettusais’ base makeup products are also designed for those with acne-prone skin. Some of the products are claimed to be able to neutralize redness and to make the skin look smoother and more polished.

One item that I have tried is a yellow-toned concealer which is able to neutralize redness. It is applied on redness-prone areas such as the nose and the cheeks. The texture is a little bit too much on the thick side for me, but the coverage is natural and long-lasting. The current version is called Flat Design Color Changer (SPF 12, PA++).

(Flat Design Color Changer)

Ettusais’ point makeup range includes basic as well as vibrant colors. The packaging is simple and youthful. You can see Ettusais’ spring 2010 collection here.

(Ettusais Eye Colors)

Over the years, Ettusais seems to be doing steadily well. I like the fact that the brand didn’t reach success through glamorous ad campaigns or fancy packaging. Apart from the brand’s clear identity (skincare/makeup items for acne-prone skin), the reasonable pricing may be one of the reasons for the brand’s popularity. (Melty Touch Rouge, new for spring 2010, is priced at 1890 JPY (12.7 GBP/ 20.4 USD).)

(one of Ettusais’ retail points in Hong Kong)

According to Ettusais’ official website, apart from Japan, Ettusais is available in Hong Kong, Taiwan, Thailand, Singapore, and Malaysia. Ettusais’ Japanese official website offers on-line ordering but it is only available to customers in Japan.

Other posts in the “Japanese Brand Profile” series:

Mamew

Kanebo Freeplus

Sony Vecua

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Skincare Review: Korres Materia Herba

by PJ on Wednesday, December 30, 2009

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from www.korres.com)

Established in 1996 in Greece, Korres features skincare, bodycare, haircare, and makeup products. One of Korres’ latest ranges is Materia Herba, which currently includes nine Ecocert-certified organic skincare products. (There are two cleansers, five facial moisturizers, and two eye moisturizers.) Today I am highlighting two of the facial moisturizers.

Materia Herba Moisturising Cream for Oily to Combination Skin has a light consistency that spreads easily. Some of its ingredients that help moisturize the skin include glycerin, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetearyl alcohol, safflower seed oil, glyceryl stearate, sunflower seed oil, and sesame seed oil.

The product does not contain mineral oil, silicones, or parabens. It contains fragrance.

One major drawback of this product is the large amount of alcohol it contains. (It is second on the ingredient list.) It makes the product potentially drying for most skin types.

Materia Herba Anti-Ageing Cream for Oily to Combination Skin has a somewhat similar formulation, but it does not contain alcohol. (The product still contains benzyl alcohol, which can be drying for some people. But it is not towards the very top of the ingredient list (8th on the ingredient list).)

Some of the moisturizing ingredients include sunflower seed oil, caprylic/capric triglyceride, glycerin, jojoba seed oil, squalane, glyceryl stearate, and soybean oil.

The product has a similar consistency to that of the Moisturising Cream for Oily to Combination Skin reviewed above. Even though the product has a light texture, sunflower seed oil (an occlusive moisturizing agent) is second on the ingredient list. It also contains other occlusive moisturizing ingredients such as jojoba seed oil, squalene and soybean oil. Overall, I think the product might be too occlusive for those with oily, combination, or normal-to-oily skin.

The product does not contain mineral oil, silicones, or parabens. It contains fragrance.

(The products featured in this article are provided by Korres.)

Chanel Ultra Correction Lift & Line Repair

Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream & Oxygenating Night Cream

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Skincare Review: Clinique Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer SPF20

by PJ on Saturday, December 5, 2009

in -Clinique, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(image from www.clinique.co.uk)

Clinique‘s Even Better range is one of the brand’s latest ranges of skincare and foundation products. It aims to help create a clearer, brighter and more even skin tone. Today I am reviewing Even Better Skin Tone Correcting Moisturizer SPF 20.

The moisturizer has a creamy consistency that is not overly thick, and it feels quite emollient on the skin. (It is more emollient than Clinique’s Youth Surge SPF 15 that I reviewed earlier.) Some of its moisturizing ingredients include octyldodecyl neopentanoate, myristyl myristate, and butylene glycol.

It contains butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone) as the anti-UVA ingredient. This makes it a suitable moisturizer to be used for daytime.

It features a nice array skin-benefiting ingredients, which are mostly antioxidants. They include (in the order which they are listed on the ingredient list) ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C), betula alba (birch) bark extract, scutellaria baicalensis (skullcap) root extract, curcuma longa (turmeric) root extract, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin E), linoleic acid, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin C). Skullcap root extract and linoleic acid also have anti-inflammatory properties.

It also contains cucumis sativus (cucumber) extract (listed right after betula alba (birch) root extract). According to Paula Begoun, the lutein component in cucumber “can have an effect on suppressing melanogenesis, or the process that leads to skin discolorations”. (Please refer to this link on Paula Begoun’s website for more information.)

There is very little silicone in this product, which might please those who are looking for moisturizers that don’t contain silicones as major ingredients.

It doesn’t contain alcohol, parabens, or fragrance. One ingredient that may be a skin-irritant is sodium sulfite. (But It is further down on the ingredient list.)

Overall, this is a competent daytime moisturizer. It would be too emollient for most people with oily skin, and it should suit those with normal-to-dry or dry skin.

(The product featured in this review is provided by Clinique.)

Daytime Moisturizer Update: Olay Complete Care

Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream

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Skincare Review: RoC Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion

by PJ on Sunday, October 25, 2009

in -RoC, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from RoC)

Many of you who read my blog probably already know my view on moisturizers which carry anti-aging (or anti-wrinkle) claims. (You can see some of my related posts here.) In almost all cases, I review them simply as moisturizers just like any other moisturizer (because this is simply what they are). Today, I am reviewing two of the latest products from RoC.

Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Intensive Anti-Wrinkle Serum (pictured above)

This is quite a heavily silicone-based serum that has a slightly thick consistency. On the ingredient list, after water, the next five ingredients are all silicones.

Some of the emollients it contains are stearyl heptanoate, strearyl caprylate, caprylyl glycol, squalane, and hyaluronic acid. It also contains retinol, which, according to Paula Begoun, is a cell-communicating agent (which is able to work at the cellular level) and an antioxidant. It is not easy to say whether there is enough retinol in this product to really bring significant benefits to the skin, but, at least, for the amount that this product does have, RoC tries to keep its efficacy by packaging the product in a opaque container with a pump dispenser. (Retinol can lose its efficacy when it is in contact with air or sunlight.)

The product is alcohol-free and paraben-free.

As with most other silicone-based serums, it leaves a silky finish on the skin. The silicones that it contains can temporarily make the skin look smoother and more even. Personally, I think it feels a little too filmy on the skin.

Retin-Ox Wrinkle Correxion Regenerating Anti-Wrinkle Cream

This is a relatively light-weight nighttime moisturizer that has a lighter consistency than that of the serum reviewed above. Also, it contains less silicone, and the finish is less filmy.

Some of its moisturizing ingredients are glycerin, stearyl alcohol, cetearyl alcohol, butylene glycol, and hyaluronic acid. Like the serum, this product contains retinol, and the description of the product above regarding retinol applies here. Again, the opaque tube with a pump dispenser is an ideal packaging in terms of the attempt to preserve the efficacy of retinol and other skin-benefiting ingredients.

I feel that the texture and emolliency of this product do suit my Type-4 skin (oily but dry underneath). It moisturizes my skin effectively and the skin feels smooth and supple (not filmy or greasy). I think one of the reasons for this ideal level of emolliency for my particular skin type is that the product doesn’t contain many occlusive moisturizing ingredients, such as mineral oil, shea butter and other plant oils (like jojoba oil, sesame oil, and avocado oil). Even though these non-fragrant occlusive emollients are generally good for the skin and are unlikely to cause skin irritation, skin that tends to get oily doesn’t really need too much of occlusive emolliency.

The product is alcohol-free.

Overall, these two products are well-formulated and well-packaged. The serum should particularly suit those with normal or normal-to-dry skin, while the night cream should suit those with normal, normal-to-dry or normal-to-oily skin.

(The products featured in this review are provided by RoC.)

RoC Hydra+ Bio Active Anti-Oxidant Moisturising Cream SPF 15

Amatokin Emulsion for the Face

Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate

Olay Regenerist Daily Regenerating Serum

Elemis Pro-Collagen Marine Cream & Oxygenating Night Cream

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Skincare Review: Chanel Ultra Correction Lift & Line Repair

by PJ on Friday, October 9, 2009

in -Chanel, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(images from www.chanel.com)

Chanel currently features a variety of skincare ranges with anti-aging claims: Beauté Initiale, Ultra Correction Line Repair, Ultra Correction Lift and Sublimage. Today I am reviewing products from the Ultra Correction Lift and Ultra Correction Line Repair ranges.

Ultra Correction Lift Lifting Firming Day Cream SPF 15 (pictured above)

Some of the main moisturizing ingredients in this product are glycerin, glyceryl stearate, shea butter, cetyl alcohol (fatty acid/ emollient), caprylic/capric triglyceride and jojoba esters. The product also contains canola oil, which, according to Paula Begoun, has barrier repair and anti-inflammatory properties.

The cream has a densely creamy texture and feels very emollient on the skin. It is certainly too emollient for those with combination or oily skin, but for those with dry or very dry skin, it can potentially be an effective daytime moisturizer. (It is too emollient for my facial skin, which can get quite oily. I have been testing it on my neck, which is quite dry, and it leaves my neck supple and moisturized without feeling greasy.)

This product is alcohol-free. The anti-UVA ingredient it uses is butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (avobenzone).

Ultra Correction Line Repair Anti-Wrinkle Day Fluid SPF 15

Compared with the Ultra Correction Lift day cream reviewed above, this product has considerably more silicones, which help create a smoother appearance for the skin. Some of the moisturizing ingredients in this product are glycerin, pentylene glycol, cetyl stearate and butylene glycol.

Like the Ultra Correction Lift day cream, this product also contains butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane to protect against UVA rays.

It has a creamy lotion consistency and a silky finish. It contains alcohol, which is fifth on the ingredient list. It could create a subtly tightening effect and may temporarily help reduce the appearance of wrinkles to some extent, but it may also be a skin irritant for some people. Without alcohol, this moisturizer could suit those with normal, slightly dry or slightly oily skin.

(The products featured in this review are provided by Chanel.)

Chanel Holiday 2009 Makeup Collection

Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate

Clinique Youth Surge SPF 15

Olay Complete Care Daily Sensitive UV Fluid SPF 15

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Skincare Review: Elizabeth Arden Ceramide Plump Perfect Gentle Line Smoothing Exfoliator

by PJ on Sunday, September 6, 2009

in -Elizabeth Arden, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(image from Elizabeth Arden)

Elizabeth Arden‘s Ceramide line is certainly one of the brand’s most noted ranges. The Plump Perfect Gentle Line Smoothing Exfoliator is among the range’s latest products. It is claimed to give skin a gentle deep cleansing and to leave the skin smoother and plumper.

The product uses polyethylene as the exfoliating agent. When finely ground, this synthetic ingredient is often used in facial/body scrubs. The base of the scrub (which holds the exfoliating agent) is very emollient, as coconut oil and shea butter are second and third on the ingredient list. Not surprisingly, the scrub has a rich and creamy texture.

I feel that this is quite a heavy-duty facial scrub, as the base is densely filled with the polyethylene beads. The scrub doesn’t feel harsh on the skin, but the exfoliating beads are definitely working very hard. The scrub does leave the skin polished and conditioned, and it rinses well enough so that it doesn’t leave the skin filmy. However, personally, for my oily skin, I prefer facial scrubs with a less emollient base.

Overall, I would recommend this product to those with dry skin. It is able to create a smoother appearance for the skin while the occlusive emollients are able to condition the skin. For those with oily skin, gel-based scrubs should be more ideal.

Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial

Chanel Huile Confort & Lotion Confort

Nude Skincare Cleansing Facial Oil

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Newsflash: Pola & Lunasol Fall 2009

by PJ on Friday, July 31, 2009

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, -Pola, 2009 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare

(image/info from www.nikkei.co.jp)

– On October 3rd, Japanese beauty brand Pola will be releasing a limited-edition item, B.A The Cream Edo Kiriko, to commemorate the brand’s 80th anniversary. (Edo Kiriko is a form of traditional Japanese glass craft.) The 30ml cream will retail for 207,900 JPY (about 2,196 USD). (B.A is Pola’s most top-end line, with a face wash (Wash B.A Extra) retailing for 12,600 JPY (about 133 USD).)

– If you are interested in swatches of the Star Shower Eyes palettes and Star Dust on Eyes from Lunasol’s fall 2009 collection, please take a look at this post on Taiwanese blogger Tingjp’s blog.

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