makeup

(Clockwise from upper left:
Erth Minerals Foundation in 2.3

Eyeshadows in Fern, Night, and Snow

Bronzer in Glow,

Eyeshadows in Rose and Carbon )

More and more mineral makeup lines have been trying to grab a share of the market, apart from major players like Bare Escentuals. Erth Minerals (not “Earth”, to be clear…) is one of them.

Their website describes their foundations as matte and offering excellent coverage, which attracted my attention. After trying them out, I actually wouldn’t describe them as either. They are semi-matte and provide medium (on the sheer side) coverage. There is no obvious shimmer and the finish is all very natural.

For me personally, one drawback is the staying powder. On my oily skin, the foundation started to melt in about two hours (in the less-than-warm British summer). I would not recommend this for people with oily skin or with oily T-zone.

On the other hand, Moth Veil is a good finishing powder for me. Soft and silky, it mattifies my skin and conceals pores nicely (after my usual foundation). Only one shade is available, but I think it is translucent enough to suit most skin-tones.

Their eyeshadows work nicely on me too (I don’t have particularly oily eyelids). All the shades I’ve got are sheer and with multi-color sparkles. My favorites are Snow (pearly white), Rose (very pale pink), and Carbon (dark charcoal, can be doubled as an eyeliner). The sparkles make Snow and Carbon particularly beautiful, while Carbon is great for the smoky-eye look.

I need to point out that the eyeshadow in Night, which appears to be a pastel blue in the container (seen in the photo), looks almost completely grey when applied. Even though the website describes the shade as “deep blue”, it is just too much of an ashy grey to be called blue. This can make on-line ordering confusing.

Since it is also the case with von Natur Lip Shimmer in Sweet Violet (a rosy purple in the container, a brownish brick-red when applied), I wonder whether the blue pigment used in mineral makeup in general is simply not delivering. (I have never experienced this kind of color inconsistency with brands not marketed as mineral makeup.) If you have any similar experience, I would very much like to know about it.

On the whole, mineral makeup, with its simple composition, does not irritate my sensitive skin, but it takes much longer to apply. No surprise, it is the case with Erth Minerals. If you want your foundation to give you a good coverage and your colors to be vibrant, you might need to look elsewhere. But if you prefer your makeup to be sheer and natural (and with shimmer for the eyes), then Erth Minerals will be worth considering.

Related posts:
Von Natur Mineral Powder Foundation
Von Natur Mineral Color Makeup

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(Helena Rubinstein Lash Queen Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 26-27, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

We all know that beauty ads are often about visual impact. Pores are blurred, lines are erased, makeup is retouched, and hair is re-textured. Perfection is what we aspire to, and it is what they are presenting.

Last week, UK’s Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) found L’Oréal in breach of advertising rules after they admitted that, in their TV ad for Telescopic Mascara, Penelope Cruz wore false eyelashes. In their future ads, L’Oréal must include a statement in the ad if false lashes are used. Apart from this, L’Oréal will have to make it clear whether claims like “up to 60% longer lashes” refer to the appearance, not the actual length. (Read the full story in The Guardian.)

I wonder why ASA didn’t do this earlier, but I also wonder whether there is any point in doing it.

Have a look at a few more ads:

(Helena Rubinstein Surrealist Mascara ad,
p. 28-29, October 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Clinique Lash Power Mascara ad,
p. 92-93, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(L’Oréal Volume Shocking Waterproof Mascara ad,
p. 84-85, August 2006, Biteki magazine)

(Notice that three of the four ads appear in the same issue.)

Obviously, there is a difference between stylized eyelashes above and false eyelashes that are meant to blend in with and enhance the real ones. But, in certain contexts, the difference is almost irrelevant. While I do believe in transparent advertising, I do think most of us consumers are (and should be) savvy enough to know what to take away from advertisements. Some ads are more visual than informational, and they are designed to appeal to our senses more than anything else.

Here is a spoof of the TV ad in a comedy sketch show (aired on BBC several months ago), which is very funny but makes a similar point.

One random thought: At least we can put on false eyelashes if we want to, whereas we can’t digitally enhance our image in others’ (or our) eyes……

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(pictured: Rimmel Underground Light Beam Lip Gloss
in #100 In the Mix)

My taste in lip glosses is quite extreme. At one end, I like glossy, glassy, shiny, and luxuriously syrupy lip glosses. At the other end, I go for the kind of healthy, natural, and moist sheen I get after a shower or after I eat a piece of juicy watermelon.


While it’s not difficult to find very syrupy lip glosses, I hadn’t really found any lip gloss that gave me that little touch of natural sheen…until I tried Rimmel Underground Light Bean Lip Gloss. (When it comes to lip balms, Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve excels in this.)

The one I have, #100 In the Mix, is a very sheer pale pink. It is not the color that attracts me. It is the finish. It is that only-slightly wet finish (not glossy or shiny) that I have been looking for. It doesn’t look (or feel) like I am putting anything on. The sheen seems to be from within the lips.

The gadgetry is worth a mention. There is a mirror on the side and a built-in LED light. A bit bizarre as you might think, the light can be as useful as you make it to be, especially on a night out.

(flaunting the beam)

(still showing off…)


If you like a thick lip gloss that layers and layers, this one is not for you. But if you like something ultra-natural, this Rimmel Underground lip gloss will probably be your pick of the day!

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I can’t take credit for this description of Kate, Kanebo‘s consistently successful drugstore line.

One reader, Tammy, left a comment under one of my posts on Lavshuca and asked about Kate. She described Kate as “Lavshuca’s edgier, darker sister“. (Both are Kanebo’s “daughters”.)

She couldn’t have put it any better!

But so far I have never bought anything from Kate. (I almost did for several times though.) Somehow the brand does not appeal to me. But, am I not edgy? Am I not dark enough for Kate??

Well, looking at my avatar….

.

(Well hello!)

…ummm……maybe not. (I do blush too easily!!)

Kate definitely has an edgier image (its slogan “No More Rules” sums it up), while Lavshuca is all very dreamy (yep that’s me). But Kate is also one of the most established and best-selling drugstore brands in Japan. It has a strong brand identity and has survived a lot of competition (against the new wave of drugstore brands such as Integrate, Kiss, Makemania and Love Clover).

You can see some of Kate’s TV commercials on YouTube to see how Kanebo is branding Kate.

Aside from the image, some of Kate’s popular items include:

Dual Carat eyeshadow duos
Deep Eyes N eyeshadow palettes
Line Spicy eyeshadow palettes
Glam Trick Eyes eyeshadow palettes
Super Sharp Liner eyeliners

When it comes to continuously releasing attention-grabbing items, I also have to hand it to Kate. The wide array of eyeshadow palettes and the recent cream eyeliner and loose eyeshadow have indeed given Kate that little extra (and almost semi-professional) edge. (I guess this is what I mean by product designs under one of my Anna Sui posts.)

So, have you tried anything from Kate? And what’s your favorite? Let me know!

I can be convinced!

.

Updated on December 31st, 2012:

Finally I purchased my first ever Kate item, Gradical Eyes A in GD-1!

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Shiseido’s Integrate Gracy will be one of the latest drugstore lines in Japan. (The logo is instantly recognizable as the sister brand of Integrate.)

Launched in Japan on August 21st, Integrate Gracy is targeted mainly at consumers in their 50’s, with understated packaging and timeless, elegant, and wearable colors. Also, all the products are fragrance-free, which can be a huge plus for people across all ages.

Integrate Gracy is not the first drugstore brand in Japan to specifically appeal to a more mature clientèle. Kanebo’s Evita (skincare and foundation) and Media (foundation and color makeup) are two examples. Now it’s Shiseido’s turn to add a new player.

The packaging is predominantly black and the overall look reminds me of Media and another of Shiseido’s drugstore lines, Selfit. I actually slightly prefer Integrate Gracy’s packaging to Integrate’s, which I think is painfully plain. (The case of Integrate Gracy’s loose powder looks simple and elegant.)

The line-up is vast and is actually larger than Integrate (launched in August 2006, targeting consumers in their 20’s and 30’s). It features a full range of foundation products, which Integrate does not have at the moment. It includes cream/liquid/powder foundation, primers, concealer, and loose/pressed powder. I think it is quite exciting.

The color makeup includes lipsticks, lip liners, blushers, eyeshadows, eyeliners, brow pencils, mascaras, and nail colors.

The target audience is very specific. But good prices and good quality are definitely for everyone!!

Source: Nikki Net

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(pictured: my Anna Sui items)

Anna Sui, the mother of dreamy packaging and the Gothic princess of the cosmetics land, will release its fall 2007 collection in August. You’ll find:

NEW Sui Rouge V (8 shades)
NEW Liquid Eye Color (10 shades)
NEW Mini Rouge (with chain and mirror, 10 shades)
NEW Pressed Powder M (with marble patterns, 3 shades, limited editions)
Nail Color (5 new shades, limited editions)

The Mini Rouge, with rose decorative details, looks very cute and reminds me of one of my favorite Anna Sui items, the discontinued Ring Rouge (a lip color housed in a ring, see lower left on the photo above).

Even though the quality of Anna Sui’s products have remain consistent, the past several collections looked lackluster and tiresome and lacked interesting ideas. (I also don’t like the fact that it left the UK several years ago!) This collection looks better, but I would still love to see more ingenious and innovative product designs and to see Anna Sui reclaim her edgy identity.

Related Post: Loving Japanese Brand (2-7): Anna Sui

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(My three beloved Guerlain lip glosses:
KissKiss Gloss in #02,
Terracotta Gloss & Shine in #71,
Guerlain by Emilio Pucci Lip Gloss in #03 Sparking Sea)

The Guerlain Japanese website has been updated with the Guerlain fall 2007 collection. (Many western cosmetics lines update their Japanese websites much more timely. It is often worth checking them even if you don’t understand the language.)

Titled “True Elegance“, the collection features understated and sophisticated shades. The new Radiant Shadow Duo & Liner, with two powder eyeshadows and one cream eyeliner, looks chic and glamorous. The muted colors are great for a grown-up look. The collection includes:

Radiant Blush (2 new shades)
KissKiss Laque (2 new shades)
KissKiss Lipstick (6 new shades)
NEW Lip Pencils (8 shades)
NEW Radiant Shadow Duo & Liner (6 palettes)
NEW Lip Lift (lip primer)

The stunningly beautiful jewel-like casing of KissKiss Lipstick is designed by French jewelry designer Herv
é van der Straeten (once for Yves Saint Laurent and Christian Lacroix). The style has been applied to KissKiss Gloss and KissKiss Laque and is now extending to the new Lip Lift and Radiant Shadow Duo & Liner. I hope Guerlain will further extend it to the blushers (whose current casing design I never really like).

The Guerlain fall 2007 collection will be out in August.

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(Clockwise from top:
Shine On Lipstick in #06 Pink-Pink,
Shine On Lipstick in #02 Dolce Vita,
Color Perfect Lipstick in #33A Attitude,
Color Perfect Lipstick in #32 Berry Rich,
Moist Matte Lipstick in #06 Energized,
Moist Matte Lipstick in #01 Cream Pie,
Velvet Lips Creamy Lipcolor in #212 Glamorous,
Velvet Lips Creamy Lipcolor in #206 Lavish)


All the four ranges of Milani lipsticks have one impressive merit in common: they all have a wonderfully creamy texture. Non-drying and very moisturizing, they are a great joy to wear.

All (apart from Shine On Lipstick) are quite intensely-pigmented. (But even Shine On, a supposedly sheerer range, is more pigmented than some other sheer lipsticks around.)

The four ranges cover various finishes. Shine On is wet, frosty, and glossy. Velvet Lips and Color Perfect leave lips smooth with a sensual luster, while Moist Matte has the sophisticated and grown-up semi-matte finish.

My personal favorite is probably Moist Matte. It is particularly important for matte lipsticks to be rich and moisturizing. Otherwise they just look chalky. Milani’s Moist Matte definitely gains points on this.

PJ’s Picks:
–Color Perfect Lipstick in #32 Berry Rich (far right on photo):
This intense dark berry-red will look so glamorous on dark skin-tones.

–Shine On Lipstick in #06 Pink-Pink (top on photo):

A girlie frosty-pink, very flattering for most skin-tones.

–Velvet Lips Creamy Lipcolor in #206 Lavish (far left on photo):

Striking and edgy against fair skin-tones, this magenta shade bursts with retro flair. (Do keep eye makeup to the minimum to do justice to this electrifying shade.)

Seasonal Pick for Fall 2007:
–Moist Matte Lipstick in #01 Cream Pie (bottom on photo):
With a wave of neutral tones coming our way this fall, this delicious semi-matte milk-chocolate shade (most suitable for medium and dark skin-tones) will go superbly well with your neutral eyes.

Coming up: more fall 2007 makeup collections!

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(pictured: my Lunasol items)

Lunasol’s official website has not been updated with the fall collection yet, but have a look at shots of the Lunasol fall 2007 collection from the printed catalog on a Japanese blog.

The collection will be out in Japan on August 17th, 2007.

I love that there are five different looks in the collection. (It has been done for their spring 2007 collection, where each of the four looks includes coordinating eyeshadow palette, lipstick, lip palette, and nail color.) Named Cat’s Eye, Alexandrite, Diamond, Sapphire, and Ruby, they are like five mini collections.

For fall 2007, each look includes a five-color eyeshadow palette (a first for Lunasol), a liquid eyeliner, a lipstick, a lip gloss, and a nail color. Among them, I am particularly excited about Sapphire and Ruby, which are very striking and distinctive. (See my pattern here? I am adding another member into my blue-tinted lip gloss collection.)

Packaging-wise, Lunasol’s simple and sophisticated style never fails to impress me. When Lunasol was launched in 1999, it featured bronze and silver checked-pattern cases (see powder case on top and lipstick on bottom of the photo above). In 2003, the color scheme changed into a low-key dark brown. Several seasons ago, the finish became much more reflective, as what we see now. I like the fact that the packaging never changes drastically. Instead, it evolves with the time.

Aside from its superior quality and consistently great seasonal collections, the distinctive but understated image is part of Lunasol’s appeal.

Related Article: Loving Japanese Brands (7 of 7): Lunasol

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(pictured: my HR items…and I want more!)

Helena Rubinstein is the one that said “There are no ugly women, only lazy ones.” Whether you agree with it or not, it cannot be denied she more than made her mark in the beauty industry.

I always think there is a sense of sophistication and intelligence in her makeup line. The packaging during the 1990’s incorporated colors and finishes that resembled marble and gold. There was a great deal of quiet confidence and assertiveness about it, which really appealed to me. The current reflective copper-tone packaging has a very glamorous edge.

Helena Rubinstein’s mascaras (along with Lancome’s Extencil) started the craze for ultra long, voluminous, and curly eyelashes in Japan about a decade ago, lasting all the way until today. HR’s various mascaras have continued to be on the best-selling lists there as well.

Skincare-wise, I used to really like their cleansing and toning products, as they were gentle to my sensitive skin.

I am aware that her cosmetics line is still available in many countries (see the list on the Helena Rubinstein website), but it is no longer available in the UK or US. I really hope it will be available again soon! (By the way, it is available in Japan…that’s one more reason to go to Japan for……)

Any HR product that you have used and liked? Let me know!

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