skincare

Possible Sephora Re-Launch in the UK!

by PJ on Monday, January 28, 2008

in _Bring It Back, makeup, skincare

(I want it back!)
(image from www.sephora.com)


According to WWD, Sephora has been in talks with Marks & Spencer regarding opening shop-in-shops in the UK’s leading highstreet department store.

This is very exciting news, and it would certainly be great to see Sephora back in the UK!

If you also want to see Sephora back in the UK, you can still sign the petition started by Charlotte at Kiss and Makeup in August last year.

Updated on January 29th 2008:

Charlotte at Kiss and Makeup has posted additional information on the possible re-launch. Have a look!

Related Posts:

The “Bring Back Sephora” Campaign
(Umm…has it actually been working? Keep it going!)

A Touch of Blusher’s “Bring It Back” Series
(brands and products I want to see again…)

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(RMK Cleansing Oil N)
(image from www.rmkrmk.com/global/)

RMK Cleansing Oil N is the cleansing oil of my choice before and after I was using the cheaper Boots Botanics Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser, and this is one of my favorite makeup removing products.

To be specific, Cleansing Oil N, out a couple of years ago, is the new version of Cleansing Oil. But I don’t feel that there is any substantial difference between the two versions. Both are equally great.

Like most other cleansing oils, this one cleanses very effectively and melts all water-proof makeup. But three aspects of this cleansing oil stands out for me:

1. It emulsifies very well upon rinsing. There are several cleansing oils I have tried that don’t emulsify very well and leave a greasy film. Even after using a face wash, sometimes my face still feels somewhat greasy. This one leaves the skin very cleansed and fresh. Very occasionally I even forget to wash my face with a face wash immediately afterwards.

2. It is very gentle for my eyes. A couple of cleansing oils that I actually really like can leave my eyes dry if they get into the eyes while dissolving eye makeup. This one is very gentle for the eye area and never feels irritating.

3. With mainly olive, avocado, and grape seed oil, the texture is very light and it spreads wonderfully easily. I find that I don’t need as much per appplication, compared with other cleansing oils.

I am very glad that RMK became available in the UK several years ago, so there was no doubt which cleansing oil I was going to switch (back) to after the Boots Bonatics Oil Cleanser was discontinued.

(Note: Currently, UK is the only place outside Asia where RMK products are available.)

Updated on January 27, 2008:

In the comment section, Jami from Bionic Beauty asked about the ingredient list of this cleansing oil. So here is the full ingredient list of RMK’s Cleansing Oil N that I happen to have saved for future reference. (Please click on the photo for a much larger version.)

(the full ingredient list of RMK Cleansing Oil N,
on the back of the outer packaging)

Related Posts:

I also can’t live without:

Garnier Hand Cocoon

Dove Body Silk

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(sales ad from Selfridges & Co.)

(image from www.selfridges.com)

I was surprised when I went to my first seasonal sale in London years ago (at the start of the winter sale on December 27th). In the most high-end department stores, a lot of limited-edition beauty items from a couple of seasons ago had a mark-down between 30 to 50 percent. I didn’t expect to see them, but then they were back and stacked up at the edge of the counter.

I soon realized that, during seasonal sales in the UK, cosmetics items are reduced just like clothes are.

There are mostly 4 types of beauty products that are marked down in UK seasonal sales:

1. Seasonal gift sets, especially fragrance sets. (Christmas fragrance sets usually have a 30% mark-down right after Christmas. Many people stock up their favorite fragrances at this time of year.)

2. Limited-edition makeup items. Dior, YSL and Guerlain do this the most, among many other (mostly French) brands.

3. Discontinued and soon-to-be discontinued products. If I see a couple of products from a brand’s current lineup being reduced massively (sometimes up to 50%), I know they are going to be discontinued very soon. (Or, if I know something is going to be discontinued or replaced, I’d expect it to be on sale.)

4. Surplus stock of makeup shades that are less popular.

So here are just some of the things I saw this time:

— Guerlain’s Pucci collection (limited-edition, summer 2007), 50% off
— Guerlain’s 4-color eyeshadow palettes, 50% off (the new range has replaced these).
— YSL Palette Esprit Couture (limited-edition, fall 2007), 30% off
— YSL limited-edition items for summer 2007 and holiday 2006, 50% off
— Dior Diorissime palettes (limited-edition, fall 2007), 30% off
— Various Dior eyeshadow palettes and lipsticks, 30% off
— Paul & Joe’s discontinued base makeup items (change of packaging and formulation in summer 2007) and the full nail color line (soon to be replaced by a new nail color range), 50% off.

For the first time, I saw fall limited-edition makeup items, such as Diorissime palettes, reduced right after Christmas in the same year. But, with spring collections out earlier and earlier, maybe it is not all that surprising.

I have always been in two minds about all the clearing out. Of course it is nice to buy things at reduced prices. I have bought some lovely Paul & Joe items during the sale for very affordable prices.

However, even though high-end brands have a certain image and cache that they try hard to maintain, some of them still haphazardly stack up discounted palettes at the counter. Lip glosses are bundled up in rubber bands and put in plastic boxes. I can’t help but feel that this is rather unsightly and that the only thing they aim for during the sale is to get some stock space back. It doesn’t really reflect elegance and sophistication.

(True to its Japanese roots, Paul & Joe’s attention to detail during the sale stands out. In Fenwick on Bond Street, Paul & Joe’s reduced items are usually lined up neatly on a small and simple round table next to the counter. No plastic boxes or rubber bands…)

As I understand, there are clear-outs like this in the US for brands that are going to be discontinued. But it appears to me that seasonal limited-edition makeup items from high-end brands are not usually marked down regularly like they are here in the UK.

In some other countries (as well as in the US), I am aware that there are similar seasonal beauty clear-outs, but they are done in companies’ warehouses or headquarters. These events can be slightly more exclusive in terms of how they publicize the event information.

Are cosmetics items reduced regularly like this in your country? Let us know!

Voice more of your opinion on:

Can I return this, please?
(Can you?)

You Mean It’s Not Real?
(Are there problems with mascara ads?)

Japanese vs. Western
(Which side are you on?)

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(Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream)


Happy new year everyone! I wish all of you a healthy and happy 2008!

Today I am talking about my current nighttime moisturizer. In my post on my daily skincare routine, I mentioned Lancôme’s Hydra Zen was my chosen moisturizer for nighttime. But, about six months ago, Hydra Zen changed its formulation for the fourth time. Unlike the last three times, when there were only minor changes, the 4th-generation Hydra Zen’s ingredient list looks very different. It is still a suitable moisturizer for me (I used a couple of samples), but it was apparent to me that my skin didn’t like it as much.

I decided to look for a replacement. Usually, finding a replacement skincare product can be painful and can involve wasted money. (Opened and used cosmetics products are not returnable and refundable in the UK.) But, since, at that time, I had just started to like Olay Complete Care Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15, I thought I’d tried another moisturizer from Olay.

The one I got is Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream. It sounds like it is really dense and possibly greasy. But, when I tried the in-store tester, it seemed clear that it was not. It seemed light but still emollient, and it appeared to be suitable for my oily-dry skin. With Olay being a relatively affordable brand, I thought I’d try it out.

I really liked it the first time I used it. Even though it has a cream consistency, it is surprisingly lightweight and has a good slip. It is moisturizing and absorbs well, but it doesn’t feel heavy or look greasy at all. For me, it is a competent moisturizer for all seasons. Obviously, this is the first winter when I am using it. All I need is just to use a bit more of it than I do in warmer months, and I don’t need to layer on any other product.

One thing worth mentioning is that one of the major ingredients in this moisturizer is niacinamide. Paula Begoun describes ingredients like niacinamide and retinol as “cell-communicating ingredients“, which are able to work effectively at the cellular level to help improve the conditions and appearance of skin. (Read more about niacinamide and cell-communicating ingredients on Paula Begoun’s website.)

It contains benzyl alcohol, which can be a skin irritant. But it is not among the major ingredients and I have not had negative reactions to the product.

Overall this is a well-formulated moisturizer that happens to have the texture and the degree of emolliency that really suit me. I am quite positive that, as long as it remains available in the UK, I will continue to use it.

Related Posts:

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all of them in 2008!)

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Week
(my week-long series on facts and thoughts on anti-aging skincare)

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(image from www.dhcuk.co.uk)

One of my readers, Humming, left a comment on my blog a couple of days ago and told me that the DHC UK website had been launched. (Thank you, Humming!)

DHC now joins RMK, Paul & Joe, SUQQU, Shiseido International, and Kanebo International as Japanese brands available in the UK.

DHC is a major cosmetics brand in Japan, where, as far as I understand, still only runs mail/phone/on-line ordering and does not have a physical shop.

But, as we all know, word of mouth has its place in retailing, and when people say something is good, it gets our attention.

(Updated in July 2011: DHC has physical shops throughout Japan.)

DHC’s cult product is Deep Cleansing Oil. Not only is it DHC’s cult product, it is one of the cult skincare products in Japan. It would be slightly bizarre not to see it on a readers’ favorite skincare product list in any Japanese cosmetics magazine. (In the readers’ poll results in Biteki‘s February 2007 issue, it was placed second in the favorite makeup cleanser category, one place above Shu Uemura’s cleansing oil.)

It works just like Shu Uemura’s cleansing oil and removes all makeup, including waterproof makeup, in one go. (There is a good review of it on Beauty Anonymous if you are interested!)

I tried the Deep Cleansing Oil many years ago, but I personally didn’t like it. It did cleanse very effectively, but I was fairly certain that it gave me breakouts. (I have also tried Shu Uemura’s various cleaning oil formulas, but I usually find that they don’t emulsify well enough. For years, I have remained loyal to RMK’s Cleansing Oil and Boots Botanics Cleansing Oil.)

But, since that was many years ago and I live in a different climate now, I might consider giving it another go. Also, many DHC toners are alcohol-free and have simple formulations that have the potential to suit my sensitive skin. They will be the products I will pay more attention to.

So far, only the basic skincare items are sold on the DHC UK site. I hope the stock will be expanded later on. In the meantime, if you would like to see the vast array of DHC skincare and makeup products, do head over to the DHC US website. (But…do ignore the fact that the prices are, yet again, lower in the US…)

Related Posts:

My Daily Skincare Routine
(featuring RMK Cleansing Oil)

All About Japanese Cosmetics
(My love for Japanese cosmetics will never end…)


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Finally! FDA Regulates UVA Labeling

by PJ on Wednesday, December 12, 2007

in skincare


(image from U.S. Food and Drug Association)


I am sure many of you who are skincare-savvy know the importance of UVA protection. UVA rays cause premature aging of the skin, and sunscreen products as well as daytime moisturizers that have adequate anti-UVA ingredients can help prevent it.

I am surprised that FDA is only doing this now. Most Japanese brands have been specifying the strength of UVA protection of sunscreen products for quite some time, using the scale from PA+ to PA++++. Also, several European brands like Boots No. 7 and Garnier have been labeling the level of their sunscreen products for a number of years.

But better late than never. After all, adequate labeling on all sun-protection products is by far the best way to make people more aware of the importance and necessity of using adequate sun protection. I hope the new labeling system will be put into practice as soon as possible.

Related Posts:

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s try to follow all 10 of them.)

The Only Words You Need to Know About Anti-Aging
(Make sure you know them before your next trip to the drugstore.)

New Sunscreen Regulations for UVA Protection

(from cosmeticsdesign.com)

FDA Aims to Upgrade Sunscreen Labeling
(from U.S. Food and Drug Assiciation)

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(Boots Botanics Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser;
with a separate pump dispenser)


This time, in my “Bring It Back!” Series, I am not going to talk about a whole line of cosmetics. Instead, I am focusing on a very good and affordable makeup remover that has been discontinued.

Boots has various lines of skincare and makeup ranges. While one of my favorite Boots lines is No. 7, it doesn’t have a cleanser that I really like. On the other hand, the slightly cheaper Botanics line used to have the Essential Oil Wash Off Cleanser (seen above), which is a great overall cleanser for me.

It works just like other cleansing oils like Shu Uemura’s, as it takes off all the makeup, including water-proof items, at one go. I tend to like cleansing oils because they involve much less tugging and massaging than most cleansing milks, and they are much more gentle on my sensitive skin.

What was also fantastic about this cleansing oil is that it used to only cost 2 GBP (about 4 USD). Even though I slightly prefer RMK’s cleansing oil, this one only cost about one-tenth of its price at the time and I would gladly keep using this if this were still available.

I stocked up quite a few when it was being phased out, and now I am on my last bottle. My only minor complaint is that if it gets into the eyes, it can sometimes make them feel a little dry afterwards. (This is why I slightly prefer RMK’s.) But it is not something that bothers me very much.

The Boots Botanics line seems to still be doing well and there have been new items added to the lineup every now and then. I do hope Boots will consider adding a cleansing oil back to Botanics or any other skincare line…

Related post:

Another Boots product that I love using:
Boots No. 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator
(Find out how it actually works.)

Some “Bring It Back!” highlights:

Shiseido’s Inoui ID

Cynthia Rowley

Calvin Klein (See the new counter in Hong Kong!)

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(Prescriptives Better Off Fast-Acting Makeup Remover,
Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer,
and Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)


Prescriptives is generally renowned for base makeup products. I am going to review two of them, plus a water-proof makeup remover. Let’s dive straight in.

Magic Illuminating Potion in Red Neutralizer:

It is a primer that is supposed to even out redness. I understand what the product is trying do, as it imparts some yellow and green shimmer which attempts to cancel out redness. But overall, the shimmer sits on top of the redness (which is still visible) instead of neutralizing it.

Basically it is a primer that adds quite a lot of luminosity to the face (which can be a little too shiny for some people), and it is also able to alter the finish of your foundation. (My matte powder foundation takes on a more luminous finish.)

However, the overall texture is slightly too greasy and the finish is too shiny for my personal liking (apart from the fact that it doesn’t neutralize my redness).

Site Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15:
(with titanium dioxide to protect against UVA rays)

As we know, there are many products in the same category as YSL’s Touche Éclat, and this is one of them. Some of these products rely more on light-reflective particles while some use more opaque pigments. I think Prescriptives’ version is more toward the opaque-pigment end of the spectrum. Apart from that, the consistency is very creamy and it dries quite quickly, so swift blending is essential. It can be used as a general cream concealer for the face.

For covering imperfections around the eye area, I have noticed that, to reach the desired effect, it is better to put on the needed amount all at once and keep blending. Don’t layer and layer, as it will cake easily.

(Prescriptives Sight Unseen Brightening Concealer SPF 15)
(image from www.prescriptives.com)

The brush is wider than that of most other similar products, so it is not particularly designed for precision concealing. It is more for sweeping across slightly larger areas. Overall, as long as the blending is done speedily, the coverage is relatively satisfactory.

Better Off Fast-Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover:

This is a dual-phase makeup remover for eye and lip makeup. I always go for a dual-phase formula since it is able to dissolve makeup quickly and only very little rubbing and tugging is required for effective removal.

This one doesn’t disappoint me. It cleanses effectively and doesn’t irritate my eyes. It doesn’t leave any greasy residue, but I do suspect that it could possibly be a bit drying for some people. (I don’t have a particular preference regarding this, and I don’t mind some slightly oily residue since I always wash my whole face thoroughly after taking off the eye and lip makeup.)

Overall this is something worth considering, but do bear in mind that there are less expensive options that can preform equally well.

Related Posts:

Prescriptives Foundation Review: Flawless Skin & AnyWear
(Find out which one I prefer.)

My Foundation Routine
(as requested by one of you)

My Skincare Routine
(featuring my favorite makeup remover)

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October is Breast Cancer Awareness Month, and I thought it would be fitting to do another A Splash of Color post on another of my favorite colors, pink.

I’d also like to invite you to have a look at the website of Breast Cancer Care, UK’s leading organization which provides information, practical assistance, and emotional support for anyone affected by breast cancer. You can read more about exactly what Breast Cancer Care does.

————————–

Featured Items:

Makeup

Lavshuca Cheek Color in PK-1
Lavshuca Eye Color Select in PK-1
AYURA Aura Veil α in PK-11 Sweek Pink
AYURA lip gloss PK60
Paul and Joe lip gloss 04
Sofina Raycious Glamour Skin Powder (limited-edition pink case)
Clinique Glosswear for Lips in Cosmic Pink
Dior Diorissime Palette in 002 Seduction Drama
Dior Princess Ring in 001
Chanel Irréelle Blush in Tea Rose

Fragrance

Lancôme Miracle

Skincare

Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve

Bodycare

Boss Femme shower gel

Enjoy Other Splashes of Colors!

New-Leaf Green

Aqua Blue

Citrus Orange

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(No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator)
(photo from www.boots.com)

My sensitive skin can’t really tolerate regular exfoliating, but from time to time I do feel like a bit of scrubbing.

Among the samples I have used, I quite liked Estée Lauder’s Idealist Micro-D Deep Thermal Refinisher and Chanel’s Gommage Microperlé Élat. But I was still searching for something even milder.

I felt I hit the jackpot when I tried Boots’ No 7 Gentle Renewing No Grains Exfoliator.

No grains? So how does it exfoliate? Enzyme? No. AHA? No.

The main exfoliating agent is mica. Yes, it is the kind of mineral powder that gives your eyeshadows and foundations a bit of shimmer. (I can see the shimmer when I have a bit of the product on the back of my hand.) It is this fine powder that is doing the job.

So, technically, it is not “No Grains”, since mica is still a kind of physical particle. But it is so fine that I don’t feel that my face is being scrubbed. (It goes on simply like a liquid-y lotion.)

For me, it does a sublime job! My face feels and looks smoother after each use, and it is so gentle that it doesn’t give my face any redness, dryness, or discomfort.

I am in my second tube now and this product will continue to be a proud resident in my bathroom for quite some time to come!

Some other skincare posts:

My Daily Skincare Routine
(Do we share favorites?)

Rose & Co. Apothecary’s Rose Petal Salve
(A great lip balm that looks so adorable…)

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