skincare

Over-Hyped Products: My Personal Take

by PJ on Sunday, February 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

There are many products that are always heavily featured in magazines and I am sure you sometimes think “They are not that good.” You might have used them and thought they were shockingly average, or you simply don’t fall for the hype.

For me personally, these products are over-hyped in different ways:

1. Creme de la Mer (hype despite of the price)

I admit I have never used it, so I can’t say whether it is a good moisturizer in itself for me. However, I don’t think any moisturizer (even if it is well-formulated) should cost this much, especially when algae (included in this product) is one of the cheapest and easily accessible ingredient.

Some people say they just want to have a bit of luxury in life. We all do sometimes, but it is a luxury *only if* it is better than anything else!

Unfortunately, there are loads more other products that fall into this ultra-premium category. Ignorant customers can easily be lured into them.

2. Lancome Juicy Tube (hype despite of the quality)

Its price is fine. It is affordable. But many magazines claim this is the best lip gloss. I also read that, on Ebay UK, it is one of the most searched items under the Health and Beauty category.

I have used it and I do think it is good. The slanted applicator is convenient and the gloss stays put and lasts for hours. But most of my other lip glosses give the same performances and I don’t understand the hype of it.

3. Kose Sekkisei Lotion (hype despite of the irritating ingredient)

Readers from many Asian countries will know what I am talking about here. It has been sold for more than 20 years and it is still one of the most popular toners in Japan. It is claimed to give skin brightness and luminosity. A popular way to use this toner is to soak a tissue mask in it and wear the mask for a good 20 minutes.

I bought this almost ten years ago and it proved again that alcohol and I really couldn’t get along, especially when there is so much of it (imagine Clinique Clarifying Lotion 3). I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again…alcohol is a major skin irritant and should not be added to any skincare product.

4. Benefit (hype despite of the packaging)

Right, this is only about the look, and feel free to disagree, because packaging is totally subjective and all views are valid. It seems like many people love the quirky and fun packaging of Benefit. I do like some of the imaginative names of the products, but that’s as far as it goes. The packaging is indeed very catchy so I understand why it stands out, but I personally really don’t like it at all. I don’t like cartoon drawings on my cosmetics. They just seem too child-like.

I tend to like packaging that is glamorous and relatively understated, like Chanel and Dior. I do girlie too, like Paul & Joe and Anna Sui. But Benefit is just too much for me. (So is Stila.)

(The only Benefit product I am interested in is the fragrance Maybe Baby. I like the smell and the bottle is simple but glamorous and elegant. But this look is not typical of most Benefit products……)

I’ll stop here and let you guys think about what products you think are over-hyped.

{ 4 comments }

Avene Thermal Water

by PJ on Sunday, January 28, 2007

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, stash focus


(Pictured: my Avene Thermal Water)


My Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion ran out and I knew it had been discontinued. So I asked a sample of another Shu Uemura toner beforehand (about a year ago). I tried it and liked it, thinking I would switch to this one.

I bought it last month and started using it a couple of weeks ago, and I actually didn’t like it. It felt a little bit thick on my face, and, more importantly, it made my skin flush just a little bit. As I decided not to use it anymore, I started to panic a little. I always use a toner but a really suitable one is very hard to come by. I can’t do alcohol, which rules out A LOT of toners. I also don’t like that sticky and filmy feel. It has to be something very fresh and calming. (I also tried not using a toner at all. That didn’t work. I know a toner is generally optional, but I actually need it.)

Then I started to think of all the toners I tired and kind of liked. Lancome’s Tonique Douceur is good, but it is still slightly filmy. Ayura’s AF1 toner is good too, but it is pricey and it is not available in the UK. (I would have to have my friend buy it for me, but that is too much of a hassle.) I needed something good and easily available locally.

Then I thought of Avene Thermal Water. I used it about 6 years ago. I used it to set my makeup and I didn’t like the effect. (Setting makeup with a face spray was never a good idea anyway, I later learned. It NEVER worked.) But it did feel light on my skin and certainly didn’t irritate it. Plus, my local Boots started to stock Avene products again. (It stopped stocking them about three years ago.) It was cheap anyway so I decided to give it a try.

I first bought the travel-size one (50ml). I used it for a couple of days and I liked it. It is of course really just spring water and it does feel light and refreshing. It calms my skin as well. I also notice that it seems to evaporate slightly more slowly (than if I splash tap water on my face). I think it might be because of the minute traces of silica that naturally exist in the spring water. But it does not feel filmy at all.

So far I am happy. I also bought the normal size a couple of days later.

I still have some samples of Ayura’s AF (Alcohol-Free) 1 toner and I will use them when I need to during this time of year (as they are more moisturising). But Avene Thermal Water will now be an official member of my skincare team.

{ 4 comments }

Paula Begoun: A Consumer Advocate

by PJ on Sunday, January 21, 2007

in makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

I know that Paula Begoun sells her own cosmetics, but for me, I see her as a consumer advocate. I have never tried or bought her products, but I have learned a lot from her in terms of choosing suitable products for myself in my local drug stores and department stores. She knows about the science behind the research and manufacturing of cosmetics and she reviews products accordingly.

I happened to come across her website in the mid-90’s when I started to acquaint myself with the world of the Internet. (That seems so long ago!) What I noticed first is her opposition to alcohol in any skincare product. Ever since I started to use skincare products regularly, I noticed that my skin could not tolerate any alcohol. But, at the time, I was confused by what I had been reading. Some said alcohol could contribute to better penetration of other ingredients and some said it acted as a sterilizer.

But, for me, all alcohol did was irritating my skin, making it dry and red.

I thought what Paula said about alcohol made more sense to me, which started my interest in reading more about her views. She was also one of the first people who really emphasized the importance of using proper sunscreen products all year long.

This coincided with what my mother had always been telling me. She regularly went to health seminars in our local hospital and she always said (in the mid-90’s when the idea of everyday sun protection was not as pervasive as it is today) that a good sunscreen lotion was the best anti-ageing product. She uses a sunscreen lotion every day, and her skin looks fantastic for her age.

So, since then, I have been reading what Paula has to say about skincare and makeup products, and many of my own views are influenced by her.

Besides alcohol and sunscreen, I agree with her on the issue of eye creams. Simply speaking, there is generally no need to buy a separate moisturizer for the eye area. Most well-formulated moisturizers can be used around the eyes. Of course if a facial moisturizer has ingredients to exfoliate the skin, then it shouldn’t be used around the eyes. But what is usually the case is that the face cream and the eye cream that come in the same moisturizer range feature almost identical ingredients. If the face cream works for your skin, it should usually work around your eyes as well. I personally think eye creams are a marketing myth. They have more or less the same ingredients but cost around three times as much as the face cream equivalents in terms of unit price.

Some people think Paula’s credibility has been going down since she launched her own line. But for me, she still has the same knowledge and she doesn’t stop recommending other products that she thinks are good. Some people also point out that she doesn’t have a formal qualification to do what she is doing. But, she has the knowledge and her views are scientifically supported. Also, the studies she makes references to are not funded by private cosmetics companies. Aren’t these the most important things here?

Even in terms of the one thing I used to slightly question her, she has been modifying her view. Around ten years ago, I remember she used to almost only recommend makeup items with a matte finish and those in neutral earthy tones. I did generally agree with her view, since soft matte neutral colors suit most people for most occasions. It is the most sensible recommendation for the mass public. But I still thought she could be a little less conservative about both color and finish.

But a couple of years ago, I was pleasantly surprised to read that she thought any person could wear almost any color as long as the intensity and the application are right. (See here.) And she indeed has recommended products like Maybelline’s Dream Mousse Eyecolor and Blush, both of which have noticeable shimmer.

Overall, Paula Begoun is someone I have learned a lot from. I have learned to read the ingredient list and not to fall for the exaggerating claims of the cosmetics companies. What a product can do lies in the ingredient list (not in the ads), and we should have the knowledge to learn about what we put on our faces everyday.

We don’t necessarily need her products. We just need her knowledge.

Finally, two important reminders for everyone:

1: Learn to read the ingredient list. (Let’s all be well-informed consumers!)

2: Wear a moisturizer with proper UVA and UVB protection every day!
(See here for what ingredients you should look for.)

My next post: Dior’s Spring 2007 Collection!

(Edited on April 19, 2007: There is a great interview with Paula Begoun here.)

{ 4 comments }

Avon: It Will Be a Long Way…

by PJ on Saturday, January 13, 2007

in makeup, skincare

I got my first ever Avon catalog a couple of days ago. I have never used anything from Avon before and I am not sure what I should be looking for. I really think this is more or less what the general public in the UK are feeling toward the brand.

The reason for me to order a catalog (which is easier to browse than the website) is that I wanted to know more about Avon products after I watched a program about Avon on BBC a few weeks ago. It looked into the recent expansion of Avon in the UK and what difficulties it had been experiencing.

It mentioned several key difficulties. One is the dated image of the brand. Another is the lack of A-list celebrity endorsement. Still another is the lack of a clear target consumer group.

But I personally think there is another problem. It lacks a major “cult” product to attract attention to the whole brand. When everybody around you or on an Internet forum has been saying something is good, it is quite likely that you will be interested in finding out what the fuss is about.

I’d like to use the example of DHC’s cleansing oil. In Japan, shopping for DHC products is not totally a glamorous affair. DHC mainly uses mail and telephone orders for their sales. They don’t do heavy celebrity endorsement campaigns. Their packaging is plain and far from trendy.

Overall, it is similar to Avon in the UK. But the DHC cleansing oil has been so popular in Japan that it has the ability to propel sales of other DHC products. I believe a usual pattern is for someone to start using and falling in love with the cleansing oil and then trying other DHC products as a natural progression.

Unfortunately, it is not enough to have wonderfully formulated products. Some level of hype has to be generated to grab people’s attention and for the products to fly off the shelves.

YSL has Touche Elat, Lancome has the mascaras, and Clinique has the 3-step system, but Avon is not famous for anything (at least in the UK). Sometimes it only takes one product to get the customers closer to the whole brand.

Another thing I think Avon should do in the UK is to make samples more readily available. Since we don’t have the traditional Avon ladies here (do correct me if I am wrong) and it does not have a counter, it is very hard for people to sample Avon products first before they think about whether they want to make a purchase. Even though Avon has a great money back guarantee policy (even when the product has been used), it is still a chore to pack an unsuitable product up and send it back.

What happened to me is that, after asking around, I found that many people seemed to like Avon Glazewear lipglosses. But I still don’t think I’ll make any purchase because I’d really like to try the colors first, at least on the back of my hand, just to see the pigmentation and the level of shimmer. So, even though I am quite keen to experiment in general, I am still a bit hesitant to make a purchase at the moment.

One of the things that DHC does is offering travel-size sample kits at a very low price so that people can easily afford to try a variety of products and see what they can incorporate into their existing skincare routine. That’s the way to go!

I think Avon still has a long way to go before it can make it big in the UK. Unless they get the marketing (which includes customer sampling) spot on, it will be a very long journey…

{ 6 comments }

Japanese vs. Western

by PJ on Thursday, January 4, 2007

in all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

(Paul & Joe, Suqqu, Visee, and YSL…
so which side is winning?)


Several days ago, someone in the asian_beauty community over at LiveJournal asked me whether I preferred Japanese over western cosmetics. I gave an answer but was inspired to write a longer post here.

In terms of makeup, I do actually prefer Japanese products. I have ten favorite makeup brands and seven of them are Japanese. There are three main reasons:

1. I tend to go for sheer pigmentation for eyeshadows, blushers and lipsticks.

2. I love cute/elegant/princessy (depending on the brand) packaging. I know this is purely subjective. Brands like Pout and Benefit have more than merely functional packaging and they are known for cute and quirky images respectively, but I am never a fan. Not even Stila (sorry Stila fans)…I don’t like cartoon drawings on my makeup. On the other hand, brands like Ayura and Jill Stuart can do no wrong for me.

I don’t usually put my makeup items away in toiletry bags or drawers. I arrange them beautifully and display them happily on my dressing table and on the shelves. They are part of the room and part of the decor. I choose my makeup with the same aesthetic eye as I choose a table lamp or a coffee table.

The bottom line is, with many brands that have looks that appeal to me, when I need something (be it a lipstick or a foundation), I am usually able to find something that looks great, both on my face and in front of my eyes, and I will use it with more enthusiasm and joy.

And it just happens that most of these brands are Japanese.

3. A simple reason: most Japanese makeup items are scent-free.

Skincare-wise, I don’t have a preference. When I first started using skincare products, I chose them by reading the blurbs. If they sounded like something I wanted my skin to look like and if the price was within my budget, I would consider trying them. But over the years, I have learned to pay attention to the chemical aspects of skincare products. Now the first thing I look at when choosing skincare products is the ingredient list. I know what is good for my skin and what I should avoid.

In this case, the packaging is important in terms of preserving the antioxidants in, say, a moisturizer. A container with a pump dispenser is far better than a jar with a lid. (So of course we are not talking about aesthetics here.)

The thing with quite a few Japanese toners and moisturizers is that they tend to have alcohol to create that fresh feel after each use. But my sensitive skin can’t really tolerate that. (I don’t think alcohol should be in any skincare product anyway. It is potentially drying and irritating.) I do love some of the Shu Uemura products because they are alcohol-free and are so gentle. But currently most of my skincare products are from western brands. For example, my moisturizers are from Estee Lauder and Lancome, and recently I bought one from Nivea. If you happen to wonder what I use on a daily basis, read my post here.

I think many of us, especially the younger generation, are getting quite knowledgeable about what does and doesn’t work, but there are still some people who buy whatever the sales assistants say is good. I do try to encourage friends around me to learn more about ingredients in skincare products. After all, they go on our faces every single day…we might as well learn about them. I think a good place to start would be Paula Begoun’s website, as I am sure many of you know. Do some research and it will benefit you immensely!

Overall, Japanese makeup has the edge. Skincare-wise, I simply use what works for me. At the moment, there are more western products in my skincare routine, while several years ago, I used more Japanese products. So I wouldn’t say I have a clear preference. It depends on what suits my skin and what is more available at a given time and place.

So, what’s your take on this?

{ 39 comments }

Winter Sale & YSL/Givenchy Spring 2007 Collections

by PJ on Friday, December 29, 2006

in -Givenchy, -Lancôme, -YSL, 2007 Spring, makeup, skincare, stash focus

(pictured: my only sale purchase…)


I went to Central London for the start of the winter sale on the 27th. I have to say I was quite disappointed. Usually there would be a few surprises apart from what I expected to see, so the fun was trying to decide what to buy. (Battling between budget and desire can be painful but exciting at the same time…) But this time there was just nothing.

In Selfridges Oxford Street, where major cosmetics brands often unveil their latest collections before the actual UK launch date, I happened to see YSL’s and Givenchy’s Spring 2007 Collections. Givenchy’s new eyeshadow palette looked very exciting with all the vibrant colors. But when I tested them, I found that most of them were not very wearbale. On the other hand, YSL’s eyeshadow palettes were better in that respect. Two of them featured brown tones and the other one had soft green, pink, and lilac.

What happens in most UK department stores during the sale is that some brands have items with 30-50% discounts. They are usually surplus stock or unsold limited edition items from previous seasons. They are usually placed in a small box at the counter. This time I saw YSL’s Gold Celebration Palette from 2005 (the one with a heart in the middle), YSL’s Palette Signes D’Orient (Autumn 2006), and Dior’s 5-color eyeshadow palette in 370 (Autumn 2006).

The only thing I did get from the sale was this year’s Lancome Hydra Zen gift set, which includes Hydra Zen 50ml for normal to dry skin, Hydra Zen Nuit 15ml, Hydra Zen Yeux 3ml, and Juicy Tube 7ml in Fraise. The original price was more or less the normal retail price of the Hydra Zen 50ml. With 30% off, it was a good bargain, especially when I also use the richer Hydra Zen Nuit when the weather is very cold.

Overall, this is one of the most underwhelming sale trips. But on the bright side, it is money saved for next year…

Next few days: more updates and thoughts about some upcoming stuff

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Frau Magazine: The Best of 2006

by PJ on Sunday, December 17, 2006

in -Biotherm, -Chanel, -Clarins, -Clinique, -Crème de la Mer, -Dior, -Estée Lauder, -Giorgio Armani, -Givenchy, -Guerlain, -Helena Rubinstein, -Laura Mercier, -Max Factor, -Maybelline, -Paul & Joe, -RMK, -SK-II, -Sonia Rykiel, -YSL, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, makeup - base makeup, skincare

Each year, the November issue of Frau magazine in Japan releases the annual makeup and skincare ranking. Beauty experts and makeup artists give points to all the new launches this year and the top-finishing products make the list.

I am listing the products sold internationally.

SKINCARE

Anti-aging:
SK-II: Signs Dual Treatment Mask
Guerlain: Orchidee Imperiale
Chanel: Sublimage
HR: Prodigy Mask
Estee Lauder: Advanced Night Repair Concentrate
Estee Lauder: Perfectionist Power Correcting Patch

Toner:
Chanel: Hydramax+ Nanolotion
Natura Bisee: Diamond Mist
Dior: Deep Hydration Refreshing Spray

Moisturizer:
SK-II: Skin Rebooster
YSL: Fresh Hydrating Water Gel
YSL: Super Hydrating Detoxifying Essence

Cleanser:
Clarins: Pure Melt Cleansing Gel
RMK: Cleansing Milk
Clarins: Water Comfort One-Step Cleanser
HR: Prodigy Makeup Remover
Restgenol: Active Collagenol Lifting Force Cleansing

New Skincare Lines:
Givenchy: Power Youth

Pore Care:
HR: Pore Genius
Clinique: Turnaround 15-minute Facial
Biotherm: Line Peel Pore Targeter
Chanel: Purete Ideale Serum

MAKEUP

Mascara/Eyebrow:
Max Factor: Lash Artist
HR:Lash Queen Waterproof
Chanel: Inimitable
Givenchy: Eyebrow Prisme
Maybelline: Lash Stylist Waterproof
HR: Surrealist

Eye Color:
Dior: 5-Color Eyeshadow 970
RMK: Ingenious Natural Eyes 02
Chanel: Quadra Eye Shadow 51
YSL: Ombre Solo Double-Effect Eye 4
Sonia Rykiel: Cream Eyeliner 01

Lip Color:
Chanel: Rouge Allure 4, 14, 24, 30
Dior: Rouge Dior 132
Sonia Rykiel: Lipstick AC 03
RMK: Irresistible Lips C 08
Guerlain: KissKiss Laque 740
Estee Lauder: Pure Color Crystal Lipstick 304

BASE MAKEUP

Foundation:
Laura Mercier: Silk Cream Foundation
Laura Mercier: Tinted Moisturizer SPF 20 Nude
Paul & Joe: Creamy Compact Foundation
SK-II: Airtouch Foundation

Others:
Givenchy: Prisme Libre #2
De la Mer: The Powder
Giorgio Armani: UV Master Primer SPF 40/ PA+++
Laura Mercier: Secret Brightener #2

PERFUME/ HAIR/ BODY
Chanel: Allure Sensuelle
YSL: Profil Minceur
Clarins: Body Shaping Supplement

(Frau magazine, November 2006)

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My Daily Skincare Routine

by PJ on Friday, December 8, 2006

in -Chanel, -Estée Lauder, -Lancôme, -RMK, -Shu Uemura, all about Japanese cosmetics, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others, stash focus

I don’t have naturally perfect skin. It is a bit sensitive, a bit oily, and a bit dry underneath all at the same time. These are the products that really work for me and help keep my skin in its best possible condition.

Morning:
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Estee Lauder DayWear Plus SPF 15 for Oily Skin
Chanel’s Soin Tendre Levres SPF 15
No7 Uplifting Day Cream SPF 15 (something more emollient for my neck)

Evening:
RMK Cleansing Oil (if I wear makeup during the day)
Johnson’s Sensitive Facial Wash
Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion
Lancome Hydra Zen for Normal to Dry Skin
Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve (for lips)

I try to keep the routine simple. I don’t use an exfoliator or a moisturizing mask regularly. I have them and I use them when I need to. They are SOS products that I only use several times a year.

I don’t switch between products in different seasons. I simply apply a more generous amount of moisturizer in winter.

Also, I don’t use an eye cream. Eye creams are a complete marketing myth. A well-formulated moistuizer should work on the entire face, and there is no need to have another moisturizer that usually costs three times more than the facial moisturizer in the same line (in terms of unit price). I don’t have dark cycles, dry lines, and puffy eyes, and I don’t own an eye cream.

In terms of skincare, I think simpler is better. Cleansing, moisturizing, and sunscreening are all you need.

{ 4 comments }

SUQQU in Selfridges London and Shu Uemura in Fenwick Bond Street

by PJ on Thursday, December 7, 2006

in -Shu Uemura, -SUQQU, all about Japanese cosmetics, all about Japanese cosmetics (overseas availability information), makeup, skincare



Finally I was at the SUQQU counter to see all the products for the first time yesterday. Wonderful service there, which reminded me of my trip to Japan when the sales assistants bowed to me after hearing my compliments on their products.

This time, she didn’t bow to me, but she did say “Thank you” when I complimented on their nice packaging. (Usually, at most other counters in the UK, I get the reply “It is indeed nice, isn’t it?” They will *never* say this in Japan. You are supposed to be thankful for a customer’s compliment, not to eagerly agree with it. Well, I know there is no right or wrong about this.)

I left with a Creamy Lip Stick in 22 Benikoji, a nice beige pink. I also got samples of HA Complex Lotion and HA Complex Emulsion. In true Japanese style, the sales assistant came around the counter and handed the bag to me with both hands. Again, I felt like I was in Takashimaya Shinjuku.

Later, I went to Fenwick Bond Street Christmas Shopping Evening. As I expected, there were loads of people in the beauty section. It’s because it was rare for a department store to have a 20% discount on all cosmetics and fragrances. (As far as I know, on special 20% off days, department stores like Debenhams and House of Fraser only do 10% on cosmetics and fragrances.) No surprise, the accessory section was full of people looking through all the “it” bags for this season.

I bought a few things, including the Depsea Therapy Moisture Recovery Nanowater. I left feeling satisfied and wanted to come back next year.

By the way, I saw Dior’s Asia-only “Ultra Shine 2” lipsticks in Harvey Nichols.

I will now save the money for the coming winter sale.

{ 7 comments }

Sunscreen Basics

by PJ on Monday, December 4, 2006

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others, What do you think? Beauty topics and thoughts

Just a reminder really. I’ll (try to!) make it short.

First of all, wear sunscreen EVERY DAY, regardless of the weather or whether you need to be outdoor for a long time. If you can see any daylight, UV rays are present and you need to use protection. I know it means you have to wear sunscreen every day for the rest of our lives, but it is human beings’ fault in the first place to have ruined Nature’s ability to shield UV rays. So we have only ourselves to blame.

Secondly, apart from proper UVB protection, which the SPF represents, UVA protection is equally important. UVB rays burn our skin and both UVA and UVB rays cause skin cancer as well as accelerate the aging of the skin (by damaging collagen fibers).

Thirdly, a sunscreen with proper UVA protection should have at least one of the following five ingredients:

zinc oxide
titanium dioxide
avobenzone (aka Parsol 1789 or butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane)
Mexoryl SX
Tinosorb

(from Paula Begoun’s website, and go there for a very comprehensive guide on sun protection)

Do learn to check the ingredient list of the sunscreen product (or any skincare product, actually) you buy. If a sunscreen product does not have any of those ingredients, it is NOT something you should pay any money for.

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