all about Japanese cosmetics

My Foundation Routine

by PJ on Wednesday, March 21, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Kao, -Lavshuca, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

As requested by a reader, I am going to talk about my daily foundation routine.

Every foundation product I use is in powder form (loose or pressed). I have oily skin, and anything liquidy or creamy (liquid foundation, creamy concealer,…) doesn’t stay on very well.

I try to make everything simple. I almost never use a primer. I only use a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen (like Estee Lauder DayWear Plus for Oily Skin SPF 15). Then:

1. I put on my ZA 2-way foundation (pictured mid-left).

Well, 70% of the time, that’s actually it. But if I want a more polished look:

2. I put on some transparent loose powder. My favorite two at the moment are from Raycious (mid-right) and Lavshuca (top). They are both very good in disguising pores. They both have minimal shimmer but it is barely visible on the face. Or I use Raycious pressed powder (bottom-left), which is completely matte.

Occasionally, if I need to conceal a pimple (here comes the big trick):

3. I use Raycious powder foundation (bottom-right) as a concealer with the corner of a rectangular sponge and gently press the powder onto a breakout. The light-defusing particles in Raycious powder foundations (especially the earliest generations) are fantastic for precision concealing. Not only is the redness covered, the shadow around the bump is instantly less visible (so the pimple looks much flattened). I want the powder to stay absolutely put on my breakout so it is applied last.

(This trick works wonder for my friends as well when I help them with makeup.)

My suggestion is to always take time doing the foundation. The foundation from a rushed application never stays on well. Taking time and doing everything slowly, gently, and carefully makes a huge difference, even with exactly the same products. (My routine is straightforward enough so it takes 10 minutes from 1 to 3, but I always make sure I don’t rush things through.)

My next post will be about some favorite cosmetics products as voted by Japanese consumers.

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Cosmetics Best-Sellers Across Japan: 2006

by PJ on Sunday, March 18, 2007

in -Anna Sui, -Biotherm, -Bobbi Brown, -Chanel, -Clarins, -Clé de Peau, -Clinique, -Dior, -Helena Rubinstein, -Lancôme, -Paul & Joe, -RMK, -Shiseido, -SK-II, -YSL, all about Japanese cosmetics, bodycare, makeup, makeup - base makeup, skincare

I came across an interesting feature on the January issue of Biteki magazine. It lists best-sellers in each major department store throughout Japan and compares what customers like in different parts of the country. Today I am listing some of them as a whole (non-areal-specific) for you to have a look and I am focusing on products from brands available internationally.

*Skincare/Bodycare*

Shiseido Cle de Peau: Lotion Tendre
Clinique: Turnaround Concentrate
Origins: Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Protection Correction Serum
RMK: Skin Smoother
RMK: Face Protector SPF 31
Biotherm: Celluli Peel
Clarins: Total Body Lift
SKII: Skin Treatment Essence

*Base Makeup*

RMK: Makeup Base
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base Mat
RMK: Liquid Foundation
YSL: Touche Eclat
Clinique: All About Eyes Concealer
Clinique: Perfectly Real Makeup

*Color Makeup*

Bobbi Brown: Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner
Helena Rubinstein: Lash Queen Water-Proof

Lancome: L’Extreme Water-Proof

Lancome: Juicy Tube 17
Chanel: Rouge Allure 04, 13, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 434
RMK: Ingenious Cheeks 29
RMK: Water Color Eyes 04
Anna Sui: Nail Color 333
Paul & Joe: Nail Color 26

(from Biteki January 2007)

One thing I have noticed is that there is one lipstick that tops virtually all the department store top-selling lists: Dior Addict Ultra Shine 2 in 340 Shiniest Peach. Ultra Shine 2 is only available in Asia at the moment, but the very exclusive Harvey Nichols in London actually has it!

Coming up in my next post, I will be sharing my daily foundation routine.

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My Top 10: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#2, #1)

by PJ on Sunday, March 11, 2007

in -Jill Stuart, -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

#2: Jill Stuart (“Brilliant Veil” Collection)

The Look: “Brilliant Veil” is quite an accurate description of the colors on offer here. Medium-pigmented colors add soft hues to the face with a great amount of glow and sheen. The emphasis is on the eyes, with the launch of Jill Stuart’s first collection of eye palettes.

Key Item: Brilliance Eyes palette in 04 Gem Amethyst (reviewed earlier here). A beautiful lilac palette with featherweight powder and intense shimmer and glitter. It gives a veil of color with dazzling and multi-dimensional sparkles. A palette that adds a bit of drama to the eyes.

Winner: Lavshuca

The Look: When I saw the ad campaign featuring the Japanese girl band PUFFY (the two girls you see as soon as you enter the Lavshuca website), I couldn’t believe their transformation. They used to be two funky girls with slightly mad hair jumping around the stage. Now they cannot look more polished and sophisticated while they still keep the coolness and edge. I guess this is the image that Lavshuca’s new collection is trying to convey: cute, fun, feminine, and with a bit of an attitude.

Key Item: Too many to mention, actually, but I will single out Eye Color Select in PK-1 (reviewed earlier here). Pink eyeshadow is hot for this spring, and this pink palette gives a couple of different looks. You can go for a soft pale pink or an intense cherry pink. The lightest shade is good as a base or a highlighter and the brown can be a natural eyeliner.

For me, it was very close between Jill Stuart and Lavshuca this season. They kept switching positions when I was finalizing my rankings. But Lavshuca wins at the end with its more complete range and updated packaging to keep the brand image fresh.

If you are interested in mineral makeup, my next post will be about von Natur’s mineral powder foundation.

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My Top 10: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#4, #3)

by PJ on Friday, March 9, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, -T'Estimo, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

#4: T’Estimo

The Look: The whole collection (both the color and the packaging) is so pretty. The look is femine and elegant. The emphasis is on the eyes. Beautifully and delicately blended gradation from pale to soft to intense, from browbone to lashline, the single-color concept for eye makeup works seamlessly.

Key Items: Frame Impact Eyes palettes. Four eye palettes feature four gradations of colors (blue, green, lilac, and brown). Each palette comes with a cream eyeliner. Don’t be put off by the green and the blue. The colors are soft enough to look natural but pigmented enough to impart a gorgeous hue.

#3: Lunasol (“The Ultimate Skin” Collection)

The Look: The concept is to create flawless skin with the softest colors. Pale pastel colors for eyes and beige-pink for lips. The whole effect is fresh, polished, and very sophisticated.

Key Items: Skin Modelling Lips palettes (second from top on the webpage). It’s the ultimate lip kit. Each of the four palettes features a tinted lip primer, lip color, shimmer-free gloss, and shimmery gloss. The tool for sculpting the perfect pout.

(If you can get hold of the April issue of the Biteki magazine, it comes with a free DVD which is all about creating “The Ultimate Skin” using Lunasol’s latest makeup and foundation collections.)

I’ll reveal my top 2 in my next post (although you can probably guess what they are if you have read some of my previous posts). Still, don’t miss it!

After that, I will talk a bit about one growing trend — mineral makeup.

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My Top 10: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#6, #5)

by PJ on Wednesday, March 7, 2007

in -Ayura, -Dior, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

(pictured: my Dior Addict Ultra-Nude

in #380 Undressed Mauve along with

Dior Detective Chic palette from Autumn 2006)

#6: Ayura (“Hawaiian Garden” Collection)

The Look: Sunny and breezy, with colors that brighten your eyes and your day. The combination of tropical colors in the eye palettes are unusual and fun — turquoise with lilac, orange with purple, and blue with minty green. Great when you want to be a bit more experimental.

Key Items: The three limited-edition Aqua Fix Lipglosses. Fresh and vibrant with three tiers of colors, they remind me of summer cocktails by the beach.

#5: Dior (“Dior Flight” Collection)

The Look: Chic, glamourous, and globe-trotting beauty. The Dior Flight palettes carry all the essentials (eyeshadow, blusher, and lip color), and the two 5-color eye palettes feature two very different looks (soft warm pastels and dramatic blue). The two single-color eyeshadows, white and pink, are spot-on with this season’s soft, femine, and almost-nude look. (Read a more detailed review of the collection here.)

Key Items: Dior Addict Ultra-Nude lipsticks. Definitely some of my favorite items for this season. All the five colors are sheer and wearable while giving a gloss-effect. The #380 (Undressed Mauve) that I have goes well with a variety of eyeshadows like cool pink, lilac, and pastel blue. The must-try for this season, in my opinion!

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My Top 10: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#8, #7)

by PJ on Sunday, March 4, 2007

in -Anna Sui, -Kao, -Sofina, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

#8: Anna Sui (“Blooms of Fascinations” Collection)

The Look: It is all about lips for Anna Sui this season, with a collection full of cute lipglosses and lipsticks in a variety of color palettes (pink, orange, red, and beige). The packaging is adorably girlie as always.

Key Items: Sui Lip Gloss. 19 sweet fruity colors of varying pigmentations. Mix and match them up!

#7: Aube by Sofina (“Splash Beauty” Collection)

The Look: Ultra-shiny and ultra-glossy, this collection brings a watery transparency and a burst of radiance. All five eye palettes feature a glittery eye gloss that can work as a base or a top coat, giving a wet-look effect. The lipsticks impart a gloss-like finish, and the shimmery powder is great for face as well as body.

Key Items: Jewelry Shower Eyes palettes. The name says it all. Apart from the eye gloss, there are gradations of pink, purple, blue, and brown in each palette. The shades are relatively muted, but reasonably so due to the high shine of the eye gloss.

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My Top 10: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#10, #9)

by PJ on Sunday, February 25, 2007

in -SUQQU, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

In the coming posts, I reveal my top 10 of this season’s makeup collections. (Do let me know what tops your list!)

Here we go, in reverse order:

#10: The Body Shop (Vital Brights Collection)

The Look: It is a feast of colors. Cool-tone eyes, rosy cheeks, syrupy lips, and a bit of tan. It is a small collection, but it is one of the most colorful additions from The Body Shop for a few seasons.

Key Items: Eye Color Fusion in blue and green. (Wear them in moderation!)

#9: SUQQU (Daichimegami “Goddess of Earth”)

The Look: Strong,distinctive, and coherent, it is about shades of blue (sea/sky) and beige (earth/desert). Do check out the link above…it is an absolutely beautiful presentation of the collection from the official website. (Japanese brands are so good at this.)

Key Items: Powder Eye Shadow in shades of blue. A strong midnight blue or a bright powdery sky blue…the choice is yours.

Before revealing the rest of my top 10, my next two posts are going to be about Oscar fashion 2007. Stay tuned!

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SUQQU Makeup and Skincare

by PJ on Friday, February 23, 2007

in -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - lip color, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(pictured: my SUQQU lipstick,
samples, and catalogue)

As requested by a reader, I decided to write a post about some individual SUQQU products after I had a more thorough look and got several samples earlier this month.

What really impresses me is the texture of their makeup. The lipsticks are so creamy, and the eyeshadows and blushers are so luxuriously silky that they almost seem creamy as well.

I am particularly keen on Powdery Cheeks in #11 (Ashibi), which is such a universally flattering color for most medium and light skin-tones.

One of their best-sellers is the Stick Concealer. The white one is used first as a base. Blending only comes after one of the two beige ones is layered on top of it. The white concealer is light-reflective and enhances the coverage of the beige concealer.

Here are some thoughts about what I have actually used:

1.Creamy Lip Stick in #22 (Benikoji)

I bought this in my first visit. It is a nice beige pink (even though it looks quite red in the photo). Pigmented and creamy, it is a great color for this season’s polished (and non-glossy) nude look.

2. Cream Foundation

I got a sample of this. Out of all their foundation formulations, this one provides the most coverage. It is not too difficult to blend (with my fingers) and it covers my pores fairly well. The staying power isn’t too bad. It has a dewy finish, which I don’t really like since I have quite oily skin. But I can use a matte loose powder to set the foundation, so that doesn’t bother me too much. (The color I got (#03) is slightly too pale and ashy for my medium skin-tone.)

3. Liquid Foundation Natural

I also got a sample of this. It provides more coverage than Liquid Foundation Skinny (light coverage) and Liquid Foundation Lucent (sheer coverage). It is one of the most easily blendable foundations I have ever tried. But the drawback is the staying power, which is not as good as the Creamy Foundation. The coverage is light to medium, and I would prefer more. Overall, I much prefer the Creamy Foundation.

I got this one in #04. Even though #04 should be the immediate darker shade than #03 for all their foundations, it is actually slightly too dark for me (while #03 is slightly too pale). Maybe the secret lies in #03B, which is between the two shades?

4. HA Complex Cream

Sample again. (The actual product costs about 240 USD for 30g…) I actually don’t like it that much simply because I am quite certain it has alcohol. Even though I couldn’t smell it, my skin turned a bit red about 10 minutes after application, which is typical with any moisturizer with any amount of alcohol. (I will probably have my neck enjoy this very expensive moisturizer…)

I have also got samples of HA Complex Lotion, HA Complex Emulsion, and Make Up Base. But I can really smell alcohol in all these (which is unfortunately so common with a lot of Japanese skincare products). I don’t think my face can handle any of these…

All skincare products have their signature orchid fragrance. It does smell gorgeous, even though it is much better for skincare products to be fragrance-free. In Japan last Christmas, SUQQU had a limited-edition perfume based on this orchid note. I am really hoping it will be re-released as part of the permanent collection!

One skincare product I am actually quite keen on is the Lip Essence Cream. It is very emollient and creamy. Too bad it is so pricey (about 60 USD)!

I personally think SUQQU is stronger in makeup than in skincare. But it is only because my skin can’t really tolerate alcohol and any massaging (the Musculate Massage Cream, which is used daily, is the heart of their skincare regime) and because I do think their color makeup range is simply sublime.

I look forward to seeing their spring 2007 collection. It looks great on the website and I love a makeup collection with a strong theme. I’ll definitely review it after I see it in store.

————-
Edited, on February 25, 2007, as requested by reader:

Price list of reviewed products in UK
(from SUQQU catalogue)

Creamy Lip Stick: £24
Powdery Cheeks: £22
Stick Concealer: £20
Cream Foundation: £60
Liquid Foundation Natural: £40
Liquid Foundation Skinny: £40
Liquid Foundation Lucent: £30
Make Up Base: £24
HA Complex Lotion: £45
HA Complex Emulsion: £70
HA Complex Cream: £120
Lip Essence Cream: £30
Musculate Massage Cream: £60

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Lavshuca Gloss Stick lipgloss

by PJ on Thursday, February 15, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, stash focus

Lavshuca again today. They make some of the cutest stuff around. Their eye palette is just adorable, and this lipgloss pen is another example. In seven colors, the Gloss Stick looks just like any other lip gloss that comes in a pen, and the color I have (PK-3) is a nice basic everyday pink with a bit of shimmer.

But what makes it interesting and fun is the applicator:

The heart-shape dispenser is what seals the deal for me. What a nice little touch! It has a very similar advantage to that of the spatula applicator of Curvy Lip Silicone. It doesn’t smudge off the lipstick and is easy to clean. Cute and clever.

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Lavshuca Eye Color Select palettes

by PJ on Wednesday, February 14, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

Happy Valentine’s Day, everyone.

I didn’t consciously plan this, but I was going to talk about these gorgeous little eye palettes from Lavshuca featuring cute heart shapes. (Lavshuca is one of my favorite Japanese brands. Read more about it in my other post. I also reviewed its spring 2007 collection here.)

The Eye Color Select palette is out this spring and comes in five versions. I got the ones in pink and blue.

Pink is not the easiest color for me to wear but I wanted to try. Surprisingly, they came out nicely and I didn’t look like I had irritated eyelids. The deep pink (lower right on the palette) is very pigmented and is fun to experiment with.