makeup – base makeup

Part 2: When are they coming out?

(Sofina Primavista’s spring/summer 2009
base makeup lineup)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/primavista)

Partly due to the speed of development in Japanese base makeup (and partly due to marketing tactics), the frequency in which a brand’s base makeup products get updated is a lot higher than that of most western brands.

Many major Japanese beauty brands release two base makeup collections a year. Spring/summer releases are usually in March and April, and fall/winter releases are usually in September and October. (They are more or less released two months after the seasonal point makeup collections are available.)

The size of the collection varies. Sometimes there are just a couple of items (perhaps a new foundation and a primer), and sometimes there can be a major collection revamp.

Very often, when a new product is launched, the existing equivelant will be discontinued. This means that a Japanese base makeup product can sometimes only be available for 12 months. (This is especially the case with some department store brands.) For example, during the Raycious era (2000 – 2007), a new powder foundation was released every March and the previous version would be discontinued. Not all the products are updated at this rate, but many do get revamped about every other year.

So, on the whole, every six months, a base makeup collection goes through an update, and possibly a few products are phased out. (One obvious exception would be a new base make range whose lineup is still growing, like Primavista.) My suggestion is that, if you discover a Japanese base makeup product that you can’t live without, consider picking up some extras. (The next version might not suit you equally.)

There are some general differences between spring/summer and fall/winter releases. Spring/summer releases tend to have higher SPF and PA. They are often more sweat-resistant and are better at sebum-control, and the finish is often slightly more matte. Sometimes, the coverage is more on the natural side.

Fall/winter releases usually have a more emollient texture. The foundations sometimes have more coverage, and the finish is more luminous. The primers tend to be for further moisturizing the skin.

It can be quite useful to know in which season a product (particularly a foundation) is released. In Japan, there is quite a big temperature difference between summer and winter. If you have combination or oily skin and you happen to live in a tropical or sub-tropical climate, you probably don’t need a very emollient cream foundation (even though it might be a best seller in Japan.)

(Though the choice of a powder foundation or a liquid/cream foundation is often a matter of preference, I tend to suggest powder foundations for people with combination or oily skin. I think those with normal or drier skin do have more choices. Liquid/cream foundations would generally work fine, and there are some powder foundations with a very smooth and velvety texture that can work very well on dry skin even without a primer.)

Apart from regularly checking the official websites of Japanese beauty brands, Japanese beauty magazines offer great editorial content on new base makeup releases. Biteki runs a major base makeup feature twice a year (usually in the May and October issues). Voce’s popular monthly feature, “Voce Experiment” regularly tests out the latest foundations. Even if you don’t read Japanese, these features are usually abundant in photos of new products.

Tomorrow, I will touch upon the choice of foundation shade.

Related posts:

SUQQU Base Makeup Kit

Esprique Precious Spring/Summer 2009 Base Makeup Collection

Japanese Base Makeup Week (Part 1)

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Part 1: Why Japanese?

(from Kanebo Coffret d’Or via YouTube)
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Many years ago, I read an article on Japanese base makeup, which mentioned that the technologies in Japan involved in producing base makeup were about a decade ahead of those of most western brands. While it is not easy to prove this (and whether it is still true today), I do feel that Japanese base makeup items are constantly out-doing their western counterparts.

It seems that we can draw inferences from the cultural side of things. I have often heard that, if one can only choose to wear one makeup item for the day, a western consumer is likely to choose a mascara (or an eyeliner). On the other hand, a Japanese consumer would go for a foundation. (It can be a sweeping generalization, but I do find some truth in it.)

From the articles written by Kaoru Saito, a Japanese beauty expert, it seems that Japanese people perceive having shine and open pores in public as something impolite. Having a fresh and impeccable complexion, free from shine and open pores, seems to be part of the social etiquette. (Maybe this is why there are a lot more products (mainly primers) that tackle these two issues in Japanese beauty brands.)

In this case, it is the consumers’ needs that drive product research and innovation, and the result is products that work better.

I have oily skin and almost always use a powder foundation, and I think I probably want quite a lot from it. I want it to have a fair amount of coverage but to still look natural. I want it to cancel out mild redness, conceal pores, control sebum and last throughout the day. The powder should have a smooth texture, and the finish should be predominantly matte.

Generally, I find that Japanese foundations cancel out mild redness and conceal pores considerably more effectively than western ones. Also, the foundations I have tried that have a good sebum-control efficacy are all from Japanese lines. So, based on personal experience, I’d say that Japanese base makeup products generally perform a lot better.

(I have less experience with liquid/cream foundations. If you have any observation on how Japanese products fare with western ones, please do let me know your thoughts.)

In the next few days, I will talk briefly about the rhythm of product releases in Japanese base makeup, how to choose the right shade, some Japanese beauty brands that are particularly known for base makeup, and some of my personal favorites and recommendations. Do come back!

(The ad on top of this post is the TV ad for Coffret D’Or’s latest powder foundation, Lasting Power Pact UV. It was officially out on March 1st and is something I am interested in trying.)

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Continue reading the series:

Part 2: When are they coming out?

Part 3: Which one is my shade?

Part 4: Which brand shall I look into?

Part 5: My Favorites (& Yours)

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Related posts:

Western vs. Japanese…Who’s Winning?

All About Japanese Cosmetics

“Japanese Brand Profile” Series

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(image from www.biteki.com)

YSL will be releasing the spring/summer 2009 base makeup items in Japan on March 6th.

Matt Touch Compact Foundation SPF 20 has already been launched in the US. I didn’t see it the last time I walked past my local YSL counter, and I am looking forward to seeing it soon.


(image from www.cosme.net)

YSL’s Tient de Pearle (from nearly 10 years ago) is one of the very few foundations from western beauty brands that I actually liked. Even though it was not among the most sebum-controlling powder foundations for my oily skin, the powder was so silky and smooth that I did enjoy using it. I am hoping that Matt Touch will have a similar smooth texture with better sebum control. (Plus, Matt Touch is housed in a similar case to the opulent golden case for Tient de Pearle.)

In addition, YSL will release Matt Touch Radiant Base, in three color-adjusting shades, with SPF 12 and PA++.

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To me, one of the most fascinating aspects of Japanese cosmetics is the generally outstanding quality of the base makeup*.

In the first week of March, I will be posting five articles on Japanese base makeup. These posts are largely based on the questions that I have often been asked in the past two years by readers new to or interested in Japanese makeup. I hope these articles will be helpful to some of you as well as any future reader who might have similar questions.

The first article will go up on Monday March 2nd. If you have any question on Japanese base makeup or suggestions on what you would like to see covered, please feel free to leave a comment or send me an e-mail.

Thank you very much, and stay tuned!

* In Japan, “base makeup” (or “base make”) refers to items applied before any color is added. They include primers, concealers, foundations, highlighting/contouring items, and loose/pressed powder. With some Japanese brands, they can also include delicately pigmented blushers.

Items featured in the photo:

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Foundation

Paul & Joe Light Cream Foundation

Anna Sui Fluid Foundation

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(images and info from www.cosme.net)

Earlier this month, I posted information on SUQQU‘s Base Makeup Kit, which will be released in Japan on March 6th.

Since then, a few readers have asked me whether the kit will be available in the SUQQU counter in London’s Selfridges. According to SUQQU, the limited-edition Base Makeup Kit will be available at Selfridges from May 7th. It is priced at £60, and customers will be able to choose among the six shades of Liquid Foundation Aqua, which is included in the kit.

Please check the link above to see the contents of the Base Makeup Kit.

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(image from www.nikkei.co.jp,
info from www.nikkei.co.jp
and www.joseishi.net/voce)

The Kosé-owned Esprique Precious will release the spring/summer 2009 base makeup collection in Japan on February 16th, 2009. The collection includes:

Dramatical Stay Pact UV EX (7 shades, SPF 25, PA++)
Dramatical Stay Base (SPF 20, PA++)
Face Styling Powder (for creating highlight and lowlight)
Cleansing Lotion (makeup removal water)

According to Nikkei Net, Kosé has developed the new Film Fix Powder to be used in the new version of Dramatical Stay Pact UV (out in spring 2008). The powder particles are designed to have enhanced lipophilic and hydrophilic properties. Instead of fighting against perspiration and sebum, which are the two main issues in wearing a foundation in summer, Film Fix Powder is supposed to merge seamless with them so the finish stays even overtime.

According to Voce, Film Fix Powder will work hand in hand with Pure Cover Powder (for natural coverage) and Zero Shine Powder (for translucency) in Dramatical Stay Pact UV EX.

Related posts:

Esprique Precious Spring 2009 Point Makeup Collection

Esprique Precious Holiday 2008 Collection

Coffret D’Or Spring/Summer 2009 Base Makeup Collection

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Plum is not really one of my favorite makeup colors to wear, as it is a little too warm and dark for my complexion. (I prefer more purple shades for eyes and slightly lighter shades for lips.) But I do have a few plum-colored sweaters and scarves, which I enjoy wearing in winter.

For me, plum is a beautiful color to look at. I love its richness and elegance as well as its understated femininity.

Makeup
Lavshuca Jewelry Lips
Lavshuca Face Powder in Lucent
MAC Paint Pot in Nice Vice (from the Fafi collection)
Prescriptives Colorscope Eye Color in plum (right of photo)
Prescriptives Colorscope Eye Color in Aubergine (bottom of photo)

Fragrance
Stella McCartney STELLA Eau de Parfum
Stella McCartney Sheer STELLA Eau de Toilette 2004 & 2005

Bodycare
Stella McCartney STELLA Precious Body Cream
ESPA Detoxifying Salt Scrub (to be reviewed next month)

Home Fragrance
Stella McCartney STELLA Scented Candle

More Splashes of Colors:

Gorgeous Gold


Lilting Lilac


Girlie Pink

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The Kanebo website has posted images of Lavshuca’s spring 2009 items. The various Grade Color Eyes palettes are what I am particularly interested in.

(PK-1)
(images from www.kanebo-cosmetics.co.jp)
(BR-1)

(BR-2)
(GN-1)
(PU-1)

PU-1 looks very cool-toned to me here. It looks more lilac-y on the February 2009 issues of Biteki and Voce, but I still think the second darkest shade, supposedly the main shade for the lids, looks a little too pale for my liking. I will probably not go for this.

(Finish Powder)

The dark-plum lid of the new loose powder is not surprising, since plum is currently the main color for Lavshuca’s packaging. Even though it looks quite elegant (and there is still the puff with the cute bow), I would have liked a slightly more ornate case. The current Face Powder is available in Lucent (which I have) and Glow, and the new Finish Powder will be available in Lucent and High Cover. I am still intrigued in how High Cover performs.

Related posts:

A Splash of Color – Girlie Pink

Lavshuca Cheek Color in PK-1

Lavshuca Jewelry Lips

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(image and info from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Earlier I posted a link to an image of Coffret D’Or’s spring/summer base makeup collection as well as my initial thoughts. Now, here is more information on the individual items:

– Lasting Power Pact UV (7 shades, SPF 22, PA++)
– Lasting Power Soft Gel Foundation UV (7 shades, SPF 23, PA++)
– Lasting Power Veil UV (primer)
– Magical Flat (pore-smoothing concealer)
– One-Touch Gloss Powder (loose powder with a brush applicator)

The collection will be out in Japan on March 1st, 2009.

Related posts:

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

Coffret D’Or Spring 2009 Point Makeup Collection

Coffret D’Or Trance Deep Eyes in Rose Variation

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(images and info from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Sofina Primavistawill release its spring/summer 2009 base makeup collection in Japan on February 21st. The lineup includes:Powder Foundation Long Keep (SPF 25, PA++)

Liquid Foundation (SPF 25, PA ++)

Clear Cover Base (SPF 20, PA ++)

Concealer Spots Cover (SPF 27, PA++)

Face Powder Keep & Reset (SPF 15, PA++)

Primavista’s first powder foundation from fall/winter 2008, Powder Foundation Moist Touch, doesn’t really suit me due to its glowy finish. I am expecting the Fresh Keep version to have a somewhat similar (or very slightly less glowy) finish and better sebum control.

The new Face Powder reminds me of the very first version of Raycious’ pressed powder, which has a very good matte flesh-toned powder and a highlighter. I will be putting the new Primavista version on my spring 2009 shopping list and I am hoping that it works just as well.

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Updated on February 17th, 2015:

Read my review of Face Powder (Keep & Reset).

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Related Posts:

Sofina Primavista Creamy Compact Foundation

Sofina Raycious Foundation Case Galore

Holiday Flashback – Sofina Aube Astral Rouge

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