all about Japanese cosmetics

(clockwise from top:
El
égance Purity Eyes 11
Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow 250 Seascape
Lavshuca Eye Color BG-1
Lavshuca Eye Color Select BU-1)


Blue eyeshasows divide views. People either embrace them or stay away from them…

The shades of human complexion, from pale beige to dark brown, are all warm tones. Blue is perhaps the furtherest away from human skin-tones. So what can blue eyeshadows do for us?

By definition, they create contrast. They add depth, create dimension, and enhance definition. Blue eyeshadows make eyes pop.

A dust of light blue eyeshadow wakes up the eyes and makes them look brighter and more energetic. It seems to me that there are many more beautiful choices of easily wearable light-blue eyeshadows in Japanese cosmetics. Could it be that consumers in Japan understand the essence of blue more than the rest of the world?

Play It Safe
If you haven’t tried blue, want to give it a go (please do!), but don’t really know which “safe” shade to go for, I think a good starting point is to look at your own skin-tone. The darker your skin-tone is, the darker shade of blue for you. (When in doubt between two shades, try the lighter one.)

Make It Work
To make the best of blue, layer different shades of blue to maximize blue’s potential to create dimension for your eyes. For a glamorous or edgy look, try teaming blue with neighboring shades like green and lilac (as in Dior’s 5-Color Eyeshadow palette in 250 Seascape, seen above).


Take It Forward
The trendy way to wear blue for fall 2007 is to wear it with a coordinating grey, which is the color of the season and acts as a great accent color. Pair pastel blue with silvery grey and dark blue with charcoal grey. Below, we see a subtle, modern and almost effortless way to wear blue, which really brightens the eyes:

(cover, Biteki August 2007)

On the whole, blue is a great friend for our faces. A blue-tinted primer cancels out sallowness, a blue-tinted lip gloss creates depth and makes lips appear more plumped, and a sheer pastel-blue loose powder (which you can find in Shu Uemura) can give a luminous transparency to your face.

Some people think blue is back because the 80’s is back (and some people stay away from it exactly because of this). But I think blue is ever so wearable today because there is a great variety of textures (powder, cream, mousse,…), finishes (from velvety matte to ultra-shimmery), and shades.

This is what I think about blue, one of my favorite colors. What’s your view and observation?

(A big thank-you goes to Tammy, who started a mini discussion on blue eyeshadows under my post on Kanebo’s Kate and inspired me to write a post about them.)

More for the fans of blue:

Lavshuca Eye Color Select in BU-1
(a closer look at the Lavshuca palette seen in the photo above)

Blue-Tinted Lip Gloss?
(Well, I am not giving up until everyone has tried it…)

Sofina Raycious Foundation
(with fine blue-based particles to liven up your complexion)

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(Lavshuca Eye Color Select PU-2)

Part of the Lavshuca Fall 2007 collection, this is the only new Eye Color Select palette for this season. In a way, it replaces the discontinued PU-1. (Also, a new line of eyeshadow palettes, Grade Color Select, has been released this fall.)



(top-left: pale lilac, with shimmer
top-right: lilac taupe, with shimmer and fine glitters
bottom-left: warm lilac, with shimmer
bottom-right: dark plum purple, with minimal shimmer)

This palette creates a sensually elegant look. For me, the bottom-left warm lilac shade is the star of this palette and the key to its elegance. A medium plum lilac, it has a warm neutral edge and is particularly wearable for me, as warmer purples suit me slightly better than cold blue-ish ones. It is a very beautiful soft and natural color.

All the shades are a great match and blend seamlessly together. Overall, I love this palette!

The instruction for all the Eye Color Select palettes indicates that the top-right shade, the one with fine glitters, can be worn as a base or on top of the finished look to add sparkles. But for this palette, I find that the top-right lilac taupe is slightly too dark to be used as a base shade. It goes on much darker than it looks in the palette and is almost darker than the bottom-left shade.

I actually think it works very well as a replacement of the bottom-left shade for a very sophisticated look. The fine glitters are not really a problem here. They bring a touch of vibrancy to this neutral color and don’t look over-powering.

In comparison, another purple palette, T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes 03 (read my earlier post for a full review) is able to create a slightly edgier look. It has a wider range of purples and includes a dark purple cream eyeliner.

(Kanebo T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes 03)


Released this spring with relatively colder lilac shades, this T’Estimo one is fresh and upbeat, while the Lavshuca one is soft and sensual. I do love both!

Next week, I will review another item of the Lavshuca Fall 2007 collection, Color Conc Rouge.

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(The fest continues…)

(continued from yesterday)

Today, I bring you the Raycious cases from 2004 through to today.

The Raycious 2004 case has dynamic zig-zag patterns:

(Raycious 2004, 5th)

The Raycious 2005 case is more slender and wider, with bubble details. I really like this one.

(Raycious 2005, 6th)

Raycious brought out an interesting case in 2006. The color is the lightest of all the Raycious cases so far. It is also the thickest because it has to accommodate three pieces of mirrors.

(Raycious 2006, 7th)

Let’s open it up and have a look:

(It is like a mini dresser…)

A three-way mirror powder case is obviously not a necessity, but it is fun to use. Also, this design goes with the 7th-generation Raycious foundation for 2006, named Perfect Angle Powder. It claims to enhance the definition of facial contour. I guess you have all the mirrors to appreciate the new you!

We are back to one piece of mirror for the current Raycious 2007, Glamorous Skin Powder. The mirror is fitted almost right along the rims of the lid and is larger than most other mirrors in the previous cases.

(Raycious 2007, 8th)

In between the releases of the annual cases, Raycious sometimes brings out limited-edition ones. I don’t usually collect them, but I decided to go for this one earlier this year:

(Raycious 2007 limited-edition case)
Also, Haru over on Rouge Deluxe featues the latest limited-edition case. It is quite a bold design, using my favorite color.

These are all the cases I have from the powder foundations throughout the years so far. (When a new case is released, the previous one will go off the shelves. So I think it will be quite difficult to track down the older editions. In a way, all these cases are limited editions…)

Apart from releasing a new powder foundation each spring, Raycious also brings out new liquid foundations in fall. It also carries various primers, concealers, loose powders and pressed powders. I have several of Raycious pressed powders and a loose powder, and I will feature them in the near future!

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(Raycious Case Assembly)

I have talked about why I love Raycious foundations in an earlier post, so I won’t be going there today. (But mainly, it features fine blue-based particles that even out sallowness and redness to make skin bright and alive.)

Today it is all about all the cases since Raycious was launched in 2000. Each year, the foundation formulation changes slightly, and so does the case design.

I have been collecting these cases throughout the years. (I don’t have all the different foundations. The refills fit all the cases apart from the very first edition.)

Here we go!

The 1st-generation Raycious was launched in 2000. It is probably still the best-selling edition to date. This simple case is also my favorite. I also love this shade of blue. (You can see the difference above in the photo.) All the lines are slightly curved. Very subtly elegant. (This is the only Raycious case for a round refill, which, by the way, fits Anna Sui foundation cases as well.)

(Raycious 2000)
Riding on the success of the original Raycious, the 2nd-generation was launched in 2001.
(Raycious 2001)

It has a very reflective sheet in the lid. It is very shiny and colorful when I play it around the light:


The back of the lid can be opened:


I remember this sheet was given to purchasing customers in a very limited period of time:


This pattern was downloaded from the Sofina website in 2001:


You can put anything in the lid. For example, now I am doing some shameless self-promotion:


Onto 2002…the case has a minimal look:

(Raycious 2002)

Cell phone charms can be attached to the back:



The Raycious 2003 case is gadget-free and features soothing patterns:

(Raycious 2003)
It is quite a cutie!

Tomorrow I’ll come back with the ones from 2004 to 2007. You will have a closer look at the one with a three-way mirror. See you then!!

(See the cases from 2004 to 2007!)

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Some distinctive trends in the fall 2007 makeup releases:

– olive green / grey eyeshadows
– intense lip colors

– retro Audrey Hepburn look

Which trend are you going to experiment with this fall?

—Grey Areas—————

In fashion, grey has been hailed as The New Black for a while. I am surprised that it didn’t trickle down to makeup earlier. This fall, grey eyeshadows will be big, among all the neutral tones.

One palette that epitomizes this trend is Shiseido Clé de Peau‘s Ombres Couleurs Quadri palette in 114 (seen below):

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p. 152-153)

(Clé de Peau fall 2007 makeup ad,
Biteki magazine September 2007, p.152)

Also, Dior‘s 5-Color Eyeshadow Palette in 060 Silver Goddess features an array of grey hues along with a sensual light blue.

Other servings of grey eyeshadows:

-Shiseido Maquillage: Sparkle Contrast Eyes 2 GY851

-Majolica Majorca: Shadow Customize BK922
-Kate: Gradical Eyes S BK-1
-Integrate: Live Fix Eyes GY812
SUQQU: Blend Eyeshadow 04

In a way, grey (especially in metallic finishes) is simply a darker silver. The look reminds me of an old-school silver-screen goddess. Very nostalgic and glamorous.

—Green with Envy—————

Another trendy color this season is olive green. Paired with pink, olive green is featured in Lush & Lovely, Chanel fall 2007 makeup collection, as it appears in the latest eyeshadow palettes: Garden Party (Les 4 Ombres Quadra) and Lotus-Cactus (Irréelle Duo).

(photo: from Chanel
at www.bergdorfgoodman.com)

Also, YSL fall 2007 makeup collection features olive green eyeshadows in a couple of the new Ombres Duo Lumières palettes.

In Japanese cosmetics, Cosme Decorte’s new line, Magie Deco, uses pink and olive green in the opposite way, with olive green above the eyes and pink along the lower lash line:

(Magie Deco ad, backcover of makeup booklet,
Biteki September 2007)

Apart from Magie Deco, olive green eyeshadows are also used in:

Kate‘s fall 2007 TV ad (with Gradical Eyes S GN-1)
SUQQU‘s fall 2007 printed ad (with Blend Eyeshadow 01).

Olive green seems to be a relatively masculine color as an eyeshadow, which might be why it has been paired with pink to create a balanced look. But, worn alone, it can be very edgy.

—A La Audrey—————

Givenchy‘s fall 2007 collection, Camouflage Chic, pays tribute to the classic Givenchy muse, Audrey Hepburn. A search in Google Images comes out with photos of what I think is one of the most beautiful people ever, with clean, crisp, and defined eye makeup. Intense color fills between the lash line and the crease line and it is kept clean everywhere else. No smoky eyes here.

Givenchy’s latest Prismissime Eyes in 54 Cache Cache can get you this classic look:

(photo: from www.sephora.com)

Shiseido The Makeup‘s new Silky Eye Shadow Quad in Q9 Lunar Phases is based on the same trend.

Again, this is definitely a very retro look. I think “Less is more” is the key here. Don’t overdo it and keep it nice and simple.

—Strong Lips—————

What if you don’t want to pile on intense eye colors? You can channel the intensity to the lips. Keep the eye makeup fuss-free and choose a rich satiny (not glossy) lip shade. The cover of Biteki September 2007 shows how it’s done:

(cover of Biteki, September 2007)

It can be a wine red, berry red (as in the Chanel ad above), or a warm brownish red. With careful coordination, they can go with grey or olive green eyeshadows, as in Estee Lauder’s fall 2007 look:

(photo: from esteelauder.co.uk)


I quite like this look. Chic and timeless.

What other trends have you spotted?

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I can’t take credit for this description of Kate, Kanebo‘s consistently successful drugstore line.

One reader, Tammy, left a comment under one of my posts on Lavshuca and asked about Kate. She described Kate as “Lavshuca’s edgier, darker sister“. (Both are Kanebo’s “daughters”.)

She couldn’t have put it any better!

But so far I have never bought anything from Kate. (I almost did for several times though.) Somehow the brand does not appeal to me. But, am I not edgy? Am I not dark enough for Kate??

Well, looking at my avatar….

.

(Well hello!)

…ummm……maybe not. (I do blush too easily!!)

Kate definitely has an edgier image (its slogan “No More Rules” sums it up), while Lavshuca is all very dreamy (yep that’s me). But Kate is also one of the most established and best-selling drugstore brands in Japan. It has a strong brand identity and has survived a lot of competition (against the new wave of drugstore brands such as Integrate, Kiss, Makemania and Love Clover).

You can see some of Kate’s TV commercials on YouTube to see how Kanebo is branding Kate.

Aside from the image, some of Kate’s popular items include:

Dual Carat eyeshadow duos
Deep Eyes N eyeshadow palettes
Line Spicy eyeshadow palettes
Glam Trick Eyes eyeshadow palettes
Super Sharp Liner eyeliners

When it comes to continuously releasing attention-grabbing items, I also have to hand it to Kate. The wide array of eyeshadow palettes and the recent cream eyeliner and loose eyeshadow have indeed given Kate that little extra (and almost semi-professional) edge. (I guess this is what I mean by product designs under one of my Anna Sui posts.)

So, have you tried anything from Kate? And what’s your favorite? Let me know!

I can be convinced!

.

Updated on December 31st, 2012:

Finally I purchased my first ever Kate item, Gradical Eyes A in GD-1!

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Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy will be one of the latest drugstore lines in Japan. (The logo is instantly recognizable as the sister brand of Integrate.)

Launched in Japan on August 21st, Integrate Gracy is targeted mainly at consumers in their 50’s, with understated packaging and timeless, elegant, and wearable colors. Also, all the products are fragrance-free, which can be a huge plus for people across all ages.

Integrate Gracy is not the first drugstore brand in Japan to specifically appeal to a more mature clientèle. Kanebo’s Evita (skincare and foundation) and Media (foundation and color makeup) are two examples. Now it’s Shiseido’s turn to add a new player.

The packaging is predominantly black and the overall look reminds me of Media and another of Shiseido’s drugstore lines, Selfit. I actually slightly prefer Integrate Gracy’s packaging to Integrate’s, which I think is painfully plain. (The case of Integrate Gracy’s loose powder looks simple and elegant.)

The line-up is vast and is actually larger than Integrate (launched in August 2006, targeting consumers in their 20’s and 30’s). It features a full range of foundation products, which Integrate does not have at the moment. It includes cream/liquid/powder foundation, primers, concealer, and loose/pressed powder. I think it is quite exciting.

The color makeup includes lipsticks, lip liners, blushers, eyeshadows, eyeliners, brow pencils, mascaras, and nail colors.

The target audience is very specific. But good prices and good quality are definitely for everyone!!

Source: Nikki Net

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(pictured: my Anna Sui items)

Anna Sui, the mother of dreamy packaging and the Gothic princess of the cosmetics land, will release its fall 2007 collection in August. You’ll find:

NEW Sui Rouge V (8 shades)
NEW Liquid Eye Color (10 shades)
NEW Mini Rouge (with chain and mirror, 10 shades)
NEW Pressed Powder M (with marble patterns, 3 shades, limited editions)
Nail Color (5 new shades, limited editions)

The Mini Rouge, with rose decorative details, looks very cute and reminds me of one of my favorite Anna Sui items, the discontinued Ring Rouge (a lip color housed in a ring, see lower left on the photo above).

Even though the quality of Anna Sui’s products have remain consistent, the past several collections looked lackluster and tiresome and lacked interesting ideas. (I also don’t like the fact that it left the UK several years ago!) This collection looks better, but I would still love to see more ingenious and innovative product designs and to see Anna Sui reclaim her edgy identity.

Related Post: Loving Japanese Brand (2-7): Anna Sui

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(pictured: my Lunasol items)

Lunasol’s official website has not been updated with the fall collection yet, but have a look at shots of the Lunasol fall 2007 collection from the printed catalog on a Japanese blog.

The collection will be out in Japan on August 17th, 2007.

I love that there are five different looks in the collection. (It has been done for their spring 2007 collection, where each of the four looks includes coordinating eyeshadow palette, lipstick, lip palette, and nail color.) Named Cat’s Eye, Alexandrite, Diamond, Sapphire, and Ruby, they are like five mini collections.

For fall 2007, each look includes a five-color eyeshadow palette (a first for Lunasol), a liquid eyeliner, a lipstick, a lip gloss, and a nail color. Among them, I am particularly excited about Sapphire and Ruby, which are very striking and distinctive. (See my pattern here? I am adding another member into my blue-tinted lip gloss collection.)

Packaging-wise, Lunasol’s simple and sophisticated style never fails to impress me. When Lunasol was launched in 1999, it featured bronze and silver checked-pattern cases (see powder case on top and lipstick on bottom of the photo above). In 2003, the color scheme changed into a low-key dark brown. Several seasons ago, the finish became much more reflective, as what we see now. I like the fact that the packaging never changes drastically. Instead, it evolves with the time.

Aside from its superior quality and consistently great seasonal collections, the distinctive but understated image is part of Lunasol’s appeal.

Related Article: Loving Japanese Brands (7 of 7): Lunasol

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(pictured: my Jill Stuart items…
more joining my collection soon)


Finally, Jill Stuart’s fall collection has appeared on the official website.

This fall for Jill Stuart, it is all about the cheeks. Following the success of what is now the cult product, Blush Powder, the new pressed powder blusher (Mix Blush Compact) will debut on August 3rd, 2007. (It’s about time!)

Each compact includes four coordinated shades. Five versions are available, one of which is a limited edition. Each compact comes with a cute retractable brush.

I usually go for cool-pink blushers, so #01 (Baby Blush) and #02 (Rose Bloom) look like my kind of blushers.

The collection also includes (check link above to see the shades):

Brilliance Eyes: two new palettes (slightly more sedate and low-key than the spring 2007 shades)
Jelly Eye Color: two new shades (to join the line-up of this best seller)
Lip Lustre: three new shades
Liquid Eyeliner: two new shades
Nail Lacquer: three new shades (limited editions)
Point Crystal II: five shades (out on August 24, 2007, limited editions)
Pouch II: out on August 24, 2007, limited edition

I love the packaging of the new blusher. It is just too adorable to pass up. You will probably see a review of it later!

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