makeup – base makeup

Remembering Raycious

by PJ on Thursday, August 21, 2008

in -Kao, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Sofina Raycious Frosty Loose Powder (left)
and Ray Crush Powder (right))

As I mentioned previously, when Raycious didn’t release any new item for spring/summer 2008, I suspected that the line was going to be discontinued. When news about Sofina’s new base makeup line, Primavista, arrived last month, it was obvious the line would be Raycious’ successor.

As Sofina‘s webpage for Raycious has been updated with the official announcement that the sales of Raycious will be terminated on August 25th, I would like to take a look back at one of my favorite base makeup lines.

(This post is not meant to be a product review, since the items you see here (except Frosty Loose Powder, which I only have the case of) were released quite some time ago and are not sold anymore. Also, for hygiene reasons, I have not been using these items (apart from Ray Crush Powder).)

(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious, debuted in 2000, is the base makeup line of Sofina. (Raycious is not a brand in itself. It is one of Sofina’s two base makeup lines, alongside Finefit.) Looking back, I think Raycious was one of the reasons why I started to be drawn into Japanese cosmetics (particularly foundations) because the line clearly offered something that western brands hadn’t come up with. (For more information on this (and on Sofina in general), please have a look at this previous post.)

One of Raycious’ best-selling products was the powder foundation, whose formula was updated every year (in spring). People seemed to either love it or hate it, and I wasn’t surprised. Raycious’ powder foundation didn’t try to please everyone, and I believe this was one of the reasons for its success. (I suppose when we try to please everyone, we please no one.)

(Glamorous Skin Powder, Raycious’ last powder foundation release,
along with a limited-edition pink case)
(image from www.sofina.co.jp/raycious)


Raycious’ powder foundation is generally a lot more suitable for people with oily skin or people living in a warm climate. While people with dry skin can find it dry and chalky, those with oily skin (like me) tend to find it effective in sebum control. What I also love about it is that the foundation shade doesn’t darken or turn dull overtime. It is one of the very few foundations that wear better and better for me throughout the day. (By the way, Raycious’ powder foundations are meant to be applied dry and are not two-way foundations.)

The first few editions of the powder foundation are the ones I particularly love, as the finish of the later ones seems so luminous that it can look a little too glowy/shiny for me. However, their pressed powder and loose powder have constantly been part of my base makeup routine up until today (with all the extra refills I got). The Ray Crush Powder (seen above, on the right) was my sole favorite loose powder until I tried Lavshuca’s Face Powder (I now like both equally). The pressed powder does everything that a pressed powder should do in terms of gently mattifying the skin and diffusing the appearance of pores.

As I have alluded to, not all Raycious items are equally fantastic. For instance, people seem to complain that its liquid foundation (updated annually in fall) often lacks coverage.

One item I do also like is Stick Makeup, which is the kind of stick foundation that many major brands (both western and Japanese) were releasing one after another many years ago. The lovely cream-to-powder formula blends very easily and has a lovely matte and subtly luminous finish.

(great-looking skin in a stick)
On the other hand, Beads in Gels are not really for me. They are color-adjusting primers (available in soft green, blue and purple). The colored particles are crushed during the application to form a very subtle light-reflective pearlescence.
(They don’t really suit me…)


Unfortunately, they have quite a lot of alcohol. (This is fairly typical of Japanese primers.) I happened to get the one in blue (above the green one in the photo) in a gift with purchase (after I tried the green one), and I never opened it. It is still in the box in the unwrapped cellophane. It will probably always stay unopened in its “brand new in box” condition. A nice time-capsule candidate for the history of Japanese cosmetics, I suppose…

If you have also seen my Raycious foundation cases and pressed powder items, you have now seen pretty much all my Raycious collection…

Even though I think this is probably my last post on Raycious, I don’t think this is my last time mentioning the line. Various products from Raycious are among my favorite base makeup finds, and I am sure I will compare others with them in the future. In the meantime, let’s hope that Primavista will live up to the expectation of all the Raycious fans as well as surprise a few others!

Related Posts (my recent base makeup favorites):

ZA Two-Way Foundation

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

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SUQQU Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, August 19, 2008

in -SUQQU, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(SUQQU Dual Pressed Powder)
(all image from www.suqqu.com/japan.html)

SUQQU is renowned for its base makeup, and the brand will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on September 5th, 2008. (It should be available in the UK about a month later.)

The main new item is Dual Pressed Powder, which is essentially the pressed version of the two shades of Loose Powder released in fall 2007.

With the Loose Powder, the two shades (Natural and Deep) are meant to be used together. Natural is for the T-zone and the eye area as a subtle highlighter while Deep contours the face. I think this is how it works with the two shades (also named Natural and Deep) in Dual Pressed Powder as well.

All the parts (Natural (refill), Deep (refill), case, and brush) are sold separately.

If you simply want to see how the two shades work together and don’t care about the amount of powder you get, getting the pressed versions (even along with the case and the brush, all together 10500 JPY) will work out cheaper. (The Loose Powder costs 6300 JPY each (puff included).)

The fall 2008 release will also include a new shade for Powder Foundation Glow and Foundation (a cream foundation). Both products were first released in fall 2007. (Please see my review of Powder Foundation Glow here.)

(Powder Foundation Glow)

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Paul & Joe Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Sunday, August 17, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.iswii.net)

Here is the new promotional image for Paul & Joe‘s fall 2008 base makeup collection.

Generally, Paul & Joe’s base makeup items are revamped every two years or so. This season, it is the cream compact foundation and the fall/winter primer that will be updated:

– Creamy Powder Compact Foundation (6 shades, SPF 15, PA +)
– Moisturizing Foundation Primer (3 shades, SPF 12, PA +)

Two of the three shades of Moisturizing Foundation Primer will supposedly have more or less the same shades as the existing two (the neutral #01 (the one I have) and the slightly darker and warmer #02 ). #03 will be a new shade, which is translucent and with more shimmer than #01 and #02.

(Paul & Joe Moisturizing Foundation Primer)
(image from www.cosme.net)


There will also be three additions to the Face Color (blusher/highlighter/contourer) range, in 11 Rhapsody, 12 Chic, and 13 Bohemian.

(Paul & Joe Face Color in 13 Bohemian)
(image from www.iswii.net)

It is worth noting that, with Japanese brands, blushers are often released with base makeup items and they are sometimes categorized as part of the base makeup range. I think this reflects the Japanese aesthetics of everyday makeup, where, just like foundation, blushers are meant to look ultra-natural and barely noticeable. I will go back to this in another post later on.

The official release date of the Paul & Joe fall 2008 base makeup collection is September 5th in Japan and September 1st in Taiwan.

If you have your September 2008 Biteki with you, you might have noticed the October teaser. Like last October with Voce, the October 2008 issue of Biteki will come with a Paul & Joe pouch with samples of the new foundation and primer. I am not usually a creamy compact foundation user, but I will probably try the primer. If I do, I will certainly share my thoughts with you.

Updated on August 24, 2008:

Paul & Joe has updated its website.

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe

Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

Foundation Face-Off: Chanel vs. SUQQU

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EST Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, August 5, 2008

in -Est, -Kao, -Sofina, 2008 Fall, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

EST (owned by Kao) will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on August 23. The lineup will include:

– Powder Makeup Visually Moist (6 shades, SPF 20, PA++)
– Perfect Base Fresh Touch (SPF 15, PA ++)
– Perfect Base Moist Touch (SPF 10, PA+)

The Fresh Touch primer is a liquid-type sebum-controlling primer, while the Moist Touch primer is cream-based and provides extra moisture for the skin.

All items are fragrance-free.

Also, the EST website has been updated to feature the fall 2008 point makeup collection.

Related Posts:

Capturing Your Emotional Beauty
(EST Brand Profile)

EST Fall 2008 Point Makeup Collection

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Kanebo Dew Superior Base Makeup Debut

by PJ on Thursday, July 31, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image form www.nikkei.co.jp)

Dew Superior is a high-end line sold at Kanebo counters in many Asian countries. (A brief profile of the line follows below.) On October 16, Dew Superior will launch its base makeup range in Japan. The lineup includes:

– Pact Concentrate (powder foundation, 6 shades, SPF 23, PA++)
– Liquid Concentrate (liquid foundation, 6 shades, SPF 19, PA++)
– Pre-Make Concentrate (moisturizing primer, SPF 16, PA++)
– Finish Concentrate (loose powder, 1 shade)
– Designing Concentrate (highlighter/contourer, 1 variation)

(Earlier this year, the line also launched two primers, Protect Essence Concentrate I and II, both of which have SPF 26 and PA++.)

Dew Superior was launched in 2007 to replace the original Dew line, which debuted in 2004. Dew used to carry a range of base makeup as well as skincare items, but Dew Superior was launched with skincare items only. The line’s main claim is to bring moisture and elasticity to the skin, and the target consumers are those in their late twenties and above. In line with the main selling point of the skincare items, the new base makeup line claims to have moisturizing properties which help give the skin a glowy look.

(www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/dewsuperior/)

I have only used trail samples of a toner and a moisturizer from the original Dew line. Perhaps not too surprisingly, they both contained too much alcohol to do anything positive to my skin. I doubt Dew Superior is very much different in this aspect. (As I mentioned before, even though there are some Japanese skincare products that work well for me, the allure of Japanese cosmetics for me lies mainly in base and point makeup, not in skincare.)

There are a couple of loose/pressed powder items on my shopping list at the moment, so I will probably skip Finish Concentrate. But if you are looking for foundations that have a dewy/glowy finish, then some of these products might worth looking into.

Other upcoming base makeup items:

Kanebo Coffret D’Or

Shiseido Maquillage

Sofina Primavista

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Exuding Quality – Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder

by PJ on Wednesday, July 30, 2008

in -Coffret d'Or, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(Coffret D’Or Makeup Powder)

Coffret D’Or released its debut base makeup collection earlier this year, and this loose powder is part of the lineup. It may not be the best loose powder I have ever used, but it is a lot better than almost all others that I have talked about on my blog.

The refill and the case are sold separately. (The case comes with a nice fluffy puff.) There is no sifter in the refill so you will need a case (any case) for an easier application. I have a couple of loose powder cases, but I decided to get both the case and the refill.


The sifter is designed in such a way that the powder can easily go in and out of the case (if you want to remove some into a smaller container for travelling). A very nice touch.

Currently the powder is available in one shade. It is a semi-translucent off-white powder with the slightest hint of pink. It has very fine shimmer but it doesn’t really show up very much when applied. The overall finish is semi-matte and gently luminous.

What I like the most about this loose powder is that it is nearly impossible to over-apply it. The powder is very fine and seems to melt into the skin, and there is no chalkiness even after some layering.

Even though, for my oily skin, Lavshuca’s Face Powder (in Lucent, currently my favorite loose powder) has a better pore-diffusing and oil-absorbing efficacy, Coffret D’Or’s loose powder does well enough in both areas to be a suitable product for me. But I would probably use it more in colder months.

Overall, I think this powder should appeal to various skin types. People with combination or oily skin will appreciate how it subtly mattifies the skin, while those with drier skin will probably like how it effortlessly merges with the skin without looking powdery. I think this is one of the products that show off the great quality in Japanese brands’ base makeup items.

(You can see another review of this loose powder at Autumn Masquerade.)

Related Posts:

Foundation Face-Off: Coffret D’Or vs. Lunasol

L’Oréal True Match Super-Blendable Powder

ck Calvin Klein Mineral Based Loose Powder

Can’t Live Without – ZA Two-Way Foundation

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Kanebo Impress Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, July 22, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Kanebo‘s top-end line Impress (a brief brand profile follows below) will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection on September 5th. The collection includes:

– Liquid Foundation (SPF 18, PA++)
– Pressed Powder (case and puff sold separately)
– Color Powder N

Impress currently features a skincare and a base makeup line, and the prices reflect the top-end status. The Impress Emulsion (in the skincare line) costs 12600 JPY (about 118 USD) and the Powder Foundation refill costs 9450 JPY (about 89 USD). The Liquid Foundation above also costs 12600 JPY.

The recent introduction of Impress IC, a sub-line of Impress, seems to have attracted more press interest in Japan than the launch of Impress a couple of years ago. Impress IC currently has two skincare ranges, Revitalizing and White, and the White range also features a makeup base and a powder foundation.

IC stands for Intensive Care. In usual marketing practices, the name would suggest an even higher price-point, but it is not the case here. Impress IC products are up to half the prices of the Impress equivalents and they are similarly priced to products from Lunasol. (The Impress IC White Powder Foundation refill costs 4725 JPY (about 44 USD), which is only slightly more expensive than a refill of Lunasol’s Skin Fusing Powder Foudation (4200 JPY, about 39 USD)). They are still quite pricey but are a lot more affordable than those from the main Impress line.

(Perhaps more surprisingly, the Impress Powder Foundation case (3150 JPY, about 30 USD) is three times more expensive than the Impress IC White Powder Foundation case.)

As far as I know, Impress is available in Japan, Taiwan, and Hong Kong. (Please let me know if it is also available where you are.)

If you are interested in Impress Powder Foundation and Impress IC White Powder Foundation, please check out the review on Autumn Masquerade.

Other upcoming collections from fall 2008:

Anna Sui

Lunasol

NARS

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Mineral Makeup Review: Afterglow Cosmetics

by PJ on Monday, July 21, 2008

in makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, makeup - blusher, makeup - eyeshadow, mineral makeup

(Clock-wise from top-right:
Setting Powder in Translucent,
Eyeshadows in Pixie, Velvet, Gift,
Blush in Smitten)

Today I am bringing you another review of mineral makeup, this time from Afterglow Cosmetics. (Check here for the US website.)

Setting Powder (in Translucent)

This is a loose powder for setting your foundation. It is not totally translucent as the name of the shade suggests, as the white powder does have a bit of coverage. If you have darker skin tones, this might leave a white cast on you. On the other hand, if the foundation you are using is a little too dark for your complexion, this setting powder can be of some help.

This matte powder is fairly good in controlling shine, but it has little efficacy in covering pores.

Eyeshadows (in Velvet, Pixie, and Gift)

Velvet is a medium-to-dark warm purple, Pixie is a pale lilac, and Gift is a medium-to-warm muted pink. Velvet is slightly too dark for me as a shadowing shade, so I pair it with Pixie and use it as a lining shade while Pixie gently lights up the eyes. But my favorite shade among the three is Gift, which is a wearable pink and a nicely subtle shadowing shade for daytime.

All the three colors have sparse shimmering particles over a predominantly matte finish. While I like the softly matte finish, which doesn’t look too heavy or chalky, I feel that the shimmering particles look a little flat and they are slightly too big to go with the matte finish of the colors themselves.

Also, they are not very easy to blend, which is particularly problematic for the darker Velvet, but the saving grace is their satisfactory staying power.

Blush (in Smitten)

Afterglow’s (UK) website describes Smitten as a “cool medium pink with matte finish”, which doe not seem accurate. According to the photos on-line, Smitten does seem to be on the cooler end of the brand’s blushers, but the shade itself is definitely not a cool medium pink. It is a very warm peach with a slightly dark brick-red undertone. But it is indeed matte as described.

It is very pigmented, so make sure that you apply as little of it as you can and gradually build it up. The staying power is as good as the eyeshadows. If you like warm-toned heavily pigmented blushers, then those from Afterglow might be worth your consideration.

Like many other mineral makeup lines, Afterglow’s items can potentially be ideal for people with sensitive skin. (Full ingredient lists are available on the US website.) However, it would be great if the brand could work on the finish of the eyeshadows as well as come up with a couple of cool-toned blushers to suit more skin tones.

Other mineral makeup reviews:

Von Natur (Part 1 and 2)

Erth Minerals

Ferro Cosmetics

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Kosé Cosmenience Elsia Fall 2008 Foundation Collection

by PJ on Saturday, July 19, 2008

in -Elsia, -Kosé, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(Elsia fall 2008 foundation lineup)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Elsia is a Kosé Cosmenience line that is mainly a base and point makeup line. (Kosé Cosmenience is the name of the group of Kosé‘s drugstore lines such as Fasio, Whitist, Junkisei Prime, and Happy Bath Day.) On August 21st, Elsia will release six brand new foundation products in Japan. They include (anti-clock-wise on photo above):

Powder-type:
– Moist Foundation (SPF 22, PA++)
– Lift Foundation (SPF 22, PA++)
– White Foundation (SPF 26, PA++)

Liquid/cream-type:
– Moist Cream Foundation N (SPF 25, PA++)
– White Liquid Foundation (SPF 26, PA++)
– White Liquid Foundation Quick Finish (SPF 26, PA++)

(All items are available in 4 shades.)

Among them, the White Liquid Foundation Quick Finish seems particularly interesting since Kosé claims that it is able to create an ideal finish without help from a primer or a setting powder (hence the “quick finish” in the name).

Kosé also mentions the items’ amount of coverage and the finish as relative to one another within the power and liquid/cream types:

Powder-type:

Coverage: Lift > Moist > White
From matte to glowy: White – Most – Lift

Liquid/cream-type:

Coverage:
Moist Cream > Quick Finish > White Liquid

From matte to glowy:
White Liquid – Quick Finish – Moist Cream

Apart from the six new foundation products, Elsia will also release Cheek Color N (4 shades), Quick Dry Nail Color (20 shades), and Cleansing Milk.

Many thanks to Betsy at Autumn Masquerade for alerting me to the news!

Other posts on fall 2008 base makeup collections:

Shiseido Maquillage

Kanebo Coffret D’Or

Sofina Primavista

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Shiseido Maquillage Fall 2008 Base makeup Collection

by PJ on Tuesday, July 15, 2008

in -Maquillage, -Shiseido, 2008 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup

(Shiseido Maquillage fall 2008 base makeup collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Shiseido Maquillage will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on August 21st. The collection includes:

– Climax Moisture Liquid (8 shades, SPF 12 PA+)
– Perfect Remake Compact (3 shades, SPF 15 PA+, case and puff sold separately)
– Moisture Retouch Gel (moisturizing primer)

The collection will also feature a foundation case designed by British fashion designer Christopher Kane, who collaborated with Shiseido for Maquillage’s fall 2008 makeup collection. (The case takes rectangular refills from the existing Maquillage powder foundations, not those from the new Perfect Remake Compact.)

Related Posts:

Agyness Deyn for Maquillage Fall 2008

Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes 2 in SV844

Maquillage Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310

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