makeup – base makeup

(Clock-wise from top-right:
Setting Powder in Translucent,
Eyeshadows in Pixie, Velvet, Gift,
Blush in Smitten)

Today I am bringing you another review of mineral makeup, this time from Afterglow Cosmetics. (Check here for the US website.)

Setting Powder (in Translucent)

This is a loose powder for setting your foundation. It is not totally translucent as the name of the shade suggests, as the white powder does have a bit of coverage. If you have darker skin tones, this might leave a white cast on you. On the other hand, if the foundation you are using is a little too dark for your complexion, this setting powder can be of some help.

This matte powder is fairly good in controlling shine, but it has little efficacy in covering pores.

Eyeshadows (in Velvet, Pixie, and Gift)

Velvet is a medium-to-dark warm purple, Pixie is a pale lilac, and Gift is a medium-to-warm muted pink. Velvet is slightly too dark for me as a shadowing shade, so I pair it with Pixie and use it as a lining shade while Pixie gently lights up the eyes. But my favorite shade among the three is Gift, which is a wearable pink and a nicely subtle shadowing shade for daytime.

All the three colors have sparse shimmering particles over a predominantly matte finish. While I like the softly matte finish, which doesn’t look too heavy or chalky, I feel that the shimmering particles look a little flat and they are slightly too big to go with the matte finish of the colors themselves.

Also, they are not very easy to blend, which is particularly problematic for the darker Velvet, but the saving grace is their satisfactory staying power.

Blush (in Smitten)

Afterglow’s (UK) website describes Smitten as a “cool medium pink with matte finish”, which doe not seem accurate. According to the photos on-line, Smitten does seem to be on the cooler end of the brand’s blushers, but the shade itself is definitely not a cool medium pink. It is a very warm peach with a slightly dark brick-red undertone. But it is indeed matte as described.

It is very pigmented, so make sure that you apply as little of it as you can and gradually build it up. The staying power is as good as the eyeshadows. If you like warm-toned heavily pigmented blushers, then those from Afterglow might be worth your consideration.

Like many other mineral makeup lines, Afterglow’s items can potentially be ideal for people with sensitive skin. (Full ingredient lists are available on the US website.) However, it would be great if the brand could work on the finish of the eyeshadows as well as come up with a couple of cool-toned blushers to suit more skin tones.

Other mineral makeup reviews:

Von Natur (Part 1 and 2)

Erth Minerals

Ferro Cosmetics

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(Elsia fall 2008 foundation lineup)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Elsia is a Kosé Cosmenience line that is mainly a base and point makeup line. (Kosé Cosmenience is the name of the group of Kosé‘s drugstore lines such as Fasio, Whitist, Junkisei Prime, and Happy Bath Day.) On August 21st, Elsia will release six brand new foundation products in Japan. They include (anti-clock-wise on photo above):

Powder-type:
Moist Foundation (SPF 22, PA++)
Lift Foundation (SPF 22, PA++)
White Foundation (SPF 26, PA++)

Liquid/cream-type:
Moist Cream Foundation N (SPF 25, PA++)
White Liquid Foundation (SPF 26, PA++)
White Liquid Foundation Quick Finish (SPF 26, PA++)

(All items are available in 4 shades.)

Among them, the White Liquid Foundation Quick Finish seems particularly interesting since Kosé claims that it is able to create an ideal finish without help from a primer or a setting powder (hence the “quick finish” in the name).

Kosé also mentions the items’ amount of coverage and the finish as relative to one another within the power and liquid/cream types:

Powder-type:

Coverage: Lift > Moist > White
From matte to glowy: White – Most – Lift

Liquid/cream-type:

Coverage:
Moist Cream > Quick Finish > White Liquid

From matte to glowy:
White Liquid – Quick Finish – Moist Cream

Apart from the six new foundation products, Elsia will also release Cheek Color N (4 shades), Quick Dry Nail Color (20 shades), and Cleansing Milk.

Many thanks to Betsy at Autumn Masquerade for alerting me to the news!

Other posts on fall 2008 base makeup collections:

Shiseido Maquillage

Kanebo Coffret D’Or

Sofina Primavista

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(Shiseido Maquillage fall 2008 base makeup collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

Shiseido Maquillage will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan on August 21st. The collection includes:

Climax Moisture Liquid (8 shades, SPF 12 PA+)
Perfect Remake Compact (3 shades, SPF 15 PA+, case and puff sold separately)
Moisture Retouch Gel (moisturizing primer)

The collection will also feature a foundation case designed by British fashion designer Christopher Kane, who collaborated with Shiseido for Maquillage’s fall 2008 makeup collection. (The case takes rectangular refills from the existing Maquillage powder foundations, not those from the new Perfect Remake Compact.)

Related Posts:

Agyness Deyn for Maquillage Fall 2008

Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes 2 in SV844

Maquillage Lasting Climax Rouge in RS310

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(Coffret D’Or Fall 2008 Base Makeup Collection)
(image from www.nikkei.co.jp)

On September 1st, Coffret D’Or will release its fall 2008 base makeup collection in Japan. The lineup includes:

Beauty Essence Pact (7 shades, SPF 23 PA++)
Gel Foundation (7 shades, SPF 17 PA++)
Beauty Essence Veil (primer)
Makeup Pressed Powder (1 shade)
Blend Color Blush (3 shades)

(Like the case for the powder foundation, the case and the puff for Makeup Pressed Powder and the case for Blend Color Blush (the same as the one for the pressed powder) are sold separately.)

So far I have been enjoying the two spring/summer base makeup items I tried (Beauty Lasting Pact UV and Makeup Powder, which I will review later this month). Among the new lineup, I am interested in the pressed powder and the blusher. I haven’t tried any new blusher from a Japanese brand for a while, and I am looking forward to seeing the other two shades. Hopefully these blushers are softly matte and not too shimmery for me.

Related Posts:

Sofina Primavista – New Base Makeup Line

L’Oréal True Match Super-Blendable Powder

The New Thierry Mugler Makeup Line
(featuring Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer)

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(Sofina Primavista Face Powder)
(image from i-voce2.com)

When Sofina Raycious did not release a spring/summer 2008 lineup, I thought it was obvious that this great base makeup line had been discontinued. (On the other hand, I am now able to say that I have the complete set of Raycious powder foundation cases since 1999 (the annual releases, not the limited-edition ones).)

I was wondering whether there would ever be a new base makeup line from Sofina, and now we have the answer. On September 1st in Japan, Primavista will officially join Aube (point makeup line) as well as all the skincare lines at Sofina counters.

The Primavista debut lineup includes:

Powder Foundation (7 shades, SPF15 PA++)



Cream Foundation (7 shades, SPF15 PA++)

Smooth Coat Base (SPF10 PA+)

Bright Up Base (SPF10 PA+)

Face Powder (seen above)

(all images from i-voce2.com)


For me, this is one of the most exciting base makeup releases in recent seasons. At the moment, the new items seem to be typical fall/winter releases, featuring products like cream foundation and loose powder. I am expecting the usual moisturizing properties and soft-focus finishes from some of these fall/winter items.

While I am very interested in the loose powder, I will be waiting to see if there is going to be a spring/summer powder foundation next year, which should supposedly be more sebum-absorbing and more suitable for my oily skin.)

You can see photos of the Primavista launch event here.

Related Posts:

Lavshuca Face Powder
(my loose powder favorite at the moment)


Loving Japanese Brands – Sofina

Can’t Live Without – Shiseido ZA Two-Way Foundation

ck Calvin Klein Mineral Based Loose Powder

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(L’Oréal True Match Super-Blendable Powder
in W3 Golden Beige)

Ever since L’Oréal’s True Match Super-Blendable Powder was chosen by Paula Begoun as one of the best makeup products in 2005, I have been interested in it. At that time, it was not sold in the UK. But it has been available here for a while now, and I recently decided to give it a try.

I am quite disappointed with it as a powder foundation. Even though the talc-based powder is very smooth and the finish is nicely matte and natural, it has very little coverage and only mildly evens out the complexion.

I think the reason why L’Oréal is able to claim that this powder can “adjust to the color” of the skin is that it is so sheer. On the plus side, it is hard to go wrong with the color selection, as most people can probably work with a couple of different shades.

For me, it works a lot better as a pressed setting powder. The smooth texture doesn’t look chalky over my ZA Two-Way Powder Foundation, and the silky matte shimmer-free powder covers pores and mattifies the shine fairly well. (I have oily skin and shine tends to be an issue.) This is a good alternative to loose powder when I want to set my foundation very quickly.

The enclosed sponge (not a puff) is thinner than most foundation sponges I have seen, but it still works well with the powder.

My slight complaint of this product is the awkward compact design. The top tier is the powder itself, and the sponge and the mirror are underneath. The product can be fiddly to use when you are out and about and want to do a quick touch-up.

Overall, this can still be a good powder foundation if you only go for a sheer coverage. If you want more coverage, this will almost certainly not work for you. But if you are looking for a well-formulated and reasonably priced pressed powder to set your foundation, this should be a strong contender.

Related Posts:

My Foundation Face-Off articles:

Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

Chanel vs. SUQQU

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Some of you might have heard about or seen the new makeup line by Thierry Mugler. I have not seen it in person myself, and today I am excited to present a guest review by my friend Lynn, who has tried out some of the products.

Hope you will enjoy this review!

Special Report from New York—Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes

Owned by Clarins, the new Thierry Mugler cosmetic collection is called The Art of Metamorphosis: A Line of Make Up. In the United States, it is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and online at
http://boutique.thierrymugler.com. Bloomingdales is also expected to carry the line. I am going to share my impressions of the products I have been using lately: Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. I was interested to note that the products are made in different countries. Bleu Glacis comes from Japan, the lipgloss from Italy, and the lash gloss is made in Germany.

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer,
“Disguise with ice and light”

I became curious about this new line after reading an announcement about the line in a Fashion-Week edition of Women’s Wear Daily, but the real motivator to track it down was a paragraph in Allure about Bleu Glacis Cooling-Effect Concealer ($45 USD for 11 grams). It is unlike any concealer I have ever used—with a spongy, bouncy texture, and cooling sensation on the skin. The first time I applied it was on a nothing-on-my-face day, and it melded with my skin without creasing—almost like a waterproof product with a soft, matte finish. I find this remarkable since it is so watery and wet. When I am doing full make-up, I use Bleu Glacis on top of Clarins Perfecting Touch Primer, which is applied over Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream. It is so effective at luminizing the undereye area that I find myself using fewer products, and it does not crease or fade for hours. Since I have some fine lines, I just redistribute if I see a little crease. Bleu Glacis comes with a thin sponge applicator, but I have been comfortable applying it with my fingers. Most days, I just brush on a bit of Bobbi Brown Eye Brightener to blend the Bleu with my complexion, but I will be trying out Teint Glacis, which is a foundation that is also a cooling-effect product. For me, Bleu Glacis is the Product of the Year—so far.

Dee, a sales associate representing the line at Saks, told me that Bleu Glacis worked beautifully for a woman with rosacea and darker skin. For her, it was more of a colour correcting layer to be followed by foundation. Dee also mentioned that Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas foundation has a similar texture, but very different properties. On my second visit to the Thierry Mugler outpost in Saks, I saw a makeup artist applying Bleu Glacis and Teint Glacis to a young woman with caramel-coloured skin, and the effect was flawless and stunning. She said “Wow!” when she saw herself, and remarked that she had not looked so well-rested in a long time.

Thierry Mugler Lip Lacker, Bleu Effect Plexigloss,
“Liquid Crystal Hologram”

Another product I purchased is Blue Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker ($40 USD). It is very a lightweight and moisturizing gloss without any stickiness, and reminds me of liquid opals. Yes, liquid opals! How did they do that? I find myself just gazing at the beauty of the product wand sometimes and daydreaming about its inner light…chances are that it will need to be moved into another room if I want to get any work done today. The applicator is the same type of flexible spatula used in many Japanese lipglosses. I wore it alone as a test for lasting power, and it held up for about four hours on a warm day. My natural lipcolour is quite red and Bleu Effect looks like an intense translucent violet until I blend and distribute the colour to a subtle sheen. When used as a top coat over a darker colour, the effect can be intense and multidimensional. The lipgloss has a mild honey-flower fragrance, but no taste. At Saks, I saw the other two glosses from the collection—the Reflection Effects in Pink and Coral have more shimmer and a holographic quality.

Thierry Mugler Vinyl Gloss for Lashes,
“A new beauty ritual for vinyl shine”

Vinyl Gloss for Lashes ($49.00 USD) is a lightweight, very liquid formula that is meant to be painted on the lashes and layered. It provides delicate coverage with nice lengthening. I have found the liquid formula long-lasting and very black. The small brush, in my opinion, is not easy to maneuver, and needs to be wiped off very carefully to avoid drips and clumps. I think that an applicator like the MAC-Mascara-Fan brush would be amazing with this formula. (For people who may have issues with lashes sticking together, Mascara Fan beautifully separates the lashes before the mascara dries. I am a devoted MAC-Mascara-Fan fan.)

In October 2008, 7 shades of lipstick called “Rouge Unique, The ultimate pigment explosion” will be introduced. In a tiny printed swatch on a brochure I was given with my purchases, I see what seems to be a lavender-lilac shade called Fantasy. Do I hear applause, PJ? Also in October, a new mascara called “Flash on Lashes, Spectacular lash mascara” will join Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. Mousse Foundation, “The ultimate pleasure in foundation” will be introduced in December 2008. According to Jason, another Thierry Mugler sales associate, over fifty new products will be introduced to the line this Fall. As for me, I’ll be spending this summer cleaning out my cabinets to make way for those tempting new lipsticks, conjuring Glacis Powder and Liquid Opal Nail Varnish while keeping cool under a lovely Bleu Glacis veil.

Special thanks to PJ for publishing this review and encouraging lilac-shadowed blue lipgloss lovers everywhere!

Lynnderella

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My post on Lilting Lilac was back in December, and how time has flown. One of my readers predicted that there would be a Part 2, and she is right.

Here I share with you new faces (since last year), old favorites, and generosity from friends.

Above:
Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes in SV844
Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Stage Lights
Paul & Joe Eye Color in 05 (to be reviewed later)
MAC Pigments in Violet and Frozen White (off-white with blue/lilac iridescence), in small pots from a lilac-loving friend

Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow palette in 250 Seascape
Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in 04 Purple Variation
Clarins Palette Impression in 03 The Mauve Garden
Anna Sui Pressed Face Powder in 200
Ferro Eye Candy Shimmer in February

.

– (left) Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in 02 Lavender Coral
– (right) Lunasol Scent Form Eyes in 02

.

…and one more before there is more:

Revlon Glimmer Gloss Nail Enamel in 610 Grape Shimmer (upper left)

Other Splashes of Colors:

Girlie Pink

Citrus Orange

New-Leaf Green

Terrific Turquoise

Aqua Blue

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(Jill Stuart Smooth Silk Powder Foundation
& SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh)

Today I am bringing you the third foundation face-off, this time between Jill Stuart’s Smooth Silk Powder Foundation and SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Fresh. Both are spring/summer 2008 releases.

(A note on my foundation concerns, preferences, and habits to set the perspective for the review: I have oily skin which is prone to some slight redness. I prefer powder foundations that control shine well, offer at least medium coverage, and have decent pore coverage. I usually don’t wear a primer or a concealer.)

Basics

– Jill Stuart Smooth Silk Powder Foundation: SPF 20/ PA ++, 5 shades
– SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh: SPF 27/ PA ++, 6 shades

Finish

Jill Stuart has a very soft-focus and glowy finish, while SUQQU gives a luminous matte finish. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Jill Stuart’s powder is very smooth and velvety and has an almost-moist feel. SUQQU’s powder is slightly drier but it is still quite silky.

Coverage

Jill Stuart offers a nearly-medium coverage, which I am quite happy with. SUQQU offers a good medium-to-full coverage. I feel that SUQQU covers my mild redness better than Jill Stuart, but I think this might be only because the SUQQU shade I tried, #25, is more yellow-based than Jill Stuart’s #103.

Pore Coverage

Jill Stuart’s pore coverage is satisfactory, while SUQQU’s pore-concealing ability has some room for improvement.

Shine Control

For me, this is usually the deciding factor on a foundation. Here, the luminous and glowy Jill Stuart fails to impress me as it has very little shine-control ability. Even a good matte loose powder can’t keep the shine away (my face becomes shiny within an hour) and constant touch-ups are a must for me.

On the other hand, even though SUQQU’s shine control is not the best that I have experienced, at least it is what I would expect from a spring/summer powder foundation release from a Japanese brand, which is usually more about sebum control than a fall/winter release. (Again, out of all the foundations featured in the face-off posts along with the ZA Two-Way Foundation, Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Pact UV offers the best shine control.)

Staying Power

Neither of them darkens overtime or loses the coverage too quickly, but, as mentioned above, Jill Stuart’s silky smoothness turns shiny very quickly on me, making it a very high-maintenance foundation for my oily skin.

Between the two, I favor SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh. It offers good coverage and decent shine-control, and it stays on well throughout the day. A good loose powder can easily enhance the pore coverage. I think this should be a good powder foundation for most skin types. As for Jill Stuart’s Smooth Silk Powder Foundation, I wouldn’t recommend it if any part of your face tends to be on the oily side, as it doesn’t control shine and the glowy finish will make shine appear more obvious.

(I’d like to thank my friend Betsy at Autumn Masquerade for very kindly sending these samples to me. Please head over to read her review on SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Fresh.)

Related Posts:

Foundation Face-Off (1) – Chanel vs. SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off (2) – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

My Latest Foundation Cases
(Anna Sui and Jill Stuart)

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(ck Calvin Klein Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder
in 001 Ivory)

Today, Beauty Anonymous and I are bringing you reviews of items from the brand new ck Calvin Klein Beauty! We hope you will enjoy reading about our thoughts on the items that we picked up.

Nearly a year ago, I wrote a post on the previous Calvin Klein beauty line to start my “Bring It Back” series. Soon after that, I learned that it was indeed coming back. After it launched in Italy, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, the new cK Calvin Klein Beauty finally launched in the UK and US.

In the US, the line is available on the Sephora website besides other retail points. In the UK, it is available in House of Fraser on London’s Oxford Street. (It will also launch in the new House of Fraser store in Belfast in May.)

The London counter was launched on March 31st, and I went over to have a good look earlier this month. The sales assistant, also the counter manager, told me that the ck Calvin Klein line is now owned by a Japanese businessman, who saw tremendous potential in Asia. I think this might be one of the reasons why it launched in Asia before the US and the UK.

The line currently features foundation and color makeup items. (The skincare products will debut later.) Whereas the previous lineup featured mostly neutral tones for the eyes, the new range has a few slightly more vibrant colors. The eyeshadow powder is quite smooth and blendable. There are three ranges of lip glosses, and I like the sparkling shimmer of the Delicious Pout Flavored Lip Gloss and the glassiness of the Fully Delicious Sheer Plumping Lip Gloss (with almost no shimmer).

However, packaging-wise, I still prefer the previous line. I know I am being fussy here, but I prefer the clean angular edges of the previous compacts to the round edges of the current products.

I decided to take home the Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder. There are four shades available (but only one shade, Translucent, is available on the US Sephora website). At the counter, Translucent was the only one that didn’t have a tester, but I was told that it was sheer and matte. It sounded like what I would like, but I didn’t want to take the risk. I chose 001 Ivory, the lightest of the other three shades.

I like the container. It has clean and slick edges and the lid is quite thick and heavy.

First of all, the name of the product indicates that it is mineral-based. Looking at the ingredient list, I take “mineral based” to mean “talc-free. (Otherwise it is just like any other loose powder.) This is only based on the convention in beauty marketing, since talc itself is a mineral ingredient. (Most mineral makeup lines regard talc as a cheap filler ingredient. However, talc is a key ingredient in many foundations and other makeup products in creating the smoothness and silkiness that many mineral foundations don’t have.)

However, the powder had the matteness that really appealed to me when I tested it at the counter, so I was willing to give it a go.


#001 Ivory is a pale beige shade that goes on slightly lighter than it looks in the container. It doesn’t have visible shimmer and has a natural matte finish that should appeal to people with combination or oily skin.

One thing very different from some other loose powder is that it has considerably more coverage and that it adds extra coverage to the ZA Two-Way Foundation that I have been using. The two together create a medium-to-full coverage. (But if you are using a foundation that matches your skin tone perfectly, this loose powder is very likely to alter the shade of your foundation applied beforehand.) What I also like about this loose powder is that it does have a fairly good efficacy in controlling shine.

However, it only conceals pores minimally and it doesn’t create an optimally smooth finish. (To me, the texture of the powder seems relatively dry.) Also, when applied with a puff (not the enclosed puff in the container, which is slightly stiff), the powder does not move or blend as well as some other loose powder I have tried.

I have to contribute these less-than-desirable qualities to the lack of ingredients like talc which add smoothness and a bit of movement during application. Using this loose power with a large powder brush will solve some of the movement issue, but this will cover pores even less effectively.

I think this loose powder will suit people with combination or oily skin who want shine control but don’t need pore coverage from a loose powder. Also, since it does have a bit of coverage, it can be used simply as a foundation if you like a light coverage. (In both cases, again, do use a powder brush, not a puff, especially not the one included in the container.)

Overall, from the items I tested at the counter, I still like the new ck Calvin Klein Beauty line. Also, the prices are lower than many other high-end products. (The loose powder costs £17 and a mascara costs £10.) I will definitely be on the lookout for new items. Most important of all, I hope it stays around for much longer this time!

Now, please do head over to Beauty Anonymous for reviews of Tempting Glance Intense Eyeshadow in Sensuous Taupe and Delicious Luxury Crème Lipstick in Henna.

Enjoy!!

(Please also have a look at another joint review that Beauty Anonymous and I did on Chanel’s Ombre D’Eau Eyeshadow.)

More loose powder!

Crème de la Mer The Powder

Paul & Joe Face Powder

Lavshuca Face Powder

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