makeup – base makeup

The New Thierry Mugler Makeup Line – A Guest Review by Lynn Chrisman

by PJ on Sunday, June 1, 2008

in -Thierry Mugler, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, makeup - lip color, makeup - lip gloss, makeup - mascara

Some of you might have heard about or seen the new makeup line by Thierry Mugler. I have not seen it in person myself, and today I am excited to present a guest review by my friend Lynn, who has tried out some of the products.

Hope you will enjoy this review!

Special Report from New York—Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes

Owned by Clarins, the new Thierry Mugler cosmetic collection is called The Art of Metamorphosis: A Line of Make Up. In the United States, it is currently available at Saks Fifth Avenue in New York and online at http://boutique.thierrymugler.com. Bloomingdales is also expected to carry the line. I am going to share my impressions of the products I have been using lately: Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer, Bleu Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker and Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. I was interested to note that the products are made in different countries. Bleu Glacis comes from Japan, the lipgloss from Italy, and the lash gloss is made in Germany.

Thierry Mugler Bleu Glacis Cooling Effect Concealer,
“Disguise with ice and light”

I became curious about this new line after reading an announcement about the line in a Fashion-Week edition of Women’s Wear Daily, but the real motivator to track it down was a paragraph in Allure about Bleu Glacis Cooling-Effect Concealer ($45 USD for 11 grams). It is unlike any concealer I have ever used—with a spongy, bouncy texture, and cooling sensation on the skin. The first time I applied it was on a nothing-on-my-face day, and it melded with my skin without creasing—almost like a waterproof product with a soft, matte finish. I find this remarkable since it is so watery and wet. When I am doing full make-up, I use Bleu Glacis on top of Clarins Perfecting Touch Primer, which is applied over Shiseido Benefiance Eye Cream. It is so effective at luminizing the undereye area that I find myself using fewer products, and it does not crease or fade for hours. Since I have some fine lines, I just redistribute if I see a little crease. Bleu Glacis comes with a thin sponge applicator, but I have been comfortable applying it with my fingers. Most days, I just brush on a bit of Bobbi Brown Eye Brightener to blend the Bleu with my complexion, but I will be trying out Teint Glacis, which is a foundation that is also a cooling-effect product. For me, Bleu Glacis is the Product of the Year—so far.

Dee, a sales associate representing the line at Saks, told me that Bleu Glacis worked beautifully for a woman with rosacea and darker skin. For her, it was more of a colour correcting layer to be followed by foundation. Dee also mentioned that Vincent Longo’s Water Canvas foundation has a similar texture, but very different properties. On my second visit to the Thierry Mugler outpost in Saks, I saw a makeup artist applying Bleu Glacis and Teint Glacis to a young woman with caramel-coloured skin, and the effect was flawless and stunning. She said “Wow!” when she saw herself, and remarked that she had not looked so well-rested in a long time.

Thierry Mugler Lip Lacker, Bleu Effect Plexigloss,
“Liquid Crystal Hologram”

Another product I purchased is Blue Effect Plexigloss Lip Lacker ($40 USD). It is very a lightweight and moisturizing gloss without any stickiness, and reminds me of liquid opals. Yes, liquid opals! How did they do that? I find myself just gazing at the beauty of the product wand sometimes and daydreaming about its inner light…chances are that it will need to be moved into another room if I want to get any work done today. The applicator is the same type of flexible spatula used in many Japanese lipglosses. I wore it alone as a test for lasting power, and it held up for about four hours on a warm day. My natural lipcolour is quite red and Bleu Effect looks like an intense translucent violet until I blend and distribute the colour to a subtle sheen. When used as a top coat over a darker colour, the effect can be intense and multidimensional. The lipgloss has a mild honey-flower fragrance, but no taste. At Saks, I saw the other two glosses from the collection—the Reflection Effects in Pink and Coral have more shimmer and a holographic quality.

Thierry Mugler Vinyl Gloss for Lashes,
“A new beauty ritual for vinyl shine”

Vinyl Gloss for Lashes ($49.00 USD) is a lightweight, very liquid formula that is meant to be painted on the lashes and layered. It provides delicate coverage with nice lengthening. I have found the liquid formula long-lasting and very black. The small brush, in my opinion, is not easy to maneuver, and needs to be wiped off very carefully to avoid drips and clumps. I think that an applicator like the MAC-Mascara-Fan brush would be amazing with this formula. (For people who may have issues with lashes sticking together, Mascara Fan beautifully separates the lashes before the mascara dries. I am a devoted MAC-Mascara-Fan fan.)

In October 2008, 7 shades of lipstick called “Rouge Unique, The ultimate pigment explosion” will be introduced. In a tiny printed swatch on a brochure I was given with my purchases, I see what seems to be a lavender-lilac shade called Fantasy. Do I hear applause, PJ? Also in October, a new mascara called “Flash on Lashes, Spectacular lash mascara” will join Vinyl Gloss for Lashes. Mousse Foundation, “The ultimate pleasure in foundation” will be introduced in December 2008. According to Jason, another Thierry Mugler sales associate, over fifty new products will be introduced to the line this Fall. As for me, I’ll be spending this summer cleaning out my cabinets to make way for those tempting new lipsticks, conjuring Glacis Powder and Liquid Opal Nail Varnish while keeping cool under a lovely Bleu Glacis veil.

Special thanks to PJ for publishing this review and encouraging lilac-shadowed blue lipgloss lovers everywhere!

Lynnderella

{ 14 comments }

A Splash of Color: More Lilting Lilac

by PJ on Monday, May 26, 2008

in _I Love Colors, -Anna Sui, -Clarins, -Coffret d'Or, -Dior, -Kanebo, -Lunasol, -MAC, -Maquillage, -Paul & Joe, -Shiseido, makeup, makeup - base makeup, nail color/care

My post on Lilting Lilac was back in December, and how time has flown. One of my readers predicted that there would be a Part 2, and she is right.

Here I share with you new faces (since last year), old favorites, and generosity from friends.

Above:
– Maquillage Clean Contrast Eyes in SV844
– Chanel Quadra Eye Shadow in Stage Lights
– Paul & Joe Eye Color in 05 (to be reviewed later)
– MAC Pigments in Violet and Frozen White (off-white with blue/lilac iridescence), in small pots from a lilac-loving friend

– Dior 5-Color Eyeshadow palette in 250 Seascape
– Coffret D’Or 3D Lighting Eyes in 04 Purple Variation
– Clarins Palette Impression in 03 The Mauve Garden
– Anna Sui Pressed Face Powder in 200
– Ferro Eye Candy Shimmer in February

.

– (left) Lunasol Sheer Contrast Eyes in 02 Lavender Coral
– (right) Lunasol Scent Form Eyes in 02

.

…and one more before there is more:

– Revlon Glimmer Gloss Nail Enamel in 610 Grape Shimmer (upper left)

Other Splashes of Colors:

– Girlie Pink

– Citrus Orange

– New-Leaf Green

– Terrific Turquoise

– Aqua Blue

{ 8 comments }

Foundation Face-Off (3) – Jill Stuart vs. SUQQU

by PJ on Wednesday, May 21, 2008

in -Jill Stuart, -SUQQU, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation

(Jill Stuart Smooth Silk Powder Foundation
& SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh)

Today I am bringing you the third foundation face-off, this time between Jill Stuart’s Smooth Silk Powder Foundation and SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Fresh. Both are spring/summer 2008 releases.

(A note on my foundation concerns, preferences, and habits to set the perspective for the review: I have oily skin which is prone to some slight redness. I prefer powder foundations that control shine well, offer at least medium coverage, and have decent pore coverage. I usually don’t wear a primer or a concealer.)

Basics

– Jill Stuart Smooth Silk Powder Foundation: SPF 20/ PA ++, 5 shades
– SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh: SPF 27/ PA ++, 6 shades

Finish

Jill Stuart has a very soft-focus and glowy finish, while SUQQU gives a luminous matte finish. Neither has visible shimmer.

Texture

Jill Stuart’s powder is very smooth and velvety and has an almost-moist feel. SUQQU’s powder is slightly drier but it is still quite silky.

Coverage

Jill Stuart offers a nearly-medium coverage, which I am quite happy with. SUQQU offers a good medium-to-full coverage. I feel that SUQQU covers my mild redness better than Jill Stuart, but I think this might be only because the SUQQU shade I tried, #25, is more yellow-based than Jill Stuart’s #103.

Pore Coverage

Jill Stuart’s pore coverage is satisfactory, while SUQQU’s pore-concealing ability has some room for improvement.

Shine Control

For me, this is usually the deciding factor on a foundation. Here, the luminous and glowy Jill Stuart fails to impress me as it has very little shine-control ability. Even a good matte loose powder can’t keep the shine away (my face becomes shiny within an hour) and constant touch-ups are a must for me.

On the other hand, even though SUQQU’s shine control is not the best that I have experienced, at least it is what I would expect from a spring/summer powder foundation release from a Japanese brand, which is usually more about sebum control than a fall/winter release. (Again, out of all the foundations featured in the face-off posts along with the ZA Two-Way Foundation, Coffret D’Or’s Beauty Lasting Pact UV offers the best shine control.)

Staying Power

Neither of them darkens overtime or loses the coverage too quickly, but, as mentioned above, Jill Stuart’s silky smoothness turns shiny very quickly on me, making it a very high-maintenance foundation for my oily skin.

Between the two, I favor SUQQU Powder Foundation Fresh. It offers good coverage and decent shine-control, and it stays on well throughout the day. A good loose powder can easily enhance the pore coverage. I think this should be a good powder foundation for most skin types. As for Jill Stuart’s Smooth Silk Powder Foundation, I wouldn’t recommend it if any part of your face tends to be on the oily side, as it doesn’t control shine and the glowy finish will make shine appear more obvious.

(I’d like to thank my friend Betsy at Autumn Masquerade for very kindly sending these samples to me. Please head over to read her review on SUQQU’s Powder Foundation Fresh.)

Related Posts:

Foundation Face-Off (1) – Chanel vs. SUQQU

Foundation Face-Off (2) – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

My Latest Foundation Cases
(Anna Sui and Jill Stuart)

{ 22 comments }

ck Calvin Klein Beauty – Joint Report with Beauty Anonymous

by PJ on Sunday, April 27, 2008

in -Calvin Klein, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder

(ck Calvin Klein Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder
in 001 Ivory)

Today, Beauty Anonymous and I are bringing you reviews of items from the brand new ck Calvin Klein Beauty! We hope you will enjoy reading about our thoughts on the items that we picked up.

Nearly a year ago, I wrote a post on the previous Calvin Klein beauty line to start my “Bring It Back” series. Soon after that, I learned that it was indeed coming back. After it launched in Italy, Hong Kong, and Taiwan, the new cK Calvin Klein Beauty finally launched in the UK and US.

In the US, the line is available on the Sephora website besides other retail points. In the UK, it is available in House of Fraser on London’s Oxford Street. (It will also launch in the new House of Fraser store in Belfast in May.)

The London counter was launched on March 31st, and I went over to have a good look earlier this month. The sales assistant, also the counter manager, told me that the ck Calvin Klein line is now owned by a Japanese businessman, who saw tremendous potential in Asia. I think this might be one of the reasons why it launched in Asia before the US and the UK.

The line currently features foundation and color makeup items. (The skincare products will debut later.) Whereas the previous lineup featured mostly neutral tones for the eyes, the new range has a few slightly more vibrant colors. The eyeshadow powder is quite smooth and blendable. There are three ranges of lip glosses, and I like the sparkling shimmer of the Delicious Pout Flavored Lip Gloss and the glassiness of the Fully Delicious Sheer Plumping Lip Gloss (with almost no shimmer).

However, packaging-wise, I still prefer the previous line. I know I am being fussy here, but I prefer the clean angular edges of the previous compacts to the round edges of the current products.

I decided to take home the Subliminal Purity Mineral Based Loose Powder. There are four shades available (but only one shade, Translucent, is available on the US Sephora website). At the counter, Translucent was the only one that didn’t have a tester, but I was told that it was sheer and matte. It sounded like what I would like, but I didn’t want to take the risk. I chose 001 Ivory, the lightest of the other three shades.

I like the container. It has clean and slick edges and the lid is quite thick and heavy.

First of all, the name of the product indicates that it is mineral-based. Looking at the ingredient list, I take “mineral based” to mean “talc-free“. (Otherwise it is just like any other loose powder.) This is only based on the convention in beauty marketing, since talc itself is a mineral ingredient. (Most mineral makeup lines regard talc as a cheap filler ingredient. However, talc is a key ingredient in many foundations and other makeup products in creating the smoothness and silkiness that many mineral foundations don’t have.)

However, the powder had the matteness that really appealed to me when I tested it at the counter, so I was willing to give it a go.


#001 Ivory is a pale beige shade that goes on slightly lighter than it looks in the container. It doesn’t have visible shimmer and has a natural matte finish that should appeal to people with combination or oily skin.

One thing very different from some other loose powder is that it has considerably more coverage and that it adds extra coverage to the ZA Two-Way Foundation that I have been using. The two together create a medium-to-full coverage. (But if you are using a foundation that matches your skin tone perfectly, this loose powder is very likely to alter the shade of your foundation applied beforehand.) What I also like about this loose powder is that it does have a fairly good efficacy in controlling shine.

However, it only conceals pores minimally and it doesn’t create an optimally smooth finish. (To me, the texture of the powder seems relatively dry.) Also, when applied with a puff (not the enclosed puff in the container, which is slightly stiff), the powder does not move or blend as well as some other loose powder I have tried.

I have to contribute these less-than-desirable qualities to the lack of ingredients like talc which add smoothness and a bit of movement during application. Using this loose power with a large powder brush will solve some of the movement issue, but this will cover pores even less effectively.

I think this loose powder will suit people with combination or oily skin who want shine control but don’t need pore coverage from a loose powder. Also, since it does have a bit of coverage, it can be used simply as a foundation if you like a light coverage. (In both cases, again, do use a powder brush, not a puff, especially not the one included in the container.)

Overall, from the items I tested at the counter, I still like the new ck Calvin Klein Beauty line. Also, the prices are lower than many other high-end products. (The loose powder costs £17 and a mascara costs £10.) I will definitely be on the lookout for new items. Most important of all, I hope it stays around for much longer this time!

Now, please do head over to Beauty Anonymous for reviews of Tempting Glance Intense Eyeshadow in Sensuous Taupe and Delicious Luxury Crème Lipstick in Henna.

Enjoy!!

(Please also have a look at another joint review that Beauty Anonymous and I did on Chanel’s Ombre D’Eau Eyeshadow.)

More loose powder!

Crème de la Mer The Powder

Paul & Joe Face Powder

Lavshuca Face Powder

{ 8 comments }

Jill Stuart Moist Silk Liquid Foundation

by PJ on Tuesday, April 22, 2008

in -Jill Stuart, 2007 Fall, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Jill Stuart Moist Silk Liquid Foundation)

Jill Stuart‘s Moist Silk Liquid Foundation was released in fall 2007. At that time, I was not sure if it would replace Tint Liquid Foundation (Jill Stuart’s first liquid foundation). But, at this moment, both are listed on Jill Stuart’s website.

The packaging is beautiful and very princessy, and it has almost become a permanent fixture on my dressing table.

Here is how it performs for me:

The Basics

SPF 18, PA +++, 30ml, 5 shades
(Mine is 103 Nude, a neutral light-to-medium beige. Ethanol is seventh on ingredient list, but this foundation doesn’t irritate my skin.)

Texture & Consistency

It has a light-cream consistency. The very smooth texture largely comes from talc, and the richness of the consistency is mainly down to squalene (which is a very effective moisturizing ingredient used in many moisturizers). The foundation is not very liquid-y and the bottle has to be tapped against the back of my hand to slowly dispense the foundation.

Slip & Blendability

The foundation has a good slip and blends relatively easily. It dries a little fast so swift blending is ideal.

Finish

The finish is smooth and satiny (neither matte or luminous), and it has a pleasing soft-focus look to it.

Coverage

This foundation gives a natural medium-to-full coverage. The level of coverage is a lot higher than Paul & Joe’s Light Cream Foundation reviewed earlier.

Pore Coverage

For me, among non-powder foundations (which almost always cover pores less effectively than powder foundations), the pore coverage is fairly good.

Lasting Power

The lasting power is relatively satisfactory. It doesn’t have an optimal lasting power for me only because it is quite emollient for my oily skin for most part of the year. Other than that, the color does stay true and does not darken overtime.

Overall, liquid foundations are more suitable for me in winter no matter whether they are spring/summer or fall/winter releases. This one is no exception. In colder days and when I need more coverage than what Paul & Joe’s Light Cream Foundation can give me, this is definitely the one I’d go for.

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Jill Stuart
(my personal take on Jill Stuart)

Jill Stuart Brilliance Eyes in 04 Gem Amethyst
(my very first lilac-based eye palette)

Jill Stuart Powder Foundation Compact S
(the latest member of my foundation case collection)

{ 8 comments }

Product Review: Crème de la Mer The Powder in Translucent

by PJ on Friday, April 11, 2008

in -Crème de la Mer, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder

(Crème de la Mer The Powder)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

When a luxury skincare line goes into makeup, it does get my attention. I was intrigued when Crème de la Mer launched the foundation line, just as I was when SKII launched their first foundation many years ago.

The Powder, a loose face powder, is part of Crème de la Mer’s Skincolor range, which also includes Fluid Foundation and Crème Foundation along with Foundation Brush and Powder Brush.

Apart from the lid, the large jar is made of glass. The heaviness of it does have a very luxurious feel.

This talc and mica based powder is very light and soft, and it almost has a fluffy feel. The enclosed puff is plush and soft to the touch.

The shade in Translucent is sheer and does not have any substantial coverage. It is quite a shimmery loose powder that has little efficacy in controlling shine or diffusing the appearance of pores.

Under artificial lighting, quite a lot of fine silver and pink shimmer and some pale pink iridescence are visible. Under natural sunlight, the pink iridescence can look more intense, so care must be taken when you use this for your daytime look. Less is definitely more.

Personally I prefer matte loose powder with no or minimal shimmer, and I would use this very sparingly as a highlighter. But if you enjoy both shimmer and iridescence in your overall setting powder, then this is definitely worth a look.

More Loose Powder!

Lavshuca Face Powder in Lucent

Paul & Joe Face Powder

Prescriptives Magic Liquid Powder

{ 6 comments }

Shimmering Away – Paul & Joe Pressed Powder

by PJ on Sunday, March 30, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus

(Paul & Joe Pressed Powder in 03)


Like the Paul & Joe Loose Powder and Light Cream Foundation, I bought this at half price during the winter sale in London.

As I have mentioned previously, Paul & Joe’s foundations are known for being sheer and ultra-natural. This item is no exception.




03 is a translucent pale beige that goes on relatively sheer. The powder is sooth and fine, and it has a fair amount of shimmer. Even though the shimmer is very fine, I feel that it works a lot better for me as a highlighter than as an overall finishing powder. Since my face develops shine quite easily, a shimmery pressed powder can make shine look even more obvious. But for people with drier skin or for those who want extra luminosity, this shimmery (and by no means glittery) pressed powder could work well as a finishing powder.

Apart from using it as a subtle highlighter, I also like to dust a bit of it in the eye area to add a touch of luminosity.

Compared with the Loose Powder, the Pressed Powder is slightly more opaque and has a little more shimmer.

What is a little different about the kind of shimmer used in Paul & Joe’s base makeup items is that it is a pale gold shimmer of various subtle (but visible) tones (very pale pink, peach, green, blue,…). I have come across Paul & Joe counter leaflets that describe this shimmer as “nine-color gold powder”. Recently the Paul & Joe English website has named it “Secret D’Or“, which consists of “select varieties of champagne gold frost, each with different, subtle overtones and light reflective properties”.

I tried to capture the multi-color shimmer on camera:

(Please click on the image to see a much larger version.)


This kind of multi-color shimmer is quite subtle but is still visible up-close. Overall it does create a relatively natural luminosity that is in tune with the ultra-natural essence of Paul & Joe’s base makeup range. (Obviously many other brands feature something similar, but Paul & Joe uses this multi-color shimmer uniformly in their base makeup items, from primers to loose powder, in various amounts.)

However, for me, a downside of this pressed powder is that it is not particularly good at diffusing the appearance of pores. As a finishing powder for the whole face, I’d prefer something more matte and with a better pore coverage.

(At the moment, the Pressed Powder has almost been completely phased out (hence the discount) and is replaced by Pressed Powder N. I have tested the new version at the counter, and it seems that it is not drastically different. The powder is still relatively sheer, and the multi-color shimmer is still there.)

Related Posts:

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe
(my personal take on Paul & Joe)

Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N
(one of my favorite primers)

Sofina Raycious Pressed Powder
(more matter and with better pore coverage)

{ 4 comments }

Anna Sui & Jill Stuart Latest Foundation Cases

by PJ on Thursday, March 27, 2008

in -Anna Sui, -Jill Stuart, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, makeup - base makeup - powder, stash focus



Today I am sharing two latest additions to my foundation case collection.

First up is the case of Anna Sui‘s Loose Compact Powder UV, which is part of Anna Sui’s spring/summer 2008 base makeup release. This case is for the new loose powder refills and is designed to make Anna Sui’s loose powder slightly more travel-friendly. (Remember that Anna Sui’s original large loose powder case doesn’t have a screw lid and is very tricky to travel with.)

Even though white is my least favorite color for Anna Sui’s packaging, I like the thickness of the case compared with other Anna Sui’s foundation compacts.




The case comes with a purple powder puff which is very soft to the touch.


Please notice that the sift is included in the refill and not in the case. So this is not the kind of portable loose powder case in which you can put your own loose powder. But, size-wise, all the round Anna Sui foundation refills can fit into this case.




Next is the Jill Stuart‘s Powder Foundation Compact S, which is released with the new Smooth Skin Powder Foundation. Compared with the original Powder Foundation Case (released in spring 2006), the new case has a different design for the lid and features a charm with floral details.




Let’s see the two designs side by side. The spring 2006 case is on the left and the spring 2008 one is on the right:


All the Jill Stuart powder foundation and pressed powder refills are the same size, and the cases are sold separately. So what case to pick when you purchase a Jill Stuart foundation refill is entirely up to you.

Furthermore, since both Anna Sui and Jill Stuart (and Paul & Joe as well) commission Kosé (which owns Albion, commissioned by Anna Sui and Paul & Joe) to produce the makeup (and skincare) line, all their round foundation refills can fit into all cases.

My case collection does take up a bit of space. But, for me, it is a slightly less pricey way to chart the development of a brand’s image and there is no need to worry about products expiring. I shall continue to pick up the cases I like from my favorite brands.

More cases:

Sofina Raycious Foundation Case Galore

My Anna Sui Foundation Case Collection

{ 12 comments }

Can’t Live Without: Shiseido ZA Two-Way Foundation

by PJ on Sunday, March 23, 2008

in _Can't Live Without, _Japanese Brand Profile, -Shiseido, -ZA, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Shiseido ZA Two-Way Foundation)
This favorite foundation of mine got a very brief mention in my post on my foundation routine almost precisely a year ago (the one in the cherry-pink case). After I did a couple of Foundation Face-Offs (SUQQU vs. Chanel and Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or), I thought I should highlight my favorite foundation for the past few years.

Launched in 1997, ZA is a drugstore brand from Shiseido that is targeted at those in the mid-20’s. What is interesting about ZA is that it is a Shiseido line that is not sold in Japan. According to ZA’s website, it is available in Singapore, Hong Kong, Taiwan, Malaysia, Thailand, China, Indonesia, and Hawaii.

(ZA Two-Way Foundation)
(I wear #22.)
(image from www.za-ny.com)

Even though Sofina’s Raycious is also one of my favorite foundation lines, its annual powder foundation releases over the past few years seem to be getting paler and a lot more luminous. (I prefer a satiny matte finish.) Despite their very good sebum-control efficacy, the overly luminous finish doesn’t really suit me. This is where ZA comes in (while I use Raycious foundations mainly for highlighting and precision concealing).

For me, a good foundation should even out my skin-tone (particularly the mild redness), offer a medium coverage, create a matte finish, control shine, and minimize the look of pores. ZA’s Two-Way Foundation does all of these relatively well.

Basics

SPF 20, PA ++, 8 shades (see above)

Finish

The finish is predominantly matte with a very subtle and natural luminosity.

Texture

The texture is more on the dry side (which is good for sebum control). Among major Japanese cosmetics lines that release different powder foundations for spring/summer and fall/winter, this foundation’s texture is more like that of a spring/summer release.

Coverage

The coverage is around medium, and it covers mild redness and minor imperfections quite well. (I wear #22, a light-to-medium shade with a subtle yellow undertone. It evens out my mild redness effectively and gives a very natural look.)

Pore Coverage

It offers relatively good and pleasantly long-lasting pore coverage.

Shine Control

The shine-control ability is fairly good. The slightly drier texture makes the powder absorb sebum well, and the absence of shimmery particles means that the shine does not look more pronounced than it already does. (But it is worth mentioning that Coffret D’Or’s new Beauty Lasting Pack UV has an even better shine control ability.)

Lasting Power

It has a very good lasting power, which manifests in two ways. Firstly, what happens with some powder foundations I have tried is that, after I blot out the shine for several times during the day, the foundation starts to look patchy and cakey. But I have rarely experienced this with ZA. Also, the shade of the foundation darkens very minimally and only after a very long day. Sometimes I have to have my makeup on for more than 12 hours and this foundation still looks pretty good right before I take my makeup off.

Overall, this foundation really suits me. Even though there are a few other powder foundations I’ve tried that perform better in one or two categories above, this is by far one of the most well-rounded foundations that I have used so far in terms of my personal foundation-wearing preferences.

Unfortunately, for those of you that might be interested in ZA but don’t live in the regions mentioned above, I have not yet come across a website that carries ZA and delivers internationally. But I will keep you updated if I have more information.

Updated on April 2nd, 2008:

– Two readers have told me that ZA is no longer available in Hawaii.

– A reader has noticed that some ZA items are sold on-line. Please refer to the comment section for the link.

Thank you all for the alerts!

Related Posts:

Paul & Joe Foundation Primer N

Raycious Pressed Powder

Lavshcua Loose Powder

(For me, all of these work well with ZA Two-Way Foundation.)

Other items in my “Can’t Live Without” series:

Dove Body Silk

RMK Cleansing Oil N

{ 46 comments }

Superbly Blendable – Paul & Joe Light Cream Foundation

by PJ on Sunday, March 9, 2008

in -Paul & Joe, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - foundation, stash focus

(Paul & Joe
Light Cream Foundation in 03 Clair)

Most of the time, I wear a powder foundation, and my favorite by far is Shiseido ZA’s Two-Way Foundation (which I will be talking about in two weeks). In short, it has good coverage, controls shine fairly well, covers pores effectively, and is long-lasting.

But, occasionally, mostly in winter, I am tempted to play with liquid or cream foundations. At 26 pounds in the UK (around 51 USD), Paul & Joe‘s Light Cream Foundation (SPF 15 PA ++) would be a little too expensive as something to experiment with from time to time. But when I saw it at 13 pounds during the winter sale after Christmas last year, I decided to take it home.

I have used it for quite a few times, and here are my thoughts:

Texture & Consistency: The name “Light Cream” is not a very accurate description of the consistency, but almost in a good way. It is actually a lot more fluidy than many liquid foundations I have tried. I tend to go for a light and liquidy texture rather than a creamier texture, so I am very happy with the smooth double-cream consistency.

Slip & Blendability: There are some quite liquidy foundations that don’t have enough slip and dry too quickly to be blended evenly. Not this one. Out of all the liquid/cream foundations I have tried, this one probably has the best slip. It spreads and blends so easily that it feels like a smooth moisturizer.This is by far the best aspect of this foundation.

Finish: It imparts a luminous sheen, without any visible shimmer. Even though the finish is not overly shiny, I’d still set the foundation with a matte loose/pressed powder. (Also, please note that this foundation is not formulated to control shine.)

Coverage: I have come across a couple of reviews of this item where users praise the good coverage. But I suspect that this observation is based on the comparison with other Paul & Joe foundations, as the brand is known for sheer and ultra-natural foundations. I would still describe Light Cream Foundation’s coverage as light (not even light-to-medium).

Pore Coverage: I have very rarely come across a liquid/cream foundation that gives the pore coverage I want, and I always use a loose/pressed powder afterwards for that purpose. So I didn’t expect much. But because it has a superb texture and slip and it adheres to the skin well, the pore-diffusing ability is fair.

Lasting Power: Due to the sheer coverage, it is not easy to tell how good the lasting/staying power is. Considering the coverage does retain for a good number of hours, the lasting power appears to be relatively satisfactory.

Even though this foundation has an exceptionally pleasing texture and slip, it falls short on coverage. After using it for several times, I actually decided to use it more as a primer and then use a powder foundation to gently add coverage and matte out the shine. For me, this item works the best this way.

(Light Cream Foundation was replaced by Light Cream Foundation N, which is why this original version was being reduced. Currently it is not available at UK Paul & Joe counters anymore. But, several authorized on-line retailers still carry it. Please check the shop list on Paul & Joe’s global website for details. Some shops ship internationally.)

Related Posts on Foundations:

Foundation Face-Off – Lunasol vs. Coffret D’Or

Foundation Face-Off – Chanel vs. SUQQU

Related Posts on Paul & Joe:

Paul & Joe Face Powder
(another Paul & Joe acquisition during the sale)

Loving Japanese Brands – Paul & Joe
(my take on Paul & Joe)

Japanese Brands Available in the UK
(and where to get them from elsewhere)

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