all about Japanese cosmetics

(my most used brushes…)

Last week, a reader asked whether I could talk about the makeup brushes I use. Then I realized I had never mentioned these “hairy” friends who have been helping me putting together my makeup.

One of the reasons that I haven’t talked about them is simply that I don’t have a lot of them. All I have are the basics, and I make do with them. Also, some of them are not really available now, but I will focus on what you can get your hands on.

First of all, a couple of years ago, I bought an Ayura set that included a limited-edition brush set. The brushes came in this lovely brown holder:

(my Ayura brush set)

The set has 6 brushes, for cheeks, eyes, and brows. These are not the kind of sparse, scratchy, and coarse brushes often included in many gifts with purchases. They are soft and fluffy, and they have proven to be durable and easy to use.

(the six brushes in the set)

I use the four on the right very regularly. They and three others make up my “sensational seven”:
(the Sensational Seven)

(a close-up)

(numbered for you)

#1, #3, #4, and #5 are from the Ayura brush set. I don’t think the set is available anymore so I’ll be brief with these. #1 is a soft blusher brush that I have been counting on for all my powder blushers. #3 and #4 are solid and bouncy eyeshadow brushes that never feel scratchy. #5 is a great flat brush for lining the eyes.

#2 is Ruby & Millie Eye Brush [Large]. (I remember it costs about £9 (about 18 USD).) Ruby & Millie is a makeup line sold exclusively in Boots stores in the UK. Last year and this year, the Ruby & Millie makeup brush collection is chosen by InStyle Magazine UK as “the best inexpensive brush line“. I can definitely see why. Budget brush hunters will love some of these brushes. In particular, this eyeshadow brush is thick and dense (thicker than #3). It is good for eyeshadow application for larger areas and for overall blending.

#6 is Shu Uemura eyebrow brush (6 OB). I’ve had this for at least 7 years and it still performs well. This eyebrow brush is slightly softer than those from MAC and Bobbi Brown, both of which I think are too hard. The brush tip is nicely slanted for easy application.

#7 is RMK Lip Brush. This one is retractable and very easy to carry around. The very flat tip allows a precise application. I’d like the hair to be shorter and slightly denser, but it is a minor complaint for a brush that I have been very used to for years.

I have some other brushes but these are the ones I depend on the most. I am not really on the lookout for any new brush, but sometimes I fancy an alternative blusher brush (I am a blusher person) and an angled face shading/contouring brush. Any suggestions? Let me know!

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(from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

Out in spring 2006, Face Color Accent was a new line of blushers for Anna Sui. As a lover for Anna Sui (and for blushers), I decided to check out the shades as soon as I had a chance.

Before testing them, I was more drawn toward lighter shades like #300. But, at the counter, I was recommended #400 as a naturally flattering shade. I was not convinced when I heard this, since it looked very bright and almost neon-ish. But I was pleasantly surprised when I tested it. I decided to go for this and it was definitely a good decision.

(my Anna Sui Face Color Accent in #400…
love the packaging)

(The brush, which I don’t really use,
is actually not too shabby.)

This is a cute bouncy bright matte pink that can create natural and beautiful rosy cheeks. It is slightly more pigmented than most of the other blushers I have. It can go on sheer and impart a light flush of color and it can be built into a more vibrant finish with little effort. The powder is solidly pressed so it is easy to control how much powder you want the brush to grab.

Overall I really like this. When applied lightly, it really matches and complements the natural flush of my cheeks. I also tend to like matte blushers, so this is something I constantly go back to!

Related Posts:

Still feeling cheeky?
Lavshuca Cheek Color PK-1

My personal take on Anna Sui:
Loving Japanese Brands: Anna Sui

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(continued from Part 1 and Part 2)

#3: Jill Stuart

(from www.jillstuart-beauty.com)

(from Biteki September 2007)

When I knew there was going to be a new pressed powder blusher for Jill Stuart, I was trying to imagine what it would look like. I have to say the actual packaging doesn’t disappoint me, to say the least. Very ornate and princessy. (I will review this later on.)

The limited-edition Point Crystal II loose eyeshadow (pictured mid-right) rides on the success of the previous Point Crystal from last fall. This time, the shades are slightly more intense. Overall this is such a pretty collection.

#2: Dior

(from www.dior.com)
(from Biteki September 2007)

The 5-color eyeshadow palette in 060 Silver Goddess (the right one of the two palettes) is so fall 2007, with great shades of grey and silvery copper. If you have tested the blue shade in this palette, you know that it has vivid pink shimmer. So very pretty. The two eyeshadow palettes also complement the two Diorissime palettes (far right).

Currently only two Dior Blush shades are sold in Japan, while a larger selection is available in the US and the UK. There is actually a shade called A Touch of Blush. Well, not exactly the name of my blog, but close enough. (And it is a great natural shade!)

The Diorissime palettes finish off the collection beautifully. I have 002 Seduction Drama (the one available in the US) and I love it.

#1: Lunasol

(from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)
(from Biteki September 2007)

This is the best collection for fall 2007 in my opinion. It is also one of the most stunning collections from Lunasol.

All the items for eyes, lips, and nails coordinate with one another and come in five mini collections. Each features a 5-color eyeshadow palette, an eyeliner, a lipstick, a lip gloss, and a nail color. Among the eyeshadow palettes, the one in blue (04 Saphire) and pink (05 Ruby) are very popular in Asia right now, and they certainly tickle my fancy!

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(continued from yesterday)

#6: Guerlain

(from www.guerlain.co.jp)
(from Biteki September 2007)

Continuing from a gorgeous collection in summer with Pucci, Guerlain puts forward some more great items. I like the gorgeous Ombre Eclat Duo & Liner palettes. The eyeshadows are smooth and silky, and so is the cream-to-powder eyeliner. The color selection is spot on, with blue and grey, pink and plum, and an array of neutral and golden shades. The shiny gold compact has a great sense of substance to it.

#5: Chanel

(from www.chanel.com)
(from Biteki September 2007)

Chanel stays right on trend with olive green, featured in Les 4 Ombres (Garden-Party) and Irréelle Duo (Lotus-Cactus). Les 4 Camélias de Chanel (that I won’t be buying) has some pretty and wearable colors. The blushers are kept muted to go with the sultry eyes and intense lips.

#4: Lavshuca

(from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lavshuca)

(from Biteki September 2007)


Lavshuca has been doing well since its debut last year. The collection is expanding with more and more lovely items. This season, I love the new Eye Color Select palette in PU-2. The new Grade Color Select eye palettes (mid-right) are soft and sensual. The new Color Conc Rouge (bottom) does not live up to the promise, but they are still competent glosses in very cute packaging.

Come back for the final part of the count-down later!

Related posts:

Fall 2007 Makeup Trend Report

Fall 2007 Makeup Round-Up Part 1

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It is time to round up my top 10 makeup collections for fall 2007, in reverse order, throughout the rest of this week. This time I have included photos of the seasonal makeup catalog from the September 2007 issue of Biteki magazine.

#10: ettusais


Ettusais has re-packaged its makeup collection. Everything still looks minimal and simple to show off the variety of colors. I especially like the vibrant shades of the Eye Color (top right).

Another interesting item is the Cheek Color (far right). All the 7 shades are packaged in a round compact with a spongy puff applicator attached to the bottom of the compact. I wonder how well the applicator works…

#9: Bobbi Brown


Bobbi Brown doesn’t appear on my top 10 lists very often (I have been doing the lists for a while for some of my friends.) But this collection caught my eyes. The Stonewashed palette has a great selection of brown, taupe, and grey shades. I nearly considered buying it, but the battle was won by Dior’s Diorissime palette. I am also intrigued by the eyeshadow trios. It is a slight departure from their usual neutral tones.

#8: Elégance


Elégance’s latest collection is in tune with the fall 2007 makeup trend. The eyeshadow palettes feature lovely shades of muted green and grey. They also include some lilac shades, which I always like.

(photo from www.elegance-cosmetics.com)

The lip glosses look scrumptious. All the shades look very wearable and appear to have delicate shimmers. Love the gold packaging as well. Very Glamorous.

#7: Anna Sui

(photo from www.annasui-cosmetics.com)

The Mini Rouge lip colors (top right) have been popular with Anna Sui collectors for the ultra-cute packaging and a good selection of shades. The limited-edition Pressed Powder M (bottom right) has been popular as well. For me, the new Liquid Eye Color (lower mid-left) looks very tempting.


Stay tuned for the rest of the round-up in the following days!

Related Posts:

Fall 2007 Makeup Round-Up Part 2

Fall 2007 Makeup Round-Up Part 3

Fall 2007 Makeup Trend Report

If I Could Go To Japan RIGHT NOW
(with more on ettusais and Elegance.)

Summer 2007 Makeup Round-Up Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3

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(one of the beautiful seasonal ad images from Inoui ID)
(photo from www.inouiid.com)


When I heard about Shiseido’s Inoui ID being discontinued earlier this year, my heart sank. (I also read that,
upon knowing this, a shell-shocked Japanese Inoui ID fan felt that her nose was almost bleeding.)

I was transported back to Tokyo several years ago. I was in a Shiseido boutique in Shinjuku and sampled many beautiful lines like Emerger, Dignita, and Inoui ID. I picked some Emerger and Dignita items, but somehow decided to skip Inoui ID at the time.

What was I thinking??

Inoui ID was on my shopping list since the beginning of this year when I started to have the vaguest plan to go to Japan again. But sadly I had to cross it out from my list…

I love the bold red packaging. So chic and memorable. Some of their most popular products were the eyeshadow palettes, which featured smooth texture and some great color combinations (I want #30!):


(photo from www.inouiid.com)


I like many of the ad images as well. The one above is one of my absolute favorites. Soft, simple, airy, but still striking and stunning. (Loving the blue eyeshadow!)

I think the discontinuation is simply a marketing decision (a wrong one in my opinion), since Shiseido has been trying to cut down the number of lines by discontinuing some and merging some others. I hope that, Dick Page, the creator of Inoui ID and Shiseido’s current creative director, will come up with something even better!

If you are interested, read about the mourning of a like-minded.

Related Post:

What are your favorite Japanese brands?
(Inoui ID was mentioned!)

Other Bring It Back! posts:

Calvin Klein Cosmetics, Cynthia Rowley, Helena Rubinstein, Bulgari Skincare, and Sephora (back to the UK)…

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(SUQQU’s fall 2007 foundation lineup)
(photo from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)


Like the regular seasonal color makeup launches, many Japanese brands release new foundation products in spring and fall. Some are new additions and some replace part of the collection.

SUQQU has been changing the packaging from creamy white to black and a very dark violet, and the new foundation products continue the transformation.

Looking at the whole SUQQU foundation lineup, I notice that a couple of the products have been discontinued (the Cream Foundation, which boasts a natural medium-to-full coverage, and Liquid Foundation Lucent, with sheer coverage).

But overall the foundation line (what SUQQU is mainly known for) has expanded. The new additions include:

One cream foundation
One powder foundation
One primer for the cream foundation
One primer for the powder foundation
One loose powder (SUQQU’s first loose powder)

These new items include red, yellow, and blue pigments to add vibrancy and transparency to the complexion.

I am interested in the loose powder. I usually use a powder foundation, wait for a few minutes, AND set it with loose powder for maximal lasting power. I love the very groomed and polished look. A good loose powder can really make my skin smooth and cover up the pores. (Read about my foundation routine if you are interested.) I look forward to testing all these new products later!

Outside Japan, SUQQU is available in Selfridges London (Yeah!) as well as Isetan and Central Chidlom (from September 15) in Bangkok.

Related Posts:

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(See some stunning ads of this exquisite Japanese brand)

SUQQU Make and Skincare Review
(after trying out a lot of goodies)

SUQQU Clear Veil Powder: An Unprecedented Masterpiece
(I am *still* waiting for its debut in London in October…)


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I am planning to visit Japan again. It won’t be happening very soon, but my shopping list has been growing longer and longer already!

Apart from some of my favorite Japanese brands (such as Ayura, Sofina, Lavshuca), there are some specific items of my favorite brands and other very interesting lines I want to look at.

Here is just a little sneak peek of my shopping list!


1. Jill Stuart

(photo from www.jillstuart-beauty.com)

My ultimate cosmetics shopping trip in Japan will undoubtedly start with Jill Stuart (despite the risk of spending all my savings on the first day). I want to sample everything! I have several Jill Stuart items but I have always wanted more. I will definitely test the Blush Powder (loose powder blusher, second from left) and pick a shade I like.


2. Lunasol

(photo from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)


I absolutely love all the Lunasol items I have, but I have not yet had any of their beautiful eyeshadow palettes. They are quite expensive but…when in Japan…!

3. Elégance

(photo from www.elegance-cosmetics.com)


I absolutely love this brand but I haven’t really talked about it on my blog. El
égance is a French fashion label that has a cosmetics line in a couple of Asian countries. It is very high-end but the quality is great. I love the simple but opulent gold packaging as well. I am interested in their pressed powder blusher and the new cream blusher.

4. Eprise

( photo from www.albion.co.jp)

Eprise is the makeup line from Albion, a major cosmetics brand in Japan. Albion has some extremely popular skincare and foundation products. The makeup line Eprise is relatively low-key but has an elegant look that really appeals to me.

5. ettusais

(photo from www.ettusais.co.jp)


I have used many ettusais foundation and skincare products and have thought highly of them. The ettusais makeup line has recently been re-packaged. Well, it doesn’t particularly look very exciting, but I would like to have a look at the new blusher (yes, I can’t have enough blushers…), which features a sponge puff attached to the bottom of the container.


6. Sonia Rykiel

(photo from www.isetan.co.jp)

Sonia Rykiel is another French fashion label that has a cosmetics line in Asia. Known for some great foundation formulations and a couple of skincare products, Sonia Rykiel Cosmetics has an exquisite quality. Currently, the makeup packaging is inspired by Sonia Rykiel’s famous stripy patterns:

(photo from www.isetan.co.jp)


7. Watosa

(photo from www.isetan.co.jp)

Watosa is a quirky brand with a colorful look. Like Stila, paper is used for some of the product packaging. I bought a Watosa lipstick in Hong Kong many years ago and this is a brand I want to try more products from.

8. Kiss

(photo from www.kiss-cosmetics.com)


Kiss is a drugstore line that has been immensely popular in Japan. The packaging is very girlie, although I don’t think the overall look is as dreamy and princessy as Lavshuca. But like Lavshuca, their products are very affordable and I won’t leave Japan without a couple of their goodies.

9. Love Clover

(photo from www.loveclover.jp)

Love Clover, like Makemania (which carries Curvy Lip Silicone) is part of SONY. It has also been a popular drugstore brand and has a rather similar feel to Kiss. The PonPonCheek N (above) looks so adorable!

10: Anuenue


(photo from www.ar-anuenue.com)

Anuenue is another drugstore line from SONY. It recently launched some skincare products, including Hand Balm and Lip Balm seen above.

The list goes on and on, as there are many other brands and products I am interested in. But I’d better stop here before I get carried away (and book my flight to Tokyo tomorrow)!

Notes:

1. In the UK, we have Shiseido International, Kanebo International, Paul & Joe, RMK, and SUQQU. (We used to have Anna Sui and Chic Choc, but they left a few years ago.)

2. Some of the brands above are available outside Japan. But Japan is the only country where all of them are available…

Related posts:

Read about my favorite Japanese brands:
Ayura
Anna Sui
Jill Stuart
Lavshuca
Lunasol
Paul & Joe
Sofina

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(Bon appétit!)


(The main course is served tomorrow…)

I guess it is fair to say that we all love freebies. Getting cosmetics samples is a great way to test-drive potential candidates and discover new favorites.

Like return policies (and thank you for all your comments and contributions), I have also observed that the level of generosity when it comes to samples seems to differ from country to country.

In my own experience, sales assistants in Japan seem to be particularly generous.

I had an unforgettable experience when I was in Tokyo. I bought two small travel-size (30ml) Shiseido toners in a drugstore. I didn’t expect to get any sample and I felt embarrassed to ask, since the toners were inexpensive and since the staff so kindly offered to keep and watch over my heavy belongings behind the counter while I was browsing.

But when I showed interest in another Shiseido skincare line (after I paid for my toners), one assistant not only gave me samples of virtually the whole line of about 15 products but also taped all of them, one by one, next to where they appeared on the product brochure (so I wouldn’t mess up the routine due to my lack of competence in Japanese).

Well, in a way, she didn’t achieve her purpose (of having me try more of their products) at all, because the brochure and samples have been kept untouched as a souvenir. (I wish I had a photo to show you! It is quite a sight.) But this level of patience and service has impressed me tremendously.

What about the US? I have never lived in the US but I have an impression that the sales assistants are also generous, even for non-purchasing customers, as long as they show enough interest. (This is where I’d love your stories and thoughts. Let me know!)

In the UK, it can be difficult to get samples without any purchase. Generally, even when I do buy things, it depends on whether the assistant knows me from previous purchases or it depends on how much I buy.

But I did once experience moments of brilliance in a Boots store in London. After using my Boots advantage card loyalty points on a Chanel blusher (so technically I didn’t pay for it), I was looking at some Chanel skincare products. It just so happened that whatever product I was pointing at and said I was interested in trying, the assistant managed to find a sample for me.

My friend who was with me then said it looked as if the assistant had been hypnotized by me… (Ummm…is this a skill that I actually have?)

But, most of the time, I need to try way harder than this…

I am interested to know about the sample-giving “culture” where you are. Do drop a comment, and please let me know which country (or city) you are in!

Tomorrow (the main course): I talk about how I usually ask for samples at the counters. I don’t want to keep my experience to myself anymore, so do stay tuned!

Other mini discussion going on:
Can I Return This, Please?

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(Lavshuca Color Conc Rouge PK-1)

Color Conc Rouge (10 shades) is part of the Lavshuca fall 2007 line-up. It is supposed to be a lip color that is between a lipstick and a lip gloss. It promises to have:

— the level of pigmentation of a lipstick
— a highly viscous consistency of a lip gloss
— good staying power

So, a long-lasting syrupy and pigmented lip color. Sounds very special. (I think “conc” stands for “concentration”. But please correct me if I am wrong.)

Does it fulfill the promises? No.

It is a nice gloss nonetheless, with a natural watery shine I love, and PK-1 is a very cute pink shade. But it doesn’t fair very differently from some of the other glosses I have.

I think a better description of this product is that It is a mildly syrupy and lightly pigmented gloss that imparts a watery shine with minimal shimmer, with reasonable staying power. (But some other shades could be more pigmented than PK-1.)

(the cute heart-shape dispenser)


For me, a lip gloss that is actually very close to what Color Conc Rouge promises to be is Nina Ricci‘s Tender Lacquered Lipglaze:

(Nina Ricci Tender Lacquered Lipglaze)
(photo from www.ninaricci.com)


I have #2 Rose Jupon, which is a peachy pink. Exceptionally syrupy and glassy, it is quite pigmented as a lip gloss and can cover a good deal of my natural lip color. Too bad Nina Ricci cosmetics is not available in the UK anymore.

Also, I find that Dior’s DiorKiss has a very syrupy consistency as well and some of the shades are quite pigmented.

A-Mused at Musings of a Muse has a review of Lavshuca Color Conc Rouge as well. I understand what she means by the gloss not gliding well. For me, it does take a couple more seconds to get a perfectly even finish but the application is still relatively easy.
I think it is down to the combination of the applicator and the particular consistency of the gloss, since there is no problem with Lavshuca’s Gloss Stick (with almost the same applicator).

Overall, Color Conc Rouge is still a fairly good gloss, even though it doesn’t particularly stand out from the rest of the field…

Related posts for your lips:

Sony Curvy Lip Silicone
(million-selling sensation)

Lavshuca Gloss Stick
(a cute and lovely Lavshuca gloss which doesn’t make empty promises…)

Lavshuca Jewelry Lips
(Such little gems!)

Also, don’t miss these doses of fall 2007 makeup:

Fall 2007 Makeup Trend Report
Lavshuca Eye Color Select
Dior Diorissime palette

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