skincare

Japanese Cosmetics Focus: Kanebo Freeplus

by PJ on Friday, June 13, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Freeplus, -Kanebo, all about Japanese cosmetics, skincare

(Kanebo Freeplus)
(image from www.kanebo-cosmetics.jp/freeplus/)

Very early on (in my post Japanese vs. Western), I have mentioned that even though I have a passion for Japanese makeup products, I don’t particularly prefer Japanese skincare products over western ones. My biggest complaint is that many Japanese toners and moisturizers have alcohol and that some have way too much of it. This is why Kanebo‘s Freeplus seems like a welcome breath of fresh air to me.

Freeplus is a mid-range skincare line sold at the Kanebo counter (in Japan and some other Asian regions), alongside many other skincare lines targeted at different needs and age groups. The line appeals to people with sensitive skin which reacts negatively to common irritants.

(Shiseido’s equivalent (skincare line for sensitive skin) is d program.) The line also features base makeup products.

According to the brand’s website, the name “Freeplus” represents the two major aspects of the products:

“FREE“:

All products are free from parabens, fragrance, and chemical sunscreen ingredients, and most (skincare) products are free from alcohol, colourants, and mineral oil. (The four products that still have alcohol are Fresh Soap Bar, Acne Spots, UV Day Protector, and UV Body Protector.)

“PLUS“:

The products are formulated with six oriental herbal extracts (Chinese date (jujube), citrus unshiu peel, cape jasmine (gardenia jasminoides, also known as gardenia florida)), Japanese honeysuckle, peach kernel, and job’s tears). They are supposed to moisturize the skin and support its protective barrier. (These claims are mainly for your reference, since beauty companies make all kinds of claims, some of which have no scientific backup. But a brief mention of cape jasmine follows below.)

The item I have tried from Freeplus is Comfortable Lotion 1, which is a toner for combination and oily skin. It is colorless and has a near-water consistency which is very mildly emollient. It is one of the most calming and soothing toners I have used ever since I started using skincare products (along with Lancôme Tonique Douceur, Shu Uemura Refreshing Lotion (discontunued), and AYURA Balancing Primer AF1 (also discontinued)).

One thing worth mentioning is that the fragrance in the herbal extracts mentioned above seems to have been removed during the manufacturing process, as the toner doesn’t have any scent. This is good for people with sensitive skin, as fragrance (artificial or natural, such as that in fragrant plant oils like lavender oil) can be a possible skin irritant. (According to Paula Begoun, gardenia florida extract can be an antioxidant but its fragrant component can be irritating for some. Based on the (lack of) perceivable scent, it seems to me that most of the fragrant components in the plant extracts in the products have been removed.)

The Comfortable Loiton 1 is now called Barrier Repair Lotion 1 and the packaging differs very slightly. I have not tried this, but I believe it should be virtually the same product. The main traits and the plant extracts used remain the same.

For the past few years, in terms of skincare, I try to use what is available here in the UK. (It is much easier to keep everything in stock. Plus I get to earn Boots points.) But when I go to Japan next time, I think I will definitely pick up Barrier Lotion 1 and perhaps some other Freeplus products.

Updated on July 14th, 2008:

You can read a review of Freeplus’ loose powder on Autumn Masquerade.

Updated on November 16th, 2011:

Information on Freeplus’ skincare renewal.

Recent Beauty Focus Posts:

Elégance

Sony Vecua

Sonia Rykiel

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Beauty Bloggers’ Summer Must-Haves

by PJ on Thursday, June 12, 2008

in bodycare, makeup, nail color/care, skincare

Teri from Beautiful Makeup Search is featuring three must-have summer products of 15 beauty bloggers plus her own picks.

Please head over and have a look!

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My Current Staple: Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash

by PJ on Wednesday, June 4, 2008

in -Simple, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Simple Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash)

In my post on RMK’s Cleansing Oil N, I mentioned that I used a face wash after the cleansing oil. In the last few years, I have used (foaming) face washes from Chanel, Lancôme, L’Oréal, Nivea, and Johnson’s. After the Johnson’s one was discontinued (at least here in the UK) last year, I went through a mini-hunt for my next staple face wash.

(One of my favorite face washes is Lancôme’s Gel Clarté. But, it costs 17.5 GBP (for 125ml) and lasts about 5 weeks for me, so I’d rather go for a cheaper alternative, which is not impossible to find.)

Among the several face washes I picked up, two were from Simple, which is a UK drugstore skincare brand available in major chains like Boots and Superdrug. (It doesn’t seem to be available outside the UK, but I might be wrong.) I had never tried their products before, but the Moisturising Foaming Facial Wash (2.79 GBP for 150ml) impressed me.

It is a straightforward and gimmick-free face wash that gets the job done, and it happens to be fragrance-free and colourant-free. It has a fluidy gel consistency and it foams and rinses very well. (The main cleansing agents in this product are, as in the order on the ingredient list, sodium laureth sulfate, decyl glucoside, and cocamidopropyl betaine.)

What I like the most about this face wash is that, after I rinse it off, I simply feel nothing. No tightness, filminess, or slipperiness. The face feels well-cleansed, fresh, and not stripped. (I much prefer this to the other Simple’s face wash I tried, Refreshing Facial Wash Gel, which feels a little filmy after rinsing.)

This is very suitable for my oily-dry skin, and I have been using it both in the morning and the evening (after the cleansing oil if I wear makeup for the day). (When I use it after the cleansing oil, I only use 1/3 of the amount I use in the morning.) I think this face wash will suit people with most skin types (apart from those with very dry skin).

My other current daily skincare products:

Lancôme Tonique Douceur

Olay Daily Illuminating UV Fluid SPF 15

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Product Review – Johnson’s Baby Lightoil Spray & Eye Makeup Remover

by PJ on Saturday, May 10, 2008

in bodycare, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning

(Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Make-up Remover)

Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Makeup Remover

Most of the time, I use a cleansing oil to remove my makeup all at once, including waterproof mascara. (I am currently using RMK’s Cleansing Oil N.) But when I play with my eyeshadows and don’t have a full face of makeup, I use an eye makeup remover before the usual face wash.

I almost always use bi-phase eye makeup removers. I’ve had good experiences with them as I like their efficiency and gentleness. Johnson’s 3-in-1 Eye Makeup Remover is no exception. It removes waterproof mascara efficiently and thoroughly. (I tested it with Maybelline’s Volum’ Express Waterproof.)

I also like how this makeup remover is dispensed. The hole is small enough and I can gently squeeze the bottle to dispense exactly the amount I want. Also, I personally don’t feel that this product leaves the skin dry or greasy, which is a plus. Overall I think this is a very effective and user-friendly cleansing product.

(John’s Baby Lightoil Spray)

Johnson’s Baby Lightoil Spray

I think most of you have tried or tested the original John’s Baby Oil. I have used it as a body moisturizer and even as a makeup removing oil. (I simply used it as a tissue-off cleansing oil and followed with a face-wash.)

If you like the simple and skin-friendly formulation of the original Baby Oil but think the texture is too greasy, then the Lightoil Spray is worth considering. Unlike the original formula, it actually does not contain mineral oil. Its main ingredients are water, glycerine, and polysorbates (fatty acids used as emollients). The watery texture is indeed substantially lighter, and it absorbs well and moisturizes the skin effectively. (The two products have the same scent.)

It comes with a spray nozzle, but it can be a little slippery to use. I usually remove it and pour the oil in my hand during application.

Even though the texture is a lot lighter than the original Baby Oil, I would still say a little goes a long way. An overzealous application will still leave a little shine on the skin that some people might not like. I would recommend this to people with dry (but not very dry) skin who are not sensitive to fragrance.

Can’t Live Without – Dove Body Silk
(my favorite body moisturizer)

E45 Endless Moisture Bodycare Range
(featuring two body moisturizers)

Prescriptives Better Off Fast Acting Waterproof Makeup Remover
(another bi-phase eye makeup remover)

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Japanese Brand Focus: Sony Vecua

by PJ on Thursday, May 8, 2008

in _Japanese Brand Profile, -Sony, -Vecua, all about Japanese cosmetics, makeup, skincare

(Vecua’s spring 2008 makeup collection)
(image from www.vecua.com)

Many of you familiar with Japanese cosmetics know that Sony Group plays a part in the Asian beauty stage. Very briefly, Sony co-owns* StylingLife Holdings, which owns six companies. Currently, among them, B&C Laboratories is the one that carries Makemania (where we get the Curvy Lip Silicone from) and Vecua, which is what I am talking about today. (StylingLife Holdings also owns CP Cosmetics**, which I will talk about in another post.)

Vecua is the most developed brand under B&C Laboratories. It features several skincare lines catering to different needs, a base and color makeup line, a bodycare line, and a selection of dietary supplements. (It is one of the two high-end brands under B&C, beside the skincare line Restgenol.)

(Vecua Smooth, a new skincare line for oily skin,
launched on May 1)
(image from www.vecua.com)

Vecua’s brand image is refined and clean-cut, and the product packaging, almost always featuring gentle curves, is simple but not plain. Its pricepoint is somewhat similar to Lunasol’s, which means it is above Coffret D’Or’s and Sofina Aube’s but below SUQQU‘s and CHICCA‘s.

Vecua’s main focus is on skincare, but the recent spring 2008 makeup collection (seen above) did catch my eye. The new white cases look a lot more refreshing than the previous slightly dated black cases. The new colors look soft and wearable.

One of the makeup products that have often been featured in Japanese beauty magazines is the Honey Luster N lip glosses (in 10 shades), and I have been interested in them for a while. From what I have read, they appear to be very lip-conditioning lip glosses.

(Vecua Honey Luster)
(image from www.vecua.com)

Apart from department stores in Japan, I’ve recently found that Vecua has two salons in the US, one in San Jose, California and the other in Honolulu, Hawaii. (Check out their website, which is available in English.) There are some customer reviews here if you are interested.

Now, when is it coming to the UK?

(The main Vecua website is only available in Japanese and on-line ordering is for Japanese residents only.)

* Sony used to own StylingLife Holdings outright, but it sold the majority of its stock in June 2006 and now co-owns StylingLife Holdings.

** In January 2006, CP Laboratories was renamed B&C Laboratories as CP Cosmetics was set up as an independently-run company. I think this is the reason why most people in Asia still habitually say products like Makemania’s Curvy Lip Silicone are “Sony CP” products, even though Makemania is now officially under B&C Laboratories.

Updated on June 18th, 2014:

There are some updates on relevant corporate information in my post on Vecua Honey Wonder Honey Honey Dew Hand Creams.

Japanese Brand Focus: Elégance

New Line! Kanebo Glamacy

Japanese cosmetics in the UK
(with notes on buying them from abroad)

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Skincare Review: Crème de la Mer

by PJ on Friday, April 25, 2008

in -Crème de la Mer, skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

After the review of the loose powder from Crème de la Mer two weeks ago, today I am reviewing three skincare products from the brand.

Crème de la Mer The Cleansing Fluid

This is basically a cleansing oil, like those from Shu Uemura, DHC, and RMK. However, I would like it more if it were simply a cleansing oil and nothing else.

This cleansing oil contains tourmaline, pearl powder, mica, and titanium dioxide, which act as mild exfoliants in this product. If you like constant exfoliation done mildly on a regular basis and want to save time, perhaps this two-in-one product, which cleanses relatively effectively, might be worth considering. (On a minor note, the texture is slightly on the thick side, somewhere close to DHC’s Deep Cleansing Oil.)

However, for me, I am not sure I would exfoliate my face when there is still makeup on. Also, after using this for the third time during one week, my face was a little red after rising off the cleansing oil. If you have sensitive skin that doesn’t handle regular exfoliation well, then this cleansing oil might not be for you.

(Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Refining Facial

This exfoliator has a dense and creamy texture. The physical exfoliating particles are fine enough not to irritate my skin. (I use extremely gentle large circular motions.)

The creamy texture is mainly down to kaolin, which is often used in deep-cleansing masks for its absorbent properties. After using it, if you find your complexion suddenly becomes much and almost unnaturally brighter, it is not because tourmaline and diamond powder have buffed off the dead skin cells. It is because you haven’t rinsed off the kaolin properly.

The white cast looks like the kind from a high-SPF sunscreen product (with physical sunscreen ingredients). I find that it is not easy to rinse it off completely, and extra care needs to be taken to make sure that it is fully removed. (I use a wet cotton pad for extra help.) I certainly don’t want clay on my skin before applying other skincare products.

Overall, I find this exfoliator satisfactory but not outstanding. Also, please note that it contains spearmint and lime extracts, which can be skin irritants.

(Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion)
(image from www.cremedelamer.com)

Crème de la Mer The Moisturizing Lotion

This is essentially a lighter version of the original Crème de la Mer Moisturizing Cream. The texture is definitely lighter, and it goes on and spreads more easily.

But this is still a very occlusive moisturizer, with petrolatum (vaseline) and shea butter high on the ingredient list. Even though it is lighter than the original cream and absorbs slightly better, it is still not suitable for people with normal-to-oily and oily skin. People with dry skin would probably find it more pleasant to use.

This product contains a small amount of niacin (niacinamide), which is vitamin B3 and has shown to increase ceramide and fatty acid levels in the skin. (Please check out the link to see niacinamide’s entry on Paula Begoun’s ingredient dictionary.) However, niacin is far down on the ingredient list and it is after lime extract, which can be a skin irritant.

(If you are interested in what niacinamide can do for your skin, several products from Olay contain niacinamide as one of the major ingredients, including Multi-Radiance Daily Illuminating UV Fluid and Complete Care Night Enriched Cream.)

10 Golden Skincare Rule

A Touch of Blusher’s Anti-Aging Series

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Skincare Review: Rodial Glamotox SPF 18 & Glamotox Night

by PJ on Friday, April 18, 2008

in skincare, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Rodial Glamotox SPF 18)
(image from www.rodial.co.uk)

Rodial is a British skincare and bodycare line sold in the UK in department stores such as Harrods, Harvey Nichols, Selfridges, and Fenwick. In the US, it is sold in Henri Bendel, Space NK, and other boutiques. Below I review two of Rodial’s moisturizers.

Rodial Glamotox SPF 18

Apart from the SPF, this moisturizer uses butyl methoxybenzoylmethane to protect the skin from harmful UVA rays. In terms of sun protection, this is an ideal daytime moisturizer to be used alone after cleansing and before makeup.

It has a rich lotion consistency but it is easy to apply. The skin feels very conditioned and moisturized.

It absorbs relatively well, although it does leave some visible shine. But it shouldn’t be a concern if you are a regular foundation wearer, and the product grabs (powder) foundation very well.

This is a suitable daytime moisturizer for people with dry or very dry skin. For me, it is a competent moisturizer for colder days in winter to help my powder foundation stay longer.

(Rodial Glamotox Night)
(image from www.rodial.co.uk)

Rodial Glamotox Night

This nighttime moisturizer comes in the form of clear oil, thanks to a variety of plant oils such as sesame seed oil, green tea seed oil, wheat germ oil, rose hip oil, soybean oil, apricot kernel oil, and sunflower seed oil. They are all considered to be good and non-irritating moisturizing agents. Green tea seed oil and rose hip oil also have anti-oxidant properties.

If you are familiar with DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil, Glamotox Night has a very similar oily texture. Because the majority of the ingredients are oils, this moisturizer has a very occlusive quality and is not ideal for people with oily skin. Just like DHC’s Olive Virgin Oil, this is best applied at the end of your nighttime skincare routine to seal in the moisture (if you happen to need something occlusive like this).

I see this as a multi-purposed product. Apart from being used on the face (for people with very dry skin), it can be used as a cuticle oil or added to a hand cream to boost up the level of emolliency. It can also moisturize very dry areas like elbows and knees.

Common traits of Rodial Glamotox SPF 18 and Glamotox Night:

– Both feature ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, a kind of Vitamin C ester, as an anti-oxidant.

– Both use orange flower oil, rosa damascena oil, and grapefruit peel oil as fragrances. Even though they are towards the end of the ingredient list, they might still be potentially irritating for some people.

– Both are paraben-free but do contain other preservatives.

Some of my skincare favorites:

RMK Cleansing Oil N

Rose & Co. Apothecary Rose Petal Salve

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream

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Voce Magazine 10th Anniversary Monthly Feature

by PJ on Thursday, April 17, 2008

in -Dior, makeup, skincare

(image from www.joseishi.net/voce)

In 2008, the popular Japanese beauty magazine, Voce, is celebrating its 10th anniversary.

From March 2008 and for 12 months, each monthly issue includes a book-in-book titled The World Beauty Heritage, featuring a prestigious western or Japanese beauty brand.

Thankfully, Voce is putting pages of this feature on the official website. Even though the texts are in Japanese, the beautiful images are definitely worth checking out. (If you do read Japanese, many featured products include links to their entries in the Voce on-line beauty product database.)

So far the brands featured are:

March 2008: Dior
April 2008: Estée Lauder
May 2008: Cosme Decorte

The webpage is updated monthly as each printed issue is published. So do go back later for more.

Japanese Beauty Magazine: Biteki

My Ultimate Cosmetics Archive

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The "Go with Your Own Glow" Campaign

by PJ on Tuesday, April 1, 2008

in skincare

(from SkinCancerFoundation via YouTube.)

Founded in 1979, The Skin Cancer Foundation is the first US organization dedicated to educating the public and medical professionals about sun safety.

They will be officially launching the Go with Your Own Glow campaign in May, and you can see the short film about the campaign above.

I am sure most of you are perfectly aware of the potential danger of unprotected sun exposure. But are there family and friends around you who still expose themselves under the sun without any protection? Are some of them still burn themselves in a sun bed? You know what you have to do…

FDA Regulates UVA Labeling

The Only Words You Need to Know about Anti-Aging

10 Golden Skincare Rules

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Skincare Review: Marie Chantal Rose Signature Line

by PJ on Friday, March 21, 2008

in skincare, skincare - cleansing/toning, skincare - moisturizing/others

(Marie Chantal Rose Lotion)

Marie Chantal is a line of essential oils and handmade skincare products. From the ingredient lists of the two items I am reviewing below, it is easy to see how they differ from many items sold in drugstores and department stores.

The two moisturizers in the Rose Signature range, Rose Lotion and Rose Cream, have very simple ingredient lists which do not feature a staggering number of ingredients. (You can check the Marie Chantal website for product ingredient lists.) Generally, for people with sensitive skin, the fewer the ingredients in a skincare product, the better. The fact that they are alcohol-free is also a huge plus for people with sensitive or very dry skin.

(Marie Chantal Rose Cream)

They are also free from parabens and other preservatives, and, according to the website, contain many organic ingredients.

The Rose Lotion has a rich lotion consistency, while the Rose Cream has a very rich texture. Both spread easily and have a gorgeous rose scent.

However, for me personally, even though they absorb relatively well, they didn’t quench my face effectively enough. I suspect that the reason is that both of them have plenty of occlusive moisturizing ingredients like shea butter and rosehip seed oil (which seal in the moisture) while the humectant moisturizing ingredient, glycerin (which can absorb moisture from the air), is further down the list. In many cases, such moisturizers leave my skin supple to the touch but I can feel the dryness and tightness underneath. (There is not enough moisture for the occlusive ingredients to seal in, even after I cleanse and tone my face.)

The kinds of moisturizers that suit me better have a little more humecants than occlusives. (I have oily-dry skin.) Whenever I come across a predominantly occlusive moisturizer, I use it as what I call a “top-up” moisturizer. It means I use it very sparingly on top of my usual moisturizer when the weather is particularly cold and dry and only on the cheeks where more emollients are needed. These two moisturizers work better for me this way, and the fact that they have very simple ingredient lists means I am not loading too many extra ingredients onto my sensitive skin.

Overall, the Rose Lotion and Rose Cream by Marie Chantal have many objective assets, but, just like any other moisturizer, the combination of various types of moisturizing ingredients might not suit all people.

(If you are wondering what ingredients are classified as occlusives/humectants, one article worth checking out is 15 Minute Beauty Fanatic’s post on moisturizer basics.)

Lancôme Tonique Douceur
(my favorite toner at the moment)

Olay Complete Care Night Enriched Cream
(light but very moisturizing)

10 Golden Skincare Rules
(Let’s all try to stick to them.)

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