skincare

Beauty Phenomenon: Seasonal Sales on Cosmetics in the UK

by PJ on Thursday, January 17, 2008

in makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(sales ad from Selfridges & Co.)

(image from www.selfridges.com)

I was surprised when I went to my first seasonal sale in London years ago (at the start of the winter sale on December 27th). In the most high-end department stores, a lot of limited-edition beauty items from a couple of seasons ago had a mark-down between 30 to 50 percent. I didn’t expect to see them, but then they were back and stacked up at the edge of the counter.

I soon realized that, during seasonal sales in the UK, cosmetics items are reduced just like clothes are.

There are mostly 4 types of beauty products that are marked down in UK seasonal sales:

1. Seasonal gift sets, especially fragrance sets. (Christmas fragrance sets usually have a 30% mark-down right after Christmas. Many people stock up their favorite fragrances at this time of year.)

2. Limited-edition makeup items. Dior, YSL and Guerlain do this the most, among many other (mostly French) brands.

3. Discontinued and soon-to-be discontinued products. If I see a couple of products from a brand’s current lineup being reduced massively (sometimes up to 50%), I know they are going to be discontinued very soon. (Or, if I know something is going to be discontinued or replaced, I’d expect it to be on sale.)

4. Surplus stock of makeup shades that are less popular.

So here are just some of the things I saw this time:

— Guerlain’s Pucci collection (limited-edition, summer 2007), 50% off
— Guerlain’s 4-color eyeshadow palettes, 50% off (the new range has replaced these).
— YSL Palette Esprit Couture (limited-edition, fall 2007), 30% off
— YSL limited-edition items for summer 2007 and holiday 2006, 50% off
— Dior Diorissime palettes (limited-edition, fall 2007), 30% off
— Various Dior eyeshadow palettes and lipsticks, 30% off
— Paul & Joe’s discontinued base makeup items (change of packaging and formulation in summer 2007) and the full nail color line (soon to be replaced by a new nail color range), 50% off.

For the first time, I saw fall limited-edition makeup items, such as Diorissime palettes, reduced right after Christmas in the same year. But, with spring collections out earlier and earlier, maybe it is not all that surprising.

I have always been in two minds about all the clearing out. Of course it is nice to buy things at reduced prices. I have bought some lovely Paul & Joe items during the sale for very affordable prices.

However, even though high-end brands have a certain image and cache that they try hard to maintain, some of them still haphazardly stack up discounted palettes at the counter. Lip glosses are bundled up in rubber bands and put in plastic boxes. I can’t help but feel that this is rather unsightly and that the only thing they aim for during the sale is to get some stock space back. It doesn’t really reflect elegance and sophistication.

(True to its Japanese roots, Paul & Joe’s attention to detail during the sale stands out. In Fenwick on Bond Street, Paul & Joe’s reduced items are usually lined up neatly on a small and simple round table next to the counter. No plastic boxes or rubber bands…)

As I understand, there are clear-outs like this in the US for brands that are going to be discontinued. But it appears to me that seasonal limited-edition makeup items from high-end brands are not usually marked down regularly like they are here in the UK.

In some other countries (as well as in the US), I am aware that there are similar seasonal beauty clear-outs, but they are done in companies’ warehouses or headquarters. These events can be slightly more exclusive in terms of how they publicize the event information.

Are cosmetics items reduced regularly like this in your country? Let us know!

Voice more of your opinion on:

Can I return this, please?
(Can you?)

You Mean It’s Not Real?
(Are there problems with mascara ads?)

Japanese vs. Western
(Which side are you on?)

{ 14 comments }

My Moisturizer Favorite: Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

by PJ on Tuesday, January 1, 2008

in -Olay, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

(Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream)

Happy new year everyone! I wish all of you a healthy and happy 2008!

Today I am talking about my current nighttime moisturizer. In my post on my daily skincare routine, I mentioned Lancôme’s Hydra Zen was my chosen moisturizer for nighttime. But, about six months ago, Hydra Zen changed its formulation for the fourth time. Unlike the last three times, when there were only minor changes, the 4th-generation Hydra Zen’s ingredient list looks very different. It is still a suitable moisturizer for me (I used a couple of samples), but it was apparent to me that my skin didn’t like it as much.

I decided to look for a replacement. Usually, finding a replacement skincare product can be painful and can involve wasted money. (Opened and used cosmetics products are not returnable and refundable in the UK.) But, since, at that time, I had just started to like Olay Complete Care Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15, I thought I’d tried another moisturizer from Olay.

The one I got is Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream. It sounds like it is really dense and possibly greasy. But, when I tried the in-store tester, it seemed clear that it was not. It seemed light but still emollient, and it appeared to be suitable for my oily-dry skin. With Olay being a relatively affordable brand, I thought I’d try it out.

I really liked it the first time I used it. Even though it has a cream consistency, it is surprisingly lightweight and has a good slip. It is moisturizing and absorbs well, but it doesn’t feel heavy or look greasy at all. For me, it is a competent moisturizer for all seasons. Obviously, this is the first winter when I am using it. All I need is just to use a bit more of it than I do in warmer months, and I don’t need to layer on any other product.

One thing worth mentioning is that one of the major ingredients in this moisturizer is niacinamide. Paula Begoun describes ingredients like niacinamide and retinol as “cell-communicating ingredients“, which are able to work effectively at the cellular level to help improve the conditions and appearance of skin. (Read more about niacinamide and cell-communicating ingredients on Paula Begoun’s website.)

It contains benzyl alcohol, which can be a skin irritant. But it is not among the major ingredients and I have not had negative reactions to the product.

Overall this is a well-formulated moisturizer that happens to have the texture and the degree of emolliency that really suit me. I am quite positive that, as long as it remains available in the UK, I will continue to use it.

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all of them in 2008!)

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Week
(my week-long series on facts and thoughts on anti-aging skincare)

{ 12 comments }

DHC UK Website Launched!

by PJ on Wednesday, December 12, 2007

in -DHC, all about Japanese cosmetics, all about Japanese cosmetics (overseas availability information), skincare

(image from www.dhcuk.co.uk)

One of my readers, Humming, left a comment on my blog a couple of days ago and told me that the DHC UK website had been launched. (Thank you, Humming!)

DHC now joins RMK, Paul & Joe, SUQQU, Shiseido International, and Kanebo International as Japanese brands available in the UK.

DHC is a major cosmetics brand in Japan, where, as far as I understand, still only runs mail/phone/on-line ordering and does not have a physical shop.

But, as we all know, word of mouth has its place in retailing, and when people say something is good, it gets our attention.

(Updated in July 2011: DHC has physical shops throughout Japan.)

DHC’s cult product is Deep Cleansing Oil. Not only is it DHC’s cult product, it is one of the cult skincare products in Japan. It would be slightly bizarre not to see it on a readers’ favorite skincare product list in any Japanese cosmetics magazine. (In the readers’ poll results in Biteki‘s February 2007 issue, it was placed second in the favorite makeup cleanser category, one place above Shu Uemura’s cleansing oil.)

It works just like Shu Uemura’s cleansing oil and removes all makeup, including waterproof makeup, in one go. (There is a good review of it on Beauty Anonymous if you are interested!)

I tried the Deep Cleansing Oil many years ago, but I personally didn’t like it. It did cleanse very effectively, but I was fairly certain that it gave me breakouts. (I have also tried Shu Uemura’s various cleaning oil formulas, but I usually find that they don’t emulsify well enough. For years, I have remained loyal to RMK’s Cleansing Oil and Boots Botanics Cleansing Oil.)

But, since that was many years ago and I live in a different climate now, I might consider giving it another go. Also, many DHC toners are alcohol-free and have simple formulations that have the potential to suit my sensitive skin. They will be the products I will pay more attention to.

So far, only the basic skincare items are sold on the DHC UK site. I hope the stock will be expanded later on. In the meantime, if you would like to see the vast array of DHC skincare and makeup products, do head over to the DHC US website. (But…do ignore the fact that the prices are, yet again, lower in the US…)

My Daily Skincare Routine
(featuring RMK Cleansing Oil)

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(My love for Japanese cosmetics will never end…)

{ 10 comments }

Finally! FDA Regulates UVA Labeling

by PJ on Wednesday, December 12, 2007

in skincare

(image from U.S. Food and Drug Association)

I am sure many of you who are skincare-savvy know the importance of UVA protection. UVA rays cause premature aging of the skin, and sunscreen products as well as daytime moisturizers that have adequate anti-UVA ingredients can help prevent it.

I am surprised that FDA is only doing this now. Most Japanese brands have been specifying the strength of UVA protection of sunscreen products for quite some time, using the scale from PA+ to PA++++. Also, several European brands like Boots No. 7 and Garnier have been labeling the level of their sunscreen products for a number of years.

But better late than never. After all, adequate labeling on all sun-protection products is by far the best way to make people more aware of the importance and necessity of using adequate sun protection. I hope the new labeling system will be put into practice as soon as possible.

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all 10 of them.)

The Only Words You Need to Know About Anti-Aging
(Make sure you know them before your next trip to the drugstore.)

New Sunscreen Regulations for UVA Protection
(from cosmeticsdesign.com)

FDA Aims to Upgrade Sunscreen Labeling
(from U.S. Food and Drug Assiciation)

{ 2 comments }

Bring It Back! Boots Botanics Cleansing Oil

by PJ on Thursday, November 22, 2007

in _Bring It Back, -Boots, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, stash focus

(Boots Botanics Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser;
with a separate pump dispenser)

This time, in my “Bring It Back!” Series, I am not going to talk about a whole line of cosmetics. Instead, I am focusing on a very good and affordable makeup remover that has been discontinued.

Boots has various lines of skincare and makeup ranges. While one of my favorite Boots lines is No. 7, it doesn’t have a cleanser that I really like. On the other hand, the slightly cheaper Botanics line used to have the Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser (seen above), which is a great overall cleanser for me.

It works just like other cleansing oils like Shu Uemura’s, as it takes off all the makeup, including water-proof items, at one go. I tend to like cleansing oils because they involve much less tugging and massaging than most cleansing milks, and they are much more gentle on my sensitive skin.

What was also fantastic about this cleansing oil is that it used to only cost 2 GBP (about 4 USD). Even though I slightly prefer RMK’s cleansing oil, this one only cost about one-tenth of its price at the time and I would gladly keep using this if this were still available.

I stocked up quite a few when it was being phased out, and now I am on my last bottle. My only minor complaint is that if it gets into the eyes, it can sometimes make them feel a little dry afterwards. (This is why I slightly prefer RMK’s.) But it is not something that bothers me very much.

The Boots Botanics line seems to still be doing well and there have been new items added to the lineup every now and then. I do hope Boots will consider adding a cleansing oil back to Botanics or any other skincare line…

Another Boots product that I love using:
Boots No. 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator
(Find out how it actually works.)

Some “Bring It Back!” highlights:

Shiseido’s Inoui ID

Cynthia Rowley

Calvin Klein (See the new counter in Hong Kong!)

{ 6 comments }

Product Review: Prescriptives primer, concealer and cleanser

by PJ on Friday, November 16, 2007

in -Prescriptives, makeup, makeup - base makeup, makeup - base makeup - primer/concealer, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Prescriptives Better Off Fast-Acting Makeup Remover,
Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer,
and Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)

Prescriptives is generally renowned for base makeup products. I am going to review two of them, plus a water-proof makeup remover. Let’s dive straight in.

Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer:

It is a primer that is supposed to even out redness. I understand what the product is trying do, as it imparts some yellow and green shimmer which attempts to cancel out redness. But overall, the shimmer sits on top of the redness (which is still visible) instead of neutralizing it.

Basically it is a primer that adds quite a lot of luminosity to the face (which can be a little too shiny for some people), and it is also able to alter the finish of your foundation. (My matte powder foundation takes on a more luminous finish.)

However, the overall texture is slightly too greasy and the finish is too shiny for my personal liking (apart from the fact that it doesn’t neutralize my redness).

Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15:
(with titanium dioxide to protect against UVA rays)

As we know, there are many products in the same category as YSL’s Touche Éclat, and this is one of them. Some of these products rely more on light-reflective particles while some use more opaque pigments. I think Prescriptives’ version is more toward the opaque-pigment end of the spectrum. Apart from that, the consistency is very creamy and it dries quite quickly, so swift blending is essential. It can be used as a general cream concealer for the face.

For covering imperfections around the eye area, I have noticed that, to reach the desired effect, it is better to put on the needed amount all at once and keep blending. Don’t layer and layer, as it will cake easily.

(Prescriptives Sight Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

The brush is wider than that of most other similar products, so it is not particularly designed for precision concealing. It is more for sweeping across slightly larger areas. Overall, as long as the blending is done speedily, the coverage is relatively satisfactory.

Better Off Fast-Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover:

This is a dual-phase makeup remover for eye and lip makeup. I always go for a dual-phase formula since it is able to dissolve makeup quickly and only very little rubbing and tugging is required for effective removal.

This one doesn’t disappoint me. It cleanses effectively and doesn’t irritate my eyes. It doesn’t leave any greasy residue, but I do suspect that it could possibly be a bit drying for some people. (I don’t have a particular preference regarding this, and I don’t mind some slightly oily residue since I always wash my whole face thoroughly after taking off the eye and lip makeup.)

Overall this is something worth considering, but do bear in mind that there are less expensive options that can preform equally well.

Prescriptives Foundation Review: Flawless Skin & AnyWear
(Find out which one I prefer.)

My Foundation Routine
(as requested by one of you)

My Skincare Routine
(featuring my favorite makeup remover)

{ 7 comments }

A Splash of Color — Girlie Pink

by PJ on Sunday, October 14, 2007

in _I Love Colors, -Ayura, -Kao, -Lavshuca, -Paul & Joe, -Sofina, all about Japanese cosmetics, bodycare, makeup, makeup - base makeup, skincare, stash focus

October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and I thought it would be fitting to do another A Splash of Color post on another of my favorite colors, pink.

I’d also like to invite you to have a look at the website of Breast Cancer Care, UK’s leading organization which provides information, practical assistance, and emotional support for anyone affected by breast cancer. You can read more about exactly what Breast Cancer Care does.

————————–

Exfoliator Favorite! Boots No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator

by PJ on Thursday, September 6, 2007

in -Boots, skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator)
(photo from www.boots.com)

My sensitive skin can’t really tolerate regular exfoliating, but from time to time I do feel like a bit of scrubbing.

Among the samples I have used, I quite liked Estée Lauder’s Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher and Chanel’s Gommage Microperl é Élat. But I was still searching for something even milder.

I felt I hit the jackpot when I tried Boots’ No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator.

No grains? So how does it exfoliate? Enzyme? No. AHA? No.

The main exfoliating agent is mica. Yes, it is the kind of mineral powder that gives your eyeshadows and foundations a bit of shimmer. (I can see the shimmer when I have a bit of the product on the back of my hand.) It is this fine powder that is doing the job.

So, technically, it is not “No Grains”, since mica is still a kind of physical particle. But it is so fine that I don’t feel that my face is being scrubbed. (It goes on simply like a liquid-y lotion.)

For me, it does a sublime job! My face feels and looks smoother after each use, and it is so gentle that it doesn’t give my face any redness, dryness, or discomfort.

I am in my second tube now and this product will continue to be a proud resident in my bathroom for quite some time to come!

Some other skincare posts:

My Daily Skincare Routine
(Do we share favorites?)

Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve
(A great lip balm that looks so adorable…)

{ 2 comments }

Product Review: Amatokin

by PJ on Friday, August 31, 2007

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Amatokin Emulsion for the Face)
(image from Amatokin)

Amatokin has managed to create global hype. It claims to “activate the potential of our inherent, adult stem-cell reservoirs in skin to help rejuvenate the skin”. When it was launched in the UK earlier this year (only in one department store, Harvey Nichols London), it was sold out and there used to be a waiting list. When I was offered to review this product, I was intrigued.

The supposed key ingredient in Amatokin is polypeptide 153, which is a synthetic peptide and is the only ingredient in this product that has any remote potential to work at a cellular level. (Most of the other ingredients are emollients, PH balancers, and preservatives. The product is fragrance-free.)

The peptide entry on Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Dictionary is a must-read. It gives a definition of what peptides are as well as their potential and limitation in skincare products. (In summary, peptide is a chain of amino acids, which constitute proteins. The problem with peptides in skincare products is that they are hydrophilic (water-loving) and are unstable.)

Under cell-communicating ingredients, peptides are listed as “possible” cell-communicating ingredients (reflected by the extremely early stage of research in this area). Theoretically, a synthetic peptide with a fatty acid attached might help the peptide perform at the right level in the skin. But much more research is needed on this.

Simply as a moisturizer, Amatokin is a fair one. It doesn’t irritate my skin but I would like something more moisturizing. It leaves my skin smooth, thanks to the abundant silica. It is possible that this product can temporarily reduce the appearance of mild wrinkles. But so can foundation primers.

Overall, Amatokin is a satisfactory, but not outstanding, moisturizer that has an ingredient that, with some further improvement of the internal structure, might have potential to be a cell-communicating ingredient.

Other ingredients, like niacinamide (a vitamin B3 comlex) and retinol (vitamin A) (Amatokin has neither), among others, have been shown to perform more effectively at a cellular level (with the right amount and in the right formulation). So, I can’t see the reason for paying 173 USD in the US (and 137 pounds (about 274 USD) in the UK) for this. Several products from Olay have niacinamide while many more (from other brands) include retinol. Chances are that these products will have more potential in improving the condition of your skin.

The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend
(…to help yourself choose the best moisturizer)

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15
(This budget-friendly goodie has niacinamide.)

(I would like to thank one of my very best friends, Grace, who is currently conducting research in genetic science, for making sure that I have sufficient basic background information and knowledge for this review.)

{ 0 comments }

Would you like some samples? (Part One: The Appetizer)

by PJ on Wednesday, August 29, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Bon appétit!)

(The main course is served tomorrow…)

I guess it is fair to say that we all love freebies. Getting cosmetics samples is a great way to test-drive potential candidates and discover new favorites.

Like return policies (and thank you for all your comments and contributions), I have also observed that the level of generosity when it comes to samples seems to differ from country to country.

In my own experience, sales assistants in Japan seem to be particularly generous.

I had an unforgettable experience when I was in Tokyo. I bought two small travel-size (30ml) Shiseido toners in a drugstore. I didn’t expect to get any sample and I felt embarrassed to ask, since the toners were inexpensive and since the staff so kindly offered to keep and watch over my heavy belongings behind the counter while I was browsing.

But when I showed interest in another Shiseido skincare line (after I paid for my toners), one assistant not only gave me samples of virtually the whole line of about 15 products but also taped all of them, one by one, next to where they appeared on the product brochure (so I wouldn’t mess up the routine due to my lack of competence in Japanese).

Well, in a way, she didn’t achieve her purpose (of having me try more of their products) at all, because the brochure and samples have been kept untouched as a souvenir. (I wish I had a photo to show you! It is quite a sight.) But this level of patience and service has impressed me tremendously.

What about the US? I have never lived in the US but I have an impression that the sales assistants are also generous, even for non-purchasing customers, as long as they show enough interest. (This is where I’d love your stories and thoughts. Let me know!)

In the UK, it can be difficult to get samples without any purchase. Generally, even when I do buy things, it depends on whether the assistant knows me from previous purchases or it depends on how much I buy.

But I did once experience moments of brilliance in a Boots store in London. After using my Boots advantage card loyalty points on a Chanel blusher (so technically I didn’t pay for it), I was looking at some Chanel skincare products. It just so happened that whatever product I was pointing at and said I was interested in trying, the assistant managed to find a sample for me.

My friend who was with me then said it looked as if the assistant had been hypnotized by me… (Ummm…is this a skill that I actually have?)

But, most of the time, I need to try way harder than this…

I am interested to know about the sample-giving “culture” where you are. Do drop a comment, and please let me know which country (or city) you are in!

Tomorrow (the main course): I talk about how I usually ask for samples at the counters. I don’t want to keep my experience to myself anymore, so do stay tuned!

Other mini discussion going on:
Can I Return This, Please?

{ 18 comments }

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