makeup – base makeup

Creating Your New(ish) Foundation Refill

by PJ on Wednesday, September 17, 2008

in -Shiseido, -ZA, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

I am sure many of you have been doing what I do with powder foundations, but since I was again making a new refill a couple of days ago, I thought I’d document it and share it with you.

Some of us who regularly use a powder foundation might find that, as we get towards the end of a refill, the application takes longer and longer as the sponge has to dig into the corners. It can be a bit of a pain, and we just want to open up a new refill.

Some years ago, with several nearly finished refills like those you see above (from different brands actually), I decided to try putting all the powder together and I was a little surprised to see how much powder was actually left on each tray. So I started to save somewhat finished refills to make a new one later. (I stopped pushing my sponge to the very end…)

The steps are what you see in the photos below:

1. Find a small (and perfectly clean) spoon or spatula. (I prefer a plastic one to a metal one.)

2. Start scraping! (Imagine that you are clearing the corners of a delicious Japanese bento box.)

3. Realize how much powder is still left.

4. Put all the leftover powder into one tray. (Here, I have powder from four nearly finished refills of ZA Two-Way Foundation.)

5. With your spoon/spatula, gently pat the powder down.

6. Lay a piece of tissue (which I have folded here) on top of the powder, and apply even and firm pressure with your fingers. Pay specific attention to the corners.

7. Reveal your (semi-)new refill! (The one here is about 75-80% full and will last quite a while for me.)

Tips:

1. Obviously the powder is not pressed to an industrial standard, so we have to be slightly more light-handed with the sponge than usual.

2. Sometimes our complexions can be between two shades with our favorite foundations, and sometimes we are happy with a shade but not the finish. These steps are good for customizing your own powder foundation, as you can mix and match from the same brand or different brands.

3. Make sure you store the nearly-finished refills in a clean/dry place just like your new ones. (I always save the refill boxes for this purpose.)

I hope you find this useful. If you have any related tip that you would like to share with us, do please post it in the comment section!

More beauty-related tips:

Can’t Live Without – Starbucks Napkins

Seasonal Sales on Cosmetics in the UK

Would you like some samples?

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Thoughts in Brief – Blusher, Primers, and Jasmin Noir

by PJ on Friday, September 12, 2008

in -Bulgari, -Chanel, -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - blusher

(Les Tissages de Chanel)
(image from www.iswii.net)

I came across some items I was looking forward to testing out in shops earlier this week, and here are my thoughts in brief. (I only tested them on the back of my hands, not on my face.)

– Chanel (Les Tissage de Chanel)

Those of you who find the Irréelle Blush range to be too sheer might be interested in knowing that the powder of this new range is soft and more pigmented. Among the four shades available at the moment, Pink (seen above) and Rose are more of my shades. But Pink is a little too Barbie-pink for me (it is brighter than the color seen above) and Rose is a little too warm for me. Plus, all shades come with gold flecks (I prefer matte blushers). I personally still prefer the Irréelle range and Les Tissages de Chanel is now off my shopping list for the moment.

Even though they are priced at 29 GBP, which is expensive, I think the smooth texture and the shimmer should still tempt many people.

– Paul & Joe (Moisturizing Foundation Primer)

As I was expecting, 01 and 02 seem similar to the previous versions (Foundation Primer N in 01 (reviewed earlier) and 02). I was under the impression that 03, the new shade, would be sheerer and more shimmery, but I wasn’t totally right. It goes on sheer, but it has more or less the same level of (subtle) shimmer as 01 and 02, which is good to know. It is supposed to further condition the skin without adding any color before your foundation and to help the foundation stay on longer.

However, even though the texture of all three shades are basically the same, 03 is formulated differently and has alcohol. It is a real shame. (I nearly decided to buy it.)

– Laura Mercier (Eye Basics)

I tried Eyebright (light blue) and Cotton (off-white cream). I was delighted with the light and almost fluffy texture. It was very easy to blend and I was impressed by how quickly and firmly it set. Also, it didn’t seem to budge, even under a bit of rain. It does seem to be water-resistant, as the Laura Mercier website claims.

– Bulgari (Jasmin Noir)

I like Bulgari’s Voile de Jasmin, and I was looking forward to the new Jasmin Noir. It is deeper and more intense, and it is more of an evening scent that is launched for the right season. It seems to be more complex than Voile de Jasmin and overall it feels less floral. It also smells far less of jasmine than Voile de Jasmin, which I think I like a lot better. (By the way, Harrods was launching B de Boucheron in the fragrance hall. I didn’t like it enough to want to buy it, but to me it was quite appealing.)

You can read more about both Jasmin Noir and B de Boucheron on Now Smell This. (It seems that the reviewer also thinks Jasmin Noir’s jasmine note is faint.)

Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert

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Kanebo Milano Collection 2009

by PJ on Friday, September 5, 2008

in -Kanebo, -Kanebo Milano Collection, 2008 Holiday, all about Japanese cosmetics, fragrance, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/milano-collection)

Milano Collection is an annual release of a luxury pressed powder and an eau de parfum from Kanebo. I believe it is only available in Asia.

The Milano Collection 2009 includes:

– Milano Collection 2009 Face Up Powder (SPF 14, PA ++)

The set retails for 12600 JPY. Cosme.Net also quotes 21000 JPY for the set plus an extra refill. The powder puff includes high-quality silk produced in Kyoto.

(image from www.cosme.net)

– Milano Collection 2009 Eau de Parfum

It is a rose-based scent which also features notes of cassis, apple, lemon, camomile, jasmine, melon, musk, and amber. It retails for 15750 JPY for 60ml.

This is a pre-order-only collection, and the pre-order period ends on September 19th. The eau de parfum will be available for collection on November 16th and the Face Up Powder will be available on December 16th.

You can see all the annual designs of the pressed powder from 1991 here.

My Foundation Routine

Sofina Raycious Case Galore

“An Unprecedented Masterpiece”: SUQQU Clear Veil Powder

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Remembering Raycious

by PJ on Thursday, August 21, 2008

in -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Sofina Raycious Frosty Loose Powder (left)
and Ray Crush Powder (right))

As I mentioned previously, when Raycious didn’t release any new item for spring/summer 2008, I suspected that the line was going to be discontinued. When news about Sofina’s new base makeup line, Primavista, arrived last month, it was obvious the line would be Raycious’ successor.

As Sofina‘s webpage for Raycious has been updated with the official announcement that the sales of Raycious will be terminated on August 25th, I would like to take a look back at one of my favorite base makeup lines.

(This post is not meant to be a product review, since the items you see here (except Frosty Loose Powder, which I only have the case of) were released quite some time ago and are not sold anymore. Also, for hygiene reasons, I have not been using these items (apart from Ray Crush Powder).)

(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)

Raycious, debuted in 2000, is the base makeup line of Sofina. (Raycious is not a brand in itself. It is one of Sofina’s two base makeup lines, alongside Finefit.) Looking back, I think Raycious was one of the reasons why I started to be drawn into Japanese cosmetics (particularly foundations) because the line clearly offered something that western brands hadn’t come up with. (For more information on this (and on Sofina in general), please have a look at this previous post.)

One of Raycious’ best-selling products was the powder foundation, whose formula was updated every year (in spring). People seemed to either love it or hate it, and I wasn’t surprised. Raycious’ powder foundation didn’t try to please everyone, and I believe this was one of the reasons for its success. (I suppose when we try to please everyone, we please no one.)

(Glamorous Skin Powder, Raycious’ last powder foundation release,

along with a limited-edition pink case)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)

Raycious’ powder foundation is generally a lot more suitable for people with oily skin or people living in a warm climate. While people with dry skin can find it dry and chalky, those with oily skin (like me) tend to find it effective in sebum control. What I also love about it is that the foundation shade doesn’t darken or turn dull overtime. It is one of the very few foundations that wear better and better for me throughout the day. (By the way, Raycious’ powder foundations are meant to be applied dry and are not two-way foundations.)

The first few editions of the powder foundation are the ones I particularly love, as the finish of the later ones seems so luminous that it can look a little too glowy/shiny for me. However, their pressed powder and loose powder have constantly been part of my base makeup routine up until today (with all the extra refills I got). The Ray Crush Powder (seen above, on the right) was my sole favorite loose powder until I tried Lavshuca’s Face Powder (I now like both equally). The pressed powder does everything that a pressed powder should do in terms of gently mattifying the skin and diffusing the appearance of pores.

As I have alluded to, not all Raycious items are equally fantastic. For instance, people seem to complain that its liquid foundation (updated annually in fall) often lacks coverage.

One item I do also like is Stick Makeup, which is the kind of stick foundation that many major brands (both western and Japanese) were releasing one after another many years ago. The lovely cream-to-powder formula blends very easily and has a lovely matte and subtly luminous finish.

(great-looking skin in a stick)

On the other hand, Beads in Gels are not really for me. They are color-adjusting primers (available in soft green, blue and purple). The colored particles are crushed during the application to form a very subtle light-reflective pearlescence.

(They don’t really suit me…)

Unfortunately, they have quite a lot of alcohol. (This is fairly typical of Japanese primers.) I happened to get the one in blue (above the green one in the photo) in a gift with purchase (after I tried the green one), and I never opened it. It is still in the box in the unwrapped cellophane. It will probably always stay unopened in its “brand new in box” condition. A nice time-capsule candidate for the history of Japanese cosmetics, I suppose…

If you have also seen my Raycious foundation cases and pressed powder items, you have now seen pretty much all my Raycious collection…

Even though I think this is probably my last post on Raycious, I don’t think this is my last time mentioning the line. Various products from Raycious are among my favorite base makeup finds, and I am sure I will compare others with them in the future. In the meantime, let’s hope that Primavista will live up to the expectation of all the Raycious fans as well as surprise a few others!

Related Posts (my recent base makeup favorites):

ZA Two-Way Foundation

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

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SUQQU Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, August 19, 2008

in -SUQQU, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(SUQQU Dual Pressed Powder)
(all image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

SUQQU is renowned for its base makeup, and the brand will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on September 5th, 2008. (It should be available in the UK about a month later.)

The main new item is Dual Pressed Powder, which is essentially the pressed version of the two shades of Loose Powder released in fall 2007.

With the Loose Powder, the two shades (Natural and Deep) are meant to be used together. Natural is for the T-zone and the eye area as a subtle highlighter while Deep contours the face. I think this is how it works with the two shades (also named Natural and Deep) in Dual Pressed Powder as well.

All the parts (Natural (refill), Deep (refill), case, and brush) are sold separately.

If you simply want to see how the two shades work together and don’t care about the amount of powder you get, getting the pressed versions (even along with the case and the brush, all together 10500 JPY) will work out cheaper. (The Loose Powder costs 6300 JPY each (puff included).)

The fall 2008 release will also include a new shade for Powder Foundation Glow and Foundation (a cream foundation). Both products were first released in fall 2007. (Please see my review of Powder Foundation Glow here.)

(Powder Foundation Glow)

(Foundation)

SUQQU Fall 2008 Point Makeup Collection

Japanese Brand Profile – SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off: Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

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Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Sunday, August 17, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.iswii.net)

Here is the new promotional image for Paul & Joe‘s fall 2008 base makeup collection.

Generally, Paul & Joe’s base makeup items are revamped every two years or so. This season, it is the cream compact foundation and the fall/winter primer that will be updated:

– Creamy Powder Compact Foundation (6 shades, SPF 15, PA +)
– Moisturizing Foundation Primer (3 shades, SPF 12, PA +)

Two of the three shades of Moisturizing Foundation Primer will supposedly have more or less the same shades as the existing two (the neutral #01 (the one I have) and the slightly darker and warmer #02 ). #03 will be a new shade, which is translucent and with more shimmer than #01 and #02.

(Paul & Joe Moisturizing Foundation Primer)
(image from www.cosme.net)

There will also be three additions to the Face Color (blusher/highlighter/contourer) range, in 11 Rhapsody, 12 Chic, and 13 Bohemian.

(Paul & Joe Face Color in 13 Bohemian)
(image from www.iswii.net)

It is worth noting that, with Japanese brands, blushers are often released with base makeup items and they are sometimes categorized as part of the base makeup range. I think this reflects the Japanese aesthetics of everyday makeup, where, just like foundation, blushers are meant to look ultra-natural and barely noticeable. I will go back to this in another post later on.

The official release date of the Paul & Joe fall 2008 base makeup collection is September 5th in Japan and September 1st in Taiwan.

If you have your September 2008 Biteki with you, you might have noticed the October teaser. Like last October with Voce, the October 2008 issue of Biteki will come with a Paul & Joe pouch with samples of the new foundation and primer. I am not usually a creamy compact foundation user, but I will probably try the primer. If I do, I will certainly share my thoughts with you.

Updated on August 24, 2008:

Paul & Joe has updated its website.

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel vs. SUQQU

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EST Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, August 5, 2008

in -Est, -Kao, -Sofina, 2008 Fall, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

EST (owned by Kao) will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on August 23. The lineup will include:

– Powder Makeup Visually Moist (6 shades, SPF 20, PA++)
– Perfect Base Fresh Touch (SPF 15, PA ++)
– Perfect Base Moist Touch (SPF 10, PA+)

The Fresh Touch primer is a liquid-type sebum-controlling primer, while the Moist Touch primer is cream-based and provides extra moisture for the skin.

All items are fragrance-free.

Also, the EST website has been updated to feature the fall 2008 point makeup collection.

Related Posts:

Capturing Your Emotional Beauty
(EST Brand Profile)

EST Fall 2008 Point Makeup Collection

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Kanebo Dew Superior Base Makeup Debut

by PJ on Thursday, July 31, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image form www.nikkei.co.jp)

Dew Superior is a high-end line sold at Kanebo counters in many Asian countries. (A brief profile of the line follows below.) On October 16, Dew Superior will launch its base makeup range in Japan. The lineup includes:

– Pact Concentrate (powder foundation, 6 shades, SPF 23, PA++)
– Liquid Concentrate (liquid foundation, 6 shades, SPF 19, PA++)
– Pre-Make Concentrate (moisturizing primer, SPF 16, PA++)
– Finish Concentrate (loose powder, 1 shade)
– Designing Concentrate (highlighter/contourer, 1 variation)

(Earlier this year, the line also launched two primers, Protect Essence Concentrate I and II, both of which have SPF 26 and PA++.)

Dew Superior was launched in 2007 to replace the original Dew line, which debuted in 2004. Dew used to carry a range of base makeup as well as skincare items, but Dew Superior was launched with skincare items only. The line’s main claim is to bring moisture and elasticity to the skin, and the target consumers are those in their late twenties and above. In line with the main selling point of the skincare items, the new base makeup line claims to have moisturizing properties which help give the skin a glowy look.

(www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/dewsuperior/)

I have only used trail samples of a toner and a moisturizer from the original Dew line. Perhaps not too surprisingly, they both contained too much alcohol to do anything positive to my skin. I doubt Dew Superior is very much different in this aspect. (As I mentioned before, even though there are some Japanese skincare products that work well for me, the allure of Japanese cosmetics for me lies mainly in base and point makeup, not in skincare.)

There are a couple of loose/pressed powder items on my shopping list at the moment, so I will probably skip Finish Concentrate. But if you are looking for foundations that have a dewy/glowy finish, then some of these products might worth looking into.

Other upcoming base makeup items:

Kanebo Coffret D’Or

Shiseido Maquillage

Sofina Primavista

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Exuding Quality – Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

by PJ on Wednesday, July 30, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder)

Coffret D’Or released its debut base makeup collection earlier this year, and this loose powder is part of the lineup. It may not be the best loose powder I have ever used, but it is a lot better than almost all others that I have talked about on my blog.

The refill and the case are sold separately. (The case comes with a nice fluffy puff.) There is no sifter in the refill so you will need a case (any case) for an easier application. I have a couple of loose powder cases, but I decided to get both the case and the refill.

The sifter is designed in such a way that the powder can easily go in and out of the case (if you want to remove some into a smaller container for travelling). A very nice touch.

Currently the powder is available in one shade. It is a semi-translucent off-white powder with the slightest hint of pink. It has very fine shimmer but it doesn’t really show up very much when applied. The overall finish is semi-matte and gently luminous.

What I like the most about this loose powder is that it is nearly impossible to over-apply it. The powder is very fine and seems to melt into the skin, and there is no chalkiness even after some layering.

Even though, for my oily skin, Lavshuca’s Face Powder (in Lucent, currently my favorite loose powder) has a better pore-diffusing and oil-absorbing efficacy, Coffret D’Or’s loose powder does well enough in both areas to be a suitable product for me. But I would probably use it more in colder months.

Overall, I think this powder should appeal to various skin types. People with combination or oily skin will appreciate how it subtly mattifies the skin, while those with drier skin will probably like how it effortlessly merges with the skin without looking powdery. I think this is one of the products that show off the great quality in Japanese brands’ base makeup items.

(You can see another review of this loose powder at Autumn Masquerade.)

Foundation Face-Off: Coffret D’Or vs. Lunasol

L’Oréal True Match Super-Blendable Powder

ck Calvin Klein Mineral Based Loose Powder

Can’t Live Without – ZA Two-Way Foundation

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Kanebo Impress Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, July 22, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo‘s top-end line Impress (a brief brand profile follows below) will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection on September 5th. The collection includes:

– Liquid Foundation (SPF 18, PA++)
– Pressed Powder (case and puff sold separately)
– Color Powder N

Impress currently features a skincare and a base makeup line, and the prices reflect the top-end status. The Impress Emulsion (in the skincare line) costs 12600 JPY (about 118 USD) and the Powder Foundation refill costs 9450 JPY (about 89 USD). The Liquid Foundation above also costs 12600 JPY.

The recent introduction of Impress IC, a sub-line of Impress, seems to have attracted more press interest in Japan than the launch of Impress a couple of years ago. Impress IC currently has two skincare ranges, Revitalizing and White, and the White range also features a makeup base and a powder foundation.

IC stands for Intensive Care. In usual marketing practices, the name would suggest an even higher price-point, but it is not the case here. Impress IC products are up to half the prices of the Impress equivalents and they are similarly priced to products from Lunasol. (The Impress IC White Powder Foundation refill costs 4725 JPY (about 44 USD), which is only slightly more expensive than a refill of Lunasol’s Skin Fusing Powder Foudation (4200 JPY, about 39 USD)). They are still quite pricey but are a lot more affordable than those from the main Impress line.

(Perhaps more surprisingly, the Impress Powder Foundation case (3150 JPY, about 30 USD) is three times more expensive than the Impress IC White Powder Foundation case.)

As far as I know, Impress is available in Japan, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. (Please let me know if it is also available where you are.)

If you are interested in Impress Powder Foundation and Impress IC White Powder Foundation, please check out the review on Autumn Masquerade.

Other upcoming collections from fall 2008:

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