skincare



I have written in my post about my daily skincare routine that Estee Lauder’s DayWear Plus for Oily Skin is the daytime moisturizer that I use. I have been using it for years and I have never thought about changing it.

But recently I have discovered Olay Complete Care Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid for Combination and Oily Skin (SPF 15). For me, it is one of the very few daytime moisturizers that are as good as DayWear Plus.

It has a slightly thicker consistency than DayWear Plus, but it spreads easily and absorbs well. It dries up to a semi-matte finish. Thanks to mica, it does impart a subtle glow, but it does not look shiny or greasy. It is also a good base for makeup. Most importantly, it does not irritate my sensitive skin and my skin feels properly moisturized.

It is about 14 US dollars (for 75ml) in the UK, so it is a great cheaper alternative for me. (DayWear Plus (50ml) is about 56 US dollars here, whereas it is 38 US dollars in America!)

It contains titanium dioxide and butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane as the anti-UVA ingredients. (Please check out my post on sunscreen basics to see why we need ingredients like these in a daytime moisturizer.)

There are a few drawbacks of this product. It contains benzyl alcohol and citrus nobilis (mandarin extract), which can be skin irritants. Benzyl alcohol is not among the major ingredients while citrus nobilis is a bit higher up on the ingredient list. But I have not had negative reactions to the product. Also, the packaging is not totally opaque. Skin-benefiting ingredients that are light-sensitive can lose their effect overtime in this kind of packaging. Maybe Olay should consider rectifying this.

By the way, I know that Olay carries different products in different countries (or it may package and name products differently), and I can’t find this particular product on the Olay US website. Maybe someone can let me know more about this.

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The sun is shining and you are lying on the beach, busy being lazy.

But there’s a masquerade by the sea after sunset. You have your dazzling mask and all your powder and potion to bring out your radiance. All that’s left is to find that perfect floaty summer frock, maybe in blue as well……?

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Makeup

Sofina Raycious: Glamorous Skin Powder
Lavshuca: Eye Color Select BU-1
Lavshuca: Eye Color BG-1
Dior: DiorKiss 198 Plum Tart
Dior: DiorKiss 208 Mint Lemonade
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Gerlain: Guerlain by Emilio Pucci Lip Gloss 03 Sparkling Sea
(limited edition for summer 2007)
Maybelline: Volume Express Waterproof

Fragrance

Anna Sui: Sui Dreams

Skincare

Lancome: Tonique Douceur
KissMe: Lip Care Menthol

Previous Splash of Color: New-Leaf Green
Even more Splashes of Colors to come!

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They are very straightforward, and, quite frankly, blatantly obvious. But are you doing all of them?

1. Wear sunscreen. Every day. All your life.

2. Sleep well (quality and quantity).

3. Eat well (balance and variety).

4. Exercise (intensity and regularity).

5. Don’t smoke.

6. Moisturize.

7. Take off your makeup as soon as you don’t need it on.

8. Learn to read the ingredient lists of skincare products.

9. Stay hydrated. (Don’t overdo alcohol, coffee, or tea.)

10. Control the stress. (Don’t let it control you.)

These all come from my own experiences. As you can see, there is nothing new here. No miracle product. No secret remedy. I always believe we don’t need to spend a lot of money to have great skin.

Also, you have probably noticed that many of them are not directly related to skincare. I think we all need to be constantly reminded that our lifestyle can affect our appearance as much as what we put on our skin.

Go through the list. What have you been doing already? What needs to be improved? Sometimes we get so obsessed with what to buy at drugstores that we forget that skincare is not just the matter of choosing the right cleanser or exfoliator……

Every little thing you do to improve your overall lifestyle, it will improve your wellbeing and you’ll look better!

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(pictured: Watersall’s Splash Cool)

If you are someone that carries a water spray everywhere you go, then you might be interested in the purified water atomizer by Watersall.

The mist is exceptionally fine, which gives a nice and relaxing sensation.

But do remember not to spray it and just let it dry. Your skin will become even dryer. Pat the skin dry and apply a body lotion to seal in the moisture.

For me, I find it particularly useful for changing or modifying my hairstyle. The mist is fine, light, and even, so it moists the hair without weighing it down, making it easy to re-style. I know a normal water pump-spray can basically do the trick, but this is several notches better…

I am sure you can probably find another (very idiosyncratic) way it can work for you…

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I received some samples of Skin MD Natural Shielding Lotion some time ago and have been using it for several weeks.

It is billed as a “shielding lotion”, which, according to their website, keeps moisture-robbing irritants away from the skin while the proprietary ‘super’ humectants hydrate the skin throughout the day“. It can be used for face, hand, and body.

It is very light and non-greasy, and it absorbs well. Also, it doesn’t irritate my sensitive skin, which is great. (It doesn’t have alcohol, which is a huge plus for me.) Occasionally, when the weather was really cold, its texture and consistency was not rich enough and I would still put on a thin layer of my usual moisturizer.

So currently, when the weather can still get chilly (when the drying indoor heating is still needed), I use it as a serum before my usual moisturizer. I find that the product works the best for me like this in this time of year. I look forward to using it alone in summer and see how it goes.

As a hand lotion, it has been working nicely. It dries up to a satiny finish while keeping my hands moisturized. It is particularly great for daytime (no greasy fingers), while I would go for something slightly richer and more emollient right before bed.

If you have dry and sensitive skin and want to bring a bit of an enforcement to your existing skincare routine, I think this product is well worth some consideration.

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It is perhaps one of the best lip products I have ever used.

Back in 2004, I remember I was running out of lip balm towards the end of summer and I bought the Rose Petal Salve, Rose & Co. Apothecary‘s signature product, after reading about the Yorkshire-based shop’s launch in London’s Harvey Nichols.

At first, I was drawn to its elegant packaging and the very affordable price. (It wasn’t packaged like this then but it was equally nice.) After using it for a couple of nights, I realized I bought something really great.

It is very moisturizing but it doesn’t feel greasy or heavy. The lips look nicely moist and not oily. It also needs very little re-applying. The light rose scent smells divine but is never over-powering (I dislike lip products with any strong scent.)

It’s 5 pounds (about 10 US dollars) for 20 grams (the equivalent of around 5 stick lip balms). My previous one lasted about two years. Fantastic value!

It is also supposed to be multi-functional (as an eyebrow tamer and a cuticle cream), but I usually just use it as a lip balm and I only use it in the evening, as it doesn’t contain sunscreen.

Rose & Co. Apothecary products are available in the UK and Hong Kong.

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In every February issue of Biteki magazine, it reveals the ultimate favorite cosmetics products as voted by the readers. It is always very interesting to see how some veterans battle with the newcomers.

Again, I will only list products sold internationally. (Also, I will not list what I have listed on my previous post about 2006 best-sellers in Japanese department stores.)

*SKINCARE*

Cleansing/Toning
Shu Uemura: Cleansing Beauty Oil Premium A/O

Serum
Guerlain: Super Aqua Serum
Clarins: Contouring Facial Lift
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist
SKII: Eye Treatment Serum

Moisturizer
Creme de la Mer: Moisturizing Cream
Shiseido Cle de Peau: La Creme
SKII: Advanced Signs Treatment
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Perfection Creme
Clinique: Repairwear Intensive Eye Cream

Treatment
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch
Clinique: 15-Minute Facial

*BASE MAKEUP*

Primer
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base 02
Paul & Joe: Foundation Primer N 02

Concealer
Laura Mercier: Secret Camouflage SC-3

Foundation
RMK: Creamy Foundation

*COLOR MAKEUP*

Eye:
Chanel: 4 Powder Eyeshadows 27 (Golden Eyes)
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970 Stylish Move
RMK: Metallic Powder Eyes 11
Clinique: Cream Shaper for Eyes

Cheeks:
RMK: Ingenuous Cheeks 30
Anna Sui: Face Color Accent 300
YSL: Touche Blush 4
Shu Uemura: Glow on P Amber 83

Lips:
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal 303
Chanel: Aqualumiere 67
Stila: Lip Glaze (Passion Fruit)
Dior: DiorKiss 758

(from Biteki February 2007)

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I came across an interesting feature on the January issue of Biteki magazine. It lists best-sellers in each major department store throughout Japan and compares what customers like in different parts of the country. Today I am listing some of them as a whole (non-areal-specific) for you to have a look and I am focusing on products from brands available internationally.

*Skincare/Bodycare*

Shiseido Cle de Peau: Lotion Tendre
Clinique: Turnaround Concentrate
Origins: Dr. Andrew Weil for Origins Plantidote Mega-Mushroom Face Serum
Dior: Capture Totale Multi-Protection Correction Serum
RMK: Skin Smoother
RMK: Face Protector SPF 31
Biotherm: Celluli Peel
Clarins: Total Body Lift
SKII: Skin Treatment Essence

*Base Makeup*

RMK: Makeup Base
RMK: Creamy Makeup Base Mat
RMK: Liquid Foundation
YSL: Touche Eclat
Clinique: All About Eyes Concealer
Clinique: Perfectly Real Makeup

*Color Makeup*

Bobbi Brown: Long-Wear Gel Eyeliner
Helena Rubinstein: Lash Queen Water-Proof

Lancome: L’Extreme Water-Proof

Lancome: Juicy Tube 17
Chanel: Rouge Allure 04, 13, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 434
RMK: Ingenious Cheeks 29
RMK: Water Color Eyes 04
Anna Sui: Nail Color 333
Paul & Joe: Nail Color 26

(from Biteki January 2007)

One thing I have noticed is that there is one lipstick that tops virtually all the department store top-selling lists: Dior Addict Ultra Shine 2 in 340 Shiniest Peach. Ultra Shine 2 is only available in Asia at the moment, but the very exclusive Harvey Nichols in London actually has it!

Coming up in my next post, I will be sharing my daily foundation routine.

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(pictured: my SUQQU lipstick,
samples, and catalogue)

As requested by a reader, I decided to write a post about some individual SUQQU products after I had a more thorough look and got several samples earlier this month.

What really impresses me is the texture of their makeup. The lipsticks are so creamy, and the eyeshadows and blushers are so luxuriously silky that they almost seem creamy as well.

I am particularly keen on Powdery Cheeks in #11 (Ashibi), which is such a universally flattering color for most medium and light skin-tones.

One of their best-sellers is the Stick Concealer. The white one is used first as a base. Blending only comes after one of the two beige ones is layered on top of it. The white concealer is light-reflective and enhances the coverage of the beige concealer.

Here are some thoughts about what I have actually used:

1.Creamy Lip Stick in #22 (Benikoji)

I bought this in my first visit. It is a nice beige pink (even though it looks quite red in the photo). Pigmented and creamy, it is a great color for this season’s polished (and non-glossy) nude look.

2. Cream Foundation

I got a sample of this. Out of all their foundation formulations, this one provides the most coverage. It is not too difficult to blend (with my fingers) and it covers my pores fairly well. The staying power isn’t too bad. It has a dewy finish, which I don’t really like since I have quite oily skin. But I can use a matte loose powder to set the foundation, so that doesn’t bother me too much. (The color I got (#03) is slightly too pale and ashy for my medium skin-tone.)

3. Liquid Foundation Natural

I also got a sample of this. It provides more coverage than Liquid Foundation Skinny (light coverage) and Liquid Foundation Lucent (sheer coverage). It is one of the most easily blendable foundations I have ever tried. But the drawback is the staying power, which is not as good as the Creamy Foundation. The coverage is light to medium, and I would prefer more. Overall, I much prefer the Creamy Foundation.

I got this one in #04. Even though #04 should be the immediate darker shade than #03 for all their foundations, it is actually slightly too dark for me (while #03 is slightly too pale). Maybe the secret lies in #03B, which is between the two shades?

4. HA Complex Cream

Sample again. (The actual product costs about 240 USD for 30g…) I actually don’t like it that much simply because I am quite certain it has alcohol. Even though I couldn’t smell it, my skin turned a bit red about 10 minutes after application, which is typical with any moisturizer with any amount of alcohol. (I will probably have my neck enjoy this very expensive moisturizer…)

I have also got samples of HA Complex Lotion, HA Complex Emulsion, and Make Up Base. But I can really smell alcohol in all these (which is unfortunately so common with a lot of Japanese skincare products). I don’t think my face can handle any of these…

All skincare products have their signature orchid fragrance. It does smell gorgeous, even though it is much better for skincare products to be fragrance-free. In Japan last Christmas, SUQQU had a limited-edition perfume based on this orchid note. I am really hoping it will be re-released as part of the permanent collection!

One skincare product I am actually quite keen on is the Lip Essence Cream. It is very emollient and creamy. Too bad it is so pricey (about 60 USD)!

I personally think SUQQU is stronger in makeup than in skincare. But it is only because my skin can’t really tolerate alcohol and any massaging (the Musculate Massage Cream, which is used daily, is the heart of their skincare regime) and because I do think their color makeup range is simply sublime.

I look forward to seeing their spring 2007 collection. It looks great on the website and I love a makeup collection with a strong theme. I’ll definitely review it after I see it in store.

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Edited, on February 25, 2007, as requested by reader:

Price list of reviewed products in UK
(from SUQQU catalogue)

Creamy Lip Stick: £24
Powdery Cheeks: £22
Stick Concealer: £20
Cream Foundation: £60
Liquid Foundation Natural: £40
Liquid Foundation Skinny: £40
Liquid Foundation Lucent: £30
Make Up Base: £24
HA Complex Lotion: £45
HA Complex Emulsion: £70
HA Complex Cream: £120
Lip Essence Cream: £30
Musculate Massage Cream: £60

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(stunning ad from SUQQU’s Fall 2006 collection)
(from www.suqqu.com)
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Back in September 2003, when SUQQU‘s first counter opened in Isetan Department Store (a world-class cosmetics heaven, and an ultimate battlefield for all brands) in Shinjuku, Tokyo, people were waiting outside the store for the doors to open. The revenue of its first day of sale broke the record of this upmarket department store for a debut brand (Voce Magazine, March 2007).

Why did so many people rush to buy SUQQU’s products even before they sampled them and why has it been successful since its debut? Apart from the quality of the products itself, I think there are two very crucial reasons.

First of all, in a youth-obsessed society (in a globally youth-obsessed era), where packaging is getting cuter and the colors are getting funkier, SUQQU resorts to the reverse strategy. It targets mature grown-ups. It appeals to women who are successful, classy, intelligent, and sophisticated. I believe that, by doing so, it also appeals to young women who look up to their more mature peers. It altogether creates a surprisingly wide market.

Another reason is their beautifully constructed theme for each season and the visual brilliance of their ad campaigns that convey the theme. Usually printed cosmetics ads feature the face of the model freshly made up against a muted background. Pretty straightforward, but dull at the same time. Not SUQQU’s ads. They always have a sense of message and story, and it certainly helps when the colors of each seasonal makeup collection have such a strong identity.

Last spring, it was a collection which couldn’t be more pink, with pink eyeshadows, pink lipsticks, and pink blushers. The ad featured beautiful full-bloomed flowers as the backdrop:

(ad for SUQQU’s spring 2006 collection)

(from www.suqqu.com)
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Last fall, the collection featured primary colors used in ancient Japanese pottery. The ad (at top of the page) is stunning. But I think the upcoming spring 2007 collection is even more impressive. The theme is “goddess of the earth”. The eyeshadows are shades of blue and beige, paired with beige and brown lipsticks. It’s the sea versus the desert, bare earth versus deep ocean. The ad features a woman between the desert and the blue sky/ocean. She looks confident and in charge.

(SUQQU makeup leaflet for summer 2007)
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Primary colors and shades of blue are not easy to pull off. But SUQQU’s message is “Wear them and be confident!” Packaged minimally with oriental sensitivity and sensuality, the colors inside are bursting with personality and attitude. All of these give SUQQU a very unique edge.

Later this month, I’ll come back to SUQQU again and review some of the makeup and skincare products. There are some fantastic products to be written about, including the smoothest eyeshadows I have ever tried.

Stay tuned!

Next: a lipgloss that has sold over one million copies in Japan.

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