skincare

Finally! FDA Regulates UVA Labeling

by PJ on Wednesday, December 12, 2007

in skincare


(image from U.S. Food and Drug Association)


I am sure many of you who are skincare-savvy know the importance of UVA protection. UVA rays cause premature aging of the skin, and sunscreen products as well as daytime moisturizers that have adequate anti-UVA ingredients can help prevent it.

I am surprised that FDA is only doing this now. Most Japanese brands have been specifying the strength of UVA protection of sunscreen products for quite some time, using the scale from PA+ to PA++++. Also, several European brands like Boots No. 7 and Garnier have been labeling the level of their sunscreen products for a number of years.

But better late than never. After all, adequate labeling on all sun-protection products is by far the best way to make people more aware of the importance and necessity of using adequate sun protection. I hope the new labeling system will be put into practice as soon as possible.

Related Posts:

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all 10 of them.)

The Only Words You Need to Know About Anti-Aging
(Make sure you know them before your next trip to the drugstore.)

New Sunscreen Regulations for UVA Protection

(from cosmeticsdesign.com)

FDA Aims to Upgrade Sunscreen Labeling
(from U.S. Food and Drug Assiciation)

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(Boots Botanics Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser;
with a separate pump dispenser)


This time, in my “Bring It Back!” Series, I am not going to talk about a whole line of cosmetics. Instead, I am focusing on a very good and affordable makeup remover that has been discontinued.

Boots has various lines of skincare and makeup ranges. While one of my favorite Boots lines is No. 7, it doesn’t have a cleanser that I really like. On the other hand, the slightly cheaper Botanics line used to have the Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser (seen above), which is a great overall cleanser for me.

It works just like other cleansing oils like Shu Uemura’s, as it takes off all the makeup, including water-proof items, at one go. I tend to like cleansing oils because they involve much less tugging and massaging than most cleansing milks, and they are much more gentle on my sensitive skin.

What was also fantastic about this cleansing oil is that it used to only cost 2 GBP (about 4 USD). Even though I slightly prefer RMK’s cleansing oil, this one only cost about one-tenth of its price at the time and I would gladly keep using this if this were still available.

I stocked up quite a few when it was being phased out, and now I am on my last bottle. My only minor complaint is that if it gets into the eyes, it can sometimes make them feel a little dry afterwards. (This is why I slightly prefer RMK’s.) But it is not something that bothers me very much.

The Boots Botanics line seems to still be doing well and there have been new items added to the lineup every now and then. I do hope Boots will consider adding a cleansing oil back to Botanics or any other skincare line…

Related post:

Another Boots product that I love using:
Boots No. 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator
(Find out how it actually works.)

Some “Bring It Back!” highlights:

Shiseido’s Inoui ID

Cynthia Rowley

Calvin Klein (See the new counter in Hong Kong!)

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(Prescriptives Better Off Fast-Acting Makeup Remover,
Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer,
and Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)


Prescriptives is generally renowned for base makeup products. I am going to review two of them, plus a water-proof makeup remover. Let’s dive straight in.

Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer:

It is a primer that is supposed to even out redness. I understand what the product is trying do, as it imparts some yellow and green shimmer which attempts to cancel out redness. But overall, the shimmer sits on top of the redness (which is still visible) instead of neutralizing it.

Basically it is a primer that adds quite a lot of luminosity to the face (which can be a little too shiny for some people), and it is also able to alter the finish of your foundation. (My matte powder foundation takes on a more luminous finish.)

However, the overall texture is slightly too greasy and the finish is too shiny for my personal liking (apart from the fact that it doesn’t neutralize my redness).

Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15:
(with titanium dioxide to protect against UVA rays)

As we know, there are many products in the same category as YSL’s Touche Éclat, and this is one of them. Some of these products rely more on light-reflective particles while some use more opaque pigments. I think Prescriptives’ version is more toward the opaque-pigment end of the spectrum. Apart from that, the consistency is very creamy and it dries quite quickly, so swift blending is essential. It can be used as a general cream concealer for the face.

For covering imperfections around the eye area, I have noticed that, to reach the desired effect, it is better to put on the needed amount all at once and keep blending. Don’t layer and layer, as it will cake easily.

(Prescriptives Sight Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

The brush is wider than that of most other similar products, so it is not particularly designed for precision concealing. It is more for sweeping across slightly larger areas. Overall, as long as the blending is done speedily, the coverage is relatively satisfactory.

Better Off Fast-Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover:

This is a dual-phase makeup remover for eye and lip makeup. I always go for a dual-phase formula since it is able to dissolve makeup quickly and only very little rubbing and tugging is required for effective removal.

This one doesn’t disappoint me. It cleanses effectively and doesn’t irritate my eyes. It doesn’t leave any greasy residue, but I do suspect that it could possibly be a bit drying for some people. (I don’t have a particular preference regarding this, and I don’t mind some slightly oily residue since I always wash my whole face thoroughly after taking off the eye and lip makeup.)

Overall this is something worth considering, but do bear in mind that there are less expensive options that can preform equally well.

Related Posts:

Prescriptives Foundation Review: Flawless Skin & AnyWear
(Find out which one I prefer.)

My Foundation Routine
(as requested by one of you)

My Skincare Routine
(featuring my favorite makeup remover)

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October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and I thought it would be fitting to do another A Splash of Color post on another of my favorite colors, pink.

I’d also like to invite you to have a look at the website of Breast Cancer Care, UK’s leading organization which provides information, practical assistance, and emotional support for anyone affected by breast cancer. You can read more about exactly what Breast Cancer Care does.

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Featured Items:

Makeup

Lavshuca Cheek Color in PK-1
Lavshuca Eye Color Select in PK-1
AYURA Aura Veil α in PK-11 Sweek Pink
AYURA lip gloss PK60
Paul and Joe lip gloss 04
Sofina Raycious Glamour Skin Powder (limited-edition pink case)
Clinique Glosswear for Lips in Cosmic Pink
Dior Diorissime Palette in 002 Seduction Drama
Dior Princess Ring in 001
Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Fragrance

Lancôme Miracle

Skincare

Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve

Bodycare

Boss Femme shower gel

Enjoy Other Splashes of Colors!

New-Leaf Green

Aqua Blue

Citrus Orange

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(No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator)
(photo from www.boots.com)

My sensitive skin can’t really tolerate regular exfoliating, but from time to time I do feel like a bit of scrubbing.

Among the samples I have used, I quite liked Estée Lauder’s Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher and Chanel’s Gommage Microperlé Élat. But I was still searching for something even milder.

I felt I hit the jackpot when I tried Boots’ No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator.

No grains? So how does it exfoliate? Enzyme? No. AHA? No.

The main exfoliating agent is mica. Yes, it is the kind of mineral powder that gives your eyeshadows and foundations a bit of shimmer. (I can see the shimmer when I have a bit of the product on the back of my hand.) It is this fine powder that is doing the job.

So, technically, it is not “No Grains”, since mica is still a kind of physical particle. But it is so fine that I don’t feel that my face is being scrubbed. (It goes on simply like a liquid-y lotion.)

For me, it does a sublime job! My face feels and looks smoother after each use, and it is so gentle that it doesn’t give my face any redness, dryness, or discomfort.

I am in my second tube now and this product will continue to be a proud resident in my bathroom for quite some time to come!

Some other skincare posts:

My Daily Skincare Routine
(Do we share favorites?)

Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve
(A great lip balm that looks so adorable…)

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(Amatokin Emulsion for the Face)
(image from Amatokin)

Amatokin has managed to create global hype. It claims to “activate the potential of our inherent, adult stem-cell reservoirs in skin to help rejuvenate the skin”. When it was launched in the UK earlier this year (only in one department store, Harvey Nichols London), it was sold out and there used to be a waiting list. When I was offered to review this product, I was intrigued.

The supposed key ingredient in Amatokin is polypeptide 153, which is a synthetic peptide and is the only ingredient in this product that has any remote potential to work at a cellular level. (Most of the other ingredients are emollients, PH balancers, and preservatives. The product is fragrance-free.)

The peptide entry on Paula Begoun’s Ingredient Dictionary is a must-read. It gives a definition of what peptides are as well as their potential and limitation in skincare products. (In summary, peptide is a chain of amino acids, which constitute proteins. The problem with peptides in skincare products is that they are hydrophilic (water-loving) and are unstable.)

Under cell-communicating ingredients, peptides are listed as “possible” cell-communicating ingredients (reflected by the extremely early stage of research in this area). Theoretically, a synthetic peptide with a fatty acid attached might help the peptide perform at the right level in the skin. But much more research is needed on this.

Simply as a moisturizer, Amatokin is a fair one. It doesn’t irritate my skin but I would like something more moisturizing. It leaves my skin smooth, thanks to the abundant silica. It is possible that this product can temporarily reduce the appearance of mild wrinkles. But so can foundation primers.

Overall, Amatokin is a satisfactory, but not outstanding, moisturizer that has an ingredient that, with some further improvement of the internal structure, might have potential to be a cell-communicating ingredient.

Other ingredients, like niacinamide (a vitamin B3 comlex) and retinol (vitamin A) (Amatokin has neither), among others, have been shown to perform more effectively at a cellular level (with the right amount and in the right formulation). So, I can’t see the reason for paying 173 USD in the US (and 137 pounds (about 274 USD) in the UK) for this. Several products from Olay have niacinamide while many more (from other brands) include retinol. Chances are that these products will have more potential in improving the condition of your skin.

Related posts:

The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend
(…to help yourself choose the best moisturizer)

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15
(This budget-friendly goodie has niacinamide.)

(I would like to thank one of my very best friends, Grace, who is currently conducting research in genetic science, for making sure that I have sufficient basic background information and knowledge for this review.)

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(Bon appétit!)


(The main course is served tomorrow…)

I guess it is fair to say that we all love freebies. Getting cosmetics samples is a great way to test-drive potential candidates and discover new favorites.

Like return policies (and thank you for all your comments and contributions), I have also observed that the level of generosity when it comes to samples seems to differ from country to country.

In my own experience, sales assistants in Japan seem to be particularly generous.

I had an unforgettable experience when I was in Tokyo. I bought two small travel-size (30ml) Shiseido toners in a drugstore. I didn’t expect to get any sample and I felt embarrassed to ask, since the toners were inexpensive and since the staff so kindly offered to keep and watch over my heavy belongings behind the counter while I was browsing.

But when I showed interest in another Shiseido skincare line (after I paid for my toners), one assistant not only gave me samples of virtually the whole line of about 15 products but also taped all of them, one by one, next to where they appeared on the product brochure (so I wouldn’t mess up the routine due to my lack of competence in Japanese).

Well, in a way, she didn’t achieve her purpose (of having me try more of their products) at all, because the brochure and samples have been kept untouched as a souvenir. (I wish I had a photo to show you! It is quite a sight.) But this level of patience and service has impressed me tremendously.

What about the US? I have never lived in the US but I have an impression that the sales assistants are also generous, even for non-purchasing customers, as long as they show enough interest. (This is where I’d love your stories and thoughts. Let me know!)

In the UK, it can be difficult to get samples without any purchase. Generally, even when I do buy things, it depends on whether the assistant knows me from previous purchases or it depends on how much I buy.

But I did once experience moments of brilliance in a Boots store in London. After using my Boots advantage card loyalty points on a Chanel blusher (so technically I didn’t pay for it), I was looking at some Chanel skincare products. It just so happened that whatever product I was pointing at and said I was interested in trying, the assistant managed to find a sample for me.

My friend who was with me then said it looked as if the assistant had been hypnotized by me… (Ummm…is this a skill that I actually have?)

But, most of the time, I need to try way harder than this…

I am interested to know about the sample-giving “culture” where you are. Do drop a comment, and please let me know which country (or city) you are in!

Tomorrow (the main course): I talk about how I usually ask for samples at the counters. I don’t want to keep my experience to myself anymore, so do stay tuned!

Other mini discussion going on:
Can I Return This, Please?

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(Zensation Healing and Soothing Mask)
(photo from: Zensation Beaut
é)


I don’t use facial masks regularly, but I always keep a moisturizing mask in the bathroom whenever I need an SOS treatment. (My current choice is Avène’s Soothing Moisture Mask.)

Zensation‘s Healing and Soothing Mask, by the sound of the name, seems to be something perfect for sensitive skin. But, as the packaging states, it is a deep cleansing mask designed for oily and blemish-prone skin.

The ingredients include tea tree oil, witch hazel distillate, myrrh extract, and neem extract, which are common ingredients in products for blemished skin due to the anti-bacterial properties. But they can be skin irritants as well.

I have Type 4 (oily-dry) skin, not prone to blemishes. I tried this mask twice (with a week apart) and it left my skin slightly dry and tight both times. I can see this might work for teenagers with oily and blemished skin who live in hot and humid climate. (It may heal blemishes and soothe oil secretion, so it is not “healing and soothing” in the usual sense.) But for all others, it may not heal or soothe the skin in any way…

(Zensation Brightening Mask)
(photo from: Zensation Beaut
é)

Zensation’s Brightening Mask works better for me, as a moisturizing mask. It includes sweet almond oil, which is a good natural moisturizing ingredient. The product’s claim of “preventing and reducing unwanted and excessive pigmentation” comes from mulberry extract, which may have the merit in preventing melanin production.

Regardless of whether it can achieve any visible result of reducing skin pigmentation, I find it to be a fairly good moisturizing mask which suits my sensitive skin. It will be a nice addition to my bathroom line-up, as summer has come to an (early) end in the UK…

More skincare posts:

Olay Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15

Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15

(my two favorite daytime moisturizers)

A New Way to Look at Skin Types

(which might be different from what beauty salespeople try to tell you…)

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(My all-time favorite fragrance:
Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert )



First, let me indulge myself and take you through the Bulgari world…


It is a brand that appeals to me on so, so many levels.

Its jewelry is bold and striking but classic and elegant. The contrasts are sublimely complimentary. I can’t imagine anything more beautiful than the Sapphire Flower Collection. (Do have a look through the link above and through Jewels -> Collections -> Sapphire Flower.)

(the cover of the Bulgari jewelry catalog 2005/2006,
featuring a necklace from the Sapphire Flower Collection)

(the front cover/in-fold and back cover of the catalog)

Bulgari’s hotels in Milan and Bali (not that I have been there) look…familiar. I have seen them in my dreams, I think. It is as if the architects and interior designers knew me. Angular and masculine, but somehow feminine and cozy. Again, I love contrasts that gel together.

The staff in Bulgari boutiques are so polite, friendly, and professional, even though all I have done is marvel at the shining things I can’t afford and, once or twice, picked up a fragrance. If I ever have the good fortune and privilege to afford something luxurious, I will not look anywhere else.

I am wearing Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert as I am writing this. It is Bulgari’s first attempt, back in 1992, to enter the world of fine fragrance, and it is still very popular today. With notes from green tea, lemon, orange, lily, rose, and coriander, it is fresh, uplifting, straightforward, and uniquely romantic. It is my perfect daytime scent.

(I love the design of the bottles as well.)

Also, I am wearing it because I am trying to remind myself of the wonderful sensation I got from their skincare line, HydraThé Vitalisant, in which all the items were infused with my favorite scent.

(the Bulgari skincare calalog)

(the Bulgari HydraThé Vitalisant skincare line-up,
from the catalog)

One of my favorite items is Neutralizing Cleansing Gel. Price-wise, it was as expensive as cleansers from Chanel and Dior, but this foamed so incredibly well with so little amount that no other cleanser has lasted longer.

(Bulgari HydraThé Vitalisant Neutralizing Cleansing Gel,
from the catalog)

As for makeup, I don’t think many people remember that Bulgari used to have foundations. (I think the whole skincare/foundation line was discontinued soon after the foundation was launched.) I happen to have samples of Total Performance Cream Foundation SPF 15 PA ++. They will always be part of my Permanent Collection.


(samples of Bulgari Total Performance Cream Foundation)

Unfortunately the line was discontinued several years ago. There are still websites that carry some of the products, but I am simply not interested because the stock must be very old.

Back in June, I planned to write about Bulgari Skincare for my Bring It Back! series. (Two more are planned for September and October.) Interestingly, a few days ago, I was surprised and delighted to find on Women’s Wear Daily that Bulgari will release a new skincare line!

After some brief googling, I found a post on Fashionese Daily (with a photo of part of the line) and another one on CCP Management Consultants Ltd. blog (with some relevant background information). In summary, the line will be launched in October and will only be available in Italy until next year, and there are no plans at the moment to expand the line into color cosmetics. (But I shall remain hopeful.)

I don’t think I will find my favorite scent in the upcoming skincare line, but I am still eagerly waiting for Bulgari to appeal to me on yet another level……

Related Posts:
My Fragrance Favorites
Sheer Stella 2007
Bring It Back: Calvin Klein Makeup, Cynthia Rowley, and Helena Rubinstein

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(Is the dilemma necessary?)

More and more of us savvy customers know that high price does not necessarily equal high quality. But why are some products getting more and more expensive?

From the marketing point of view, price range and targeted consumer group almost define each other. High-end products (which are getting “higher” all the time) will always have a specific arena to thrive.

But, from a personal point of view, a perfect skincare product for someone, regardless of age, gender, or skin-type, can simply be from any price range. As long as we have the adequate knowledge, the rest is mere preference.

I don’t necessarily see anything wrong with going for a relatively expensive moisturizer if it happens to be a well-formulated product that has a consistency, texture, and aroma that suit or appeal to someone. A good moisturizer will indeed hydrate the skin, improve its feel and texture, maintain its good condition, and delay the appearance of signs of aging.

However, I think it is wrong to assume, believe, or dream that a fancy and pricey face cream will permanently erase any wrinkle or lift any part of our faces. (That is what plastic surgery is for.) Many cosmetics companies know how dreams and promises are worth, and they are putting them on the price tags and touting them with provocative but ambiguous language.

I remain skeptical of the word “anti-aging” as a marketing term. An enduringly successful marketing term as it has proven to be, the word itself can be rather misleading. It creates a whole new genre of skincare products, but, unfortunately, some of them are shockingly redundant.

It is a blessing to able to have and afford choices, but let’s all know more about what we are paying for…

Catch up with previous posts in A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series:

5-1: Wisdom from Mom
5-2: Top of the Chart
5-3: The Only Words You Need to Know
5-4: The Best 10 Minutes You Could Ever Spend


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