-Kanebo

Spring 2008 Seasonal Top 10 (Part 3)

by PJ on Thursday, March 20, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Dior, -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2008 Spring, makeup, seasonal makeup top 10

(continued from Part 1 and Part 2)

3rd: Dior

(image from www.dior.com)

Dior’s makeup collections tend to capture the trend very well, and this season’s release has done it again, with gorgeous pinks, lilacs, and warm neutrals to add depth.

(Dior spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.joseishi.net/voce/)

Visually stunning as well as wearable, the collection is a feast for the eyes. I always like a seasonal collection with a strong identity, and all the variation of pinks, along with the ad campaign, create a distinct look for this collection.

Dior’s eye palettes have been getting more and more shimmery. (Almost all the shades in this season’s two palettes are very shimmery.) Even though I am not sure I like this direction, the finishes of these shades are still flattering.

2nd: Coffret D’Or

(part of Coffret D’Or’s spring 2008 collection)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

Like EST, Coffret D’Or‘s spring collection is another sublime debut collection. I know some people were not looking forward to seeing T’Estimo being discontinued and replaced by Coffret D’Or. But I simply chose to see Coffret D’Or as the same line (plus base makeup products) being marketed under a new name and new packaging.

I do like the new packaging. It looks more gown-up than T’Estimo and I like the jeweled details on the eye palettes.

The 3D Lighting Eyes palettes are definitely the core of this collection. I have read more reviews where people choose not to buy the spring 2008 palettes from Maquillage or Aube (both of which are similarly priced) and go for Coffret D’Or instead (than the other way around). Even though the color combinations are not particularly unique or striking (see one of my other Coffret D’Or posts for the image of the five palettes), the texture, finish, and lasting power are what make them stand out. (Please check out my review on 3D Lighting Eyes in 04.)

Overall, this is a very exciting debut collection, and Coffret D’Or has probably already created many future loyal followers.

1st: Lunasol

(Lunasol Full Glamor Lips G)

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

Since Coffret D’Or is already so good, why makes Lunasol’s spring 2008 collection even better?

It is the core concept, which is what makes a collection memorable. It is also the visual impact of the whole lineup and how it translates to daily wear.

The colors of the sea and the shades of coral reefs provide the inspiration for this collection. The five Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes are simply gorgeous.

(Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes)

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol/)

While the Sheer Contrast Eyes palette in Blue Coral (above, bottom left) is used for Lunasol’s main ad campaign and is heavily featured in Japanese beauty magazines, I chose Lavender Coral, which I reviewed earlier. The superb quality has consolidated Lunasol’s position as one of my favorite cosmetics brands.

With a distinctive concept and a beautifully wide range of vibrant yet wearable colors, this is the best collection for me in spring 2008.

This concludes my seasonal roundup for spring 2008. What about you? Which spring 2008 collection/item is your favorite?

More Thoughts on Spring 2008

When I was doing my “seasonal top ten” features in the last few seasons, I did feel that the brands I talked about might be a little repetitive for my readers. Since the top-ten countdown is only meant to reflect my own preferences, I never intend to feature a widely varied selection of brands from season to season.

But it is very refreshing to see Eprise, Clinique, Clé de Peau, and Maquillage come up with appealing collections. Also, Coffret D’Or‘s and EST‘s strong debut color makeup lineups prove to be serious competitors.

On the other hand, for me, the spring 2008 collections from Chanel, YSL, Jill Stuart, and Lavshuca are relatively disappointing. But I am sure these favorite brands of mine will wow me later this year.

Coffret D’Or’s Spring/Summer 2008 Base Makeup Collection
(The loose powder is on my shopping list.)

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or
(Is Lunasol still winning?)

Loving Japanese Brand – Lunasol
(my personal take on Lunasol)

{ 8 comments }

Lunasol Summer 2008 Collection – First Look

by PJ on Monday, March 17, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2008 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(Lunasol summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Lunasol will launch the summer 2008 collection in Japan on May 9th.

The collection includes:

– Full Glamor Gloss N: 10 shades (2 of which limited editions)
– Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes: 2 new variations (limited editions)
– Geminate Liners: 2 new shades
– Nail Finish: 4 new shades

This is another stellar collection from Lunasol, with rich and colorful hues. Very exciting!

Lunasol will also release two new skincare products on the same day, Scrubful Wash and Skin Control Mist. Both aim for maintaining a fresh and shine-free complexion for summer.

Updated on April 7, 2008:

First of all, here are photos of the two new eye palettes:

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)

(image from woman.excite.co.jp)

Also, you can see swatches of these two palettes and the two new Geminate Liners.

Lunasol Spring 2008 Collection
(colorful and wearable)

Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral
(a gorgeous lilac palette)

Lunasol Full Glamor Gloss in Bright Pink
(one of my favorite lip glosses)

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Kate Summer 2008 Collection – First Look

by PJ on Monday, March 17, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Kate, 2008 Summer, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(Kate summer 2008 collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kate will release the summer 2008 collection in Japan on May 1st.

The collection includes:

– Rouge Trance S lipsticks: 8 shades
– Dual Carat eyeshadow duos: 3 new variations

The Dual Carat range has been popular, so I think the new additions will be very welcomed. The Rouge Trance S will be a range of sheer and mildly pigmented lipsticks focusing on creating transparent and dimensional lips.

This is my first summer 2008 makeup collection post, and I am looking forward to bringing you more!

Kate – Lavshuca’s Darker, Edgier Sister

Kate Spring 2008 Collection

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Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

by PJ on Tuesday, March 4, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2007 Spring, 2008 Spring, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, stash focus

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Pack UV
& Lunasol Skin Fusing Powder Foundation)

After my first “foundation face-off” post (SUQQU vs. Chanel), some readers were wondering if I would do more. So here is another one, focusing on Lunasol’s current powder foundation, Skin Fusing Powder Foundation (referred to as “Lunasol” below), and Coffret D’Or’s debut powder foundation, Beauty Lasting Pack UV (referred to as “Coffret D’Or” below).

I have also tried the matching primers. I will review how the primers work with the foundations later on. The following comparison is based on the foundations worn without the primers (and right after my Olay daytime moisturizer/sunscreen).

Basics

– Lunasol: SPF 20 PA ++, 6 shades, released in spring 2007
– Coffret D’Or: SPF 24 PA ++, 7 shades, released in spring 2008 (March 1st)

Finish

Lunasol gives a luminous and almost glowy finish, while Coffret D’Or has a predominantly matte finish with subtle luminosity. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Lunasol feels very pleasingly soft and velvety, while Coffret D’Or is slightly drier (but not chalky).

Coverage

Lunasol gives a very good above-medium coverage and successfully covers minor imperfections and redness. Coffret D’Or has a slightly below-medium coverage. In terms of how the coverage maintains throughout the day, both have a good staying power.

Pore Coverage

Lunasol has a relatively good pore-diffusing ability mainly due to the exceptionally velvety texture that adheres to the skin very well. Coffret D’Or’s pore-concealing ability is satisfactory but not outstanding.

Shine Control

All along, it seems Lunasol is winning. However, Coffret D’Or’s sebum-controlling ability is so impressive that I prefer it to Lunasol overall.

First of all, with Coffret D’Or on, it takes noticeably longer for my oily skin to appear visibly shiny than it does with some of my favorite foundations, like Sofina Raycious (earlier versions) and Shiseido ZA. Also, after gentling matting out the shine, the face looks nearly as matte as when foundation is first applied, which is not always the case with most foundations I’ve tried.

As for Lunasol, the soft powder (which has an almost-moist feel) does not seem to absorb sebum very well. The luminous and glowy finish makes the shine look more pronounced as the day goes on. Also, the face still looks somewhat shiny after I matte out the shine.

Between the two, I prefer Coffret D’Or for its exceptionally good shine-control ability. For me, the finish can look a little dry during the first hour of wear. But after that, the finish looks natural for the rest of the day with little maintenance. If you have combination or oily skin or if you live in a warm climate, Coffret D’Or is worth considering.

However, if you have dry skin with no issue of excessive sebum, then Lunasol’s soft and velvety powder will probably suit you better and give you a beautifully luminous finish.

With the primers:

(Coffret D’Or Beauty Lasting Veil UV
& Lunasol Smoothing Makeup Base)

Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Veil UV (SPF 20, PA ++, alcohol-free) has a very pleasing light milky texture and is easy to apply. Designed to add luminosity to the skin, it goes on almost completely sheer and it has visible shimmer. With this primer, Coffret D’Or’s finish turns considerably more velvety, almost like Lunasol (when worn without any primer) and the level of pore coverage is also increased slightly.

However, for me, the huge drawback is that the shine-control ability considerably lessens, which is very disappointing.

Lunasol’s Smoothing Makeup Base (no sunscreen factor, with some alcohol) is designed to diffuse the appearance of pores. It is slightly thicker than Beauty Lasting Veil UV but it is still easy to apply. It goes on almost completely sheer and does not have shimmer.

When worn with this primer, Lunasol’s smooth and velvety texture remains but the finish turns slightly more matte. Even though I don’t think the primer and the foundation worn together conceal pores better (then the foundation alone), the primer does seem to help control shine to a small extent.

While I would see Beauty Lasting Veil UV as a moisturizing primer for those who think Coffret D’Or is too dry, Smoothing Makeup Base seems to be for those concerned about Lunasol’s lack of shine-control ability.

Overall, in terms of the four options (two foundations with/without the primers), I would still prefer Coffret D’Or worn without primer. The winning attribute is definitely the outstanding shine-control efficacy.

Related Posts:
(spring/summer 2008 base makeup lineups)

Coffret D’Or
(loving the look of the loose powder)

SUQQU
(known for good-quality foundations)

Anna Sui
(very tempted to pick up the loose powder compact)

{ 32 comments }

Time-Travel Through Japanese Cosmetics

by PJ on Thursday, February 21, 2008

in -Albion, -Ayura, -DHC, -Kanebo, -Kao, -Kosé, -Shiseido, -Shu Uemura, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics

(Loving Japanese makeup)

As a fan of Japanese cosmetics, apart from all the colorful products available, I am also interested in knowing more about the history behind the various brands and companies. So I was delighted to come across a time-line featuring the launches of many major Japanese cosmetics companies in Biteki‘s January 2008 issue. Let’s have a look:

1872 Shiseido

1887 Kao

1929 Pola

1936 Kanebo

1946 Kosé

1956 Albion

1959 Menard

1967 Shu Uemura

1972 DHC

1981 Fancl

1987 IPSA

1991 Ettusais

1995 AYURA

1996 Equipe (which now owns RMK and SUQQU)

(Biteki, January 2008, p. 102-125)

It is interesting that, like many western cosmetics brands, some of the recent major Japanese cosmetics companies in the last couple of decades have also been acquired by more established ones. For example, IPSA, Ettusais, and AYURA were acquired by Shiseido. Kanebo now owns Equipe, while Kosé owns Albion. Also, in early 2006, Kanebo was sold to Kao.

I will be equally interested in these slightly more corporate and behind-the-scene developments and in all the shiny new releases from these brands…

Related Posts:

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(consolidating my passion)

“Loving Japanese Brands” Series
(my favorite seven)

Japanese Brands in the UK
(featuring where to get them from outside the UK)

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Deciphering the Superiority – Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral

by PJ on Sunday, February 10, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2008 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

(Loving the lilacs:
Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in Lavender Coral)
(under sunlight and minimal artificial lighting)

The Sheer Contrast Eyes palettes are part of Lunasol‘s spring 2008 collection. Drawing inspiration from the vibrant colors of the ocean, the collection captures the rich and diverse hues and the rippling glimmer of the world below the sea level.

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)

The alluring shades are based on those of the coral reefs, and the palettes are aptly named Blue Coral, Green Coral, Lavender Coral, Orange Coral, and Coral Coral.

(Lunasol’s Sheer Contrast Eyes)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/lunasol)

Lunasol’s eye palettes are probably the brand’s most popular items. (Last year’s @Cosme reader survey reflected this, as the top three eye palettes are all from Lunasol.) Even though Lunasol had been one of my favorite brands, I never tried their eyeshadows. With Sheer Contrast Eyes’ eye-catching lineup, I thought it was time for me to dive in.

(under artificial lighting,
where shimmer is a little more visible on camera)

There was very little decision-making involved in which palette I wanted to try, and I am very pleased with what I got. Lavender Coral is a box full of prettiness…

— bottom right: very sheer pale yellow with a subtle gold undertone and plenty of sparkles
— top right: sheer pale pink with intense but fine shimmer
— top left: well-pigmented soft cool lilac with delicate shimmer
— bottom left: semi-matte deep warm violet with sparse shimmer

(All the shimmering particles are multi-colored. The sizes of the particles vary slightly among the four shades.)

The cool lilac is obviously the main shade in this palette. Not only is it one of the most visually beautiful lilac shades I have, it suits me very well. The pale pink is very sheer and mainly goes on as shimmer, but the abundant ultra-fine light-reflective particles and the superbly smooth texture make it both a competent base and a subtle but effective highlighter. (As a highlighter, this shimmery pale pink doesn’t have that harshness that some white or silvery highlighters may have.) The deep warm violet is a good eye-lining shade and isn’t so dark that it can look grey on the skin.

My only very minor issue is with the pale yellow, as the sparkles are a little bit on the big side for my personal liking. But this is not to suggest that it looks glittery or tacky. In fact, if you like high-voltage multi-colored sparkles with a pale-gold base tone, then you might really like this particular shade.

All the shades have a smooth and silky feel and are very easy to apply. They are also satisfactorily long-lasting.

I always tend not to over-layer my eyeshadows and keep the finish relatively sheer. For me, this palette, worn in this way, really stands out, because the subtle shimmer almost creates a unique wet finish. It resembles the surface of the glimmering sea under the sun and echoes so well the ocean theme of this collection.

I also came across a user’s comment on Lunasol’s eye palettes. Obviously from a Lunasol lover, her theory is that the only way to show that we are wearing the stunning Lunasol’s eyeshadows (and not possibly anything else) is to wear them sheer. Only by wearing them sheer can we do justice to the ultimate strength of Lunasol’s eye colors, which is the magical transparency showing through the rich pigments. Wonderfully said!

Even though I have several lilac eye palettes, each one is unique and different and this one is no exception, to say the least. I’ve understood first-hand why Lunasol’s eye palettes are able to draw people into the brand, make the brand more and more coveted, and widen the age range of loyal fans. I will continue to explore the possibilities of this palette and the essence of Lunasol.

Must-Try Look for Spring 2008
(loving all the variations)

Spring 2008 Makeup Trend Report
(featuring the hot colors of this season)

Loving Japanese Brands: Lunasol
(how things got started…)

Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in Purple Variation
(as fantastic as the Lunasol one, but in a very different way)

{ 24 comments }

Japanese Cosmetics in the UK (and Where to Get Them)

by PJ on Thursday, January 31, 2008

in -Anna Sui, -Astalift, -DHC, -Kanebo, -Muji, -Paul & Joe, -RMK, -Sensai, -Shiseido, -SHISEIDO (Global Brand), -Shiseido The Makeup, -SK-II, -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, all about Japanese cosmetics (overseas availability information)

(All available in the UK!)
(anti-clockwise from top-left:
Paul & Joe Blanc Body Lotion
RMK Cleansing Oil N
RMK Irresistible Lips C in 03 Holographic Sheer Pink
SUQQU Creamy Lipstick in 22 Benikoji
Paul & Joe Nail Treatment Oil
SUQQU Sanzekan Eau de Toilette)

As requested by a reader, today I am focusing on Japanese cosmetics brands available in the UK and where they can be found.

(If you are reading this from other countries or if you live in the UK but are quite far away from the counters, I will be mentioning possible ways to purchase from some of these brands on-line or through Selfridges.)

Here we go…

So far, there never seems to be a wide array of Japanese cosmetics lines in the UK. But what is available here is nonetheless a good selection of what the Japanese cosmetics industry has to offer. It also includes one of my favorite Japanese brands, Paul & Joe, which we will start with.

— Paul & Joe

(Paul & Joe spring 2008 collection: Sweetie)
(image from www.paul-joe-beaute.com/en/index.html)

Launched in Japan in spring 2002, Paul & Joe was an instant sensation. With its beautifully feminine packaging, it was almost the Jill Stuart before there was Jill Stuart.

To my delight, it was launched a couple of years later in London’s Harvey Nichols, where I saw the line in person for the very first time. Now it is available in Fenwick and Harrods in London, apart from the three Paul & Joe’s London boutiques. If you only have time for one counter when you are in London, go straight to Fenwick. The counter there is larger and has a better testing area.

There are several authorized on-line sellers of Paul & Joe in the UK, some of which deliver internationally. You can find them on the Shop Info page on Paul & Joe’s English website.

If you are interested, you can read my reviews on Paul & Joe’s Foundation Primer N, Lip Gloss N, and Face Powder, as well as my personal take on the brand.

— RMK

(RMK spring 2008 collection: Shiny Mix Dots)
(image from www.rmkrmk.com/global/)

Developed by Japanese makeup artist Rumiko, the minimally packaged makeup range is trendy but wearable and has featured a lot of distinctive seasonal collections. Some of RMK‘s most popular products include primers, lip glosses, and mascaras. I myself love RMK’s Cleansing Oil N.

Like Paul & Joe, RMK debuted in London’s Harvey Nichols. Later, it moved to House of Fraser on Oxford Street and it now resides in the nearby Selfridges. It is also available in Selfridges in Trafford Centre in Manchester and House of Fraser in Glasgow.

At the moment, UK is the only country outside Asia where RMK has a retail point. But you might be able to buy from the line from Selfridges by phone (from within or outside the UK). Check out Selfridges‘ Service Directory page for detail. (Select “Delivery” for the relevant information).

— SUQQU

(image from www.suqqu.com/global/)

SUQQU‘s launch in London’s Selfridges in November 2006 took me by surprise, as it took a different expansion path. Prior to that, outside Japan, it was only available in Bangkok, which was another slightly unconventional move.

SUQQU’s strength and popularity lie in its base makeup range. Its concealers, cream foundation and Clear Veil Powder are what make the brand well-known in Japan. Its eyelash curler is another cult item. I personally love the ultra-sophisticated brand image as well as the luxuriously smooth and silky texture of SUQQU’s lipsticks, eyeshadows, and blushers.

Recently, I have noticed that SUQQU has been trying hard to get featured in major fashion and lifestyle magazines in the UK, which is great to see. You can read my personal thoughts about SUQQU as well as my reviews on SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Glow and Sanzekan Eau de Toilette.

Like RMK, SUQQU’s counter in Selfridges is the only retail point outside Asia. (Again, please check Selfridges‘ Service Directory page if you are interested in purchasing their items by phone.)

— DHC

(image from www.dhcuk.co.uk)

DHC is a very recent addition to the UK beauty scene and is currently available on DHC’s UK website. You can read about my thoughts on the brand in one of my recent posts.

Updated on February 25th, 2014:

DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil and Eyelash Tonic are available at Fenwick Bond Street in London (from February 13th, 2014). (information from DHC)

— SK-II

(Cate Blanchett for SK-II)
(image from www.sk2.co.uk)

Currently owned by Procter & Gamble, this luxury skincare and base makeup line has its roots in Kobe, Japan, and its brand image has always maintained an oriental feel.

SK-II is currently available in several major cities in England and Wales.

— Shiseido International

(Shiseido The Makeup fall 2007 collection)
(image from www.shiseido.co.uk)

The Shiseido lines available in the UK include Shiseido The Makeup, Shiseido The Skincare, Bio-Performance, Benefiance, Pureness, Future Solution, Shiseido Men, and a selection of body and fragrance products.

Shiseido International is currently available in London’s Harrods and Selfridges as well as various other department stores in the UK (apart from Northern Ireland). You can use the Store Locator on Shiseido’s UK website to find your nearest Shiseido counter. A selection of skincare products is also available on QVC UK.

— Kanebo International

(image from www.sensai-cosmetics.com)

Only Kanebo International’s Sensai line (skincare, bodycare, sun care, haircare, and makeup) is available in the UK. It is currently sold in Harrods and its on-line store (where you can also find Shiseido International and SK-II). I am not entirely certain if the line is available in other department stores in the UK. (Do please let me know if you have more information on this. Thank you!)

—

It is perhaps worth mentioning that Anna Sui was available in the UK for some time before it left several years ago. (It used to be seen in Selfridges and House of Fraser in London.) Also, very intriguingly, one of Kanebo’s makeup and skincare lines, Chic Choc, was very briefly available in the Boots store at Piccadilly Circus in London.

According to what has been happening in the UK in recent years, I suspect that there might be more Japanese brands coming to the UK. I am sure it will only happen very gradually, but I remain optimistic!

—

Updated on February 21st, 2011:

Japanese lifestyle brand Muji also carries basic skincare products in the UK. You can purchase them on-line as well as at Muji stores in the UK and concessions in Selfridges in London and Manchester (The Trafford Centre). (Have a look at the store locator here.)

See my review of Muji Cleansing Oil here.

Updated on August 25th, 2012:

Astalift is now available in the UK. (Read my review of Regenerating Night Cream.)

Updated on December 9th, 2013:

It seems that Muji stopped carrying skincare items in the UK. Only beauty accessories are available now.

Updated on January 22nd, 2014:

Some Anna Sui items are now available on www.asos.com. (Many thanks to Leila for bringing my attention to this!

Updated on March 1st, 2016:

Some Muji skincare products are available in the UK again.

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(celebrating my love for Japanese cosmetics)

Japanese vs. Western
(my comparison of the two camps)

{ 10 comments }

Kanebo CHICCA Update!

by PJ on Saturday, January 26, 2008

in -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics

(image from Kanebo CHICCA)

My post on Kanebo’s upcoming high-end brand, CHICCA, has been updated to include the link to the (beautifully made) official website, additional photos of the lineup, and the two items that have caught my eye.

Have a look, and enjoy!

{ 0 comments }

New Brand Launch: Kanebo CHICCA

by PJ on Wednesday, January 23, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Chicca, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics

(Kanebo CHICCA counter design)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

(the classy detail of the packaging)
(image from www.chicca.jp)

On March 5, Kanebo will launch a new brand, CHICCA (pronounced “kikka”), which will have its own counters in department stores in Japan.

The brand image will be minimalistic and sophisticated.

Targeted at a more mature clientèle, CHICCA will be one of the most high-end brands under the Kanebo Company. In the makeup line, a lipstick will retail at around 50 USD and the pressed powder will retail at around 98 USD in Japan.

(CHICCA’s debut base and color makeup lineup)
(image from www.chicca.jp)

(CHICCA’s debut skincare lineup)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

(part of the color makeup lineup)
(image from www.chicca.jp)

Following the debut of Coffret D’Or last December, this will be another important move from Kanebo, which was not doing very well financially and was purchased by Kao in early 2006. It would be interesting to see how CHICCA competes with other top-end brands in the future.

Updated on January 28, 2008:

CHICCA’s official website has been launched.

Photos of the details of the compact design and part of the color makeup lineup have been added above.

The brand is gradually appealing to me more and more. The Enthralling Powder Eye Shadow (particularly the duo in #02, beautifully named Chiffon Lavender Dress) and Flush Blush (a cream blusher) are just two of the items that have caught my eye.

(CHICCA Enthralling Powder Eye Shadow

and Flush Blush)
(images from www.chicca.jp)

SUQQU: Sensuality with an Attitude
(another major high-end brand in Japan)

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(Can’t have enough of them…)

Loving Japanese Brands
(Read about my 7 favorite Japanese brands.)

{ 2 comments }

Kanebo Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes

by PJ on Tuesday, January 15, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, 2008 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - eyeshadow, stash focus

(Kanebo Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes)
(image from http://www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

Kanebo’s new makeup line, Coffret D’Or, was launched on December 16, 2007 in Japan. (The line is also available in Hong Kong and Taiwan as far as I know.) It is replacing the color makeup line T’Estimo and the base makeup line Revue.Upon seeing the first few images from the line a couple of months ago, I was not very enthusiastic. I thought the packaging was not particularly outstanding and the range of shades was not immensely imaginative.

However, as I saw more and more sneak-peek photos of the collection, Coffret D’Or’s debut lineup started to grow on me. I decided that I would try something from the line.

In many Japanese brands, I think the eyeshadow palettes play an important part in defining the image of the brand, in terms of both packaging and shade combinations. Their 3D Lighting Eyes in 04 Purple Variation really caught my eye. So there was no question which item I would want to try first.

I like the packaging of the palette. It is like a small gift box wrapped in jeweled ribbons. (Many Japanese brands are able to do cute and elegant at the same time without ever appearing tacky.)

04 Purple Variation faces severe competition with my other lilac-based palettes.

The individual shades deserve a detailed mention. First of all, the upper white strip consists of two finishes. (In the photo, you can see that the left half is slightly whiter than the right half.) The right half is a medium pigmented white with very fine multi-color sparkles. The left half is sheerer and has slightly larger multi-color sparkles. The two parts are meant to be used together as a base (swept across with a brush or a wide sponge-tip) but they can still be used individually. I think the reason the two halves are packaged like this is to showcase the variation of sizes of sparkles and the multi-dimensional effect that they can create together (the namesake 3D effect, I suppose).

On the second row, from left to right:
— a dusty pink with very smooth shimmer and very fine sparkles (medium pigmented)
— a sheer and very pale blue with mild shimmer and slightly larger multi-color sparkles (not glitters)
— a well-pigmented muted violet with sparse multi-color sparkles

The dusty pink has a very mild warm mauve undertone and the pale blue has a hint of cool pale lilac undertone.

The palette is a joy to use. The texture of the powder is very smooth, the shades go on very easily, and blending is effortless.

What some people like about eyeshadow palettes of some Japanese makeup lines is that there are step-by-step instructions on how to use a palette to create the look that it is designed to create and to achieve the look in the promotional image.

(instructions on the back of the outer packaging)
(Please click on the image to see a larger version)

These instructions are very useful for people who may be wary of using 4 or 5 colors on the eyes at the same time and for people who might not feel comfortable asking sales assistants for application tips.Before I explored other possibilities, I decided to follow the instructions to see what this palette can do for me. I was very pleased. The main idea of this range of palettes is to use the B shade (please refer to the photo above), which is slightly darker and less sparkling, in the outer 2/3 above the eyes to create subtle shadowing and the C shade (paler and more sparkling) in the inner 1/2 above (which overlaps the B shade) and below the eyes to make them pop.

I put the two photos together so you don’t need to refer back and forth:

The finish look is very soft, natural, and sensual, as the B and C shades are both relatively light. But the palette manages to very effectively enhance the dimension of the eyes. I think the delicate variation in shades, pigmentation, shimmer, and sparkles in this palette is a success. Every single element in this palette is doing something that you can see.

Out of the five promotional looks (modeled by five Japanese actresses as brand ambassadors for the line), I think the look presented by Tokiwa Takako best demonstrates the eye-sculpting effect of this range of eyeshadow palettes:

(Tokiwa Takako for Coffret D’Or)
(image from http://www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/coffretdor)

(Please note that Tokiwa Takako is using the 3D Lighting Eyes in 05 Gold Variation.)

The instructions seem to aim for a fresh and elegant daytime look. For a more intense evening look, smudging the violet shade further (instead of using the shade to simply line the eyes) will add more drama. (I tried that and it worked very well too.)

Overall, I adore this palette and the soft and understated look that it creates. The shimmer is smooth and velvety, and the multi-color sparkles are delicate but vibrant.

If you prefer a lot of impact for the eye makeup, then this range of palettes might not appeal to you as much. But perhaps Coffret D’Or will bring out more intense color combinations later this year. Judging by the quality of this palette, I think it is worth the wait…

Updated on January 28, 2008:

If you are interested, there are reviews of 02 Blue-Green Variation on My Women Stuff and Mostly Make Up.

My other lilac-based palettes, along with a very short comparison (please click on the links for full reviews):

Jill Stuart Brilliance Eyes in 04 Gem Amethyst
(The shades are sheerer and there are larger sparkles.)

T’Estimo Frame Impact Eyes in 03
(The lilac shades are cooler and there is a wider range of lighter and darker shades for a more intense look.)

Lavshuca Eye Color Select in PU-2
(This palette from Lavshuca’s fall 2007 collection is overall a slightly darker and warmer version of the Coffret D’Or one.)

Please feel free to leave your comment if you’d like to ask me for more comparisons among these palettes and shades!

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