-Sofina

(Sofina Raycious Frosty Loose Powder (left)
and Ray Crush Powder (right))

As I mentioned previously, when Raycious didn’t release any new item for spring/summer 2008, I suspected that the line was going to be discontinued. When news about Sofina’s new base makeup line, Primavista, arrived last month, it was obvious the line would be Raycious’ successor.

As Sofina‘s webpage for Raycious has been updated with the official announcement that the sales of Raycious will be terminated on August 25th, I would like to take a look back at one of my favorite base makeup lines.

(This post is not meant to be a product review, since the items you see here (except Frosty Loose Powder, which I only have the case of) were released quite some time ago and are not sold anymore. Also, for hygiene reasons, I have not been using these items (apart from Ray Crush Powder).)

(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious, debuted in 2000, is the base makeup line of Sofina. (Raycious is not a brand in itself. It is one of Sofina’s two base makeup lines, alongside Finefit.) Looking back, I think Raycious was one of the reasons why I started to be drawn into Japanese cosmetics (particularly foundations) because the line clearly offered something that western brands hadn’t come up with. (
For more information on this (and on Sofina in general), please have a look at this previous post.)

One of Raycious’ best-selling products was the powder foundation, whose formula was updated every year (in spring). People seemed to either love it or hate it, and I wasn’t surprised. Raycious’ powder foundation didn’t try to please everyone, and I believe this was one of the reasons for its success. (I suppose when we try to please everyone, we please no one.)

(Glamorous Skin Powder, Raycious’ last powder foundation release,
along with a limited-edition pink case)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious’ powder foundation is generally a lot more suitable for people with oily skin or people living in a warm climate. While people with dry skin can find it dry and chalky, those with oily skin (like me) tend to find it effective in sebum control. What I also love about it is that the foundation shade doesn’t darken or turn dull overtime. It is one of the very few foundations that wear better and better for me throughout the day. (By the way, Raycious’ powder foundations are
meant to be applied dry and are not two-way foundations.)

The first few editions of the powder foundation are the ones I particularly love, as the finish of the later ones seems so luminous that it can look a little too glowy/shiny for me. However, their pressed powder and loose powder have constantly been part of my base makeup routine up until today (with all the extra refills I got). The Ray Crush Powder (seen above, on the right) was my sole favorite loose powder until I tried Lavshuca’s Face Powder (I now like both equally). The pressed powder does everything that a pressed powder should do in terms of gently mattifying the skin and diffusing the appearance of pores.

As I have alluded to, not all Raycious items are equally fantastic. For instance, people seem to complain that its liquid foundation (updated annually in fall) often lacks coverage.

One item I do also like is Stick Makeup, which is the kind of stick foundation that many major brands (both western and Japanese) were releasing one after another many years ago. The lovely cream-to-powder formula blends very easily and has a lovely matte and subtly luminous finish.

(great-looking skin in a stick)
On the other hand, Beads in Gels are not really for me. They are color-adjusting primers (available in soft green, blue and purple). The colored particles are crushed during the application to form a very subtle light-reflective pearlescence.
(They don’t really suit me…)


Unfortunately, they have quite a lot of alcohol. (This is fairly typical of Japanese primers.) I happened to get the one in blue (above the green one in the photo) in a gift with purchase (after I tried the green one), and I never opened it. It is still in the box in the unwrapped cellophane. It will probably always stay unopened in its “brand new in box” condition. A nice time-capsule candidate for the history of Japanese cosmetics, I suppose…

If you have also seen my Raycious foundation cases and pressed powder items, you have now seen pretty much all my Raycious collection…

Even though I think this is probably my last post on Raycious, I don’t think this is my last time mentioning the line. Various products from Raycious are among my favorite base makeup finds, and I am sure I will compare others with them in the future. In the meantime, let’s hope that Primavista will live up to the expectation of all the Raycious fans as well as surprise a few others!

Related Posts (my recent base makeup favorites):

ZA Two-Way Foundation

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

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(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

EST (owned by Kao) will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on August 23. The lineup will include:

Powder Makeup Visually Moist (6 shades, SPF 20, PA++)
Perfect Base Fresh Touch (SPF 15, PA ++)
Perfect Base Moist Touch (SPF 10, PA+)

The Fresh Touch primer is a liquid-type sebum-controlling primer, while the Moist Touch primer is cream-based and provides extra moisture for the skin.

All items are fragrance-free.

Also, the EST website has been updated to feature the fall 2008 point makeup collection.

Related Posts:

Capturing Your Emotional Beauty

(EST Brand Profile)

EST Fall 2008 Point Makeup Collection

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(Sofina Primavista Face Powder)
(image from i-voce2.com)

When Sofina Raycious did not release a spring/summer 2008 lineup, I thought it was obvious that this great base makeup line had been discontinued. (On the other hand, I am now able to say that I have the complete set of Raycious powder foundation cases since 1999 (the annual releases, not the limited-edition ones).)

I was wondering whether there would ever be a new base makeup line from Sofina, and now we have the answer. On September 1st in Japan, Primavista will officially join Aube (point makeup line) as well as all the skincare lines at Sofina counters.

The Primavista debut lineup includes:

Powder Foundation (7 shades, SPF15 PA++)



Cream Foundation (7 shades, SPF15 PA++)

Smooth Coat Base (SPF10 PA+)

Bright Up Base (SPF10 PA+)

Face Powder (seen above)

(all images from i-voce2.com)


For me, this is one of the most exciting base makeup releases in recent seasons. At the moment, the new items seem to be typical fall/winter releases, featuring products like cream foundation and loose powder. I am expecting the usual moisturizing properties and soft-focus finishes from some of these fall/winter items.

While I am very interested in the loose powder, I will be waiting to see if there is going to be a spring/summer powder foundation next year, which should supposedly be more sebum-absorbing and more suitable for my oily skin.)

You can see photos of the Primavista launch event here.

Related Posts:

Lavshuca Face Powder
(my loose powder favorite at the moment)


Loving Japanese Brands – Sofina

Can’t Live Without – Shiseido ZA Two-Way Foundation

ck Calvin Klein Mineral Based Loose Powder

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Update: EST Fall 2008 Makeup Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, June 25, 2008

in -Est, -Kao, -Sofina, 2008 Fall, makeup

My post on EST’s fall 2008 collection has been updated with an image of all the new Emotional Aura Eyes palettes and Advanced Lips. Have a look!

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(Gel & Shine Eyes)
(image from www.cosme.net)


Sofina Aube usually releases an early fall collection in June. This year, it will be released in Japan on June 14th, and it includes:

Gel & Shine Eyes (above, six shades, limited edition)

Rouge Purely Stay (10 new shades)

(image from www.cosme.net)

Dual Color Eyeliner (six shades, limited edition)

(image from www.cosme.net)

Coil & Comb Mascara (2 shades, water-proof)

(image from www.cosme.net)

The new Gel & Shine Eyes looks quite interesting. Each pot has a gel eyeshadow and a loose-powder eyeshadow in a coordinating shade. The gel eyeshadow is relatively sheer and provides a base for the sparkling loose-powder eyeshadow. I look forward to seeing the other four shades!

I will update this post when I have more information.

Updated on June 16, 2008:

Please check out this link for swatches!

More Upcoming Collections:

Coffret D’Or Early Fall 2008 Collection

Chanel Fall & Holiday 2008 Collections

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My posts on the EST, Magie Deco, and Cosme Decorte AQ summer 2008 collections have been updated to include additional images and information.

Have a look!

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(a tearful diva)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

A reader once asked me why, regardless of the generally consistent quality, certain Japanese makeup lines (under the same company) are more expensive than others. To summarize my answer for her, apart from the fact that price-points and target consumer groups define each other, more prestigious makeup lines tend to have a fuller philosophy behind their creations.

One prime example is Sofina EST.

Sofina‘s EST is not new. It has been a skincare line under Kao’s Sofina for many years, and it is Sofina’s most expensive line. In fall 2007, EST launched a full color makeup line, following the earlier debut of the base makeup range. (While, obviously, the brand name reminds people of the superlative suffix “-est”, Sofina also advocates that it is an acronym for “Essence of Sofina Technology”.)

The over-arching concept of EST’s color makeup is Emotional Beauty. As our faces are always displaying various feelings and emotions, EST attempts to use colors and finishes to enhance our day-to-day expressions of emotions. So, our beaming smiles look even more dazzling, our focused determination is even more infectious, and our sorrow melts the hardest of hearts.

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


I love EST’s recent ad images. They are beautifully and subtly compelling, with colors that enhance the facial features rather than overtake them. To embody the essence of the line, the model (April) displays a much wider range of emotions than what we usually see in makeup advertisements. The image on the top of this post is by far my favorite. As for the two below, I call them “despair & hope”:

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)

However, all this ethos will be hollow if it can’t translate to product designs. So how does EST carry out their promise?

One item that defines the line is Emotional Aura Pact. Essentially, this is a highlighter for the eye area. It includes four subtly different shades of various finishes and opaqueness, and each of them is used on a specific part of the eye area.

(Emotional Aura Pack)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


Apart from the eye area, this multi-purpose item can also be used around the lips to sculpt your pout. So, when you feel surprised, happy, curious, excited, inspired, or moved, this item is designed to capture your million faces and help them make a lasting impression.

Also, so far, I have come across good comments on Emotional Aura Eyes, the eye palette range:

(Emotional Aura Eyes palettes)
(image from www.kao.co.jp/est)


After the huge success of Kanebo’s Lunasol in the last couple of years, Kosé’s Magie Deco and Sofina’s EST were two of the major makeup launches in late 2007 that posed as rivals. Similarly priced and packaged with a sophisticated flair, they appeal to similar demographics. With a strong and distinctive concept behind it, Sofina EST’s development and evolution will be immensely interesting to chart and will serve as an indication of the future of Japanese cosmetics.

[Even though Sofina is available in Japan and several other countries in Asia, the EST line is currently only available in Japan as far as I know. The EST website is for information only and does not offer on-line ordering.]

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Lunasol
(my current favorite Japanese brand)

Brand Profile: SUQQU
(a reverse strategy that works)

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes
(replacing the beloved T’Estimo)

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(Loving Japanese makeup)

As a fan of Japanese cosmetics, apart from all the colorful products available, I am also interested in knowing more about the history behind the various brands and companies. So I was delighted to come across a time-line featuring the launches of many major Japanese cosmetics companies in Biteki‘s January 2008 issue. Let’s have a look:

1872 Shiseido

1887 Kao

1929 Pola

1936 Kanebo

1946 Kosé

1956 Albion

1959 Menard

1967 Shu Uemura

1972 DHC

1981 Fancl

1987 IPSA

1991 Ettusais

1995 AYURA

1996 Equipe (which now owns RMK and SUQQU)

(Biteki, January 2008, p. 102-125)

It is interesting that, like many western cosmetics brands, some of the recent major Japanese cosmetics companies in the last couple of decades have also been acquired by more established ones. For example, IPSA, Ettusais, and AYURA were acquired by Shiseido. Kanebo now owns Equipe, while Kosé owns Albion. Also, in early 2006, Kanebo was sold to Kao.

I will be equally interested in these slightly more corporate and behind-the-scene developments and in all the shiny new releases from these brands…

Related Posts:

All About Japanese Cosmetics

(consolidating my passion)

“Loving Japanese Brands” Series
(my favorite seven)

Japanese Brands in the UK
(featuring where to get them from outside the UK)

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(Sofina Aube Astral Rouge)

Sofina Aube Astral Rouge lip palette is among the first holiday items I have ever purchased, back in 2000. (Obviously I have not been using it for quite some time. But this very pretty item will always be among my permanent collection.)

(Sofina Aube’s original navy blue packaging)


Sofina Aube has gone through at least three major packaging overhauls, and the packaging of this palette reflects what Aube (Sofina’s color makeup line) used to look like around 2000, with a deep navy blue color scheme. (I do have to say I prefer the Aube packaging back in the “old” days…)

(loving the shades…and the star)


The palette includes four lip colors (wearable pink shades with various tones) and two lip glosses (a very sheer pink with minimal shimmer and a pearly white with more intense shimmer).

This palette does bring back memories of the occasions where I had some of these shades on. It is interesting that some of my makeup purchases punctuate the various phases in my life. I know it sounds slightly silly and overly sentimental, but I am sure you know what I mean.

I will bring you more of my past holiday items every now and then. But if you want more of them now, do stop by Musings of a Muse for some more past holiday delights.

Related Posts:

Holiday 2006 Items
(See what made the cut last year.)

Holiday 2007 Items
(See them at a glance!)

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(You can tell that I love my Japanese cosmetics…)


Most of you who read my blog certainly know that I have a passion for Japanese cosmetics. While I do try to keep a balance between western and Japanese cosmetics on my blog, I do think, for me, Japanese cosmetics items do better on my scoreboard in most areas.

If you would like to look through my posts related to Japanese cosmetics, I have made it a bit easier for you by adding the category All About Japanese Cosmetics on the sidebar (under “Read by Topics”). As of now, there are 96 posts under this category, and the number will certainly grow week by week.

Please enjoy!

Here are just a few highlights:

Loving Japanese Brands
(where I highlight 7 wonderful Japanese brands)

Japanese vs. Western…Who’s Winning?
(Which side are you on?)

If I Could Go to Japan RIGHT NOW
(I share my dream shopping list.)

A couple of the items featured in the photo above:

Kanebo T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes 03

Lavshuca Eye Color Select PK-1

More to come!!

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