makeup – base makeup

Jill Stuart Holiday 2008 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, October 15, 2008

in -Jill Stuart, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image and info from www.urcosme.com)

Like many other Japanese brands, Jill Stuart will release a makeup set for the holiday season.

The set will include an eye palette (Vintage Glaze), a lip gloss (Deep Bordeaux), a solid perfume ring, a hand mirror, and a vintage-style clutch bag.

As with all the limited-edition holiday items from Jill Stuart, I think this set will sell exceptionally well. So far, the Jill Stuart holiday set I have is from 2005 and is the brand’s first holiday collection. It includes a shimmery face powder (similar to Guerlain Meteorites) and a lip gloss, packaged in a little round box. You can see the items (minus the box) here.

The set will be released in Japan on November 21st (according to Rouge Deluxe) and in Taiwan on December 1st.

Also, Jill Stuart released a base makeup set in Taiwan. The contents differ slightly from those in the Japanese release, but the clutch bag in the set is the same. Please see the photos of the actual items on this Taiwanese blog.

Jill Stuart Fall 2008 Makeup Collection

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Liquid Foundation

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Sofina Primavista Powder Foundation Moist Touch

by PJ on Monday, October 13, 2008

in -Kao, -Primavista, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

(Sofina Primavista Powder Foundation Moist Touch:
Ochre 03 (left) and Ochre 05)

On September 1st, Sofina‘s Primavista was officially launched as Raycious went into history. Since Raycious had a solid fan base, I think many people have been looking forward to seeing how Primavista will live up to the expectation.

I received trial samples of Powder Foundation Moist Touch and the two primers (Smooth Coat Base and Bright Up Base) some time ago, and today I am sharing my thoughts on the foundation. (I will probably talk about the primers later.)

In short, if you like Raycious powder foundations (especially the later versions), you probably won’t have problems liking this one.

Regardless of how the powder is formulated and the new technologies involved in the production, Primavista’s first powder foundation performs similarly to ones from Raycious, in good ways and bad.

Generally, you will see the same strengths that made Raycious so popular. The staying power is very good and the color of the foundation does not turn dull overtime and pretty much lasts the whole day. However, the glowy finish might not suit people with oily skin or those who want powder foundations to work hard to make pores less visible. (This is the reason why I had to stop buying Raycious foundations as the later versions were too glowy for me.)

I use #22 in ZA Two-Way Foundation and find Ochre 05 a relatively good match.

Overall, I think this powder foundation will suit people with no problem with excessive sebum. But one interesting thing is that, back in the Raycious days, there were no powder foundations released for fall/winter. (It was always a liquid foundation.) So maybe we’ll see something slightly more matte and more sebum-absorbent in spring 2009. This fall/winter release is called Powder Foundation Moist Touch…maybe the spring/summer 2009 release will be (predictably) called Fresh Touch? We’ll see!

You can read another review of this foundation at Autumn Masquerade.

Sofina Primavista Creamy Compact Foundation

Creating Your New(ish) Foundation Refill

Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makup Collection

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Mineral Makup Review: Alima Cosmetics

by PJ on Friday, October 10, 2008

in makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, makeup - blusher, makeup - eyeshadow, mineral makeup

(Clockwise from top:
Color Balancing Powder in Buttercup,
Satin Finishing Powder in Keiko,
Satin Matte Blush in Tulip,
Pearluster Eyeshadow in Taupe
Luminous Shimmer Eyeshadow in Aubergine)

Among so many mineral makeup brands that have been trying to be part of the mineral movement, Alima is one of those that seem to have been noticed by many. Today I am reviewing its items for face, cheeks, and eyes.

– Color Balancing Powder in Buttercup

It is supposed to work as a primer and is applied before the (mineral) foundation. It is available in tinted yellow, lavender, pink, and green. Buttercup is the tinted-yellow one, and I’ve tried applying it as a primer before my ZA Two-Way Foundation. The powder does have a little bit of coverage and evens out the complexion to some extend, which means my foundation does not have to work that hard. However, like many mineral items for the face, it can dry out my skin, which I can feel after I take my makeup off in the evening. I prefer using it as a setting powder after my foundation. The matte finish helps control the shine although it does not happen to have any noticeable pore coverage.

– Satin Finishing Powder in Keiko

This is a fairly decent setting powder with a very softly luminous finish that doesn’t look shimmery. It is less matte and has less coverage than Color Balancing Powder but it has slightly more pore coverage. Keiko will suit light complexions.

– Satin Matte Blush in Tulip

Tulip is another item that will suit light complexions. It is nicely moderately pigmented, unlike some other mineral blushers which are too densely pigmented and are difficult to work with. The finish looks very natural, but I think it might look ashy on darker skin tones.

– Pearluster Eyeshadow in Taupe

Among all the mineral makeup items I have tried, I tend to like eyeshadows more than anything else. The two Alima eyeshadows I’ve tried continue the postive experience. (On the other hand, I think mineral foundations still have a lot of room for improvement in many respects.) Taupe has a very pearly and almost metallic shimmer. I usually wouldn’t go for such a finish, but, since this shade goes on only slightly darker than my skin tone without looking either too ashy/greyish or too bronze, the very pearly finish actually works fine for me. As a very subtle shading color, it gently adds depth to as well as brightens up my eyes.

– Luminous Shimmer Eyeshadow in Aubergine

Aubergine is a deep violet that works well as a lining shade and it can also be used to create an intense smoky-eye look. It is quite shimmery but noticeably less pearly/metallic than Taupe, which I will take to be the difference between the two eyeshadow ranges. Some violet shades can go greyish in hours, but I am relatively pleased with how Aubergine’s color and shimmery finish last.

Overall, I think the eyeshadows are good items to try if you are interested in testing out the brand. The good things about Alima’s on-line shop are that small samples are available for purchase and that the color swatches seem fairly accurate (based on the items reviewed above). Also, you can check the ingredient lists of all the products, which is particularly useful if you have very sensitive skin.

My “Mineral Makeup” category

ck Calvin Klein Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

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Sofina Primavista Creamy Compact Foundation

by PJ on Thursday, September 18, 2008

in -Kao, -Primavista, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.joseishi.net/voce/)

Back in the Raycious days, I don’t recall a creamy compact foundation being released. (The (remotely) closest product was probably the Stick Foundation, which has a cream-to-powder consistency.)

On October 14th, Primavista, Raycious’ successor, will release Creamy Compact Foundation (SPF 33, PA++), which follows the launch collection released on September 1st. It claims to be able to create a smoother and softer appearance for the skin.

My skin is usually too oily for any liquid or cream foundation, so I am not personally excited by this. (Bare in mind that many technically “oil-free” products use waxy substances instead to help the product glide, and they can feel equally greasy for people with oily skin.) But I will still be interested to read about feedback for any Primavista release.

Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

SUQQU Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

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Creating Your New(ish) Foundation Refill

by PJ on Wednesday, September 17, 2008

in -Shiseido, -ZA, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

I am sure many of you have been doing what I do with powder foundations, but since I was again making a new refill a couple of days ago, I thought I’d document it and share it with you.

Some of us who regularly use a powder foundation might find that, as we get towards the end of a refill, the application takes longer and longer as the sponge has to dig into the corners. It can be a bit of a pain, and we just want to open up a new refill.

Some years ago, with several nearly finished refills like those you see above (from different brands actually), I decided to try putting all the powder together and I was a little surprised to see how much powder was actually left on each tray. So I started to save somewhat finished refills to make a new one later. (I stopped pushing my sponge to the very end…)

The steps are what you see in the photos below:

1. Find a small (and perfectly clean) spoon or spatula. (I prefer a plastic one to a metal one.)

2. Start scraping! (Imagine that you are clearing the corners of a delicious Japanese bento box.)

3. Realize how much powder is still left.

4. Put all the leftover powder into one tray. (Here, I have powder from four nearly finished refills of ZA Two-Way Foundation.)

5. With your spoon/spatula, gently pat the powder down.

6. Lay a piece of tissue (which I have folded here) on top of the powder, and apply even and firm pressure with your fingers. Pay specific attention to the corners.

7. Reveal your (semi-)new refill! (The one here is about 75-80% full and will last quite a while for me.)

Tips:

1. Obviously the powder is not pressed to an industrial standard, so we have to be slightly more light-handed with the sponge than usual.

2. Sometimes our complexions can be between two shades with our favorite foundations, and sometimes we are happy with a shade but not the finish. These steps are good for customizing your own powder foundation, as you can mix and match from the same brand or different brands.

3. Make sure you store the nearly-finished refills in a clean/dry place just like your new ones. (I always save the refill boxes for this purpose.)

I hope you find this useful. If you have any related tip that you would like to share with us, do please post it in the comment section!

More beauty-related tips:

Can’t Live Without – Starbucks Napkins

Seasonal Sales on Cosmetics in the UK

Would you like some samples?

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Thoughts in Brief – Blusher, Primers, and Jasmin Noir

by PJ on Friday, September 12, 2008

in -Bulgari, -Chanel, -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - blusher

(Les Tissages de Chanel)
(image from www.iswii.net)

I came across some items I was looking forward to testing out in shops earlier this week, and here are my thoughts in brief. (I only tested them on the back of my hands, not on my face.)

– Chanel (Les Tissage de Chanel)

Those of you who find the Irréelle Blush range to be too sheer might be interested in knowing that the powder of this new range is soft and more pigmented. Among the four shades available at the moment, Pink (seen above) and Rose are more of my shades. But Pink is a little too Barbie-pink for me (it is brighter than the color seen above) and Rose is a little too warm for me. Plus, all shades come with gold flecks (I prefer matte blushers). I personally still prefer the Irréelle range and Les Tissages de Chanel is now off my shopping list for the moment.

Even though they are priced at 29 GBP, which is expensive, I think the smooth texture and the shimmer should still tempt many people.

– Paul & Joe (Moisturizing Foundation Primer)

As I was expecting, 01 and 02 seem similar to the previous versions (Foundation Primer N in 01 (reviewed earlier) and 02). I was under the impression that 03, the new shade, would be sheerer and more shimmery, but I wasn’t totally right. It goes on sheer, but it has more or less the same level of (subtle) shimmer as 01 and 02, which is good to know. It is supposed to further condition the skin without adding any color before your foundation and to help the foundation stay on longer.

However, even though the texture of all three shades are basically the same, 03 is formulated differently and has alcohol. It is a real shame. (I nearly decided to buy it.)

– Laura Mercier (Eye Basics)

I tried Eyebright (light blue) and Cotton (off-white cream). I was delighted with the light and almost fluffy texture. It was very easy to blend and I was impressed by how quickly and firmly it set. Also, it didn’t seem to budge, even under a bit of rain. It does seem to be water-resistant, as the Laura Mercier website claims.

– Bulgari (Jasmin Noir)

I like Bulgari’s Voile de Jasmin, and I was looking forward to the new Jasmin Noir. It is deeper and more intense, and it is more of an evening scent that is launched for the right season. It seems to be more complex than Voile de Jasmin and overall it feels less floral. It also smells far less of jasmine than Voile de Jasmin, which I think I like a lot better. (By the way, Harrods was launching B de Boucheron in the fragrance hall. I didn’t like it enough to want to buy it, but to me it was quite appealing.)

You can read more about both Jasmin Noir and B de Boucheron on Now Smell This. (It seems that the reviewer also thinks Jasmin Noir’s jasmine note is faint.)

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

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Kanebo Milano Collection 2009

by PJ on Friday, September 5, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Kanebo Milano Collection, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/milano-collection)

Milano Collection is an annual release of a luxury pressed powder and an eau de parfum from Kanebo. I believe it is only available in Asia.

The Milano Collection 2009 includes:

– Milano Collection 2009 Face Up Powder (SPF 14, PA ++)

The set retails for 12600 JPY. Cosme.Net also quotes 21000 JPY for the set plus an extra refill. The powder puff includes high-quality silk produced in Kyoto.

(image from www.cosme.net)

– Milano Collection 2009 Eau de Parfum

It is a rose-based scent which also features notes of cassis, apple, lemon, camomile, jasmine, melon, musk, and amber. It retails for 15750 JPY for 60ml.

This is a pre-order-only collection, and the pre-order period ends on September 19th. The eau de parfum will be available for collection on November 16th and the Face Up Powder will be available on December 16th.

You can see all the annual designs of the pressed powder from 1991 here.

My Foundation Routine

Sofina Raycious Case Galore

“An Unprecedented Masterpiece”: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

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Remembering Raycious

by PJ on Thursday, August 21, 2008

in -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Sofina Raycious Frosty Loose Powder (left)
and Ray Crush Powder (right))

As I mentioned previously, when Raycious didn’t release any new item for spring/summer 2008, I suspected that the line was going to be discontinued. When news about Sofina’s new base makeup line, Primavista, arrived last month, it was obvious the line would be Raycious’ successor.

As Sofina‘s webpage for Raycious has been updated with the official announcement that the sales of Raycious will be terminated on August 25th, I would like to take a look back at one of my favorite base makeup lines.

(This post is not meant to be a product review, since the items you see here (except Frosty Loose Powder, which I only have the case of) were released quite some time ago and are not sold anymore. Also, for hygiene reasons, I have not been using these items (apart from Ray Crush Powder).)

(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)

Raycious, debuted in 2000, is the base makeup line of Sofina. (Raycious is not a brand in itself. It is one of Sofina’s two base makeup lines, alongside Finefit.) Looking back, I think Raycious was one of the reasons why I started to be drawn into Japanese cosmetics (particularly foundations) because the line clearly offered something that western brands hadn’t come up with. (For more information on this (and on Sofina in general), please have a look at this previous post.)

One of Raycious’ best-selling products was the powder foundation, whose formula was updated every year (in spring). People seemed to either love it or hate it, and I wasn’t surprised. Raycious’ powder foundation didn’t try to please everyone, and I believe this was one of the reasons for its success. (I suppose when we try to please everyone, we please no one.)

(Glamorous Skin Powder, Raycious’ last powder foundation release,

along with a limited-edition pink case)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)

Raycious’ powder foundation is generally a lot more suitable for people with oily skin or people living in a warm climate. While people with dry skin can find it dry and chalky, those with oily skin (like me) tend to find it effective in sebum control. What I also love about it is that the foundation shade doesn’t darken or turn dull overtime. It is one of the very few foundations that wear better and better for me throughout the day. (By the way, Raycious’ powder foundations are meant to be applied dry and are not two-way foundations.)

The first few editions of the powder foundation are the ones I particularly love, as the finish of the later ones seems so luminous that it can look a little too glowy/shiny for me. However, their pressed powder and loose powder have constantly been part of my base makeup routine up until today (with all the extra refills I got). The Ray Crush Powder (seen above, on the right) was my sole favorite loose powder until I tried Lavshuca’s Face Powder (I now like both equally). The pressed powder does everything that a pressed powder should do in terms of gently mattifying the skin and diffusing the appearance of pores.

As I have alluded to, not all Raycious items are equally fantastic. For instance, people seem to complain that its liquid foundation (updated annually in fall) often lacks coverage.

One item I do also like is Stick Makeup, which is the kind of stick foundation that many major brands (both western and Japanese) were releasing one after another many years ago. The lovely cream-to-powder formula blends very easily and has a lovely matte and subtly luminous finish.

(great-looking skin in a stick)

On the other hand, Beads in Gels are not really for me. They are color-adjusting primers (available in soft green, blue and purple). The colored particles are crushed during the application to form a very subtle light-reflective pearlescence.

(They don’t really suit me…)

Unfortunately, they have quite a lot of alcohol. (This is fairly typical of Japanese primers.) I happened to get the one in blue (above the green one in the photo) in a gift with purchase (after I tried the green one), and I never opened it. It is still in the box in the unwrapped cellophane. It will probably always stay unopened in its “brand new in box” condition. A nice time-capsule candidate for the history of Japanese cosmetics, I suppose…

If you have also seen my Raycious foundation cases and pressed powder items, you have now seen pretty much all my Raycious collection…

Even though I think this is probably my last post on Raycious, I don’t think this is my last time mentioning the line. Various products from Raycious are among my favorite base makeup finds, and I am sure I will compare others with them in the future. In the meantime, let’s hope that Primavista will live up to the expectation of all the Raycious fans as well as surprise a few others!

Related Posts (my recent base makeup favorites):

ZA Two-Way Foundation

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

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SUQQU Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, August 19, 2008

in -SUQQU, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(SUQQU Dual Pressed Powder)
(all image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

SUQQU is renowned for its base makeup, and the brand will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on September 5th, 2008. (It should be available in the UK about a month later.)

The main new item is Dual Pressed Powder, which is essentially the pressed version of the two shades of Loose Powder released in fall 2007.

With the Loose Powder, the two shades (Natural and Deep) are meant to be used together. Natural is for the T-zone and the eye area as a subtle highlighter while Deep contours the face. I think this is how it works with the two shades (also named Natural and Deep) in Dual Pressed Powder as well.

All the parts (Natural (refill), Deep (refill), case, and brush) are sold separately.

If you simply want to see how the two shades work together and don’t care about the amount of powder you get, getting the pressed versions (even along with the case and the brush, all together 10500 JPY) will work out cheaper. (The Loose Powder costs 6300 JPY each (puff included).)

The fall 2008 release will also include a new shade for Powder Foundation Glow and Foundation (a cream foundation). Both products were first released in fall 2007. (Please see my review of Powder Foundation Glow here.)

(Powder Foundation Glow)

(Foundation)

SUQQU Fall 2008 Point Makeup Collection

Japanese Brand Profile – SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off: Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

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Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Sunday, August 17, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.iswii.net)

Here is the new promotional image for Paul & Joe‘s fall 2008 base makeup collection.

Generally, Paul & Joe’s base makeup items are revamped every two years or so. This season, it is the cream compact foundation and the fall/winter primer that will be updated:

– Creamy Powder Compact Foundation (6 shades, SPF 15, PA +)
– Moisturizing Foundation Primer (3 shades, SPF 12, PA +)

Two of the three shades of Moisturizing Foundation Primer will supposedly have more or less the same shades as the existing two (the neutral #01 (the one I have) and the slightly darker and warmer #02 ). #03 will be a new shade, which is translucent and with more shimmer than #01 and #02.

(Paul & Joe Moisturizing Foundation Primer)
(image from www.cosme.net)

There will also be three additions to the Face Color (blusher/highlighter/contourer) range, in 11 Rhapsody, 12 Chic, and 13 Bohemian.

(Paul & Joe Face Color in 13 Bohemian)
(image from www.iswii.net)

It is worth noting that, with Japanese brands, blushers are often released with base makeup items and they are sometimes categorized as part of the base makeup range. I think this reflects the Japanese aesthetics of everyday makeup, where, just like foundation, blushers are meant to look ultra-natural and barely noticeable. I will go back to this in another post later on.

The official release date of the Paul & Joe fall 2008 base makeup collection is September 5th in Japan and September 1st in Taiwan.

If you have your September 2008 Biteki with you, you might have noticed the October teaser. Like last October with Voce, the October 2008 issue of Biteki will come with a Paul & Joe pouch with samples of the new foundation and primer. I am not usually a creamy compact foundation user, but I will probably try the primer. If I do, I will certainly share my thoughts with you.

Updated on August 24, 2008:

Paul & Joe has updated its website.

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel vs. SUQQU

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