skincare

(Paul & Joe, Suqqu, Visee, and YSL…
so which side is winning?)


Several days ago, someone in the asian_beauty community over at LiveJournal asked me whether I preferred Japanese over western cosmetics. I gave an answer but was inspired to write a longer post here.

In terms of makeup, I do actually prefer Japanese products. I have ten favorite makeup brands and seven of them are Japanese. There are three main reasons:

1. I tend to go for sheer pigmentation for eyeshadows, blushers and lipsticks.

2. I love cute/elegant/princessy (depending on the brand) packaging. I know this is purely subjective. Brands like Pout and Benefit have more than merely functional packaging and they are known for cute and quirky images respectively, but I am never a fan. Not even Stila (sorry Stila fans)…I don’t like cartoon drawings on my makeup. On the other hand, brands like Ayura and Jill Stuart can do no wrong for me.

I don’t usually put my makeup items away in toiletry bags or drawers. I arrange them beautifully and display them happily on my dressing table and on the shelves. They are part of the room and part of the decor. I choose my makeup with the same aesthetic eye as I choose a table lamp or a coffee table.

The bottom line is, with many brands that have looks that appeal to me, when I need something (be it a lipstick or a foundation), I am usually able to find something that looks great, both on my face and in front of my eyes, and I will use it with more enthusiasm and joy.

And it just happens that most of these brands are Japanese.

3. A simple reason: most Japanese makeup items are scent-free.

Skincare-wise, I don’t have a preference. When I first started using skincare products, I chose them by reading the blurbs. If they sounded like something I wanted my skin to look like and if the price was within my budget, I would consider trying them. But over the years, I have learned to pay attention to the chemical aspects of skincare products. Now the first thing I look at when choosing skincare products is the ingredient list. I know what is good for my skin and what I should avoid.

In this case, the packaging is important in terms of preserving the antioxidants in, say, a moisturizer. A container with a pump dispenser is far better than a jar with a lid. (So of course we are not talking about aesthetics here.)

The thing with quite a few Japanese toners and moisturizers is that they tend to have alcohol to create that fresh feel after each use. But my sensitive skin can’t really tolerate that. (I don’t think alcohol should be in any skincare product anyway. It is potentially drying and irritating.) I do love some of the Shu Uemura products because they are alcohol-free and are so gentle. But currently most of my skincare products are from western brands. For example, my moisturizers are from Estee Lauder and Lancome, and recently I bought one from Nivea. If you happen to wonder what I use on a daily basis, read my post here.

I think many of us, especially the younger generation, are getting quite knowledgeable about what does and doesn’t work, but there are still some people who buy whatever the sales assistants say is good. I do try to encourage friends around me to learn more about ingredients in skincare products. After all, they go on our faces every single day…we might as well learn about them. I think a good place to start would be Paula Begoun’s website, as I am sure many of you know. Do some research and it will benefit you immensely!

Overall, Japanese makeup has the edge. Skincare-wise, I simply use what works for me. At the moment, there are more western products in my skincare routine, while several years ago, I used more Japanese products. So I wouldn’t say I have a clear preference. It depends on what suits my skin and what is more available at a given time and place.

So, what’s your take on this?

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(pictured: my only sale purchase…)


I went to Central London for the start of the winter sale on the 27th. I have to say I was quite disappointed. Usually there would be a few surprises apart from what I expected to see, so the fun was trying to decide what to buy. (Battling between budget and desire can be painful but exciting at the same time…) But this time there was just nothing.

In Selfridges Oxford Street, where major cosmetics brands often unveil their latest collections before the actual UK launch date, I happened to see YSL’s and Givenchy’s Spring 2007 Collections. Givenchy’s new eyeshadow palette looked very exciting with all the vibrant colors. But when I tested them, I found that most of them were not very wearbale. On the other hand, YSL’s eyeshadow palettes were better in that respect. Two of them featured brown tones and the other one had soft green, pink, and lilac.

What happens in most UK department stores during the sale is that some brands have items with 30-50% discounts. They are usually surplus stock or unsold limited edition items from previous seasons. They are usually placed in a small box at the counter. This time I saw YSL’s Gold Celebration Palette from 2005 (the one with a heart in the middle), YSL’s Palette Signes D’Orient (Autumn 2006), and Dior’s 5-color eyeshadow palette in 370 (Autumn 2006).

The only thing I did get from the sale was this year’s Lancome Hydra Zen gift set, which includes Hydra Zen 50ml for normal to dry skin, Hydra Zen Nuit 15ml, Hydra Zen Yeux 3ml, and Juicy Tube 7ml in Fraise. The original price was more or less the normal retail price of the Hydra Zen 50ml. With 30% off, it was a good bargain, especially when I also use the richer Hydra Zen Nuit when the weather is very cold.

Overall, this is one of the most underwhelming sale trips. But on the bright side, it is money saved for next year…

Next few days: more updates and thoughts about some upcoming stuff

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Each year, the November issue of Frau magazine in Japan releases the annual makeup and skincare ranking. Beauty experts and makeup artists give points to all the new launches this year and the top-finishing products make the list.

I am listing the products sold internationally.

SKINCARE

Anti-aging:
SK-II: Signs Dual Treatment Mask
Guerlain: Orchidee Imperiale
Chanel: Sublimage
HR: Prodigy Mask
Estee Lauder: Advanced Night Repair Concentrate
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch

Toner:
Chanel: Hydramax+ Nanolotion
Natura Bisee: Diamond Mist
Dior: Deep Hydration Refreshing Spray

Moisturizer:
SK-II: Skin Rebooster
YSL: Fresh Hydrating Water Gel
YSL: Super Hydrating Detoxifying Essence

Cleanser:
Clarins: Pure Melt Cleansing Gel
RMK: Cleansing Milk
Clarins: Water Comfort One-Step Cleanser
HR: Prodigy Makeup Remover
Restgenol: Active Collagenol Lifting Force Cleansing

New Skincare Lines:
Givenchy: Power Youth

Pore Care:
HR: Pore Genius
Clinique: Turnaround 15-minute Facial
Biotherm: Line Peel Pore Targeter
Chanel: Purete Ideale Serum

MAKEUP

Mascara/Eyebrow:
Max Factor: Lash Artist
HR:Lash Queen Waterproof
Chanel: Inimitable
Givenchy: Eyebrow Prisme
Maybelline: Lash Stylist Waterproof
HR: Surrealist

Eye Color:
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970
RMK: Ingenious Natural Eyes 02
Chanel: Quadra Eye Shadow 51
YSL: Ombre Solo Double-Effect Eye 4
Sonia Rykiel: Cream Eyeliner 01

Lip Color:
Chanel: Rouge Allure 4, 14, 24, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 132
Sonia Rykiel: Lipstick AC 03
RMK: Irresistible Lips C 08
Guerlain: KissKiss Laque 740
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal Lipstick 304

BASE MAKEUP

Foundation:
Laura Mercier: Silk Cream Foundation
Laura Mercier: Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 Nude
Paul & Joe: Creamy Compact Foundation
SK-II: Airtouch Foundation

Others:
Givenchy: Prisme Libre #2
De la Mer: The Powder
Giorgio Armani: UV Master Primer SPF 40/ PA+++
Laura Mercier: Secret Brightener #2

PERFUME/ HAIR/ BODY
Chanel: Allure Sensuelle
YSL: Profil Minceur
Clarins: Body Shaping Supplement

(Frau magazine, November 2006)

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I don’t have naturally perfect skin. It is a bit sensitive, a bit oily, and a bit dry underneath all at the same time. These are the products that really work for me and help keep my skin in its best possible condition.

Morning:
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin
Chanel’s Soin Tendre Levres SPF 15
No7 Uplifting Day Cream SPF 15 (something more emollient for my neck)

Evening:
RMK Cleansing Oil (if I wear makeup during the day)
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Lancome Hydra Zen for Normal to Dry Skin
Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve (for lips)

I try to keep the routine simple. I don’t use an exfoliator or a moisturizing mask regularly. I have them and I use them when I need to. They are SOS products that I only use several times a year.

I don’t switch between products in different seasons. I simply apply a more generous amount of moisturizer in winter.

Also, I don’t use an eye cream. Eye creams are a complete marketing myth. A well-formulated moistuizer should work on the entire face, and there is no need to have another moisturizer that usually costs three times more than the facial moisturizer in the same line (in terms of unit price). I don’t have dark cycles, dry lines, and puffy eyes, and I don’t own an eye cream.

In terms of skincare, I think simpler is better. Cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreening are all you need.

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Finally I was at the SUQQU counter to see all the products for the first time yesterday. Wonderful service there, which reminded me of my trip to Japan when the sales assistants bowed to me after hearing my compliments on their products.

This time, she didn’t bow to me, but she did say “Thank you” when I complimented on their nice packaging. (Usually, at most other counters in the UK, I get the reply “It is indeed nice, isn’t it?” They will *never* say this in Japan. You are supposed to be thankful for a customer’s compliment, not to eagerly agree with it. Well, I know there is no right or wrong about this.)

I left with a Creamy Lip Stick in 22 Benikoji, a nice beige pink. I also got samples of HA Complex Lotion and HA Complex Emulsion. In true Japanese style, the sales assistant came around the counter and handed the bag to me with both hands. Again, I felt like I was in Takashimaya Shinjuku.

Later, I went to Fenwick Bond Street Christmas Shopping Evening. As I expected, there were loads of people in the beauty section. It’s because it was rare for a department store to have a 20% discount on all cosmetics and fragrances. (As far as I know, on special 20% off days, department stores like Debenhams and House of Fraser only do 10% on cosmetics and fragrances.) No surprise, the accessory section was full of people looking through all the “it” bags for this season.

I bought a few things, including the Depsea Therapy Moisture Recovery Nanowater. I left feeling satisfied and wanted to come back next year.

By the way, I saw Dior’s Asia-only “Ultra Shine 2” lipsticks in Harvey Nichols.

I will now save the money for the coming winter sale.

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Just a reminder really. I’ll (try to!) make it short.

First of all, wear sunscreen EVERY DAY, regardless of the weather or whether you need to be outdoor for a long time. If you can see any daylight, UV rays are present and you need to use protection. I know it means you have to wear sunscreen every day for the rest of our lives, but it is human beings’ fault in the first place to have ruined Nature’s ability to shield UV rays. So we have only ourselves to blame.

Secondly, apart from proper UVB protection, which the SPF represents, UVA protection is equally important. UVB rays burn our skin and both UVA and UVB rays cause skin cancer as well as accelerate the aging of the skin (by damaging collagen fibers).

Thirdly, a sunscreen with proper UVA protection should have at least one of the following five ingredients:

zinc oxide
titanium dioxide
avobenzone (aka Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
Mexoryl SX
Tinosorb

(from Paula Begoun’s website, and go there for a very comprehensive guide on sun protection)

Do learn to check the ingredient list of the sunscreen product (or any skincare product, actually) you buy. If a sunscreen product does not have any of those ingredients, it is NOT something you should pay any money for.

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I got a sample of this about a year ago. I tried it on the back of my hand and I felt it was too greasy even as a hand cream. I didn’t know what to use it for so I just put it away, and I kept wondering why so many people recommended it on magazines.

I thought of it a couple of days ago when my L’Occitane nail and cuticle cream was running out and when my Dior nail cream was no longer good enough for this cold weather. I have been putting it on before I went to bed for a couple of days and I am amazed with the result. My cuticles look moisturized despite the daily housework, and I think it might be even better than the L’Occitane one, which I have been using for the past two years.

I am seriously thinking about buying a full-size one (50ml) when the 5ml sample runs out. It costs 19 pounds in the UK, which I thought was fine. (It is cheaper than the 15-pound 30ml limited edition, in a small glass jar, which will be out soon.) However, I almost fell off my chair when I found out that it only costs $16 in the US. I am aware that American brands, like Clinique and Estee Lauder, are more expensive in EU, but not like this! It is more than doubled here!

But a 50ml “cuticle cream” for me will last for ages…so I will just have to get it for myself……

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(Biteki magazine, August 2007)

Biteki is one of the major beauty magazines in Japan. There are others, such as Voce and Maquia, but Biteki has always been my firm favorite.

The magazine was launched in May, 2001. I think I have almost every issue. Even here in the UK, I subscribe to it at JP-Books in Mitsukoshi Department Store London. I pay the airmail rate so the latest issue arrives about 5 days after it is in store in Japan. The service at JP-Books is absolutely wonderful.

Biteki is like Allure in America (there is no equivalent in the UK!!), but I have to say Biteki is much better. First of all, it is much more up-to-date. The regular feature “launch calendar” lists all the major launches in the upcoming month, and there are comments on some of these new products from readers who were asked to try them by the magazine.

Second of all, it is *way* more comprehensive (there’s simply no comparison). Every March, June, September, and December issue has a major feature (for at least 20 pages) of virtually all the new seasonal makeup products (usually around 1000 items, mostly with actual-size photos) by all the major brands (around 45 brands).

Biteki focuses specifically on skincare and makeup. There is very little fashion, or even perfume. That’s what I like about Biteki. With it, I know everything I need to know about what to expect in the beauty market and I can make very informed purchase choices.

As mentioned earlier, there is no equivalent to such kind of magazine in the UK. Compared with British people, Japanese people are much more into skincare and makeup. They want to know everything and they enjoy staying updated. British people are much more laid-back about this and they don’t do nearly as much research. Certainly a huge cultural difference. (I would probably put American consumers in the middle. Websites like MakeupAlley and most blogs about beauty products are US-based, while there are extremely few beauty blogs in the UK.)

I have shown many issues of Biteki to my local Dior sale assistant. She loved them and agreed with me that there should be a magazine just about cosmetics in the UK. I wonder when it is ever going to happen…

Updated on October 24, 2007:

Photo of the cover of Biteki magazine August 2007 is added above.

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(pictured: part of my collection)


I like Chanel‘s low-key but glamorous image. It has a pure sense of existence. I sometimes wonder what it would be like if Chanel changed its black packaging. But it is hard to imagine that. Unlike Dior, which changes packaging every couple of years, Chanel always keeps the black (and white). In a way, I hope this will never change.

My first Chanel purchase is Double Perfection Compact. Even though the color turned out to be too pale for my complexion, I couldn’t help but notice how fine the powder was.

I have never used many Chanel skincare products at the same time, but I realized that, over the years, I’ve had quite a few favorites (for my sensitive skin):

Systeme Purete – Le Gel (Purifying Cleansing Gel)

Gommage Microperle eclat (Maximum Radiance Exfoliating Gel)

Soin Tendre Levres (Hydrating Lip Treatment) (It has proper UVA and UVB sunscreen ingredients for daytime.)

Solution Destressante (Calming Emulsion) (This is extremely good when I have occasional small red patches on my face at the turn of seasons.)

Makeup-wise, I am a fan of the Irreelle line:

Irreelle Blush in 80 Tea Rose (the perfect natural pink)

Irreelle Blush in 90 Snow (good highlighter)

Irreelle Soleil in 21 Toundra (a good bronzer for my medium skin tone; with a slight shimmer)

Irreelle Duo in 10 Desert-Rose (Soft Eyeshadow Duo; very silky and blends well)

I also like Les 4 Ombres in 77 Influences and Ombre D’Eau in 50 Bay, both very wearable eyeshadows.

The Chanel Studio in Harvey Nichols London is perhaps one of the best Chanel counters in the world. It features the usual range available in the UK, plus items sold in the US and the Asian markets. I bought the Irreelle Blush (90 Snow, pictured bottom left) there. It is usually only sold in Asia..

As for recent launches, I quite like Poudre Douce (20 peche tendre and 50 mimosa in particular). I have similar products so I need to keep telling myself to stay away from them…

But I will always love Chanel…

Updated on June 10th 2009:

The Chanel Studio in the UK is moving to Selfridges in London. Please check this post for more information.

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(pictured: part of my own collection)
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If I had to stick to only one brand of cosmetics for the rest of my life, I would choose AYURA. It is a brand that exudes an understated ambiance of oriental sensitivity and elegance.

AYURA is named after the word “ayus” in Sanskrit, which means “life”, according to an AYURA dairy book I was given as a gift with purchase.

When I first saw this brand on a Japanese magazine, I was instantly attracted to its understated and elegant packaging. I like the fact that each product looks a bit different but is instantly recognizable as an AYURA product and that the products don’t have the individual names of the products printed on the containers (they are on a sticker on the bottom of the containers).

So when I went to Japan for the first time several years ago, I went a bit crazy. Also, the staff at the counter were so helpful, even when I couldn’t really speak Japanese.

Most of the body products I have have a wonderful scent, especially the Spirit of AYURA range. “It must be what heaven smells like,” I once said to a friend.

Here are some of my favorites:

Meditation Bath (bath soak): It turns milky once it is in contact with water. It is almost like taking a milk bath. The scent is very relaxing.

Arising Shower eau de cologne: Very zesty and invigorating. Light but lasting. I usually use it during daytime.

Spirit of AYURA eau de parfum: One of my three favorite fragrances. Even though it is supposed to be eau de parfum, I don’t feel that it is as strong and long-lasting as eau de parfum should be. It is a good balance between sensual floral and crispy citrus notes, with oriental twists.

Spirit of AYURA Aroma Hand (hand cream): A best-seller for AYURA, it is under the Spirit of AYURA range so it has the same scent. Lightly moisturizing and not greasy. It has very fine and sparse light-reflecting particles to make hands look smoother.

Lip Moist Wrapping: One of the best lip balms I have ever used, even though I don’t usually like lip balm in a spot (less hygienic). Moisturizing, long-lasting, and doesn’t give me the glossy and greasy look which I don’t like in a lip balm.

Lip Retouch Compact: It has a lip base, lip liner, lip gloss, and highlight liner to define lip shape. The compact (inside and out) looks divine!

I like the face care range as well. The oil cleanser and toners are fairly good. Their hair care range is also good, but I personally won’t spend that much on shampoo and conditioner.

One of the things they do which keep me going back to them is that they often bring out limited edition sets. They usually contain travel-size versions of their popular products, teamed with a limited edition product, which is only available as part of the set. Many people buy the sets for the limited editions and they get to try the products they don’t normally buy. Seems like a good business idea.

I think AYURA is available only in Japan and Taiwan. It is the brand I want to see in the UK the most!!

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