New Discovery: Elizabeth Arden’s 8 Hour Cream

by PJ on Wednesday, November 22, 2006

in -Elizabeth Arden, bodycare, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

I got a sample of this about a year ago. I tried it on the back of my hand and I felt it was too greasy even as a hand cream. I didn’t know what to use it for so I just put it away, and I kept wondering why so many people recommended it on magazines.

I thought of it a couple of days ago when my L’Occitane nail and cuticle cream was running out and when my Dior nail cream was no longer good enough for this cold weather. I have been putting it on before I went to bed for a couple of days and I am amazed with the result. My cuticles look moisturized despite the daily housework, and I think it might be even better than the L’Occitane one, which I have been using for the past two years.

I am seriously thinking about buying a full-size one (50ml) when the 5ml sample runs out. It costs 19 pounds in the UK, which I thought was fine. (It is cheaper than the 15-pound 30ml limited edition, in a small glass jar, which will be out soon.) However, I almost fell off my chair when I found out that it only costs $16 in the US. I am aware that American brands, like Clinique and Estee Lauder, are more expensive in EU, but not like this! It is more than doubled here!

But a 50ml “cuticle cream” for me will last for ages…so I will just have to get it for myself……

{ 2 comments }

Japanese beauty magazine: Biteki

by PJ on Monday, November 20, 2006

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare

(Biteki magazine, August 2007)

Biteki is one of the major beauty magazines in Japan. There are others, such as Voce and Maquia, but Biteki has always been my firm favorite.

The magazine was launched in May, 2001. I think I have almost every issue. Even here in the UK, I subscribe to it at JP-Books in Mitsukoshi Department Store London. I pay the airmail rate so the latest issue arrives about 5 days after it is in store in Japan. The service at JP-Books is absolutely wonderful.

Biteki is like Allure in America (there is no equivalent in the UK!!), but I have to say Biteki is much better. First of all, it is much more up-to-date. The regular feature “launch calendar” lists all the major launches in the upcoming month, and there are comments on some of these new products from readers who were asked to try them by the magazine.

Second of all, it is *way* more comprehensive (there’s simply no comparison). Every March, June, September, and December issue has a major feature (for at least 20 pages) of virtually all the new seasonal makeup products (usually around 1000 items, mostly with actual-size photos) by all the major brands (around 45 brands).

Biteki focuses specifically on skincare and makeup. There is very little fashion, or even perfume. That’s what I like about Biteki. With it, I know everything I need to know about what to expect in the beauty market and I can make very informed purchase choices.

As mentioned earlier, there is no equivalent to such kind of magazine in the UK. Compared with British people, Japanese people are much more into skincare and makeup. They want to know everything and they enjoy staying updated. British people are much more laid-back about this and they don’t do nearly as much research. Certainly a huge cultural difference. (I would probably put American consumers in the middle. Websites like MakeupAlley and most blogs about beauty products are US-based, while there are extremely few beauty blogs in the UK.)

I have shown many issues of Biteki to my local Dior sale assistant. She loved them and agreed with me that there should be a magazine just about cosmetics in the UK. I wonder when it is ever going to happen…

Updated on October 24, 2007:

Photo of the cover of Biteki magazine August 2007 is added above.

{ 12 comments }

Loving Japanese brands (5 of 7): Sofina

by PJ on Sunday, November 19, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Sofina, part of the Kao Group, is a major cosmetics brand (along with Shiseido, Kanebo, and Kose). It has an efficient and no-nonsense concept of skincare and makeup with a sense of fun and enjoyment. It mostly appeals to the 20-something generation.

One of the two Sofina’s foundation lines, Raycious, is probably more popular than the skincare and the color makeup lines. The debut of the 1st-generation Raycious powder foundation in 2000 was a sensation. It was said to have sold 1 million in its first year in Japan.

The innovation of Raycious lies in the ultra-fine luminous pale-blue particles (which the blue packaging represents). It counteracts the dark orange undertone (which makes skin look dull and lifeless) and keeps the face bright (not shiny) and fresh-looking throughout the day. The color of the foundation does not fade or turn dull when the face gets oily.

When I tried it for the first time, I was amazed. All the advertising claims were lived up to. No wonder it sold so well. The color does not darken over time, unlike what usually happens with a lot of other foundations. And the foundation stays fresh throughout the day and my face actually looks more luminous (not greasy!) by the end of the day.

Each year the packaging and the formulation of the foundation change, so we’re in the 7th-generation in 2006. But the fine blue-based particles have always been the main feature of Raycious. This year, the new formulation is all about defining the facial contour, and the foundation case became as much of a talking point as the foundation itself when it features a three-way mirror (for seeing exactly how the foundation defines the contour of our faces from multiple angles).

Aube, Sofina’s color makeup collection, offers all the good basics for daily makeup. The packaging changes entirely every two years or so. New products replace existing ones season after season and we end up with a completely new line every two years, in line with the revamped packaging. The Spring 2007 Collection is mentioned in a previous post.

The daytime moisturizers with proper sunscreen ingredients are the most popular items in the skincare line. They are fresh and still great as a makeup base.

Packaging-wise, Sofina is the most down-to-earth one among all my favorite brands, but it consistently offers great and innovative products. I will always be its loyal customers.

{ 18 comments }

Update: Sofina Aube Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Friday, November 17, 2006

in -Aube (Couture), -Kao, -Sofina, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

Sofina is part of Kao, one of the largest cosmetics companies in Japan. It has a very youthful image. Their makeup line Aube radiates youthful elegance and the foundation line Raycious is one of the best foundation collections in Japan.

The new Aube collection includes 13 lipsticks and 5 4-color eyeshadow palettes. Similar to Kanebo Testimo‘s upcoming collection (discussed here on a previous post), the eyeshadow palettes feature tone-on-tone color selections, except for a limited edition palette, which features olive, pastel green, and soft orange.

The collection also includes mascaras, a lip base, and a loose powder. More details will be added to the Aube website later about these products.

The collection will be launched on December 13th.

Sofina is among my favorite Japanese brands as well. I will review it (especially the Raycious foundation line) on Sunday.

{ 0 comments }

Keep It Gold: YSL

by PJ on Thursday, November 16, 2006

in -YSL, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Opulent and luxurious but never tacky or gaudy, nobody else does gold quite like Yves Saint Laurent cosmetics.

My first YSL product is the Tient de Perle powder foundation. The powder feels soft and moist, and it goes on very smoothly. The great thing about it is that it doesn’t give that chalky I-just-piled-on-my-foundation look and that it looks completely set right after the application. But the flip side is that, for my oily skin, it doesn’t control shine very well.

The Mascara Volume Effect Faux Cils is another great one. It creates long and thick lashes, as long as I go easy with it (otherwise it creates clumps). It is also fantastically good for my eyebrow. I sometimes use it instead of eyebrow powder to define my eyebrow. It is extremely effective and it looks ultra-natural.

There was a period of time when I didn’t really use any YSL product. But their Golden Gloss, a new line of lip glosses launched this summer, changed all that. It is one of my favorite lip glosses. It has everything I like in a lip gloss: it is relatively sheer with sparse glitters. (I don’t normally like color-intense lip glosses or those with loads of pearly glitters.) I have the one in #3, which is a natural pink.

I bought their limited-edition Gold Celebration Palette for this Christmas. This is their fourth Christmas palette and it is the only one I have. (I wish I had all four, but they are a bit pricey.) I am convinced that this one is the best one. I like the design of the palette and all the colors are quite wearable.

They have two different bracelets for Christmas 2005 and 2006. The 2005 one looks very striking to me but it is way too big and chunky as a bracelet (even though I like chunky). It may work better as a bag charm. This year, the new design is much better. But it is still not quite there yet. The design of the gold panel is too complicated for my liking. If they had kept it simple, it would probably sit on my dressing table right now. Nevertheless, the rest of their Christmas collection this year is still pretty dazzling and gorgeous.

One thing that I am slightly worried about YSL is that it might not appeal to the young market. The packaging might look overly grown-up for some younger consumers. But personally I like it and I prefer the gold to the brown that they use for some of their other products, which is slightly nondescript. So, as far as I am concerned, keep it gold!

{ 2 comments }

Kanebo T’Estimo Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, November 15, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, -T'Estimo, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

Japanese cosmetics company websites almost always feature their latest products weeks before they hit the shopd, which is to create a buzz and to have the fans drooling for weeks (and racing toward the shops on the launch day). (European brands please learn!!)

Kanebo T’Estimo is usually one of the first brands in Japan to launch the seasonal collection, and you can already see the whole collection on the official website, with all the other bits up on December 1st. The new collection will appear in shops as early as December 16th.

It seems T’Estimo will be going to back to tone-on-tone with their eyeshadow palettes. The blues and the greens should be soft and wearable (typical of Japanese cosmetics), and the browns should be great from day to night.

Tomorrow: YSL (the last of my three European favorites).

{ 0 comments }

Loving Japanese brands (4 of 7) : Jill Stuart

by PJ on Tuesday, November 14, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Like Anna Sui and Paul & Joe, Jill Stuart is a non-Japanese fashion label that launched the beauty line in Japan, and, just like the former two, the cosmetics line was a sensation in Japan.

It was launched on August 31 last year with a full range of products (for eyes, cheeks, lips, nails,…) Later on, there was a full foundation line. The star product is the loose powder blusher. The shape of the container is not something that fits comfortably in any makeup bag, but this does not stop people from wanting to own it and put it on their dressing tables. It looks fancy and feminine.The loose-powder form of the blusher is obviously quite a novelty, too.

October 6 saw the launch of the Jill Stuart skincare line, with products mostly catered to the Japanese market.

I was simply wondering how many people in the US knew about Jill Stuart cosmetics, so I posted a question on the discussion board at MakeupAlley about this. Only two people replied and they had never heard of it. That was what I thought would be the case.

Out of the whole beauty line, only the fragrances are available in the US so far.

Part of my Jill Stuart collection includes the 2005 Christmas Collection, with a face highlighter and a mini lip gloss. The container of the highlighter (pictured left) is basically the same as that of the loose powder blusher. For me, I don’t think a pot of blusher can look any cuter than this.

So far, the whole Jill Stuart cosmetics collection is still only exclusive to Japan. I have heard some cosmetics fans in Asia saying that it is going to be introduced to some other parts of Asia. It is quite possible, since there are people from Hong Kong and Taiwan buying Jill Stuart products in Japan. They bring them back and sell them in their boutiques or on-line, and the demand is high. I think Jill Stuart will definitely have a market in these two places at least.

I don’t expect to see Jill Stuart anytime soon in the UK. But as long as it is going strong in Japan, I’ll make my way there whenever I can…

{ 4 comments }

The Perfect Black: Chanel

by PJ on Monday, November 13, 2006

in -Chanel, makeup, makeup - blusher, makeup - eyeshadow, skincare

(pictured: part of my collection)


I like Chanel‘s low-key but glamorous image. It has a pure sense of existence. I sometimes wonder what it would be like if Chanel changed its black packaging. But it is hard to imagine that. Unlike Dior, which changes packaging every couple of years, Chanel always keeps the black (and white). In a way, I hope this will never change.

My first Chanel purchase is Double Perfection Compact. Even though the color turned out to be too pale for my complexion, I couldn’t help but notice how fine the powder was.

I have never used many Chanel skincare products at the same time, but I realized that, over the years, I’ve had quite a few favorites (for my sensitive skin):

Systeme Purete – Le Gel (Purifying Cleansing Gel)

Gommage Microperle eclat (Maximum Radiance Exfoliating Gel)

Soin Tendre Levres (Hydrating Lip Treatment) (It has proper UVA and UVB sunscreen ingredients for daytime.)

Solution Destressante (Calming Emulsion) (This is extremely good when I have occasional small red patches on my face at the turn of seasons.)

Makeup-wise, I am a fan of the Irreelle line:

Irreelle Blush in 80 Tea Rose (the perfect natural pink)

Irreelle Blush in 90 Snow (good highlighter)

Irreelle Soleil in 21 Toundra (a good bronzer for my medium skin tone; with a slight shimmer)

Irreelle Duo in 10 Desert-Rose (Soft Eyeshadow Duo; very silky and blends well)

I also like Les 4 Ombres in 77 Influences and Ombre D’Eau in 50 Bay, both very wearable eyeshadows.

The Chanel Studio in Harvey Nichols London is perhaps one of the best Chanel counters in the world. It features the usual range available in the UK, plus items sold in the US and the Asian markets. I bought the Irreelle Blush (90 Snow, pictured bottom left) there. It is usually only sold in Asia..

As for recent launches, I quite like Poudre Douce (20 peche tendre and 50 mimosa in particular). I have similar products so I need to keep telling myself to stay away from them…

But I will always love Chanel…

Updated on June 10th 2009:

The Chanel Studio in the UK is moving to Selfridges in London. Please check this post for more information.

{ 0 comments }

Loving Japanese Brands (3 of 7) : Paul & Joe

by PJ on Sunday, November 12, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, fashion, makeup

Even though Sophie Albou, who founded Paul & Joe, is a French designer, Paul & Joe cosmetics is developed, made and launched in Japan. It is one of the more widely available brands of my Japanese favorites. (Check here for the Japanese website, which has slightly more content.)

The soft and understated pale pink color glides through most of the makeup products and each season features specially designed Paul & Joe prints on the limited edition eyeshaows and lipsticks. The elegant and slightly retro image is perfect for the boudoir look, and I think their hummingbird collection for this Christmas is the best limited edition collection to date in terms of both packaging and color selection. (It is strangely not featured on the website but is available in the UK at least, as far as I know.)

Paul & Joe first appeared in the UK in Harvey Nichols London, where I saw the full range for the first time (after looking at all those products on Japanese magazines for quite some time). I just had to get something and I left with a lip gloss. Paul & Joe moved out of Harvey Nichols a couple of years later and now has counters in Fenwick and Harrods. (Check here for more retail points.)

I usually go to the counter in Fenwick. The sales assistants always seem to recognize me and are very friendly and helpful. Quite generous with samples, too.

My favorites are lip gloss in 04 (glittery orange pink), nail treatment oil, hand cream, Blanc eau de toilette (mild, sedate, and elegant), and Blanc body lotion.

The primers and foundations are the more talked about items, although I have not yet tried them.

Their products are regularly featured in magazines in the UK. It seems that they have been expanding their market all over the world. Hopefully it will stay around (especially in the UK!) for a long time and continue to be all feminine and gorgeous.

{ 2 comments }

Loving Japanese Brands (2 of 7) : Anna Sui

by PJ on Saturday, November 11, 2006

in _Japanese Brand Profile, _Loving Japanese Brands, -Anna Sui, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(pictured: part of my collection)


Even though Anna Sui is a Taiwanese-American designer whose career took off in America, her cosmetics range is developed and made in Japan (by Albion) and is essentially a Japanese brand. I adore Anna Sui because it is fun, playful, gorgeous, and mysterious.

I remember reading some comments about Anna Sui cosmetics on the Internet when it was launched in America many years ago. Someone said that the Gothic-style packaging was bizarre (well, not in this season!) and she wondered where the market was going to be.

She was so wrong. One thing she probably didn’t know was how hugely popular Anna Sui had already been in Asia. The style of packaging was actually just right for the Japanese market: it was cute, girlie, fancy, and dreamy. (It is not the only style that sells in Japan, but it does attract everyone that wants everything to look ultra-cute.) In the image-conscious Japanese society, packaging matters and packaging sells, especially when Japan has a hugely competitive beauty market where good (and right) packaging stands out on magazine pages and grabs attention. When the first Anna Sui counter opened in Taiwan, it sold about 30,000 USD worth of products on the first day of business alone. Now, it is still going very strong in Asia.

It does target heavily on the younger consumers, who are the most relentless spenders. This might be part of Anna Sui’s success.

Of course, good packaging is not enough if the content doesn’t deliver. Anna sui has many strong products, such as loose powder, eyeliners, and lipsticks. My personal favorites are the powder blusher and cream-stick blusher (which was discontinued). My powder blusher color is 400. Its tester looked shockingly red when I was trying to decide which color to buy, but it actually goes on matte, sheer, and surprisingly natural. It can be built into a more intense finish as well. The brush in the compact is nice and soft, compared with so many others.

This autumn, the packaging of the foundation range has gone back to classic black, as it first was. I do miss the gold packaging because all the lovely filigree patterns get to stand out much more.

Anna Sui falls a bit short on skincare. It is not particularly known for its skincare range, and it just happens that I haven’t come across anything that works for me.

The last time I saw Anna Sui cosmetics in the UK was several years ago. The self-help shelf in Selfridges London looked forsaken and it didn’t have the full range. Then the shelf was gone and some of the products strangely appeared at the Hard Candy counter in the nearby Debenhams for a few months before they completely disappeared (I think) in the UK. (The fragrances are still widely available though.) It was a shame…if only I could also see all those gorgeous and sensual loose powder cases in every department store here……

{ 10 comments }

← Previous Entries

Next Entries →