makeup

I have talked about SUQQU several times, and I have praised its strong themes and stunning ad campaigns for its seasonal makeup collections.

Sometimes it only takes a single unique product in the collection to warrant all the building up to it:

Powder Eye Shadow in Daichi (EX-51)

Why? On the website and on the leaflet I got, it just looked like any ubiquitous deep brown eyeshadow. But when I tested it on the back of my hand, I realized that I had never tried anything else like this before.

The smooth (almost-creamy) texture, typical of SUQQU’s eyeshadows and blushers, is still there, but this brown eyeshadow has twinkly deep midnight blue sparkles. The finish is so absolutely gorgeous. It is still predominantly matte, while the sparse diamond-dust deep-blue particles really stand out and shine against the matte brown background.

It must be like a clear night in the desert.

If you happen to be near a SUQQU counter, you simply have to try it.

Again and again, SUQQU shows that their products epitomize Japanese sensitivity and sensuality. It’s all very subtle but it is enough to have you in awe.

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In every February issue of Biteki magazine, it reveals the ultimate favorite cosmetics products as voted by the readers. It is always very interesting to see how some veterans battle with the newcomers.

Again, I will only list products sold internationally. (Also, I will not list what I have listed on my previous post about 2006 best-sellers in Japanese department stores.)

*SKINCARE*

Cleansing/Toning
Shu Uemura: Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O

Serum
Guerlain: Super Aqua Serum
Clarins: Contouring Facial Lift
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist
SKII: Eye Treatment Serum

Moisturizer
Creme de la Mer: Moisturizing Cream
Shiseido Cle de Peau: La Creme
SKII: Advanced Signs Treatment
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Creme
Clinique: Repairwear Intensive Eye Cream

Treatment
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch
Clinique: 15-Minute Facial

*BASE MAKEUP*

Primer
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base 02
Paul & Joe: Foundation Primer N 02

Concealer
Laura Mercier: Secret Camouflage SC-3

Foundation
RMK: Creamy Foundation

*COLOR MAKEUP*

Eye:
Chanel: 4 Powder Eyeshadows 27 (Golden Eyes)
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970 Stylish Move
RMK: Metallic Powder Eyes 11
Clinique: Cream Shaper for Eyes

Cheeks:
RMK: Ingenuous Cheeks 30
Anna Sui: Face Color Accent 300
YSL: Touche Blush 4
Shu Uemura: Glow on P Amber 83

Lips:
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal 303
Chanel: Aqualumiere 67
Stila: Lip Glaze (Passion Fruit)
Dior: DiorKiss 758

(from Biteki February 2007)

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As requested by a reader, I am going to talk about my daily foundation routine.

Every foundation product I use is in powder form (loose or pressed). I have oily skin, and anything liquidy or creamy (liquid foundation, creamy concealer,…) doesn’t stay on very well.

I try to make everything simple. I almost never use a primer. I only use a daytime moisturizer with sunscreen (like Estee Lauder DayWear Plus for Oily Skin SPF 15). Then:



1. I put on my ZA 2-way foundation (pictured mid-left).

Well, 70% of the time, that’s actually it. But if I want a more polished look:

2. I put on some transparent loose powder. My favorite two at the moment are from Raycious (mid-right) and Lavshuca (top). They are both very good in disguising pores. They both have minimal shimmer but it is barely visible on the face. Or I use Raycious pressed powder (bottom-left), which is completely matte.

Occasionally, if I need to conceal a pimple (here comes the big trick):

3. I use Raycious powder foundation (bottom-right) as a concealer with the corner of a rectangular sponge and gently press the powder onto a breakout. The light-defusing particles in Raycious powder foundations (especially the earliest generations) are fantastic for precision concealing. Not only is the redness covered, the shadow around the bump is instantly less visible (so the pimple looks much flattened). I want the powder to stay absolutely put on my breakout so it is applied last.

(This trick works wonder for my friends as well when I help them with makeup.)

My suggestion is to always take time doing the foundation. The foundation from a rushed application never stays on well. Taking time and doing everything slowly, gently, and carefully makes a huge difference, even with exactly the same products. (My routine is straightforward enough so it takes 10 minutes from 1 to 3, but I always make sure I don’t rush things through.)

My next post will be about some favorite cosmetics products as voted by Japanese consumers.

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I came across an interesting feature on the January issue of Biteki magazine. It lists best-sellers in each major department store throughout Japan and compares what customers like in different parts of the country. Today I am listing some of them as a whole (non-areal-specific) for you to have a look and I am focusing on products from brands available internationally.

*Skincare/Bodycare*

Shiseido Cle de Peau: Lotion Tendre
Clinique: Turnaround Concentrate
Origins: Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Protection Correction Serum
RMK: Skin Smoother
RMK: Face Protector SPF 31
Biotherm: Celluli Peel
Clarins: Total Body Lift
SKII: Skin Treatment Essence

*Base Makeup*

RMK: Makeup Base
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base Mat
RMK: Liquid Foundation
YSL: Touche Eclat
Clinique: All About Eyes Concealer
Clinique: Perfectly Real Makeup

*Color Makeup*

Bobbi Brown: Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner
Helena Rubinstein: Lash Queen Water-Proof

Lancome: L’Extreme Water-Proof

Lancome: Juicy Tube 17
Chanel: Rouge Allure 04, 13, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 434
RMK: Ingenious Cheeks 29
RMK: Water Color Eyes 04
Anna Sui: Nail Color 333
Paul & Joe: Nail Color 26

(from Biteki January 2007)

One thing I have noticed is that there is one lipstick that tops virtually all the department store top-selling lists: Dior Addict Ultra Shine 2 in 340 Shiniest Peach. Ultra Shine 2 is only available in Asia at the moment, but the very exclusive Harvey Nichols in London actually has it!

Coming up in my next post, I will be sharing my daily foundation routine.

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There has been a lot of hype in mineral makeup in the UK at the moment. When I came across a big beauty feature on mineral makeup on Grazia magazine (it is like US and Allure combined) last week, it’s as if the mineral madness has really started to take shape here.

This major media coverage coincides with my first trial of mineral makeup, with products from von Natur. It is an organic cosmetics brand, and they just launched a collection of mineral makeup.

I have heard a lot about mineral makeup before and how it is compared with non-mineral makeup, so I am particularly interested in how their mineral makeup products figure in the whole spectrum of comments. Today I will talk about their mineral Powder Foundation that I received (and I’ll review some of their other mineral makeup products in my next post).

Overall, the Powder Foundation lives up to the kind of hype among mineral makeup lovers:

1. It offers great coverage and it doesn’t feel heavy, which I love. The coverage is medium at the very least and can be built up much fuller. It can even double as a concealer with the right brush.

2. It doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin, since the foundation is simply made of crushed mineral powder that is not absorbed by the skin.

3. The staying power is quite good. It stays on for the whole day with minimal fading. Also, the color stays nice and fresh and doesn’t darken on my oily skin.

4. The main ingredients of the foundation, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide (the typical ingredients in mineral makeup), are both ingredients to protect the skin from UVA. They give the foundation a very beneficial skincare property.

But there are some downsides as well:

1. Even with some practice, the application takes a bit of time. For the 2-way powder foundation that I usually use, it takes about 5 minutes to do the whole face. For the mineral powder foundation, it takes at least 15 minutes. It takes a lot of gradual layering and buffing to get an even coverage for the whole face.

2. The powder has a great deal of shimmer, which doesn’t go very well with my oily skin. (I sometimes layer a matte loose powder to reduce the shine.) I hope they will bring out a matte version, which I am sure I’ll like better. (But, on the other hand, for people who want that glowing luminosity, this can probably be a good choice.)

3. The loose powder is not the most convenient thing to travel with. A pressed form will be much better in this case.

Despite the downsides, it is a good foundation, simply because of the good coverage and staying power. It is a relatively new collection and hopefully they will bring out different formulations. Maybe a matte pressed powder? Then it will be everything I want from a mineral foundation.

In my next post, I’ll talk about some other von Natur mineral makeup products that I tried, which include eyeshadows, blusher, and bronzing powder.

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#2: Jill Stuart (“Brilliant Veil” Collection)

The Look: “Brilliant Veil” is quite an accurate description of the colors on offer here. Medium-pigmented colors add soft hues to the face with a great amount of glow and sheen. The emphasis is on the eyes, with the launch of Jill Stuart’s first collection of eye palettes.

Key Item: Brilliance Eyes palette in 04 Gem Amethyst (reviewed earlier here). A beautiful lilac palette with featherweight powder and intense shimmer and glitter. It gives a veil of color with dazzling and multi-dimensional sparkles. A palette that adds a bit of drama to the eyes.

Winner: Lavshuca

The Look: When I saw the ad campaign featuring the Japanese girl band PUFFY (the two girls you see as soon as you enter the Lavshuca website), I couldn’t believe their transformation. They used to be two funky girls with slightly mad hair jumping around the stage. Now they cannot look more polished and sophisticated while they still keep the coolness and edge. I guess this is the image that Lavshuca’s new collection is trying to convey: cute, fun, feminine, and with a bit of an attitude.

Key Item: Too many to mention, actually, but I will single out Eye Color Select in PK-1 (reviewed earlier here). Pink eyeshadow is hot for this spring, and this pink palette gives a couple of different looks. You can go for a soft pale pink or an intense cherry pink. The lightest shade is good as a base or a highlighter and the brown can be a natural eyeliner.

For me, it was very close between Jill Stuart and Lavshuca this season. They kept switching positions when I was finalizing my rankings. But Lavshuca wins at the end with its more complete range and updated packaging to keep the brand image fresh.

If you are interested in mineral makeup, my next post will be about von Natur’s mineral powder foundation.

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#4: T’Estimo

The Look: The whole collection (both the color and the packaging) is so pretty. The look is femine and elegant. The emphasis is on the eyes. Beautifully and delicately blended gradation from pale to soft to intense, from browbone to lashline, the single-color concept for eye makeup works seamlessly.

Key Items: Frame Impact Eyes palettes. Four eye palettes feature four gradations of colors (blue, green, lilac, and brown). Each palette comes with a cream eyeliner. Don’t be put off by the green and the blue. The colors are soft enough to look natural but pigmented enough to impart a gorgeous hue.

#3: Lunasol (“The Ultimate Skin” Collection)

The Look: The concept is to create flawless skin with the softest colors. Pale pastel colors for eyes and beige-pink for lips. The whole effect is fresh, polished, and very sophisticated.

Key Items: Skin Modelling Lips palettes (second from top on the webpage). It’s the ultimate lip kit. Each of the four palettes features a tinted lip primer, lip color, shimmer-free gloss, and shimmery gloss. The tool for sculpting the perfect pout.

(If you can get hold of the April issue of the Biteki magazine, it comes with a free DVD which is all about creating “The Ultimate Skin” using Lunasol’s latest makeup and foundation collections.)

I’ll reveal my top 2 in my next post (although you can probably guess what they are if you have read some of my previous posts). Still, don’t miss it!

After that, I will talk a bit about one growing trend — mineral makeup.

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(pictured: my Dior Addict Ultra-Nude
in #380 Undressed Mauve along with
Dior Detective Chic palette from Autumn 2006)

#6: Ayura (“Hawaiian Garden” Collection)

The Look: Sunny and breezy, with colors that brighten your eyes and your day. The combination of tropical colors in the eye palettes are unusual and fun — turquoise with lilac, orange with purple, and blue with minty green. Great when you want to be a bit more experimental.

Key Items: The three limited-edition Aqua Fix Lipglosses. Fresh and vibrant with three tiers of colors, they remind me of summer cocktails by the beach.

#5: Dior (“Dior Flight” Collection)

The Look: Chic, glamourous, and globe-trotting beauty. The Dior Flight palettes carry all the essentials (eyeshadow, blusher, and lip color), and the two 5-color eye palettes feature two very different looks (soft warm pastels and dramatic blue). The two single-color eyeshadows, white and pink, are spot-on with this season’s soft, femine, and almost-nude look. (Read a more detailed review of the collection here.)

Key Items: Dior Addict Ultra-Nude lipsticks. Definitely some of my favorite items for this season. All the five colors are sheer and wearable while giving a gloss-effect. The #380 (Undressed Mauve) that I have goes well with a variety of eyeshadows like cool pink, lilac, and pastel blue. The must-try for this season, in my opinion!

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#8: Anna Sui (“Blooms of Fascinations” Collection)

The Look: It is all about lips for Anna Sui this season, with a collection full of cute lipglosses and lipsticks in a variety of color palettes (pink, orange, red, and beige). The packaging is adorably girlie as always.

Key Items: Sui Lip Gloss. 19 sweet fruity colors of varying pigmentations. Mix and match them up!

#7: Aube by Sofina (“Splash Beauty” Collection)

The Look: Ultra-shiny and ultra-glossy, this collection brings a watery transparency and a burst of radiance. All five eye palettes feature a glittery eye gloss that can work as a base or a top coat, giving a wet-look effect. The lipsticks impart a gloss-like finish, and the shimmery powder is great for face as well as body.

Key Items: Jewelry Shower Eyes palettes. The name says it all. Apart from the eye gloss, there are gradations of pink, purple, blue, and brown in each palette. The shades are relatively muted, but reasonably so due to the high shine of the eye gloss.

Related posts:
PJ’s Top Ten: Spring 2007 Makeup Round-Up (#10, #9)

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In the coming posts, I reveal my top 10 of this season’s makeup collections. (Do let me know what tops your list!)

Here we go, in reverse order:

#10: The Body Shop (Vital Brights Collection)

The Look: It is a feast of colors. Cool-tone eyes, rosy cheeks, syrupy lips, and a bit of tan. It is a small collection, but it is one of the most colorful additions from The Body Shop for a few seasons.

Key Items: Eye Color Fusion in blue and green. (Wear them in moderation!)

#9: SUQQU (Daichimegami “Goddess of Earth”)

The Look: Strong,distinctive, and coherent, it is about shades of blue (sea/sky) and beige (earth/desert). Do check out the link above…it is an absolutely beautiful presentation of the collection from the official website. (Japanese brands are so good at this.)

Key Items: Powder Eye Shadow in shades of blue. A strong midnight blue or a bright powdery sky blue…the choice is yours.

Before revealing the rest of my top 10, my next two posts are going to be about Oscar fashion 2007. Stay tuned!

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