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(pictured: my Jill Stuart stash)First of all, take a look at the visual ad for this collection. I have heard several people say that it is the best one for Jill Stuart cosmetics to date. It is certainly very soft, pretty, and feminine. (Please note that the link might not work after the Jill Stuart Fall 2007 collection comes out.)
It is not an extensive collection, but it has a bit of everything. The limited-edition eye palette is a new addition to the wonderful Brilliance Eyes collection. (It is one of the most sparkling eyeshadow palettes I have ever used. I’ve reviewed mine here.)
It also includes two Lip Lusters and two Jelly Eye Colors. There are also five nail colors and nail art stickers (both limited editions).
Instead of the bold and colorful tropical looks that many brands usually feature for summer, Jill Stuart goes for the ultra-gentle and breezy look for the steamy hot weather. With the beautiful packaging and luminous shades, they will sell!
Related posts:
Loving Japanese Brands (4 of 7): Jill Stuart
Jill Stuart Spring 2007 Eyeshadow Palette
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There are many different ways to categorize basic skin types, and different skincare brands have their systems. But it seems that, on the whole, especially for western brands, it is the familiar dry/normal/oily story.
However, I am never happy with it. It seems to totally disregard my own skin type.
A long time ago, I used to think I had oily skin. I used cleansers and toners designed for oily skin, and I looked for the most mattifying moisturizers. I also used exfoliators and deep-cleansing masques routinely. But the longer I used them, the oily my skin became. I was extremely confused.
Then, quite a few years ago, I heard people say they had “oily-dry” skin and I was intrigued. I looked into this and found a way to categorize skin types that I thought made much more sense.
The basic idea is that sebum secretion and surface water/moisture retention are two independent (but often cross-affecting) factors. Then we have four basic (not considering skin sensitivity) skincare types like this (I drew this myself, based on the skincare concept of IPSA, a leading cosmetics brand in Japan under Shiseido):
Types 1, 2, and 3 are pretty straightforward and are what we usually know about normal/dry/oily skin.
It is the Type 4 (oily-dry) that is the reason why I am writing this post. Many people with this type of skin think they have oily skin and are probably told so at cosmetics counters.
Under Type 4, the skin is oily because sebum secretion is compensating (or sometimes, over-compensating) the lack of water/moisture. This is a normal and very helpful coping mechanism (as opposed to Type 3 (dry skin), which relatively lacks this mechanism), but many people obviously don’t like having shiny faces and makeup melt-down. (In East Asia, people describe this skin type as “oily on the outside and dry on the inside“.)
In other words, under Type 4, the skin is oily because it is dry.
(Please note that Type 4 does not refer to what we usually know as “combination” skin. Type 4 refers to skin that appears oily all-over due to the lack of moisture underneath.)
People with oily-dry skin who don’t know it tend to be obsessed with deep-cleansing and mattifying their skin with harsh and drying products, but the only thing it does is to push everything to the extreme and make the skin drier and therefore oilier.
To take care of oily-dry skin, we need to see it as dry skin. In my own experience, when I use a light moisturizer, my skin feels dry after application and it gets oily and shiny very quickly. But with a slightly richer moisturizer, my skin feels comfortable and, more importantly, the skin doesn’t get nearly as oily.
The key, I think, is to use a moisturizer that is designed for normal or for dry skin (depending on how dry the skin actually is) with a relatively matte finish. For me, Lancome Hydra Zen and Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream work well on my oily-dry skin.
I personally feel that the common dry-normal-oily categorization of skin types is quite inadequate. As I said, IPSA is one of the brands that recognize oily-dry skin while Asian beauties with skin that is “oily on the outside and dry on the inside” are able to correctly identify their skin type and are therefore more able to take proper care of their skin.
For a few final words, the daily skin conditions, under each skin type, change with age, hormone, diet, stress level, weather, indoor heating, and many other factors. Your skincare routine has to be in keeping with the changes. Be sensitive, sensible, alert, and adaptive!
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I have written in my post about my daily skincare routine that Estee Lauder’s DayWear Plus for Oily Skin is the daytime moisturizer that I use. I have been using it for years and I have never thought about changing it.
But recently I have discovered Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid for Combination and Oily Skin (SPF 15). For me, it is one of the very few daytime moisturizers that are as good as DayWear Plus.
It has a slightly thicker consistency than DayWear Plus, but it spreads easily and absorbs well. It dries up to a semi-matte finish. Thanks to mica, it does impart a subtle glow, but it does not look shiny or greasy. It is also a good base for makeup. Most importantly, it does not irritate my sensitive skin and my skin feels properly moisturized.
It is about 14 US dollars (for 75ml) in the UK, so it is a great cheaper alternative for me. (DayWear Plus (50ml) is about 56 US dollars here, whereas it is 38 US dollars in America!)
It contains titanium dioxide and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as the anti-UVA ingredients. (Please check out my post on sunscreen basics to see why we need ingredients like these in a daytime moisturizer.)
There are a few drawbacks of this product. It contains benzyl alcohol and citrus nobilis (mandarin extract), which can be skin irritants. Benzyl alcohol is not among the major ingredients while citrus nobilis is a bit higher up on the ingredient list. But I have not had negative reactions to the product. Also, the packaging is not totally opaque. Skin-benefiting ingredients that are light-sensitive can lose their effect overtime in this kind of packaging. Maybe Olay should consider rectifying this.
By the way, I know that Olay carries different products in different countries (or it may package and name products differently), and I can’t find this particular product on the Olay US website. Maybe someone can let me know more about this.
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The annual Metropolitan Museum’s Costume Institute Gala is a celebration of fashion, couture, and fine tailoring. Whereas celebrities tend to stay with classic designs for award ceremonies like the Oscars, they can really explore their personal style in events like this.
Here are a few of my favorites:
Liv Tyler (in Calvin Klein)
I have said it before that the colors in the aquamarine-turquoise spectrum are some of my favorite shades. They are not the easiest to wear, but here Liv Tyler shows us how it is done. The simple shape of the dress is great for this color, and her red lips provide the perfect accent color.
Lucy Liu (in Zac Posen)
I love everything about this dress. The color is fantastic while the fitted cut and the ruffled tail elongate Lucy’s frame. Gold is the accent color here, and it is right for her to keep the makeup clean and fresh. She looks like a princess!
Iman (in Stella McCartney)
The androgynous look has been quite popular, but it can look either too over-done or lackluster. Iman does it right by incorporating feminine touches like the low-cut vest and the loose wavy hair. Chic and sophisticated, and not overly masculine.
Cameron Diaz (in Christian Dior)
I have to say Cameron Diaz doesn’t always get it right, but here I think she looks great. It is quite a flamboyant look (especially if you compare it with Lucy Liu’s dress of a similar color), but she is able to put it off. (Not a lot of people can carry off this look. I’d imagine Charlize Theron probably can, but not many else.) Her choice of big turquoise jewelry is just as daring, but everything works well together.
Jennifer Hudson (in Michael Kors)
Full-on glamor for Jennifer. It is much better than what she wore at the Oscars this year. Off-the-shoulder cut is always one of my personal favorite design features, and the metalic shine looks stunning on Jennifer.
Kate Moss (in Kate Moss for Topshop)
I am actually never a fan of Kate Moss, ever. I also think most pieces of her collection for Topshop are disappointingly average. But I will give it to her this time. This black dress is demure and elegant, and she wears it very well.
Here, makeup-wise, smoky eyes are still very in. But overall, a clean and minimal look is a natural and sensible choice, as it goes well with the larger-than-life couture pieces. Less is definitely more when it comes to makeup in this case!
Related site: Metropolitan Museum Costume Institute
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(pictured from top: DiorKiss 208 Mint Lemonade,There are all the usual lip gloss colors: red, pink, coral, plum and beige. But once in a while you see some seemingly wacky shades of yellow, green, and blue, and you might think “Why?”
This season, at least three major brands have come up with their versions of blue lip gloss. Dior has added a light blue shade into their DiorKiss range, while one of the limited-edition items in the Guerlain by Emilio Pucci collection is a sparkling blue lip gloss. Benefit has also come up with California Kissin’, another blue lip gloss.
On the Benefit website and various other places (like the American Vogue), blue-tinted lip glosses are claimed to be able to make teeth appear whiter. But I am not really convinced of this and that’s not the reason why I buy blue lip glosses.
First of all, I like blue lip glosses because I like all colors in the aquamarine-turquoise spectrum (as you might have seen in my A Splash of Color – Aqua Blue post). When I see blue-tinted lip glosses, I am instantly drawn to them and it is as if I could see tropical ocean in a tube. Love it.
Secondly, I do actually use them. What blue-tinted lip glosses do is that they subtly bounce/balance off the red in the lips and therefore give a beautiful transparency to the lips. So they are essentially a version of sheer lip glosses (your lips will NOT look blue). But because of the blue tint, the effect is sheerer than sheer. The lips appear see-through and jelly-like and, in most cases, more plumped. Again, love it.
Also, Kevyn Aucoin’s blue lip gloss (Liquid Cyber Lips in Alurabliss) is said to be able to add depth and dimension to the lips to make them look fuller. (It is basically the same idea in different words.) You can see the actual tube here.
(In a similar vein, the reason why brands like Shu Uemura has a pastel blue loose powder is that it gives a clear and transparent look to the face.)
Onto the blue lip glosses I have:
DiorKiss 198 Plum Tart:
This is a limited-edition item in spring 2005. It has small glitters of various colors. As with all DiorKiss lip glosses, it gives a really glassy and syrupy finish.
Guerlain by Emilio Pucci Lip Gloss 03 Sparkling Sea:
It has very sparse blue and green glitters and creates a wet sheen on the lips (not as glassy as DiorKiss). (Limited edition for summer 2007.)
DiorKiss 208 Mint Lemonade:
Again, very glassy and reflective. It has some subtle green shimmer. (Limited edition for summer 2007)
All in all, blue lip glosses are not bizarre. If you come across any of them, give it a go. Who knows…you might love it too!
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It is mascara galore today, as I feature an article by Livia Mercer, founder and editor of The Beauty Review, the number one on-line beauty and cosmetics magazine in Australia and New Zealand.
Trained and qualified as a beauty therapist, Livia is someone that is truly passionate about beauty. She has worked for several cosmetics companies and owned a hairdressing salon. She then founded and edits her own magazine to help consumers make informed decisions in shopping for beauty products, as she believes that more information and education about cosmetics is needed from an unbiased medium.
The thing I love the most about this magazine (apart from the free subscription) is the Product Reviews, where beauty products are reviewed by a panel of consumers each month. We get to see a good range of feedback of each product, which I think is very refreshing.
Now, reviewing some of the best mascaras around, take it away, Livia!
Mascaras are the most often purchased makeup product on the market. Considering you are supposed to replace your mascaras every three months chances are you will purchase over 250 (give or take a few) mascaras in your lifetime. Therefore cosmetic companies are desperately trying to come up with newer and better formulations to catch your eye so it is their mascara you will be buying next. I’m not complaining at all.
I love all the new textures, formulations, brushes and innovations that are being put into mascaras. It is just so hard to keep up with them all.
To help you in this regard we have bought together some of the latest and the best mascaras (according to us). If you have your own favourites, feel free to write to us and tell us why.
Christian Dior, Diorshow Blackout. Spectacular Volume Intense Black-Kohl. This mascara will give you the most powerful and intense black colour using kohl that has been used since the ancient times to intensify the eyes. It uses a derivative of Arabic gum, similar to that used to set the Egyptian hieroglyphics for eternity. This added to a Black fix complex ensures your Charcoal- like finish remains perfect throughout the day.
Max Factor Masterpiece Volume and Definition Mascara. The secret to this mascara lies in the design of the patented brush. It is made of thermo plastic, rather than nylon, so they are uniquely soft and flexible. This means they can conform to reach every last lash from root to tip. The brush design is exactly the right size to reach the base of the lashes. It has the flexibility to reach and define even smaller lashes, bottom lashes and those at the inner and outer corners of the eyes.
Yves Saint Laurent Everlong Mascara, the first mascara with two-way lengthening action. An instant make-up effect with the new generation brush that also uses plastic bristles and is so supple it allows you to perfectly separate the lashes while coating them from base to tip. Then it has a longer term treatment action, thanks to an innovative Lash Growth Booster complex that stimulates the growth of the lashes and protects them from drying out.
L’Oreal Telescopic Mascara. Once again a unique brush design. It is called a precision multi-comb and it is a four sided brush that initially takes some time to get used to but it really does give you a fantastic effect. The formulation contains extremely fine wax globules which creates a smooth film that stretches, allowing for a very smooth application. It also has a special polymer that helps the mascara to lengthen the lashes and also has Pro-Vitamin B5.
Napoleon Long Black Mascara. Once again the brush takes centre stage with this mascara. This is actually a bent wand applicator that makes it really easy to get to all your lashes. The formula of the mascara is also very good giving an intense black look to the lashes and it also contains lash conditioners such as allantoin, candellia wax and beeswax.
Avon Superfull Mascara. This mascara again leads with the new patented Clean Build Brush. It is a thermoplastic design that creates natural volume by separating and combing the lashes while delivering more mascara continuously from the base to the tip. The formulation of the mascara is called an anti-static building formula and it has a clump free delivery.
Couleur Caramel Mascara. For all those ladies who suffer with very sensitive eyes, now we have an 87% natural mascara. It is solvent-free, mainly composed of water, canuaba wax, shea butter and acacia resin. Comes in 4 colours and 2 brushes, one for short lashes and one for long.
(text and images from The Beauty Review, June 2007)
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The sun is shining and you are lying on the beach, busy being lazy.
But there’s a masquerade by the sea after sunset. You have your dazzling mask and all your powder and potion to bring out your radiance. All that’s left is to find that perfect floaty summer frock, maybe in blue as well……?
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Sofina Raycious: Glamorous Skin Powder
Lavshuca: Eye Color Select BU-1
Lavshuca: Eye Color BG-1
Dior: DiorKiss 198 Plum Tart
Dior: DiorKiss 208 Mint Lemonade
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Gerlain: Guerlain by Emilio Pucci Lip Gloss 03 Sparkling Sea
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Maybelline: Volume Express Waterproof
Fragrance
Anna Sui: Sui Dreams
Skincare
Lancome: Tonique Douceur
KissMe: Lip Care Menthol
Previous Splash of Color: New-Leaf Green
Even more Splashes of Colors to come!
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2 Rouge Allure lipsticks
2 Aqualumiere lipsticks
2 Glossimer lip glosses
2 Joues Contraste blushers
2 Ombre D’Eau liquid eyeshadows
2 single-color eyeshadows
1 4-color eyeshadow palette
There is also a new tinted bronzing gel.
Most of these new colors feature shades of beige, brown, and warm pink. I would prefer a more diverse selection of colors, but, nonetheless, it is definitely a very wearable collection.
The one product I will definitely be testing is the limited-edition Contraste Lumiere Multi-Colour Palette. It includes four lip colors and two eyeshadows. The rich warm hues look great for summer. (Plus, I always like a beautiful palette.)
In Asia, there is another version of the palette. The lip color shades are cooler and so are the eyeshadows (cool pink and lilac). I have to say I like this even more! The colors look soft and feminine, and I happen to have been very interested in lilac and pink eyeshadows these few months.
I think the Chanel Makeup Studio in London’s Harvey Nichols might have it very soon, as it often stocks items only available in Japan or in Asia. I’d definitely hope so!
[Edited on May 19 2007: I just learned that both Contraste Lumiere palettes (called Aquarelles and Mordorees) will be available in the UK.]
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In the beauty world, Calvin Klein is known for some timeless fragrances. But I will always remember the time when their makeup and skincare line was available in department stores.
The packaging, silvery and transparent, is minimal, sleek, and classic, which is consistent with the Calvin Klein style in fashion. Even though I do tend to favor ornate packaging (like Anna Sui and Paul & Joe), minimal packaging, when done well, is just as exquisite.
The colors seem very neutral, grown-up, and sophisticated (in the Bobbi-Brown kind of way, I suppose). No garish colors or ones that are too experimental. I used to think the colors were too mature. But that was many years ago (and time has certainly passed…).
Once in a while, when I sort out my cosmetics catalogs, I’d glance through these pages and wish I could still see the products in shops.
I know that some of these are still available on-line. But the line was discontinued several years ago and I can’t help but be concerned about the stock quality. My wild dream, though, would be for Calvin Klein to re-launch the whole cosmetics line!
If you have used any product from Calvin Klein cosmetics (makeup or skincare) before, please do drop a line and let me know about it.
More posts in the “Bring It Back!” series to come!
Edited on June 3, 2007:
First of all, thank all of you who left comments on this post. Also, it seems that Calvin Klein is indeed launching a new cosmetics line very soon. Read about it here. (My personal thanks go to Jeffrey, who wrote this post and brought my attention to it.) Although I personally think the packaging is not as good as it was, let’s hope that the quality stays the same!
Edited on September 27, 2007:
The new Calvin Klein cosmetics line has been launched in Hong Kong. Read about it and see photos here!
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Jill Stuart Story of Fragrances Collection for 2025 & 2026 (image from www.cosme.net)
