makeup

Over-Hyped Products: My Personal Take

by PJ on Sunday, February 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

There are many products that are always heavily featured in magazines and I am sure you sometimes think “They are not that good.” You might have used them and thought they were shockingly average, or you simply don’t fall for the hype.

For me personally, these products are over-hyped in different ways:

1. Creme de la Mer (hype despite of the price)

I admit I have never used it, so I can’t say whether it is a good moisturizer in itself for me. However, I don’t think any moisturizer (even if it is well-formulated) should cost this much, especially when algae (included in this product) is one of the cheapest and easily accessible ingredient.

Some people say they just want to have a bit of luxury in life. We all do sometimes, but it is a luxury *only if* it is better than anything else!

Unfortunately, there are loads more other products that fall into this ultra-premium category. Ignorant customers can easily be lured into them.

2. Lancome Juicy Tube (hype despite of the quality)

Its price is fine. It is affordable. But many magazines claim this is the best lip gloss. I also read that, on Ebay UK, it is one of the most searched items under the Health and Beauty category.

I have used it and I do think it is good. The slanted applicator is convenient and the gloss stays put and lasts for hours. But most of my other lip glosses give the same performances and I don’t understand the hype of it.

3. Kose Sekkisei Lotion (hype despite of the irritating ingredient)

Readers from many Asian countries will know what I am talking about here. It has been sold for more than 20 years and it is still one of the most popular toners in Japan. It is claimed to give skin brightness and luminosity. A popular way to use this toner is to soak a tissue mask in it and wear the mask for a good 20 minutes.

I bought this almost ten years ago and it proved again that alcohol and I really couldn’t get along, especially when there is so much of it (imagine Clinique Clarifying Lotion 3). I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again…alcohol is a major skin irritant and should not be added to any skincare product.

4. Benefit (hype despite of the packaging)

Right, this is only about the look, and feel free to disagree, because packaging is totally subjective and all views are valid. It seems like many people love the quirky and fun packaging of Benefit. I do like some of the imaginative names of the products, but that’s as far as it goes. The packaging is indeed very catchy so I understand why it stands out, but I personally really don’t like it at all. I don’t like cartoon drawings on my cosmetics. They just seem too child-like.

I tend to like packaging that is glamorous and relatively understated, like Chanel and Dior. I do girlie too, like Paul & Joe and Anna Sui. But Benefit is just too much for me. (So is Stila.)

(The only Benefit product I am interested in is the fragrance Maybe Baby. I like the smell and the bottle is simple but glamorous and elegant. But this look is not typical of most Benefit products……)

I’ll stop here and let you guys think about what products you think are over-hyped.

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Paul & Joe Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, January 31, 2007

in -Paul & Joe, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup


(Pictured: my Paul & Joe stash)

Paul & Joe is changing the packaging of its makeup line this season. But it is really hard to notice a difference (without seeing the real items, that is). It seems like it is a different shade of pink, a more reflective finish, and slightly more pronounced floral patterns. But these changes seem so subtle that I wonder if it was worth the hassle.

There are whole new collections for lipsticks and eyeshadows. I am sure the new packaging will expand to other products later. The slightly more interesting items are the two-color facecolors. Some of the colors can be used as blushers, and some highlighters.

Packaging-wise, the limited edition items (almost always three lipsticks and three eyeshadows, featuring original Paul & Joe prints) are not as good as the hummingbird collection from Christmas last year. (Sort of there but not quite…it will take a lot to beat that collection.)

I am going to Fenwick on Bond Street next week. I will still definitely have a look.

Newsflash: I have got the new Jill Stuart eyeshadow palette! It’s so pretty!! I will review it later.

Next post: I will talk about Haute Couture for the first time here. The breathtaking Christian Dior Haute Couture for Spring/Summer 2007 will be my topic.

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More on Lavshuca Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Thursday, January 25, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lavshuca, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup


(pictured: my Lavshuca stash)

(Read my previous Lavshuca post here.)

First of all, the new Lavshuca site was launched a couple of days ago to include the new collection.

After reading a lot of information about the various new collections, I think Lavshuca wins it for me this season. The slight modification of the packaging (from pale pink to plum) is working for me. Still exquisite and princessy. The vast array of new colors is exciting as well.

I have also decided on what to have:

Jewelry Lips: Amethystia Groom PK-1

I was choosing between this one and Viva Garnetica RS-1, but I was confident that PK-1 wouldn’t be too pink for me.

Gloss Stick: PK-3

I think I can go more pink on the gloss, hence the choice.

Eye Color Select: BU-1 (and maybe PK-1 as well)

I mentioned that I wanted to go for PK-1. But then it was actually off my shopping list for a while. Later I saw some photos of the palettes (not studio shots), and I fell in love with them again and thought BU-1 was also a great choice as well. Now I am not sure whether I will have both. I think I probably will. They are only about 8 pounds each.

Ummm…later I noticed that the BU-1 eye palette and the PK-1 lipstick were exactly what were used on Puffy on the ad shots…was I being subliminally influenced??

I might do *another* post after I get these items!

Next post: Avene Thermal Water.

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Dior Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, January 24, 2007

in -Dior, 2007 Spring, makeup, makeup - lip color


(pictured: my new Dior Addict Ultra-Nude
and Detective Chic from last fall)


With nearly all the spring collections revealed in my lovely Japanese cosmetics magazines, I have been quite disappointed with most major European brands. Usually I’d like the Dior limited edition product or some new things from Chanel. But for this season, I am not liking the Dior Flight palette or Chanel’s Lumiere d’Artifices (sequin eye palette), and my interest in YSL’s new eye palettes had dwindled even before they were available nationwide.

In the next post, I will review Lavshuca’s new collection, possibly my favourite collection of the season. Today it is about Dior.

First of all, as I said, I am not very excited about the Dior Flight palette. It is inspired by the same-name bag and accessory collection of the house of Dior. But, as you might have already guessed, I am not a huge fan of the Dior Flight bags. I don’t really like the “Remove Before Flight” tag, even though orange is one of my favorite colors for clothing.

I much prefer the Dior Detective collection, and the Dior Detective Chic palette (pictured above) is great.

To be fair, the colors in both of the Dior Flight palettes are good. I do prefer the one with the pink blusher (which is the one with the black eyeshadow). (The other blusher is slightly too peachy for my complexion.) But for something this pricey, I have to like everything about it to want to have it. (It costs the equivalent of 69 USD in the UK, while it costs 55 USD in the US.)

The two 5-color eye palettes are a bit of a hit and miss. While Pink Attitude features soft colors and is very wearable, Myriad is just a bit too blue. Even the Dior SA I was chatting with admitted that the palette would only suit a few people.

The two single-color eyeshadows released in the UK are obviously a teaser for a full newly-packaged collection (which is currently available in the US) Both Pink Candy and Icy White can be tricky colors to wear, especially Pink Candy. (If you don’t wear glittery pink eyeshadows right, you will look like you have irritated eyelids. A sheer, soft and gentle finish is the key!)

But I like the change of the packaging. I think it will be a matter of time before it carries over to the blushers. THEN I will consider buying a Dior blusher.

I think the best aspect of the new collection is the limited edition line of lipsticks “Dior Addict Ultra-Nude“. First of all, love the silvery case with the Dior logo in pale pink. I always like the shape of the Dior Addict lipsticks, but I never like the blue case and the white case of the Dior Addict Pearl Shine collection looks a bit too plasticky. So when I saw the soft slivery cases, I was intrigued.

Also, all the colors are soft and sheer (but not too sheer). There are not full of pearly glitter. Instead, they have an understated gleam. “Exactly what I like,” I thought. I could easily wear Body Pink, Skin Beige, and Undressed Mauve (because of their semi-transparent finish), and I decided to take Undressed Mauve because the soft-purple pink is something I want to try a bit more.

I like the way the color merges into my original lip color. It is indeed a nude look, and in a flattering way. I do have to say that the lipstick is slightly drying, but, with better prepping and maybe a bit of a clear gloss on top, it should be fine.

(I need to mention that the actual color of the lipstick is lighter and more purple. It seems very red due to my yellowish lighting.)

Overall, this collection is not as fascinating as some of Dior’s previous ones. But it is still one of the best among the European brands for this season.

Next Post: Lavshuca’s Spring 2007 Collection

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Paula Begoun: A Consumer Advocate

by PJ on Sunday, January 21, 2007

in makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

I know that Paula Begoun sells her own cosmetics, but for me, I see her as a consumer advocate. I have never tried or bought her products, but I have learned a lot from her in terms of choosing suitable products for myself in my local drug stores and department stores. She knows about the science behind the research and manufacturing of cosmetics and she reviews products accordingly.

I happened to come across her website in the mid-90’s when I started to acquaint myself with the world of the Internet. (That seems so long ago!) What I noticed first is her opposition to alcohol in any skincare product. Ever since I started to use skincare products regularly, I noticed that my skin could not tolerate any alcohol. But, at the time, I was confused by what I had been reading. Some said alcohol could contribute to better penetration of other ingredients and some said it acted as a sterilizer.

But, for me, all alcohol did was irritating my skin, making it dry and red.

I thought what Paula said about alcohol made more sense to me, which started my interest in reading more about her views. She was also one of the first people who really emphasized the importance of using proper sunscreen products all year long.

This coincided with what my mother had always been telling me. She regularly went to health seminars in our local hospital and she always said (in the mid-90’s when the idea of everyday sun protection was not as pervasive as it is today) that a good sunscreen lotion was the best anti-ageing product. She uses a sunscreen lotion every day, and her skin looks fantastic for her age.

So, since then, I have been reading what Paula has to say about skincare and makeup products, and many of my own views are influenced by her.

Besides alcohol and sunscreen, I agree with her on the issue of eye creams. Simply speaking, there is generally no need to buy a separate moisturizer for the eye area. Most well-formulated moisturizers can be used around the eyes. Of course if a facial moisturizer has ingredients to exfoliate the skin, then it shouldn’t be used around the eyes. But what is usually the case is that the face cream and the eye cream that come in the same moisturizer range feature almost identical ingredients. If the face cream works for your skin, it should usually work around your eyes as well. I personally think eye creams are a marketing myth. They have more or less the same ingredients but cost around three times as much as the face cream equivalents in terms of unit price.

Some people think Paula’s credibility has been going down since she launched her own line. But for me, she still has the same knowledge and she doesn’t stop recommending other products that she thinks are good. Some people also point out that she doesn’t have a formal qualification to do what she is doing. But, she has the knowledge and her views are scientifically supported. Also, the studies she makes references to are not funded by private cosmetics companies. Aren’t these the most important things here?

Even in terms of the one thing I used to slightly question her, she has been modifying her view. Around ten years ago, I remember she used to almost only recommend makeup items with a matte finish and those in neutral earthy tones. I did generally agree with her view, since soft matte neutral colors suit most people for most occasions. It is the most sensible recommendation for the mass public. But I still thought she could be a little less conservative about both color and finish.

But a couple of years ago, I was pleasantly surprised to read that she thought any person could wear almost any color as long as the intensity and the application are right. (See here.) And she indeed has recommended products like Maybelline’s Dream Mousse Eyecolor and Blush, both of which have noticeable shimmer.

Overall, Paula Begoun is someone I have learned a lot from. I have learned to read the ingredient list and not to fall for the exaggerating claims of the cosmetics companies. What a product can do lies in the ingredient list (not in the ads), and we should have the knowledge to learn about what we put on our faces everyday.

We don’t necessarily need her products. We just need her knowledge.

Finally, two important reminders for everyone:

1: Learn to read the ingredient list. (Let’s all be well-informed consumers!)

2: Wear a moisturizer with proper UVA and UVB protection every day!
(See here for what ingredients you should look for.)

My next post: Dior’s Spring 2007 Collection!

(Edited on April 19, 2007: There is a great interview with Paula Begoun here.)

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Avon: It Will Be a Long Way…

by PJ on Saturday, January 13, 2007

in makeup, skincare

I got my first ever Avon catalog a couple of days ago. I have never used anything from Avon before and I am not sure what I should be looking for. I really think this is more or less what the general public in the UK are feeling toward the brand.

The reason for me to order a catalog (which is easier to browse than the website) is that I wanted to know more about Avon products after I watched a program about Avon on BBC a few weeks ago. It looked into the recent expansion of Avon in the UK and what difficulties it had been experiencing.

It mentioned several key difficulties. One is the dated image of the brand. Another is the lack of A-list celebrity endorsement. Still another is the lack of a clear target consumer group.

But I personally think there is another problem. It lacks a major “cult” product to attract attention to the whole brand. When everybody around you or on an Internet forum has been saying something is good, it is quite likely that you will be interested in finding out what the fuss is about.

I’d like to use the example of DHC’s cleansing oil. In Japan, shopping for DHC products is not totally a glamorous affair. DHC mainly uses mail and telephone orders for their sales. They don’t do heavy celebrity endorsement campaigns. Their packaging is plain and far from trendy.

Overall, it is similar to Avon in the UK. But the DHC cleansing oil has been so popular in Japan that it has the ability to propel sales of other DHC products. I believe a usual pattern is for someone to start using and falling in love with the cleansing oil and then trying other DHC products as a natural progression.

Unfortunately, it is not enough to have wonderfully formulated products. Some level of hype has to be generated to grab people’s attention and for the products to fly off the shelves.

YSL has Touche Elat, Lancome has the mascaras, and Clinique has the 3-step system, but Avon is not famous for anything (at least in the UK). Sometimes it only takes one product to get the customers closer to the whole brand.

Another thing I think Avon should do in the UK is to make samples more readily available. Since we don’t have the traditional Avon ladies here (do correct me if I am wrong) and it does not have a counter, it is very hard for people to sample Avon products first before they think about whether they want to make a purchase. Even though Avon has a great money back guarantee policy (even when the product has been used), it is still a chore to pack an unsuitable product up and send it back.

What happened to me is that, after asking around, I found that many people seemed to like Avon Glazewear lipglosses. But I still don’t think I’ll make any purchase because I’d really like to try the colors first, at least on the back of my hand, just to see the pigmentation and the level of shimmer. So, even though I am quite keen to experiment in general, I am still a bit hesitant to make a purchase at the moment.

One of the things that DHC does is offering travel-size sample kits at a very low price so that people can easily afford to try a variety of products and see what they can incorporate into their existing skincare routine. That’s the way to go!

I think Avon still has a long way to go before it can make it big in the UK. Unless they get the marketing (which includes customer sampling) spot on, it will be a very long journey…

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Raycious Spring/Summer 2007 Foundation Collection

by PJ on Thursday, January 11, 2007

in -Kao, -Sofina, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(Pictured: my Raycious stash)

Raycious updated its website today to feature the latest additions, due out in February.

I love Raycious. It is more or less the only reason why Sofina is one of my favorite brands. (See my post about Sofina here, which is mostly about Raycious.)

This spring, there are three new products. The Glamorous Skin Powder will be the 8th-generation Raycious powder foundation. (The 7th-generation is the one with the three-way mirror. The link just above has a photo of it.) Again, the case looks so lovely and will definitely be added to my collection.

Along with the foundation, there are a primer and a double-tipped highlighting/shading pen.

The Crystal Skin Base is a primer that will impart a sheer luminosity. But it might look greasy on my skin after a couple of hours.

The Face Trick Duo is an interesting product. It has a highlighting cream on one end and a beige/brown contour shading cream on the other. It is for creating defined facial features and contour. Because of its creamy texture (but lighter than the usual creamy concealer), it is used before a powder foundation or after a liquid/cream foundation.

This and the Glamorous Face Powder are what I look forward to trying!

After months of anticipation, Raycious seems to have delivered products that are worth the wait. But I will pass my final judgment when I get my hands on these new products.

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Ayura Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Sunday, January 7, 2007

in -Ayura, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup

(Pictured: my Ayura stash)

The new Ayura collection includes lipglosses, eye palettes, nail colors, and aromatic face absorbent paper. It is out on January 26th.

I quite like the lipglosses. The ones with three layers seem intriguing, especially the BL one. But the layers will probably merge after several uses.

The whole collection is soft and breezy. There are no garish colors. It might lack the drama that some people look for, but for me these are lovely items that can enhance our natural beauty.

I consistently like Ayura’s seasonal makeup collections. It always has something interesting, like the stunning creamy eyeshadows last autumn.

Ayura doesn’t have the ultra ornate packaging of Anna Sui or the glamorous look of Dior. But it is the epitome of elegance. The packaging is soft and feminine and so are most of the colors in the makeup line. Moderately pigmented and without too much glitter, the understated makeup is for everyday use and for most occasions.

To me, it is a brand I can always count on, and the new makeup collection proves it again.

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Japanese vs. Western

by PJ on Thursday, January 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Paul & Joe, Suqqu, Visee, and YSL…
so which side is winning?)


Several days ago, someone in the asian_beauty community over at LiveJournal asked me whether I preferred Japanese over western cosmetics. I gave an answer but was inspired to write a longer post here.

In terms of makeup, I do actually prefer Japanese products. I have ten favorite makeup brands and seven of them are Japanese. There are three main reasons:

1. I tend to go for sheer pigmentation for eyeshadows, blushers and lipsticks.

2. I love cute/elegant/princessy (depending on the brand) packaging. I know this is purely subjective. Brands like Pout and Benefit have more than merely functional packaging and they are known for cute and quirky images respectively, but I am never a fan. Not even Stila (sorry Stila fans)…I don’t like cartoon drawings on my makeup. On the other hand, brands like Ayura and Jill Stuart can do no wrong for me.

I don’t usually put my makeup items away in toiletry bags or drawers. I arrange them beautifully and display them happily on my dressing table and on the shelves. They are part of the room and part of the decor. I choose my makeup with the same aesthetic eye as I choose a table lamp or a coffee table.

The bottom line is, with many brands that have looks that appeal to me, when I need something (be it a lipstick or a foundation), I am usually able to find something that looks great, both on my face and in front of my eyes, and I will use it with more enthusiasm and joy.

And it just happens that most of these brands are Japanese.

3. A simple reason: most Japanese makeup items are scent-free.

Skincare-wise, I don’t have a preference. When I first started using skincare products, I chose them by reading the blurbs. If they sounded like something I wanted my skin to look like and if the price was within my budget, I would consider trying them. But over the years, I have learned to pay attention to the chemical aspects of skincare products. Now the first thing I look at when choosing skincare products is the ingredient list. I know what is good for my skin and what I should avoid.

In this case, the packaging is important in terms of preserving the antioxidants in, say, a moisturizer. A container with a pump dispenser is far better than a jar with a lid. (So of course we are not talking about aesthetics here.)

The thing with quite a few Japanese toners and moisturizers is that they tend to have alcohol to create that fresh feel after each use. But my sensitive skin can’t really tolerate that. (I don’t think alcohol should be in any skincare product anyway. It is potentially drying and irritating.) I do love some of the Shu Uemura products because they are alcohol-free and are so gentle. But currently most of my skincare products are from western brands. For example, my moisturizers are from Estee Lauder and Lancome, and recently I bought one from Nivea. If you happen to wonder what I use on a daily basis, read my post here.

I think many of us, especially the younger generation, are getting quite knowledgeable about what does and doesn’t work, but there are still some people who buy whatever the sales assistants say is good. I do try to encourage friends around me to learn more about ingredients in skincare products. After all, they go on our faces every single day…we might as well learn about them. I think a good place to start would be Paula Begoun’s website, as I am sure many of you know. Do some research and it will benefit you immensely!

Overall, Japanese makeup has the edge. Skincare-wise, I simply use what works for me. At the moment, there are more western products in my skincare routine, while several years ago, I used more Japanese products. So I wouldn’t say I have a clear preference. It depends on what suits my skin and what is more available at a given time and place.

So, what’s your take on this?

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Lunasol Spring 2007 Collection

by PJ on Wednesday, January 3, 2007

in -Kanebo, -Lunasol, 2007 Spring, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup


(pictured: my Lunasol stash)


I am loving the look of Lunasol’s new collection! It is going toward a very soft look. All the colors look so gentle and wearable. It is about subtle and barely-there makeup.

My top pick is the lip palette, or Skin-Modeling Lips as it is properly called. This limited edition palette has four parts:

creamy-matte color (lip base)
natural color (lip color)
sheer gloss
jewel gloss

I’d like to have the one in EX04. I am a fan of blue-tone (but nearly totally sheer, of course) lipglosses. They make lips look really dewy and create a very natural and watery gleam.

This kit reminds me of another one by Ayura. It features a lip base, a lip liner, a highlight liner (for the two ridges of the upper lip, for extra perkiness), and a lip gloss. It is more of a lip-shaping kit that works in combination with your own lipsticks. I have it in 01 and I really like it.

The eye palettes also feature some soft colors. They are not as striking as what Lunasol had for last autumn (which has proven to be so successful that they top the favorite eye palette lists of Biteki and Frau magazines in Japan as voted by the readers), but they are great basics that look airy, breezy and beautiful. They also remind me of Jill Stuart’s latest eye palettes For example, Lunasol’s 04 looks very similar to Jill Stuart’s 02 Crystal Jade, and they both have the ubiquitous beige-tone palettes. I think, in this case, I’ll stick with Jill Stuart’s 04 Amethyst.

Both the four-color face powder palettes (Tone-Up Powder) look similar to Dior Detective from last autumn. It would be interesting to see how different Lunasol’s take on this will be.

The lip and nail colors will be great for the nude-color look.

As you can see, most of these products do remind me of some others. (Of course it is not unusual. New products are usually existing ones with a twist anyway.) But the texture and the pigmentation will vary (and the packaging, of course!) and I look forward to trying them out.

Apart from those above, you can also see Lunasol’s new foundation items here.

The color makeup items are out on January 19th, and the foundation items are out on February 23rd.

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